Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve a Veritable Paradise

Quaint and sublime, the forests of Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve are a veritable paradise on Earth. Hidden deep inside in remote access of Central India - the park is an amazing biodiversity hub.

Known more for its tigers, one can experience India's enchanting wilderness at best here. Every year thousands of overseas and local visitors arrive here for a tiger safari.

The scattered ruins enhance the esoteric charm of Bandhavgarh suggesting history that dates back 2000 years. A game round takes you way back into a turbulent past of Maharajahs amidst teeming wildlife.

The diverse flora changes landscapes with startling fervor as you move into the bush country, dense forests, and rolling grasslands. The marshy landscape accord immense beauty and it is here that you can see the tiger in the wild.

Known for Sal (Shorea robusta) trees and the moist deciduous types abound along with mixed canopy. Though the reserve encompasses a large area of about eleven hundred km the tourism zone is restricted to four hundred plus km. This is a big enough window to peek into the magnificent wilderness.

Deer, bison, leopard, sloth bear, and wild dogs share the kingdom of magnificent tigers. Birds abound and are a treat to watch as they emerge from the dense canopy in resplendent attire. Bandhavgarh is a bird-watching hot spot in India sadly neglected and suppressed by the enigma of big cats. More than two hundred species can be sighted albeit in different seasons. Migrants arrive in winter and depart before the summer peaks.

The visitor profile changes with the seasons, and nature lovers and holidaymakers arrive in the winter and festive seasons. Wildlife photographers prefer extensive sunlight in the summer months despite the heat. The park is busy throughout but holidays and weekends should be avoided.

The fort is in ruins now, and out of bounds for the visitors but one must drive up to Sesh Shaiyya on the way. This is an enigmatic statue of Lord Visnu carved out of a twenty feet long igneous rock. The ensemble or ruins consisting of temples, stables, caves, and zoo-morphic idols enchant the visitors on a jeep safari.

The reserve is a National Park and a conservation unit, declared a protected area for saving the tiger from the brink of extinction. The efforts have been successful despite many hurdles. You can see the transformation yourself on safaris. Tigers and other mammals are sighted with a greater degree of frequency.

A set of rules apply for tourists which one must follow. A limited number of jeeps are allowed to enter the tourist zones every day. Hence you must book the entry in advance.

Located in the Umaria District of Madhya Pradesh, the connectivity for easy access is excellent. The nearest airport and rail hub is Jabalpur City. The drive from Jabalpur is about 175 km.

At this amazing Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve, luxury hotels abound for accommodation. The tourism infrastructure is proper and a good degree of comfort prevails making the destination tourist-friendly. If you are planning a holiday in India do experience the exotic wilderness at its best

here.

Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve

Tadoba Gate

Situated on the banks of the Andhari River the sylvan retreat is a spectacular tiger landscape. Tigers in this wilderness roam free amidst the verdant forests hills and valleys. Tadoba is named after tribal Taru whom the residents still venerate. He was a chieftain who was killed in an encounter with a tiger. A shrine is dedicated to him in the verdant confines of the forest under a large tree near Tadoba Lake.       

Map of Tadoba 

Jeep Safari

The rich biodiversity region is situated in the Indian State of Maharashtra near Chandrapur. Chandrapur is at a distance of approximately one hundred forty kilometers from Nagpur City. The reserve is an amalgamation of Tadoba National Park and Andhari River Wildlife Sanctuary. It is now under the aegis of Project Tiger Program and hence is known as tiger reserve.  

Tiger

The predominately Southern Tropical Dry Deciduous Forests contain diverse flora and fauna. The diversity is incredible in this cradle of  Chimur Hills, Kolsa, and Moharli Ranges. The wide expanse of forests is contained by the Lake which divides the dense canopy from the region containing farmlands and human habitation. The lake is a birder's dream come true with a wide assemblage of shore and wetland birds. The colorful avian is a delight to one's eye, and the melange of colors that they are adorned with is simply striking. Marsh crocodiles make their last stand here after facing persecution all over Maharashtra.      

A safari in the forests of Tadoba is an exciting proposition, especially for wildlife enthusiasts on a holiday. Wildlife at its best can be seen frolicking on the dusty jungle pathways that intersect the forests. Nilgai, sambar,  chital, and barking deer. An exciting encounter with a tiger is what all holidaymakers yearn for, but no less of a thrill is the sight of a slot bear ambling around or a wild dog packing on a hunt. 

Among the other carnivores that inhabit these forests are the leopards one of the World's most enigmatic creatures.  Together the leopard and the tiger constitute a thrilling find on the safari but the jungles of Tadoba have much more to offer. A holistic experience is what enlightened tourists yearn for and I believe the reserve is spectacular.      

For tourism purposes, the park is divided into many zones with dedicated entry gates. Booking a permit in advance is much advisable. This can be done from the office of the DFO at Chandrapur or at the respective entry gates.    

Most of the hotels and resorts are situated around the entry gates. They offer a wide variety of amenities in the remote jungle. You can avail of accommodation in a budget resort or a five-star hotel depending upon the choice and your pocket. Accommodation is also available at State-run MTDC and guest houses belonging to various departments.    

Tourism is controlled in Tadoba Tiger Reserve in India and limited entry is available. For making a holiday here advance planning is a must. In order to reach the preserve one has to arrive at Nagpur and then drive to Chandrapur or the respective gates.  

Destination Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve

Esoteric Abode of  Vibrant Life Amid Serenity 

Reclining Visnu - Sesh Shaiyya

From unknown to worldwide popularity has been the saga of this verdant paradise on Earth. Bandhavgarh National Park was the erstwhile kingdom of Maharajahs of Rewa. Successive dynasties have ruled this forest kingdom. The ruins are witness to this historic upheaval of centuries of conquests. Temples, forts in ruins, stables, idols, and manmade caves are creations of the warring dynasties.    

Leopard

Conquerors made their marks before being vanquished by the victors, but the forest lay unperturbed by the turbulence in its premises. The ecosystem is nurtured and protected, the wilderness ruled by the tiger. No more a fiefdom of the usurpers, the destination is home to an impressive biodiversity. People of all walks of life from near and far arrive here to witness the exuberant growth of its flora and the enchanting fauna. 

Tiger

Bandhavgarh first came to light whence the white tiger was discovered nearby. Since then this esoteric recessive gene has not been discovered in the wilds of tiger lands.             

Declared a protected area, a park is a conservation unit that nurtures critically endangered animals. Tiger rules supreme as a tertiary carnivore accompanied by the leopard and the wild dog.

Other carnivores found are the jackal, fox, hyena, and wolf. The last two I have not seen for many years and they are probably on verge of extinction. Deer and antelope form the prey base while numerous life forms complete the web of life to form an ecosystem with niche habitats.    

Tiger

Park is home to more impressive avian species albeit few birders arrive here to watch them. The major share of popularity has been taken over by the big cats. After the films by NGC and BBC, paradise gained wide publicity and witnessed a sudden surge of tourists from all over. 

Peacock

Situated at the edge of the reserve at Tala Village the Kothi of Maharani is reminiscent of a lonely past. Protected as a hunting preserve, the Maharajahs of Rewa were avid hunters and conservationists as well. The hunting privilege was accorded to a few dignitaries and the woods were well protected. 

The Kothi along with the scattered ruins are now frozen in time. In the early days of tourism post-independence, a rest house at Tala provided accommodation to the few who visited this preserve. Then the White Tiger Lodge was established followed by a plethora of lodges once tourism mushroomed in this remote quarter of Central India.  

Crested Serpent Eagle

Bandhavgarh National Park now a tiger reserve is regarded as a major conservation center. Tourism flourishes alongside to extol the nature’s bounty and the saga of preservation.   

Brown Fish Owl

The ideal access point is Jabalpur City in MP. Connectivity by air and overnight rail is preferred while local arrivals drive from the satellite towns like Khajuraho, Katni, and Satna.  Accommodation can be availed at luxury hotels in Bandhavgarh near the main Tala Gate. 

Albeit wildlife can be experienced throughout the open season, overseas travelers prefer the winter season. Wildlife photographers prefer the extensive sunlight of the scorching summer. Park is closed during the monsoon from July to September.      

When planning a tiger safari fetch along books on birds, binoculars, cloth as per the seasons, and personal necessities. 

Image Courtesy Kamaljeet Hora

Destination Bandhavgarh - A Wildlife Lover's Delight

Tucked away in remote access of Central India Bandhavgarh is the land of the tiger. Things do not end here the destination offers some of the most ancient and exotic architecture amidst the overgrown wilderness. Dating as far as 2000 years back numerous artifacts and structures are lying untended all over the place.  

Fort Entrance

The fort built by the Gond Rulers is called Bandhavgarh hence the name of the park. The idols and structures are an archeologist's delight albeit the fort is no more only scattered remains exist. There is an ancient Ram Janki Temple facing the park.  

The gate a looming arch is suggestive of a large encampment that must have been manned by a retinue of sentinels always at war with the invaders. The zoomorphic idols of Lord Vishnu are a treat to discover. Made of igneous rock they depict Vishnu in form of animals    

Temple at Fort Complex

The remote location and inaccessible terrain must have acted as a hideaway for the numerous dynasties that came to rule over its dizzy heights. A mile below the campus is Shesh Shaiyya a reclining idol of Lord Vishnu beside a fairy pool surrounded by verdant greenery in betwixt the dense forests on the slopes. The Charanganga originates from the mountains and drops down to the plains. It creates slushy meadows as it meanders between the low-lying hills covered with dense vegetation. This is the land of the tiger and leopard the big cats that roam Central India. The climb to reclining Vishnu is steep and needs experts to drive up. The erstwhile Maharajahs of Rewa Estate nearby were regular visitors to the Fort. Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve was the shikargah of their domain and hence received a lot of protection.       

Ram Janki Temple

The hunting preserve was declared a protected area in the year nineteen sixty-eight. It was given the status of a National Park and eventually brought under the aegis of Project Tiger.       

Bison were relocated from Kanha National Park after the original stock had died down due to disease.   Other animals to be seen here are the dhole, leopard, sloth bear, nilgai, sambar, spotted deer, barking deer, and four-horned deer.  Wild boar, peacock, and langur are a common sight among many avian species.

Sesh Shaiyya

ManMade Reservoir

Male Tiger

Tiger

There are more than two hundred fifty bird species to be found in the tiger reserve. Reptiles are nocturnal but on rare occasions, a python could be seen. Other nocturnal animals and the less seen ones are ruddy mongooses, small Indian civets, pangolins, toddy cats, and ratel to name a few. 

The park is open from  October 16 to June 30th every year. Most tourists prefer winter months for tiger safari. But a lot of holiday crowd arrives during summer whence tiger visibility increases slightly. 

Tiger in Water

The preserve is located in Umaria District about four hours' drive from Jabalpur Airport and Railhead. Road connectivity exists in many nearby towns.

Tourism is well organized in the park. For accommodation, there are many wildlife resorts in Bandhavgarh which are economic. There are many luxury hotels that are expensive but preferable. A couple five stars and three hotels also provide accommodation to the upmarket crowd.   Government accommodations are few and reserved only for state employees and VIPs.

Khajuraho can be reached from here which is about eight hour drive by road. About 45 km from Khajuraho is the Panna Tiger Reserve another tiger heaven.
 

Traveling to Kanha National Park

Kanha National Park, Madhya Pradesh (MP) in India 

Invariably the discussion points to the road and the roads in general. "Corruption," my friend says. "Yeah, nothing new about it. He continues. "The khuds (ditches) jerk our innards as we proceed at turtle's pace. My friend who owns a resort at Kanha turns and twists the beleaguered steering of his expensive car.  I can see the grimace on his countenance as he desperately avoids injury to his precious vehicle. His face and belly muscles twitch and twist around vigorously. 

"You are lucky that there is no swelling or cramping of your muscles" I speak pathetically. "I have been driving on these roads for ages," he says and does not bother to offer further explanation.    

The road from Jabalpur to Kanha goes through one of the most scenic highways. The teak forests beside the road loom large and create a picturesque landscape. Once home to tigers and leopards, they are devoid of life now.  With few good patches, the ride continues to be bumpy and at times becomes dangerous on steep climbs.

After a drive of more than two hours, we reach Mandla Town which is about 96 km from Jabalpur. Like a majority of townships in India, this one too is populated with a maddening crowd and embedded in chaos and confusion. The sounds and smells are the same as that of any other sleepy habitation. This town is the HQ of Kanha National Park and houses the Chief Conservator or Field Director of the park. Mandla is a district of MP, and the township has many Government administrative offices.   

We do not stop here, rather we cross over the bridge over the Narmada River and halt for a cup of tea. This part of the river yields the finest freshwater fish not available anywhere near Jabalpur. A short drive from Maharajpur the road bifurcates. On the right, it is the Raipur Highway and on the left, it is the way to Nainpur. We turn left and negotiate the narrow gauge railway crossing. This one is unmanned and dangerous.

As we proceed towards Bahmni Banjar, a small township, the greenery gives way to human habitations, small hamlets, green fields, ubiquitous petrol pumps, tire wallahs, small retail shops, and dhabas (roadside eateries). Chai wallahs and Paan Shop abound.  For the resorts in Kanha, this is the supply point for groceries, sweets, and eatables. From here onwards, for a considerable distance, there is no township with modern facilities. I buy some medicines here and we proceed.

Large stretches of empty land greet us as we turn further left toward the Indri Village. After Indri, we cross over many fields and overgrown villages but what we like best to see are the quaint little hamlets of the tribal. Cows cross over the road at will making it difficult to maneuver the ditches. Soon human habitations give way to small patches of forest, the remainder of the extensive ecosystem this tiger reserve was in the earlier times. The forests classified as Kanha buffer are dotted with small tribal hamlets and some larger places which are markets for the remote populations. The landscape once again becomes picturesque but the road remains dotted with potholes.       

In the seventies, this road was almost deserted and we could start looking for wild animals. But this is no more, we hardly see any life in the forests. Anyway, it feels good to drive through the verdant greenery. We cross two river systems before we reach Mocha. These are the Ghanghar Nalla and the Banjar River. The Banjar Valley along with the Halon valley received early protection during British Rule in India. 

Mocha Village is the epicenter of resorts in this National Park. A large number of luxury hotel accommodation in Kanha are established here. The accommodations here are big with as many as twenty-five rooms. Mocha has a bustling market with the availability of daily needs, grocery, and consumer durables. 

We turn left some distance before Mocha and proceed towards the Patpara Village. This is the road to Baihar Township, and from here on one can proceed to Raipur Capital of the State of Chhattisgarh.  After crossing over the tortured inundated patch of Banjar River once again we reach the Patpara Village where my friend's boutique resort is situated.               

The three hours drive on a good road takes more than four and a half hours and a lot of torture. Thanks to "Corruption!"   

For us, this has become a  routine. For reaching the magical wilderness and tiger heaven we will bear all.

Kanha Fact File

Kanha is about 165 km from Jabalpur. Jabalpur Airport is connected with New Delhi & Mumbai. Jabalpur is well connected with major towns by rail. 

Wildlife: Tiger, Leopard, Wild Dog, Bison, Sloth Bear, Sambar Deer, Swamp Deer, Spotted Deer, Barking Deer, Wild Boar, Sloth Bear, Four Horned Deer, Mouse Deer,  Wolf, Jackal, Fox, Hare, Civet, Jungle Cat and more. The Tiger Reserve has more than two hundred and fifty bird species.