Tiger Safari at Bandhavgarh And The Ancient Structures

Bandhavgarh National Park is known for its enchanting wilderness, and the tigers. But many people have no inclination toward ancient idols cut from the rock and the inscriptions on the stone in the dense confines of the park. The most amazing ancient structures are the Bandhavgarh Fort complex and the idols of Lord Vishnu in zoomorphic forms. The original structures were built by the Gonds that were subject to further additions by many dynasties that came to rule here.

Tiger Safari at Bandhavgarh

The fort and its surroundings in the dense forests were ruled by tigers and humans from time immemorial but the structures made by the Gond civilization date back 2000 years. Gonds were worshippers of lord Vishnu and other Hindu deities. On the top of the mountain, one will find idols of zoomorphic avatars of Lord Vishnu. It is said that the fort was gifted to brother Laxman by Lord Rama when he visited Bandhavgarh forests in exile.   

The other structure that was carved in stones are courts, horse stables, caves, and rooms and you will see stone wall now in ruins around Bandhavgarh Hill. There are thirty-two steep cliffs and tabletop mountains at Bandhavgarh. The terrain is characterized by steep cliffs deep glens and marshy grasslands interspersed by rivulets.

Since the fort is out of bounds for tourism tourists cannot visit the fort complex. They can go up to the Sesha Shaiyya or reclining Vishnu.  Sesh Shaiyya is a beautiful spot where you can see the twenty feet idols of Lord Vishnu in a reclining position.  The idol is crowned by the heads of the cobra and the whole structure is covered in microscopic algae, fungi, and lichens. Sesh Shaiyya is one of the most beautiful spots in the tiger reserve and must visit. Those who are wishing to see the ancient structures must go for a tiger safari at Tala in Bandhavgarh.   

Rich in the wilderness the park is home to tigers, leopards, wild dogs, sloth bears, bison, Nilgai, barking deer, four-horned deer, wild boar, and monkeys. It is home to more than 250 birds including the winter migrants.

For an exciting tiger safari at Bandhavgarh, a safari permit is required. So book the safari in advance as the entry of vehicles is limited. Safari can be booked online at MPOnline Portal. You can also ask the tour operators to book a safari for you. They are in the know-how of the best zones in the National Park for you to visit.

You can best reach Bandhavgarh from Jabalpur Airport at 175 km. The overnight train is also available from New Delhi to Umaria which is at a distance of 32 km from Tala Township. Overnight trains from Mumbai and Kolkata ply to Jabalpur in MP.          

Bandhavgarh: Down The Memory Lane on The Mountain Top

Kuttappan, Nair, Vithal, Shukla, and Thakur all names come alive when reminiscence strikes. On my first visit to Bandhavgarh National Park and a Tiger Reserve, I was hooked. "This is it!"I said to myself. Since then an nth number of visits have followed, and continue till this day. The characters named here were associates that turned the dream safaris into a reality in the tiger land.   

Whence you get the first glimpse of the mountains driving on the road to Tala from Umaria you feel like paradise is right here. It is!

Bandhavgarh is more than a tiger reserve, it is a hill resort and cradle of an ancient tribal civilization. The numerous telltale signs of ancient India, forts, caves shelters, idols, and temples all spring a surprise as you journey into the wilderness overgrown with herbs and shrubs, tall trees, and grass. 

Nevertheless, a perfect ecosystem, the mountain rivers add to the sheen and glamour of this panoramic wilderness in remote India. The drive in the undulating terrain created by geological upheaval from the day the Earth was born has created an amazing tapestry that mesmerizes at very first sight. The inaccessible heights remain as they were since the time of creation chiseled to perfection - the shapes and size - by indomitable forces of nature.   

Romance is instant, the hustle and bustle of a big town are left behind once you reach the park confines and absolute calm prevails in this amazing wilderness home of enchanting animals and birds. 

Reclining Vishnu

Whence you visit the structures in the park especially Shesh Shaiyya time comes to an absolute halt. The only living element besides you is the cool mountain breeze that brushes past you gently. The picturesque spot is a visit to witness esoteric emblems that have been seamlessly inserted into the surroundings such as to create oneness with nature. Modern architecture fails in this respect.  The grove is a blessing for the parched with aching limbs, and I lie down on the parapet of the encircling wall and fall in deep reverie. 

What do you do whence you come across the esoteric? 

You simply imbibe in absolute silence to enable your sensory apparatus to grasp and digest. Almost fairy tale atmosphere prevails at Sesh Shaiyya, the resting place of Lord Vishnu where he sleeps as a twenty feet reclining idol carved out of igneous rocks. Lying listlessly, the structure crowned with Sesh Nag (Cobra) is frozen in time awaiting resurrection perhaps. Nevertheless, fed by the mountain river Charanganga the magical lair comprises an algae-layered pond and fern-covered rocks on the mountainside. Lichens, fungi, and algae create a colorful mosaic in the surroundings like an artistic creation. The patterns on the rocks and the idol placed amidst the tropical greenery simply spellbind. The place dwells in an environment of absolute tranquility and peace. 

The only buzz of activity is the humming of the birds and bees and sometimes an occasional blood-curdling roar of the tiger. Then silence prevails...you can imagine the hoofs of horses as soldiers climb the tortuous ascent on the way to the fort at the top of the mountain. The cool ambiance of the place and water all around provided succor to tired soldiers returning from internecine wars. 

When you climb the fort, the World fades into a distance and everything appears alien till you reach the idol at the precarious edge of the mountain. The Idol looms large on the edge of the mountain weathering the winds. One look and then you realize that the World is real and ruled by celestial entities. Imagine!    

All alone, amidst the tall grass and azure blue sky above, the pathway seems to be the road to Nirvana. Be careful, tigers and leopards lurk around the bushes. My nerves rattle, and my mind is in delusion, but I keep pumping up ahead in the rising heat. I am searching for my photographer friend. And there she is a lady from the distant land of Germany.

The fort is in shambles with broken walls as evidence but the large reservoirs created more than 2000 years back still survive. So does the temple dedicated to Ram, Janki, and Laxman. The place is littered with broken structures...they are nevertheless captivating religious artifacts...Hinduism is a colorful religion and so are the paraphernalia and the rituals associated with the practice. It is all evident here at the top of Bandhavgarh Mountain on the premises of the ancient fort.

A gift to brother Laxman by Lord Ram an incarnation of Lord Vishnu, the fort is aptly named as such (Bandhav = brother, Garh = Fort). A fort for brother Laxman and true to the heavenly stature in essence the fort is very much alive. A pujari (Hindu Priest) walks for eleven kilometers through the absolute wilderness to pray in the land of the tiger. Stoic, unruffled by the big cats, snakes, and predators he has been conducting prayers ever since the erstwhile Maharajah of Rewa inducted him into the holy service. 

Zoomorphic idols of Lord Vishnu in various animal avatars are the object of extreme intrigue for the uninitiated and are not familiar with Hinduism's existential philosophy. The vast expanse of the place makes you feel tiny like a spec in the Universe. An eagle flying overhead its call ricocheting across steep cliffs creates a picture of heaven as we climb down the mountain.

*Note the fort is out of bounds now but you can drive up to reclining Vishnu. You will need a safari permit for Tala Range. Bandhavgarh is accessible by four hours drive from Jabalpur Airport in Central India or the State of Madhya Pradesh.                               

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Uday is a blogger and offers Seo + Content For Digital Marketing Services. 

He teaches digital marketing (SEO) in Jabalpur.

He freelances as a naturalist/birder at Kanha National Park. He loves to write on travel. 

He can be contacted at: 

pateluday90@hotmail.com

09755089323                 

Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve a Veritable Paradise

Quaint and sublime, the forests of Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve are a veritable paradise on Earth. Hidden deep inside in remote access of Central India - the park is an amazing biodiversity hub.

Known more for its tigers, one can experience India's enchanting wilderness at best here. Every year thousands of overseas and local visitors arrive here for a tiger safari.

The scattered ruins enhance the esoteric charm of Bandhavgarh suggesting history that dates back 2000 years. A game round takes you way back into a turbulent past of Maharajahs amidst teeming wildlife.

The diverse flora changes landscapes with startling fervor as you move into the bush country, dense forests, and rolling grasslands. The marshy landscape accord immense beauty and it is here that you can see the tiger in the wild.

Known for Sal (Shorea robusta) trees and the moist deciduous types abound along with mixed canopy. Though the reserve encompasses a large area of about eleven hundred km the tourism zone is restricted to four hundred plus km. This is a big enough window to peek into the magnificent wilderness.

Deer, bison, leopard, sloth bear, and wild dogs share the kingdom of magnificent tigers. Birds abound and are a treat to watch as they emerge from the dense canopy in resplendent attire. Bandhavgarh is a bird-watching hot spot in India sadly neglected and suppressed by the enigma of big cats. More than two hundred species can be sighted albeit in different seasons. Migrants arrive in winter and depart before the summer peaks.

The visitor profile changes with the seasons, and nature lovers and holidaymakers arrive in the winter and festive seasons. Wildlife photographers prefer extensive sunlight in the summer months despite the heat. The park is busy throughout but holidays and weekends should be avoided.

The fort is in ruins now, and out of bounds for the visitors but one must drive up to Sesh Shaiyya on the way. This is an enigmatic statue of Lord Visnu carved out of a twenty feet long igneous rock. The ensemble or ruins consisting of temples, stables, caves, and zoo-morphic idols enchant the visitors on a jeep safari.

The reserve is a National Park and a conservation unit, declared a protected area for saving the tiger from the brink of extinction. The efforts have been successful despite many hurdles. You can see the transformation yourself on safaris. Tigers and other mammals are sighted with a greater degree of frequency.

A set of rules apply for tourists which one must follow. A limited number of jeeps are allowed to enter the tourist zones every day. Hence you must book the entry in advance.

Located in the Umaria District of Madhya Pradesh, the connectivity for easy access is excellent. The nearest airport and rail hub is Jabalpur City. The drive from Jabalpur is about 175 km.

At this amazing Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve, luxury hotels abound for accommodation. The tourism infrastructure is proper and a good degree of comfort prevails making the destination tourist-friendly. If you are planning a holiday in India do experience the exotic wilderness at its best

here.

Bandhavgarh Hidden Jewel of Central India

The peaks rise startlingly from the horizon as you drive towards Tala Village, an astounding view...and more has to come. Bandhavgarh is a land of surprises and a charismatic destination. An eerie feel hangs around, and chilly air of expectation runs down your spine, and your mind is in a state of fantasy. This is tiger land, India's primal forest home to many of these magnificent animals. 

Tiger

Encapsulating diverse habitats and amazing biodiversity the tiger reserve is also a National Park.  It is managed under the aegis of Project Tiger a GOI initiative. Situated in the remote confines of Central India or the State of Madhya Pradesh the tiger land keeps its promise. Expect a safari exciting and soul-stirring as never before experienced in the hinterlands of the long-stretching Vindhyan Mountain Ranges.  

Bandhavgarh Meadow

The reserve comprises marshy grasslands, dense Sal and mixed forests, bamboo slopes, and rivers that twist and turn agonizingly all over this ecosystem eventually draining out of the park into chaotic human civilizations.  

Jeep Safari

The salient feature of this paradise is the steep cliffs covered with dense canopy scarred with scarps and protruding spurs at many places. In between the cliffs, the safari vehicles move steeply uphill and then slide tortuously downhill in between the deep glens. The drive is strenuous with bumps and jerks, and negotiating sharp bends on the incline and slippery slopes tests the driver's skill no end.  

All this makes the safari exciting especially whence you climb up the hill at literally an obtuse angle. A chance meeting with a tiger and other exciting animals like the leopard, gaur, sloth bear, and wild dog is always on cards to keep the adrenalin pumping and the heart missing a few beats.  

Bandhavgarh Mountain

From the top of the mountains, the panoramic grandeur unfolds. The landscape changes correspondingly as the angle of view changes and your gaze is mesmerized. The tree tops, marshy grasslands, and surrounding cliffs with rivulets and pathways snaking in between are a sight to wonder at from the dizzy heights.       

A tiger safari at Bandhavgarh is truly stupefying and thrilling on an open jeep. The sightings of tigers and other megafauna are very high in this little paradise and tourists flock around the open season to film and photograph these amazing creatures, some of which are endangered and nearly on the verge of extinction. 

Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve

Whence you enter the park from the Tala Gate across the meadows the steep cliff encapsulating the fort wall on the ascent and the Ram Janki Temple accords an exotic view. The distance plays around with dimensions and the ancient temple appears as a tiny speck.  

In midst of pristine forests, the telltale signs of human architecture is an esoteric experience. The stone wall stretches long for more than a mile and was used to prevent intrusion into the Gond Fort at the height of 800 MSL. This hill is named after the reserve and is the tallest.  

In the Tala Zone at Sesh Shaiyya or reclining Vishnu time stands absolutely still. After an unnerving climb up the hill, the twenty feet idol lying adjacent to an ancient pool shaded by a grove is a mesmerizing sight. The grove shelters the pool and the idol trickles like a misty curtain flowing down the walls covered with ferns and shrubs. The curtain of tiny falls literally sliding down towards the idol through eroded walls covered with a slippery carpet of moss and lichens extols the creativity of ancient tribes it enhances the age of the edifice which could be around two thousand years ago. The situation is a fairy tale setting, and cool brisk air from the grove invites slumber even in the torturous heat of the summer.   

Silence and serenity prevail transporting you back in time, a moment whence a troupe of soldiers came to rest here before climbing up to the fort. The intruding roar of the tiger awakens you from a fantasy daydream and fetches you back into the reality of the contemporary. 

The climb up to the fort passes through numerous horse shelters, courtrooms, and caves entrenched in the mountain wall. The grand stone arch after a strenuous climb is welcoming, from here you enter the fort complex. The fort itself is in ruins but the zoomorphic idols of Lord Vishnu are spectacular and well-preserved. So are the huge reservoirs meant to sustain the large entourage of soldiers and royal households.    

Langur Monkey

The large vacant spaces also contain numerous ancient architects in form of run-down structures. On one end as you climb up, the temple manned by old priests sits isolated but accords a magnificent view of the whole reserve.  

The whole park is an ecosystem that supports more than fifty tigers and they can be seen during the safari in the tourism zones. Herds of Gaur or bison and chital can be seen in the company of langur monkeys, sambar, and the peacock in the grasslands. 

Hindu Priest

The leopard is elusive but is seen often along with the sloth bear and the wild dog. Barking deer and saunders of wild boar are often encountered near the waterholes. In open areas herds of Nilgai antelope can be seen peacefully grazing in the grasslands. 

Tiger safaris are organized during the day and in the evening. Tourists can also book full-day safaris especially wildlife photographers.  

The best way to reach Bandhavgarh tiger park is via Jabalpur Airport which is a four hours drive, and also from Kanha Nationa Park which is a more five hour's drive. Overseas visitors should book the holiday through the tour operators and opt for the jungle plan which is all-inclusive.  

Bandhavgarh National Park - Ruins of The Past

Situated in the cradle of  the Vindhya Hills a chain of mountains that lie to the North of India.  The park is situated in Umaria District of Madhya Pradesh. The erstwhile hunting reserve of Maharajahs of Rewa is now a protected area. 

Apart from dense tiger forests the reserve boats of ancient ruins that date twenty centuries back in history. The ruins belong to ruling Hindu Kings who left their marks on the mountainous tract. The park is home to many animals especially the Bengal Tiger that rules the ruins and the forests. Being a core of protected area no human habitation is allowed anymore.    

The ruins are in shape of idols, statues, caves, horse shelters, temples and gates. The fort lies atop the Bandhavgarh Mountain at 800 MSL. Now in rums some elements are still intact. The unique feature of the fort in ruin is the zoo-morphic statues of Lord Vishnu. Scattered along the tableau are statues of Visnu as Varah, Matsya and Sinh avatar. The Ram Janki Temples lies on the edge of the plateau overlooking the magnificent reserve.    

Hindu Temple

On the ascent to the fort lies Sesh Shaiyya or sleeping idol of Lord Vishnu on edge of the pool. Esoteric and fairy land like the pool is man made and ancient. Ferns and small shrubs decorate the surroundings creating a cool precinct that offered succor and shelter to thirsty and exhausted soldiers of yore. 

Fort Entrance

There are ruins all over and many can be seen on tiger safari at Bandhavgarh. The wildlife is enchanting and consists of tiger, leopard, sloth bear, dhole, deer, and bison. The number of hillocks create a mesmerizing topography making the park one of the most picturesque in India. 

Fort Ruins

In order to reach the destination one needs to drive 170 km from Jabalpur airport & rail head. Other ways of reaching Bandhavgarh are by rail. An overnight train halts at Umaria station 32 km from the park. The road network is well connected. 

Tiger

There are many hotels in Bandhavgarh for accommodation near by in the buffer zone. They conform to different grades like luxury, deluxe, five star and budget. Rest houses are also available for stay but booking is accorded only to Government Officials.  

Reclining Vishnu

Prior booking of safaris are advisable as they are booked well in advance. The bookings can be made at  MP Online Portal. The hotels and resorts cane be booked using the websites.

   Images by Teerath Singh

Madan Mahal - Out Post Enchanting

It is a small fort situated in one of the highest hills (500 meters) in Jabalpur City. The fort is more of an outpost strategically placed in order to accord view of the Garha Kingdom of the Gond Dynasty. Today it stands as a silent sentinel over the city. Stripped out of its ancient glory it is a mute testimony of the valiant tribal history of Raj Gonds. The Gonds who built the fort somewhere in 10th AD where often called Rajput Gonds with lineage mixing with the Royals of Rajasthan.

The ancient temple of Godess Sharda Devi is perhaps as old. Both the temple and fort complex are built of granite the constituent of the hill. The temple is now cemented and the ancient feel is missing. The fort is placed on top of a huge boulder and contains two chambers one meant for the rulers. It is said that a tunnel lead to the large bath in the front such that the Rani could reach it  unseen.

The structure was also the pleasure palace of Madan Singh 10th Gond King. The fortress surprises you with its size, but nevertheless it was fighting fit to repel many invaders through its life time. Not at all magnificent as the Red Fort at New Delhi it brought to heels invaders from there.  

The complex is near intact including the stables but the gold is missing. There where supposed to be two gold bricks in hidden somewhere in the complex a portion that is under the shadow of the sun. Thousands have searched for the pot of treasure but none could find it yet.  

The outpost and numerous Hindu temples built by the Gonds exhibit the craftsmanship of the people of the past. But what intrigues most besides the amazing craftsmanship and masonry are the tunnels that formed an interconnected network of escape routes. However no traces have been found of the incredible feat. It is a myth or fact nobody knows.   

The spectacular view of Jabalpur City is what astounds the visitors most. The verdant hill ranges and quaint townships is suggestive of how spread out this town is. It is by all means a green city with much less pollution and congested the least The city is placed inside the cauldron of forested hill ranges perhaps frail end of the Satpuras.      

A series of steps lead to this fortress, on the way is a small reservoir built for the thirty soldiers. The structure looms large as you near the final steps and catches your eye in awe. The Gond kingdom was situated at Garha near by. 

The last ruler Rani Durgavati queen of Dalpat Shah died fighting the Mughal Asaf Khan in an unequal battle at Narrai near Jabalpur. As defeat became imminent she sacrificed her life, her son Vir Narayan also died in the battle of Narrai. Her martyrdom is celebrated in India on June 24th. 

With the death of Rani Durgavati the kingom sadly fell to the mughals followed by the Marathas and eventually the British.  

The monument is much visited by tourists and business travelers to Jabalpur. It is near to the station and can be approached using a taxi service. The city is important as trading center, education center, cantt and defense factories. It is well connected by rail with all major towns and with New Delhi and Mumbai by air. Jabalpur is the best access point for MP State Tourism in Madhya Pradesh in Central India. Wildlife Heavens    Kanha, Bandhavgarh, Satpura, Pench National Parks are visited from this city. Pachmarhi and Amarkantak hill retreats are close to JBP.