Bandhavgarh is the land of the
tiger. It is located in Umaria District in the State of Madhya Pradesh. It is a
National Park and a tiger reserve declared as a protected area by the State
Government. A part of the reserve is slated for tourism.
The reserve encompasses fifteen
hundred thirty-six kilometers. The current core area is 716 sq. km while the
rest is the outer limit or the buffer zone. Tourism is conducted in 20 percent
of the core area while some forest patches are reserved for tourism in the buffer
area.
Bandhavgarh is a paradise on the
Earth. It is home to tigers, leopards, sloth bears, bison, deer, rhesus
macaque, Hanuman Langur, jungle cats, rusty spotted cats, jackals, foxes, and
small predators. The antelope family comprises four-horned antelope and the
Nilgai.
Bandhavgarh is also a place that
comprises ancient ruins. These ruins are over two thousand years old and
comprise zoomorphic idols of Lord Vishnu, idols of Shiva, manmade caves,
temples, stables, reservoirs, and an ancient fort completely in ruins.
Over 170000 visitors arrive at
the reserve for holidaying, photography, and filming. Before finalizing the
trip to Bandhavgarh one should book a permit issued by the forest department of
Madhya Pradesh. The next step is to book a luxury hotel for accommodations.
There are also budget and deluxe hotels outside the reserve most of them are
situated near the Tala Village.
The trip usually begins from
Jabalpur Airport which is at a distance of 175 km. You can travel Jabalpur via
Shahpura and Umaria. The latter is just 32 km from the park. The road is good
and you can cover it in four hours. There are other routes to the reserve but
they are longer.
You can drive in your car or go for a taxi-booking as there are plenty available. For overseas visitors booking a taxi is
the best option. Air-conditioned taxis are available from Jabalpur. While going
for a holiday in Bandhavgarh you should carry all the essentials as the reserve
is situated in a remote place.
Bandhavgarh National Park is known for its enchanting
wilderness, and the tigers. But many people have no inclination toward ancient
idols cut from the rock and the inscriptions on the stone in the dense confines
of the park. The most amazing ancient structures are the Bandhavgarh Fort
complex and the idols of Lord Vishnu in zoomorphic forms. The original
structures were built by the Gonds that were subject to further additions by
many dynasties that came to rule here.
Tiger Safari at Bandhavgarh
The fort and its surroundings in the dense forests were
ruled by tigers and humans from time immemorial but the structures made by the
Gond civilization date back 2000 years. Gonds were worshippers of lord Vishnu
and other Hindu deities. On the top of the mountain, one will find idols of zoomorphic
avatars of Lord Vishnu. It is said that the fort was gifted to brother Laxman
by Lord Rama when he visited Bandhavgarh forests in exile.
The other structure that was carved in stones are courts,
horse stables, caves, and rooms and you will see stone wall now in ruins around
Bandhavgarh Hill. There are thirty-two steep cliffs and tabletop mountains at
Bandhavgarh. The terrain is characterized by steep cliffs deep glens and marshy
grasslands interspersed by rivulets.
Since the fort is out of bounds for tourism tourists cannot
visit the fort complex. They can go up to the Sesha Shaiyya or reclining
Vishnu. Sesh Shaiyya is a beautiful spot
where you can see the twenty feet idols of Lord Vishnu in a reclining position. The idol is crowned by the heads of the cobra
and the whole structure is covered in microscopic algae, fungi, and lichens.
Sesh Shaiyya is one of the most beautiful spots in the tiger reserve and must
visit. Those who are wishing to see the ancient structures must go for a tiger
safari at Tala in Bandhavgarh.
Rich in the wilderness the park is home to tigers, leopards,
wild dogs, sloth bears, bison, Nilgai, barking deer, four-horned deer, wild
boar, and monkeys. It is home to more than 250 birds including the winter
migrants.
For an exciting tiger safari at Bandhavgarh, a safari permit
is required. So book the safari in advance as the entry of vehicles is limited.
Safari can be booked online at MPOnline Portal. You can also ask the tour
operators to book a safari for you. They are in the know-how of the best zones
in the National Park for you to visit.
You can best reach Bandhavgarh from Jabalpur Airport at 175
km. The overnight train is also available from New Delhi to Umaria which is at
a distance of 32 km from Tala Township. Overnight trains from Mumbai and
Kolkata ply to Jabalpur in MP.
The strip of pristine Sal forests was once the hunting reserve of Maharajahs of Rewa Estate during the pre-independence period. The last Maharajah was a hunter turned conservationist, and is credited with discovering and nurturing the white tiger. Mohan, the white tiger cub was found in the forests of Sidhi an hour's drive from Bandhavgarh then contiguous.
Mohan was raised at Govindgarh Fortress by the Maharajah, and all the white tigers around the World are his progeny. Without much scientific pursuit, Maharajah Martandsinghji raised and increased the population, thanks to his understanding of big cat behavior and diligence. The strip of Sal forests where the cub was discovered is now known as Sanjay Dubri National Park. Both parks are situated in Central India in the state of Madhya Pradesh.
Bandhavgarh Civilization Where Time Stands Still
Much before the white cub was discovered in these contiguous forests tribes had found succor in the deep confines of the Sal forests. There were two prominent reasons for the existence of civilization in the inaccessible forests of Bandhavgarh.
Primary reason was based on the security provided by the steep cliffs and tabletop mountains without access. The reason was to avoid conflicts with neighboring tribes, and kingdoms. Bandhavgarh Fort at the height of 800 plus MSL provided an easy lookout to thwart invasions.
It was the Gond Tribes aligned with Rajputs that built the first structures, this was perhaps more than two thousand years back. The mention in ancient Hindu Scriptures date around two thousand years. As the story goes Lord Ram during his exile gifted the Fort to brother Laxman hence the name.
At heights, time stands still and you can experience the ambiance as it was back before humans arrived. Now your company will be zoomorphic idols and wild animals.
Recent Archeological Discoveries at Bandhavgarh
Most of the structures are carved out of the igneous rocks prevailing in the region. The civilizational remains are spread out over a large region covering more than 2000 sq.km. While Fort Complex was known from earlier times including the magnificent idols of Lord Vishnu in zoomorphic forms new artifacts and structures have been discovered recently by the ASI or Archeological Survey of India.
Based on newspaper reports, Hindu Temples, idols, inscriptions on stones, and cave walls have been discovered recently. ASI has also found Buddhist Stupas in the region authenticating Buddhist influence in the region.
Recent discoveries include:
26 Hindu Temples
Two Monastries
19 Reservoirs
Votive Stupas
24 Inscriptions
46 Sculptures
26 Caves
More is expected to be discovered making Bandhavgarh a treasure trove of ancient civilizational remains. The period mentioned dates to Raja Bhimsena, Maharajah Potteseri & Maharajah Bhattdeva of Kalchuri Dynasties. Some remains date back to the 2nd or 3rd Century AD. Some of the manmade caves date back to the 2nd Century BC highlighting civilization dating such a long time back.
The link from India Times News elaborates the discoveries for the readers.
Turbulence in Sylvan Surroundings
The remote and peaceful confines of the Bandhavgarh Forests were not very peaceful as such due to the constant internecine battles that raged between different dynasties that had come to rule the Bandhavgarh Fort, now in complete ruins. Stables, courts, ramparts, and cave shelters are all suggestive of an expanded turbulent era.
The Baghels were the last to rule this tribal refuge, and Maharajah Martandsinghji was the last ruler of the region. The Baghels had shifted their capital to Rewa a long time back, but the fort complex was well looked after. A Ram Laxman Janki Temple still stands as a testimony. However, most of the remains were out of human capacity to preserve due to inaccessibility and extreme climatic conditions. Air and water erosion brought lot many structures and artifacts to dust.
The Pujari
The royals still pay for the priestly service at the Hindu temple. The old Pujari a legendary figure who trudged the tiger-infested forests for the temple's upkeep is no more. His son now follows the same routine without fail.
Most charismatic sights greet tourists now, especially the spectacle at Sesh Shaiyya or reclining Vishnu. The fort complex is out of bounds, but the zoomorphic idols of Lord Vishu are well preserved. I was lucky to visit the fort complex a couple of decades back.
Bandhvagarh Tiger Refuge
The destination is now a tiger reserve and a National Park and is home to enchanting biodiversity and the Bengal Tiger. Only the forest staff shares accommodation with the big cats and the civilizational structures are completely bereft of human presence.
The tiger rules over the dizzy heights of the park's 32 steep cliffs and breeds in the panoramic landscape. The reserve is a biodiversity hub with more than 22 Central India Mammals, reptiles, insects, and avians. The floral habitats and the mountain rivers support incredible wilderness in an area comprising more than 1100 sq. km.
Except for the forest guards and tourists in 20 % of the core, the belligerent erstwhile soldiers and their rulers are nowhere in the picture, the only conquest that is slated at Bandhavgarh is the conservation of the endangered species.
Exploring Bandhavgarh
Tourism is organized at Bandhavgarh National Park every year. You can explore the pristine paradise by booking a permit at MPOnline Portal belonging to MP State. Day and evening safaris are organized in open jeeps and canters. But please book well in advance including the hotel accommodations in the buffer region.
Park is closed during the monsoon from 1 July to 30th September. You can reach the destination from Jabalpur Airport at 170 km or from the neighboring cities of Satna and Katni. Jabalpur provides the best access for inbound tourists from overseas.
Hectic urban life comes to a standstill as you set foot into the realm
of the tribal and the tiger.
All alone, I stood on the
tabletop mountain, transfixed by the looming spectacle of Lord Vishnu Idol on
the precipice. For a small-time travel writer, losing oneself in the void is
awe-inspiring, and a pathway to creativity.
As we traverse through the passage of life, we realize that some moments
are indelible, and even in a state of memory flux, they hang onto you like an
old family portrait on the wall. I could visualize the historical moment more
than two thousand years back when the zoomorphic idol was deftly carved out of
the igneous rock and placed on the precipice. As you stand aside the lion-faced
Visnu idol, you can visualize the Universe below your feet, and above you, the
massive ball of fire blood-soaked to the brim reminds you that life is real.
Bandhavgarh Grassland
The statue hung in a timeless
space all around me dwelling in eternity in an ambiance of absolute silence and
serenity. Bandhavgarh is one place in India where art and history come together
in the remote wilderness. Driven by passion and faith, the tribal of
Bandhavgarh carved timeless masterpieces that still linger like a nature quiz
with many questions unanswered.
With all the available land in
the open plains, why did the tribal venture deep into the forest to create this
fascinating architectural complex? It
was certainly a matter of faith, and the zoomorphic idols and the ancient
structures are a bold statement. Another reason was to avoid the ravage
of frequent wars with the neighboring clans.
Bengal Tiger
The aging rock structures are all
black, buff, and steel blue colored by the vermillion paste and impregnating
layers of microscopic vegetation. Well preserved, somewhat pock marked by
erosion, the zoomorphic idols are the road to the rediscovery of our ancient
culture.
The inert, aging, idols are a
rejuvenating sight when you venture into the mystical land. Bandhavgarh Fort
hangs in total ruins in the large complex,
but scattered architectural marvels have survived the evolutionary
forces that prevail on the Earth. In life nothing is permanent, but
incredulously these idols seem to overpower the phenomenon called change. Lord
Vishnu manifests here as tortoise, fish, boar, and lion. The aging brick walls,
large reservoirs, and crumbling temple structures are found all around the
complex. Only three temples stand in a perfect state of preservation perhaps built much later by a victorious Maharajah. Laxman Temple stands apart and is much visited by locals on holy occasions. A priest trudges 11km from the Tala village to tend to the Hindu temple. Tigers hide in the grassland and prowl all around the complex, they
frequent the place to breed and hunt. The place is out of bounds for tourists
now. Tigers rule Bandhvagarh!
Bandhavgarh More Than
A Tiger Land
Gond tribal inhabited this land, and
ruled over the vast stretch of forests that have now been fractured and culled
beyond our imagination. Bandhavgarh is the land of the tiger, but it is much
more. On one visit it becomes apparent that the paradise holds sights of wild
animals, birds, and ancient marvels that are going to make your holiday in the
wild incredulous.
Historical scars proliferate the
ruins and depict tales of conquests and defeats. Many dynasties came to rule
the region and were vanquished when overpowered. Situated at the height of 800
MSL the highest mountain is called Bandhavgarh which gave the tiger reserve and
National Park its name. All around are steep cliffs and tabletop mountains
embedded amidst the forest glades and deep glens fed by sparking mountain
rivulets that create an absorbing panoramic landscape. The picturesque terrain
is a spectacle beyond belief, and it excites the sensory apparatus at one
go. The mountain fort at the top was a
gift to brother Laxman by Lord Rama as the story goes and hence named
Bandhavgarh (Bandhav = brother, Garh=Fort). A large crowd of tribal and locals walk
through the forest and negotiate the steep ascent to the fort during Ram Navmi
and other Hindu festivals as an annual pilgrimage. On that day, the
out-of-bound tiger reserve is open to the pious.
Sesh Shaiyya or Reclining Vishnu
lies midway, a thankful respite for the weary pilgrims. While the fort complex
is out of bounds for the tourists Shesh
Shaiyya is not. It is a fairy tale grove shaded by Jamun and Sal towering over
an inert pool covered with moss and algae.
A twenty feet reclining idol of
Lord Vishnu crowned by a multiheaded cobra lies beside the pool. Water trickles
down like a minuscule fall from between thick ferns and grass creating a
mesmerizing spectacle. This is the spot to be to realize the essence of this
enchanting paradise. Traces of
vermillion, scattered flowers, and exhausted incense sticks indicate that the
fort priests and tourists on tiger safari pray to the Lord on frequent visits.
Hinduism is a colorful religion with ample freedom to pray with few
restrictions.
Situated in Central India, Bandhavgarh National Park is ideal for tiger safari holidays. One needs to book
permits and accommodations in advance. The park is closed during the monsoon
from July to September end.
For booking holidays contact MP Tiger Safari
Company: +91 8889469120
Driving through the wonderful Jabalpur-Shahpura highway is a picturesque treat to the eyes and the soul. Tree-lined and with not much traffic you get a holiday feel while driving. Yes, a holiday mood sets the mind right, and brings joy and peace, and so does this ride on a smooth road. The Jabalpur-Shahpura Highway (70km) leads to Ghagua Fossil Park, a land containing fossils dating back 60 million years. The fossils are plant-based and in a perfect state of preservation, a short halt is good for freshening up, and for a visit to the museum and exploring the fossils.
All through the drive, green fields, rustic hamlets, and tabletop mountains enhance your pleasure. In many places, the tree-lined forests are reminders of days whence the whole area was densely forested. Nevertheless, it is one of the best ways of reaching Bandhavgarh National Park situated in Madhya Pradesh.
Leopard at Bandhavgarh
Shahpura to Umaria
The drive from Shahpura to Umaria is palpable, a space without much urbanity in the picture. The isolated villages surrounded by green fields with ubiquitous pole fences full of cattle, and a makeshift cattle yard in most of the larger houses take you back to an earlier period when the time stood still as the urbanity had not yet made inroads. A bit paradoxical to call the drive into the interiors frozen in time nevertheless the indolent lifestyle cannot be experienced in the busy urbanity of the country.
Except for the villages and small townships, the rest of the 82 km drive is through the forests. The drive literally delivers a picture of what awaits upon reaching the holiday destination. The townships offer a hint of time changing albeit at a snail’s pace. Normally dusty, with clusters of ill-designed and ill-planned antiquated thatched or tiled roof houses that smack of urbanity slowly making inroads, they still appear to be out of sync with modern agglomerations in India.
Bandhavgarh
You can make a refreshing stop at a small but quaint MPTDC Resorts before Shahpura. It serves fresh snacks like idli, poha, and sandwiches along with hot chai or coffee. My bet was on sizzling hot pakoras served with chutney after eons of wait. If you are not hungry buy a packet of chips or peanuts and a cola to while away the time. The mountain landscape and a large man-made reservoir capped by a broad vista of tall trees on the road create picturesque settings for tired travelers.
Much cheaper options are the tea stalls at Shahpura the places sans the toilets are right on the street but some of them sell fresh hot vegetable pakoras and samosa that can make your day. Near the forest office, a diversion leads to Umaria which is at a distance of 50 km. From Umaria, the drive to Tala is 32 km most of it through the outskirts of the National Park.
The whole drive is reminiscent of holiday tours when I was young in the seventies, the countryside was a lot greener due to dense forest patches all along the way. The complete lack of urbanity, metal roads, and quaint but primitive dwellings full of shy rustic inhabitants smacked of dismal backwardness to tourists in small cars that were popular in those days. The vehicles available with the taxi services in those days were Fiat and the rugged Ambassadors. In spite of the shock absorbers, the automobiles skidded and rebounded mercilessly on the unkempt metal pathways breaking every bone in the body. The noise inside the cars was of a terrifying decibel, and it corresponded with the jumps and bumps that we frequently encountered. The drive-by any means in sedans and luxury cars also used as taxis are much more enjoyable these days.
Some modern amenities like cold beverages, basic medicines, and FMCG products are available in the roadside villages nowadays. The navigation through these townships is usually on a single narrow metal road. One has to be cautious driving through cow-littered roads and clusters of shops and houses. One element that I strive to see is the gaudy yellow stripped statues of tigers usually made of clay near the roadsides. Indians venerate all life forms, and the big cat holds a significant place in the Hindu pantheon. Ascribed the role of a vehicle for the Goddess, the idols refer to a period whence the tigers were everywhere in India. The figures are a sad reminder of what we practice alongside the preaching.
As you cross over the hamlets, the absence of cow dung and trash is a visible relief after a suffocating intersection. Before you reach Umaria, a jungle road leads to an ancient temple chiseled out of igneous rock which I have visited once. Ensconced in an enchanting grove surrounded by forests the temple is a pretty sight. It dates back to the 10th Century built perhaps by the Culchuris, the same ruling dynasty that built the Khajuraho Temples.
After a short visit, you drive on to reach the Umaria Town, HQ of Umaria District in Madhya Pradesh. The Bandhavgarh FD Office is situated in this town. Preferred for consumer purchases, the town is cluttered and crowded at most junctions, it is a big disappointment for holidaymakers but then you get some modern consumables here. Make necessary purchases at Umaria before embarking to Tala township on the outskirts of Bandhavgarh National Park. Use ATM or banking facilities if required. Umaria is a railhead and those who travel by rail alight here. The town is well connected by busses that ply on the road network and by the trains. Taxi services for long-distance travel are also available here.
Thankfully, a side road with less traffic leads to the Tala - Manpur Road. Tala is a micro township situated at the doorstep of the tiger reserve. The 32 km drive is pleasant green and as usual, comprises humanity and fields. The forests become apparent from Dhamokhar Range (11km) which is now included in the buffer zone for safari. Successful conservation measures have created a corridor for big cats of Bandhavgarh, and sighting does take place here. So drive slowly from here onwards since your safari has begun. Keep an eye on the roadside forests to sight a tiger or a sambar deer. After the local extinction, 50 Gaur have been relocated here and they can now be seen at Bhadrashila a small reservoir again. These massive beasts although gentle can be ferocious when disturbed so drive past if you come across them.
From here onwards you get a glimpse of the steep cliffs and tabletop mountains that are a characteristic feature of this wild heaven. The drive turns into an exotic experience with an aura of grandeur cast by the cliffs. There are 32 steep cliffs that are spread across the reserve. They create an impression of magnificence as you drive through them during the excursions in the core.
As you drive on towards the township, on the right is the MP Forest Rest House - the only accommodation years back whence tourism was at a nascent stage. It is reserved for officials and VIP Guests now. A little ahead, the township comprising of shops, and cluttered dwellings greet you. Old isolated huts suffocatingly squeezed now in between more stylish shops, and small restaurants selling various goods, You will overtake the Maharani Kothi, the Royal dwelling of erstwhile HH Queen of Rewa Estate. Part of the property has been converted to a resort and is much visited.
Tala Gate is the entrance to the Tala Zone of the park for excursions. If you have not booked a safari permit for Bandhavgarh then you book it here. Twenty percent of the park's core area is reserved for tourism. Tourism is also organized in the buffer. Each tourism zone has a separate entrance.
Most of the hotels and resorts are situated near the Tala township while some are placed further in different locations. It is advisable to book the safari permits and the hotel accommodations much in advance.
Jeep Safari
Bandhavgarh resorts and hotels offer various packages for a stay that range from budget to super luxurious. The best is to visit websites on the net and discover one that suits your style and the pocket.
Some of the accommodations here are a treat and can make your holiday a big success but please do not expect low prices since managing properties and serving food in remote locations requires a lot of resources. Choose a place with classic traditional interiors and exteriors away from Tala to experience local surroundings and architecture these properties nevertheless are equipped with all modern amenities and some offer great service.
If you wish to stay near Tala the Tiger Den is best. I love to stay at this resort for the great service and food. It is well structured with a manicured garden hence the outside noise does not make inroads.
For tiger safari, an extended stay of a week or more is recommended for wildlife enthusiasts, professional photographers, and filmmakers. Holidaymakers usually stay for 2 or 3 days.
Jabalpur Airport and Railway Station are well connected with Mumbai, Kolkatta, Bangalore, Chennai, Hyderabad, and some other destinations. The drive to Bandhavgarh is four hours via Shahpura-Umaria Highway.
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Uday is a blogger and offers Seo + Content For Digital Marketing Services.
He teaches digital marketing (SEO) in Jabalpur.
He freelances as a naturalist/birder at Kanha National Park. He loves to write about travel.
Kuttappan, Nair, Vithal, Shukla, and Thakur all names come alive when reminiscence strikes. On my first visit to Bandhavgarh National Park and a Tiger Reserve, I was hooked. "This is it!"I said to myself. Since then an nth number of visits have followed, and continue till this day. The characters named here were associates that turned the dream safaris into a reality in the tiger land.
Whence you get the first glimpse of the mountains driving on the road to Tala from Umaria you feel like paradise is right here. It is!
Bandhavgarh is more than a tiger reserve, it is a hill resort and cradle of an ancient tribal civilization. The numerous telltale signs of ancient India, forts, caves shelters, idols, and temples all spring a surprise as you journey into the wilderness overgrown with herbs and shrubs, tall trees, and grass.
Nevertheless, a perfect ecosystem, the mountain rivers add to the sheen and glamour of this panoramic wilderness in remote India. The drive in the undulating terrain created by geological upheaval from the day the Earth was born has created an amazing tapestry that mesmerizes at very first sight. The inaccessible heights remain as they were since the time of creation chiseled to perfection - the shapes and size - by indomitable forces of nature.
Romance is instant, the hustle and bustle of a big town are left behind once you reach the park confines and absolute calm prevails in this amazing wilderness home of enchanting animals and birds.
Reclining Vishnu
Whence you visit the structures in the park especially Shesh Shaiyya time comes to an absolute halt. The only living element besides you is the cool mountain breeze that brushes past you gently. The picturesque spot is a visit to witness esoteric emblems that have been seamlessly inserted into the surroundings such as to create oneness with nature. Modern architecture fails in this respect. The grove is a blessing for the parched with aching limbs, and I lie down on the parapet of the encircling wall and fall in deep reverie.
What do you do whence you come across the esoteric?
You simply imbibe in absolute silence to enable your sensory apparatus to grasp and digest. Almost fairy tale atmosphere prevails at Sesh Shaiyya, the resting place of Lord Vishnu where he sleeps as a twenty feet reclining idol carved out of igneous rocks. Lying listlessly, the structure crowned with Sesh Nag (Cobra) is frozen in time awaiting resurrection perhaps. Nevertheless, fed by the mountain river Charanganga the magical lair comprises an algae-layered pond and fern-covered rocks on the mountainside. Lichens, fungi, and algae create a colorful mosaic in the surroundings like an artistic creation. The patterns on the rocks and the idol placed amidst the tropical greenery simply spellbind. The place dwells in an environment of absolute tranquility and peace.
The only buzz of activity is the humming of the birds and bees and sometimes an occasional blood-curdling roar of the tiger. Then silence prevails...you can imagine the hoofs of horses as soldiers climb the tortuous ascent on the way to the fort at the top of the mountain. The cool ambiance of the place and water all around provided succor to tired soldiers returning from internecine wars.
When you climb the fort, the World fades into a distance and everything appears alien till you reach the idol at the precarious edge of the mountain. The Idol looms large on the edge of the mountain weathering the winds. One look and then you realize that the World is real and ruled by celestial entities. Imagine!
All alone, amidst the tall grass and azure blue sky above, the pathway seems to be the road to Nirvana. Be careful, tigers and leopards lurk around the bushes. My nerves rattle, and my mind is in delusion, but I keep pumping up ahead in the rising heat. I am searching for my photographer friend. And there she is a lady from the distant land of Germany.
The fort is in shambles with broken walls as evidence but the large reservoirs created more than 2000 years back still survive. So does the temple dedicated to Ram, Janki, and Laxman. The place is littered with broken structures...they are nevertheless captivating religious artifacts...Hinduism is a colorful religion and so are the paraphernalia and the rituals associated with the practice. It is all evident here at the top of Bandhavgarh Mountain on the premises of the ancient fort.
A gift to brother Laxman by Lord Ram an incarnation of Lord Vishnu, the fort is aptly named as such (Bandhav = brother, Garh = Fort). A fort for brother Laxman and true to the heavenly stature in essence the fort is very much alive. A pujari (Hindu Priest) walks for eleven kilometers through the absolute wilderness to pray in the land of the tiger. Stoic, unruffled by the big cats, snakes, and predators he has been conducting prayers ever since the erstwhile Maharajah of Rewa inducted him into the holy service.
Zoomorphic idols of Lord Vishnu in various animal avatars are the object of extreme intrigue for the uninitiated and are not familiar with Hinduism's existential philosophy. The vast expanse of the place makes you feel tiny like a spec in the Universe. An eagle flying overhead its call ricocheting across steep cliffs creates a picture of heaven as we climb down the mountain.
*Note the fort is out of bounds now but you can drive up to reclining Vishnu. You will need a safari permit for Tala Range. Bandhavgarh is accessible by four hours drive from Jabalpur Airport in Central India or the State of Madhya Pradesh.
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Uday is a blogger and offers Seo + Content For Digital Marketing Services.
He teaches digital marketing (SEO) in Jabalpur.
He freelances as a naturalist/birder at Kanha National Park. He loves to write on travel.
Situated in the Highlands of Central India Bandhavgarh is a paradise and tiger heaven. Wrongfully credited with sightings of the first and only white tiger in the World, the destination was contiguous with Sanjay National Park nearby in Sidhi District its rightful birthplace.
This tiger reserve nevertheless is one of the most prolific breeding grounds for the big cats. It is a land of upheaval with a tortured terrain charismatic and densely forested. Bare-faced steep cliffs jut out of the earthen womb as a huge surprise. The lofty land mass creates deep glens and marshy plains where mountain rivulets invade...they are the lifeline of this diverse ecosystem that supports a myriad of lifeforms. The big cats prefer to hunt in the marshy grasslands which slows the movement of the herbivores.
The National Park is ideal for animal and bird watching with a focus on the tigers. There are more than twenty-two mammals in the park beside a large number of reptilian species and birds. Ideal for wildlife holidays the destination also provides recreation and excitement on tour. Experiencing remote India has a calming effect with serenity and picture-perfect ambiance all around. The forests are home to peace and silence and the feeling is exhilarating.
There is a little-known secret of this destination. An ancient civilization that thrived more than two thousand years back has left telltale marks in form of a fort, temples, pool, and numerous structures that confine themselves to the Tala Zone. Created by tribal and dynasties that came to rule now and then the architectural splendor is like a cynosure in the deep jungles devoid of modern urbanity. The fort is out of bounds for tourists but Sesh Shaiyya a reclining statue of Lord Vishnu is worth a visit. It is a small pool under a grove that contains the statue and numerous trickles emerge from the fern-infested slopes of the mountain that inundates. It is an esoteric experience in the place where the tigress often breeds. The River Charanganga emerges from this mountain and flows down to the plains creating a spectacular biodiversity hub. Time stands still in these confines as if frozen for eternity.
Shesh Shhaiya
On the way to the park at Umaria about 32 km, you will also come across a 10th-century temple with the telltale architecture of ancient Central India. The access to reach Umaria and then Bandhavgarh is through Shahpura Township eighty km from Jabalpur Airport. The township is famous for plant fossils dating back 60 million years. The Fossil Park is situated on the way to Mandla and houses a museum or a collection of fossils along with a cafeteria. This is an ideal stop for freshening up and exploring the fossils.
Jabalpur to Shahpura via Kundum drive is safe and pleasant along the scenic surrounds, teak forests, green fields, and quaint hamlets situated in between the mountains. The rows of dhabas or eateries provide hot snacks and meals to travelers. They are small and hygienic places some with toilet facilities to facilitate this long journey.
Albeit there is not much need to make a stop nevertheless a cup of tea on the way is refreshing as you will encounter many little shops selling this wonderful brew. Most of the purchasing of essentials should be done at Jabalpur with flights connected to New Delhi, Hyderabad, Kolkata, and Mumbai. The railhead too is well connected.
A short holiday of at least two nights should be organized, and permits should be booked in advance at MP Online Portal. Entry into the core zone is not permitted to those without a permit. There is a number of wildlife resorts for accommodation which you can book online. These accommodations provide you with good food as well which includes Intercontinental and Indian.
Safaris are conducted in the early morning period and then in the late evening. The excursions are conducted on open jeeps and canters. On-foot safari and off-roading are not possible at Bandhavgarh Reserve.
For overseas visitors on tiger safari in Central India it is best to contact a tour operator. The packages available take care of all the bookings and journeys besides being economical. Group travel is the best means to travel on package tours organized for wildlife watching and birding.
The package tours also include travel to Kanha National Park at a distance of five hours via Shahpura from Bandhavgarh. Kanha is a popular tiger reserve and much visited.
Quaint and sublime, the forests of Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve are a veritable paradise on Earth. Hidden deep inside in remote access of Central India - the park is an amazing biodiversity hub.
Known more for its tigers, one can experience India's enchanting wilderness at best here. Every year thousands of overseas and local visitors arrive here for a tiger safari.
The scattered ruins enhance the esoteric charm of Bandhavgarh suggesting history that dates back 2000 years. A game round takes you way back into a turbulent past of Maharajahs amidst teeming wildlife.
The diverse flora changes landscapes with startling fervor as you move into the bush country, dense forests, and rolling grasslands. The marshy landscape accord immense beauty and it is here that you can see the tiger in the wild.
Known for Sal (Shorea robusta) trees and the moist deciduous types abound along with mixed canopy. Though the reserve encompasses a large area of about eleven hundred km the tourism zone is restricted to four hundred plus km. This is a big enough window to peek into the magnificent wilderness.
Deer, bison, leopard, sloth bear, and wild dogs share the kingdom of magnificent tigers. Birds abound and are a treat to watch as they emerge from the dense canopy in resplendent attire. Bandhavgarh is a bird-watching hot spot in India sadly neglected and suppressed by the enigma of big cats. More than two hundred species can be sighted albeit in different seasons. Migrants arrive in winter and depart before the summer peaks.
The visitor profile changes with the seasons, and nature lovers and holidaymakers arrive in the winter and festive seasons. Wildlife photographers prefer extensive sunlight in the summer months despite the heat. The park is busy throughout but holidays and weekends should be avoided.
The fort is in ruins now, and out of bounds for the visitors but one must drive up to Sesh Shaiyya on the way. This is an enigmatic statue of Lord Visnu carved out of a twenty feet long igneous rock. The ensemble or ruins consisting of temples, stables, caves, and zoo-morphic idols enchant the visitors on a jeep safari.
The reserve is a National Park and a conservation unit, declared a protected area for saving the tiger from the brink of extinction. The efforts have been successful despite many hurdles. You can see the transformation yourself on safaris. Tigers and other mammals are sighted with a greater degree of frequency.
A set of rules apply for tourists which one must follow. A limited number of jeeps are allowed to enter the tourist zones every day. Hence you must book the entry in advance.
Located in the Umaria District of Madhya Pradesh, the connectivity for easy access is excellent. The nearest airport and rail hub is Jabalpur City. The drive from Jabalpur is about 175 km.
At this amazing Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve, luxury hotels abound for accommodation. The tourism infrastructure is proper and a good degree of comfort prevails making the destination tourist-friendly. If you are planning a holiday in India do experience the exotic wilderness at its best
From unknown to worldwide popularity has been the saga of this verdant paradise on Earth. Bandhavgarh National Park was the erstwhile kingdom of Maharajahs of Rewa. Successive dynasties have ruled this forest kingdom. The ruins are witness to this historic upheaval of centuries of conquests. Temples, forts in ruins, stables, idols, and manmade caves are creations of the warring dynasties.
Leopard
Conquerors made their marks before being vanquished by the victors, but the forest lay unperturbed by the turbulence in its premises. The ecosystem is nurtured and protected, the wilderness ruled by the tiger. No more a fiefdom of the usurpers, the destination is home to an impressive biodiversity. People of all walks of life from near and far arrive here to witness the exuberant growth of its flora and the enchanting fauna.
Tiger
Bandhavgarh first came to light whence the white tiger was discovered nearby. Since then this esoteric recessive gene has not been discovered in the wilds of tiger lands.
Declared a protected area, a park is a conservation unit that nurtures critically endangered animals. Tiger rules supreme as a tertiary carnivore accompanied by the leopard and the wild dog.
Other carnivores found are the jackal, fox, hyena, and wolf. The last two I have not seen for many years and they are probably on verge of extinction. Deer and antelope form the prey base while numerous life forms complete the web of life to form an ecosystem with niche habitats.
Tiger
Park is home to more impressive avian species albeit few birders arrive here to watch them. The major share of popularity has been taken over by the big cats. After the films by NGC and BBC, paradise gained wide publicity and witnessed a sudden surge of tourists from all over.
Peacock
Situated at the edge of the reserve at Tala Village the Kothi of Maharani is reminiscent of a lonely past. Protected as a hunting preserve, the Maharajahs of Rewa were avid hunters and conservationists as well. The hunting privilege was accorded to a few dignitaries and the woods were well protected.
The Kothi along with the scattered ruins are now frozen in time. In the early days of tourism post-independence, a rest house at Tala provided accommodation to the few who visited this preserve. Then the White Tiger Lodge was established followed by a plethora of lodges once tourism mushroomed in this remote quarter of Central India.
Crested Serpent Eagle
Bandhavgarh National Park now a tiger reserve is regarded as a major conservation center. Tourism flourishes alongside to extol the nature’s bounty and the saga of preservation.
Brown Fish Owl
The ideal access point is Jabalpur City in MP. Connectivity by air and overnight rail is preferred while local arrivals drive from the satellite towns like Khajuraho, Katni, and Satna. Accommodation can be availed at luxury hotels in Bandhavgarh near the main Tala Gate.
Albeit wildlife can be experienced throughout the open season, overseas travelers prefer the winter season. Wildlife photographers prefer the extensive sunlight of the scorching summer. Park is closed during the monsoon from July to September.
When planning a tiger safari fetch along books on birds, binoculars, cloth as per the seasons, and personal necessities.
Situated in the cradle of the Vindhya Hills a chain of mountains that lie to the North of India. The park is situated in Umaria District of Madhya Pradesh. The erstwhile hunting reserve of Maharajahs of Rewa is now a protected area.
Apart from dense tiger forests the reserve boats of ancient ruins that date twenty centuries back in history. The ruins belong to ruling Hindu Kings who left their marks on the mountainous tract. The park is home to many animals especially the Bengal Tiger that rules the ruins and the forests. Being a core of protected area no human habitation is allowed anymore.
The ruins are in shape of idols, statues, caves, horse shelters, temples and gates. The fort lies atop the Bandhavgarh Mountain at 800 MSL. Now in rums some elements are still intact. The unique feature of the fort in ruin is the zoo-morphic statues of Lord Vishnu. Scattered along the tableau are statues of Visnu as Varah, Matsya and Sinh avatar. The Ram Janki Temples lies on the edge of the plateau overlooking the magnificent reserve.
Hindu Temple
On the ascent to the fort lies Sesh Shaiyya or sleeping idol of Lord Vishnu on edge of the pool. Esoteric and fairy land like the pool is man made and ancient. Ferns and small shrubs decorate the surroundings creating a cool precinct that offered succor and shelter to thirsty and exhausted soldiers of yore.
Fort Entrance
There are ruins all over and many can be seen on tiger safari at Bandhavgarh. The wildlife is enchanting and consists of tiger, leopard, sloth bear, dhole, deer, and bison. The number of hillocks create a mesmerizing topography making the park one of the most picturesque in India.
Fort Ruins
In order to reach the destination one needs to drive 170 km from Jabalpur airport & rail head. Other ways of reaching Bandhavgarh are by rail. An overnight train halts at Umaria station 32 km from the park. The road network is well connected.
Tiger
There are many hotels in Bandhavgarh for accommodation near by in the buffer zone. They conform to different grades like luxury, deluxe, five star and budget. Rest houses are also available for stay but booking is accorded only to Government Officials.
Reclining Vishnu
Prior booking of safaris are advisable as they are booked well in advance. The bookings can be made at MP Online Portal. The hotels and resorts cane be booked using the websites.
Tucked away in remote access of Central India Bandhavgarh is the land of the tiger. Things do not end here the destination offers some of the most ancient and exotic architecture amidst the overgrown wilderness. Dating as far as 2000 years back numerous artifacts and structures are lying untended all over the place.
Fort Entrance
The fort built by the Gond Rulers is called Bandhavgarh hence the name of the park. The idols and structures are an archeologist's delight albeit the fort is no more only scattered remains exist. There is an ancient Ram Janki Temple facing the park.
The gate a looming arch is suggestive of a large encampment that must have been manned by a retinue of sentinels always at war with the invaders. The zoomorphic idols of Lord Vishnu are a treat to discover. Made of igneous rock they depict Vishnu in form of animals
Temple at Fort Complex
The remote location and inaccessible terrain must have acted as a hideaway for the numerous dynasties that came to rule over its dizzy heights. A mile below the campus is Shesh Shaiyya a reclining idol of Lord Vishnu beside a fairy pool surrounded by verdant greenery in betwixt the dense forests on the slopes. The Charanganga originates from the mountains and drops down to the plains. It creates slushy meadows as it meanders between the low-lying hills covered with dense vegetation. This is the land of the tiger and leopard the big cats that roam Central India. The climb to reclining Vishnu is steep and needs experts to drive up. The erstwhile Maharajahs of Rewa Estate nearby were regular visitors to the Fort. Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve was the shikargah of their domain and hence received a lot of protection.
Ram Janki Temple
The hunting preserve was declared a protected area in the year nineteen sixty-eight. It was given the status of a National Park and eventually brought under the aegis of Project Tiger.
Bison were relocated from Kanha National Park after the original stock had died down due to disease. Other animals to be seen here are the dhole, leopard, sloth bear, nilgai, sambar, spotted deer, barking deer, and four-horned deer. Wild boar, peacock, and langur are a common sight among many avian species.
Sesh Shaiyya
ManMade Reservoir
Male Tiger
Tiger
There are more than two hundred fifty bird species to be found in the tiger reserve. Reptiles are nocturnal but on rare occasions, a python could be seen. Other nocturnal animals and the less seen ones are ruddy mongooses, small Indian civets, pangolins, toddy cats, and ratel to name a few.
The park is open from October 16 to June 30th every year. Most tourists prefer winter months for tiger safari. But a lot of holiday crowd arrives during summer whence tiger visibility increases slightly.
Tiger in Water
The preserve is located in Umaria District about four hours' drive from Jabalpur Airport and Railhead. Road connectivity exists in many nearby towns.
Tourism is well organized in the park. For accommodation, there are many wildlife resorts in Bandhavgarh which are economic. There are many luxury hotels that are expensive but preferable. A couple five stars and three hotels also provide accommodation to the upmarket crowd. Government accommodations are few and reserved only for state employees and VIPs.
Khajuraho can be reached from here which is about eight hour drive by road. About 45 km from Khajuraho is the Panna Tiger Reserve another tiger heaven.
In remote district of Madhya Pradesh or Central India lie the amazing imprints of an ancient human civilization. The Rewa forests were known more by Shikari’s and wood loggers than others. It was a chance discovery of white tiger that brought Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve to the World tourist map. The white tiger was found near these forests by the erstwhile Maharajah if Rewa estate.
The tiger reserve is situated in Umaria District a forest belt with dense canopy and tribal hamlets. Since more than two thousand years tigers and humans lived together in this wilderness. Unlike the modern times there was no conflict between the two then. But civilization came one after the other and vanished into antiquity. The tigers remained but badly decimated by shikaris and poachers, the forest where ravaged and their wealth plundered. Today forests survive as small pockets scattered here and there.
Though a small reserve, Bandhavgarh is an enchanting paradise on Earth. Amidst the dense Sal forests lie ruins of ancient kingdom. Scattered around are man made caves, stables, temples in ruin and shelters carved out of igneous rocks. The climb to Shesh Shaiyya is steep and rugged but rewarding. This mesmerizing pool besides the reclining statue of Lord Vishnu enthralls one and all. The ferns, vines, shrubs adorn the whole scape on the slopes of Bandhavgarh Hill. The pool is fed by trickles of water and miniature falls from the vegetation on the slope. Tigers splash in the pool whence devoid of humans.
From Shesh Shaiyya it is a steep climb to the top of the hill where in lies the magnificent 2000 year fort in ruins. The hillock is at height of 800 MSL and is part of the Vindhya Range. It towers over the conglomeration of marshy grasslands, deep valleys and dense forest belts, fed by snaking rivulets all around. The place offers a panoramic view of the reserve. The first spectacle is the arch still preserved but tampered by later dynasties. The second good spectacle is of a tall statue of Lord Vishnu on the edge over looking the forests below. Then between stretches of grasslands there lie scattered large reservoirs all man made. The statues of Lord in fish and turtle forms intrigue as do all zoomorphic depictions in this reserve. The Laxman Temple stands near the rampart and is regularly visited by the worshipers.
The ruins are scattered all over, the fort was not plundered or destroyed but disentangled with passage of times. But the process could not envelope the stone and masonry work which still remain. Some structures still remain. The site is a virtual museum of ancient architecture and delightful carvings of Gods and Goddesses. There are many small temples within the fortification and more structures that are little away from the main complex. There are historical reference to it in ancient Hindu scriptures.
The plateau now back to wilderness supports lot of life forms including tigers and leopards. It is eerie and scary to be up there alone in the lost kingdom. The Fort is enchanting and esoteric - worth a visit if you wish to experience ancient India.
There are many places of interest near the park. Most of the accommodation in Bandhavgarh is offered by jungle resorts both luxurious and budget. Book hotels in advance to avoid heavy seasonal rush. You can book Indian tiger tour as well at MP online kiosks. There are many affordable tour operator packages In MP that conduct wildlife safaris in the tiger reserve. the best season is winters but hot summer offers a unique ambiance to the visitors.
The National Park is approachable from Jabalpur and directly from New Delhi up to Umaria by Rail. It is at a distance of 170 plus km from Jbp which is connected by Air with New Delhi. All tiger reserves, Khajuraho and Pachmarhi can be reached from Jabalpur in Madhya Pradesh.
TOFT Award Winner earlier worked as Sr. Naturalist at Kanha Tiger Reserve in Central India. Also a birding guide.
I also provide Internet Marketing (SEO) Services and website content writing in English. At present, he provides SEO and Content Writing Services to Above the Fold Agency in Mumbai.
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