Traveling to Kanha National Park

Kanha National Park, Madhya Pradesh (MP) in India 

Invariably the discussion points to the road and the roads in general. "Corruption," my friend says. "Yeah, nothing new about it. He continues. "The khuds (ditches) jerk our innards as we proceed at turtle's pace. My friend who owns a resort at Kanha turns and twists the beleaguered steering of his expensive car.  I can see the grimace on his countenance as he desperately avoids injury to his precious vehicle. His face and belly muscles twitch and twist around vigorously. 

"You are lucky that there is no swelling or cramping of your muscles" I speak pathetically. "I have been driving on these roads for ages," he says and does not bother to offer further explanation.    

The road from Jabalpur to Kanha goes through one of the most scenic highways. The teak forests beside the road loom large and create a picturesque landscape. Once home to tigers and leopards, they are devoid of life now.  With few good patches, the ride continues to be bumpy and at times becomes dangerous on steep climbs.

After a drive of more than two hours, we reach Mandla Town which is about 96 km from Jabalpur. Like a majority of townships in India, this one too is populated with a maddening crowd and embedded in chaos and confusion. The sounds and smells are the same as that of any other sleepy habitation. This town is the HQ of Kanha National Park and houses the Chief Conservator or Field Director of the park. Mandla is a district of MP, and the township has many Government administrative offices.   

We do not stop here, rather we cross over the bridge over the Narmada River and halt for a cup of tea. This part of the river yields the finest freshwater fish not available anywhere near Jabalpur. A short drive from Maharajpur the road bifurcates. On the right, it is the Raipur Highway and on the left, it is the way to Nainpur. We turn left and negotiate the narrow gauge railway crossing. This one is unmanned and dangerous.

As we proceed towards Bahmni Banjar, a small township, the greenery gives way to human habitations, small hamlets, green fields, ubiquitous petrol pumps, tire wallahs, small retail shops, and dhabas (roadside eateries). Chai wallahs and Paan Shop abound.  For the resorts in Kanha, this is the supply point for groceries, sweets, and eatables. From here onwards, for a considerable distance, there is no township with modern facilities. I buy some medicines here and we proceed.

Large stretches of empty land greet us as we turn further left toward the Indri Village. After Indri, we cross over many fields and overgrown villages but what we like best to see are the quaint little hamlets of the tribal. Cows cross over the road at will making it difficult to maneuver the ditches. Soon human habitations give way to small patches of forest, the remainder of the extensive ecosystem this tiger reserve was in the earlier times. The forests classified as Kanha buffer are dotted with small tribal hamlets and some larger places which are markets for the remote populations. The landscape once again becomes picturesque but the road remains dotted with potholes.       

In the seventies, this road was almost deserted and we could start looking for wild animals. But this is no more, we hardly see any life in the forests. Anyway, it feels good to drive through the verdant greenery. We cross two river systems before we reach Mocha. These are the Ghanghar Nalla and the Banjar River. The Banjar Valley along with the Halon valley received early protection during British Rule in India. 

Mocha Village is the epicenter of resorts in this National Park. A large number of luxury hotel accommodation in Kanha are established here. The accommodations here are big with as many as twenty-five rooms. Mocha has a bustling market with the availability of daily needs, grocery, and consumer durables. 

We turn left some distance before Mocha and proceed towards the Patpara Village. This is the road to Baihar Township, and from here on one can proceed to Raipur Capital of the State of Chhattisgarh.  After crossing over the tortured inundated patch of Banjar River once again we reach the Patpara Village where my friend's boutique resort is situated.               

The three hours drive on a good road takes more than four and a half hours and a lot of torture. Thanks to "Corruption!"   

For us, this has become a  routine. For reaching the magical wilderness and tiger heaven we will bear all.

Kanha Fact File

Kanha is about 165 km from Jabalpur. Jabalpur Airport is connected with New Delhi & Mumbai. Jabalpur is well connected with major towns by rail. 

Wildlife: Tiger, Leopard, Wild Dog, Bison, Sloth Bear, Sambar Deer, Swamp Deer, Spotted Deer, Barking Deer, Wild Boar, Sloth Bear, Four Horned Deer, Mouse Deer,  Wolf, Jackal, Fox, Hare, Civet, Jungle Cat and more. The Tiger Reserve has more than two hundred and fifty bird species.    

         

Images by Sweety Sharma

These are some of the spectacular images of Jabalpur by Sweety Lucky Sharma.

Dhuandhar Falls

DhuandharFallsJabalpur

GorgeatRiverNarmada

Narmada River

Sunset at Narmada

SweetyLuckySharma

Sweety Lucky Sharma is a budding photographer based in Jabalpur. This young lass has come out with some spectacular images of Beraghat. With time to come more work is going from her dedication and love for her work. 

Rail to Apdu Ahmedabad

I wheel my bag into the 3 AC Coach of Somnath Express that plies between Jabalpur to Somnath via Ahmadabad. My PNR status is waiting list number one. This makes me very optimistic about getting a berth. I ask the TC about the possibility.

"Full hai Saheb! Bhool Jao berth" he says nonchalantly. "I will be a stowaway," I inform the TC rather apprehensively. You are not allowed to board the Indian trains if your status is on a waitlist. You have to get on the general coach which is nothing less than corporal punishment and if there is a riot you are possibly dead.

I enter the coach and find myself lucky to get a seat in the first compartment. The couple looks at me hesitantly but tends to ignore me since it is daytime. " I do not have a confirmed status but will vacate your berth when you wish to sleep," I say apologetically. They do not reply but just shake their head to express some discomfort. I feel like a pariah. This makes me realize how much difference a placement on a piece of paper can make. One step down and you are unsecured - this applies to life in real as well.          

I sit with a book in my hand, my legs stretched wide, oblivious of the surroundings. A traveler with a confirmed status to be. He! He!

Be it AC Coach or Sleeper Coach the chaos continues throughout the journey - day or overnight. Indians are restless travelers and utmost loud. From one compartment to another; to the toilet - to and fro - the settlement is never there, it is either relative adjusting the seats or friends trying to group together.  More time is spent on the passage than on the berth. For those who are taking me as chauvinistic better experience firsthand.     

The train has a large number of Gujarati travelers mostly holidaymakers who have visited Pachmarhi, Kanha, and Bandhavgarh in MP. Like loads of baggage, one another aspect is common among the Gujjus - it spells "Chavana". Chevada as it is called in Hindi is an assortment of many mouthwatering fried snacks. Gathia, Fafda, Sev, Puri, Sing Dana (Roasted Peanuts), etc. These are accompanied by Dhebra a super duper delicious Gujerati spiced bread. Whether upscale, midscale, or a bit lower this accompaniment is ubiquitous. These are one of the tastiest regional titbits and those with screwed noses will never ever experience these desi delicacies. The nutritive value is zero but that is compensated by fantastic taste. The sight and savor is an excellent cure for those suffering from dehydrated oral cavities, larynx, pharynx, and loss of appetite.       

Food among all train travelers in India is a typical extension of the journey. The gastronomic apparatus is always at work, be it chavana, peanuts, chips, aloo bondas; masala chanas, samosas, idlis, dosas, or bhel sold at the stations big and small. Lunch and Dinner are a big affair with all possible servings packed meticulously and served with gusto on paper plates. This is followed by more snacks, sweets, curd, and lassi (sweetened curd thoroughly whisked) on the stations that the train halts next and after. The mouth keeps churning throughout Chomp! Chomp! & Chomp! The coach smells of nothing but an admixture of various spices and so does the toilets - perhaps the messiest and the smelliest in the World. Well so to speak. 

"Do not even bother to show your ticket, the RAC is yet to be cleared," the TC informs me with regret. I look at the corner near the smelly toilet my recourse to be and curse my Karmas. In India, you survive if you can extract things with a bent finger and that is what I did. I ignored the TC and paid the attendant for sleep on his berth. (This is a regular affair so please do not raise eyebrows.) 

Ahmadabad Railway Station is one of the most chaotic, both inside and outside. I board an auto rickshaw and head for my nephew's flat. The old Ahmadabad appears to be depressing, messy, conservative, and scary -  like any other city in India. The auto struggles forward through the traffic with acrobatic grace executed by the experienced driver. And yes the traffic too can be described as chaotic.

The New Ahmadabad is more organized and gives a refreshing feel before the morning rush. It is one of the finest changing urban landscapes in India. As the auto surges ahead I try to figure out the way by seeking landmarks that made me reach from one place to another on my earlier visit. I give up.    

The community is tightly knit in this mega agglomeration of Gujarat. In this state, day means money, and evening means snacking or light dinner. For many, a late night is for heavy dining or consuming the preferred snacks. Contrary to popular belief, Ahmadabad is a gastronomic paradise almost on par with other metros of India. 

Though primarily vegetarian Gujarati food is the most varied and the tastiest in the World. Paradoxically average diet of many families at best can be described as light. Khichdi is the most common element of dinner at home. It is easily digestible and highly nutritious. But the Punjabi food joints rule the roost in Ahmadabad. Most of the Punjabi restaurant owners are long-back migrants and speak chaste Gujarati.                        

Two aspects that dominate culture in Ahmadabad are the Garba Dance and Marriages. The latter is one of the most important happenings...and swanky marriages invite gatecrashes. This is due to the amazing servings of ethnic and exotic foods. The classic ethnic decor and dazzling Gujerati garbs are a sheer delight to watch.

In gatherings, you will realize most of the old-generation Gujerati men lack attractive physical attributes. But the kids are getting smarter and smarter. The women are most gracefully endowed with a dazzling countenance, lightly sculptured bodies, and a demeanor that spells class. Many chics are ultra-modern hence do not fail to try your luck!       

My roots lie in Gujerat in Ahmadabad and date back perhaps a hundred years. I am not conversant with fluent Gujarati nor aligned with the fragile social fabric that is typical to this town. Coming from a cosmopolitan agglomeration I feel a bit ill at ease. I make myself comfortable in a corner with a plastic bottle filled with uh! Uh!. It is ironic that in a state that follows the principle of the Mahatma so zealously, liquor is available for asking. Concerning this very aspect in mind, I had an argument with some intellectuals as to why Gujarat is a dry state? "Liquor flows in every corner with liquified easy, all you need is a mobile number," I said. 

"It is because of prohibition that the state is so peaceful," they remarked. Well, this argument is hard to digest since I have met many people in restaurants and pan shops in a state of inebriation. The labor class consumes local brew almost every day and moves around freely.  

Personally, I believe the people of Gujarat are less prone to violence and crime. The Mahatma effect I am sure and economic stability. But unfortunately because of prohibition alcohol consumption has become a fashion as well a craze among the youth. A phenomenal amount of money must be paid by the liquor mafia to those concerned with prevention.   

Well, the marriage is well organized and I meet many of my family members and relatives. It is a terse "khemcho" most of the time and a wee bit of conversation with some.

The Gujaratis are talkative lot, polite and friendly. Full of enthusiasm when it comes to making money, eating, and traveling. The civic sense is worth emulating except the traffic sense which paradoxically the less talked about the better. If you are seeking a safe place for your daughter's education do not hesitate.  The metro has some of the finest education institutes in India.  

The characteristic Ahmadabad landscape is a mix of skyscrapers, small houses, restaurants, boutiques, colonies, shopping arcades, malls, parking, and swanky roads. The lower story contains pan shops, tea stalls, and handcarts selling a plethora of goods. The handcarts and small shops sell pakoras, bhajiyas, bhel, sandwich, dabeli, Chinese, and whatnot. Without these the landscape would be incomplete, these elements are quintessential Ahmadabadi. I never forget to savor these magical morsels besides Waghbakri Tea which is the hallmark of the city brand now going International.       

Leaving some premium markets most of the roads are littered with an amazing plethora of junk, garbage, holy cows, and stray dogs foraging between dog shit and cow dung.      

Nevertheless, there are beautiful green residential areas that exhibit architectural marvels. One great characteristic hallmark of the citizens is less snobbery. You will find a millionaire sitting with a middle-class friend sipping tea at a roadside joint. The rich will not hesitate to savor delicacies in small roadside joints. Though the finest cafes and upscale eateries abound here.  The new government is doing a marvelous job and things are changing for the better.

Those expecting sightseeing in this metro city will be disappointed for it is very little on the anvil. The walled city is a unique feature of this town which I do not really find interesting. There are a number of them and are called poles. The poles contain a series of houses enclosed by a large wall and a gate which sort of acted as fortifications during invasions by Moghuls.   

Ahmedabad is a great place if you like urban entertainment, and seek business prospects and all things related to urbanity. 

It is time to leave after an enjoyable trip. I check my Railway Pnr Status it shows a wait list as usual. Well, better luck this time perhaps. By the time I reach the railway station my nephew informs me of the berth number and coach. Bingo! The happy journey ahead.