Bandhavgarh Historical Treasure Trove of Ancient Artifacts & Civilizational Remains

White Tiger Story 

The strip of pristine Sal forests was once the hunting reserve of Maharajahs of Rewa Estate during the pre-independence period. The last Maharajah was a hunter turned conservationist, and is credited with discovering and nurturing the white tiger. Mohan, the white tiger cub was found in the forests of Sidhi an hour's drive from Bandhavgarh then contiguous. 

Mohan was raised at Govindgarh Fortress by the Maharajah, and all the white tigers around the World are his progeny. Without much scientific pursuit, Maharajah Martandsinghji raised and increased the population, thanks to his understanding of big cat behavior and diligence.  The strip of Sal forests where the cub was discovered is now known as Sanjay Dubri National Park. Both parks are situated in Central India in the state of Madhya Pradesh. 

Bandhavgarh Civilization Where Time Stands Still 

Much before the white cub was discovered in these contiguous forests tribes had found succor in the deep confines of the Sal forests. There were two prominent reasons for the existence of civilization in the inaccessible forests of Bandhavgarh. 

Primary reason was based on the security provided by the steep cliffs and tabletop mountains without access. The reason was to avoid conflicts with neighboring tribes, and kingdoms. Bandhavgarh Fort at the height of 800 plus MSL provided an easy lookout to thwart invasions.  

It was the Gond Tribes aligned with Rajputs that built the first structures, this was perhaps more than two thousand years back. The mention in ancient Hindu Scriptures date around two thousand years. As the story goes Lord Ram during his exile gifted the Fort to brother Laxman hence the name. 

At heights, time stands still and you can experience the ambiance as it was back before humans arrived. Now your company will be zoomorphic idols and wild animals. 

Recent Archeological Discoveries at Bandhavgarh 

Most of the structures are carved out of the igneous rocks prevailing in the region. The civilizational remains are spread out over a large region covering more than 2000 sq.km. While Fort Complex was known from earlier times including the magnificent idols of Lord Vishnu in zoomorphic forms new artifacts and structures have been discovered recently by the ASI or Archeological Survey of India. 

Based on newspaper reports, Hindu Temples, idols, inscriptions on stones, and cave walls have been discovered recently. ASI has also found Buddhist Stupas in the region authenticating Buddhist influence in the region.  

Recent discoveries include:

• 26 Hindu Temples
• Two Monastries 
• 19 Reservoirs 
• Votive Stupas 
• 24 Inscriptions 
• 46 Sculptures 
• 26 Caves

More is expected to be discovered making Bandhavgarh a treasure trove of ancient civilizational remains. The period mentioned dates to Raja Bhimsena, Maharajah Potteseri & Maharajah Bhattdeva of Kalchuri Dynasties.  Some remains date back to the 2nd or 3rd Century AD. Some of the manmade caves date back to the 2nd Century BC highlighting civilization dating such a long time back.  

The link from India Times News elaborates the discoveries for the readers. 

Turbulence in Sylvan Surroundings 

The remote and peaceful confines of the Bandhavgarh Forests were not very peaceful as such due to the constant internecine battles that raged between different dynasties that had come to rule the Bandhavgarh Fort, now in complete ruins. Stables, courts, ramparts, and cave shelters are all suggestive of an expanded turbulent era.  

The Baghels were the last to rule this tribal refuge, and Maharajah Martandsinghji was the last ruler of the region. The Baghels had shifted their capital to Rewa a long time back, but the fort complex was well looked after. A Ram Laxman Janki Temple still stands as a testimony. However, most of the remains were out of human capacity to preserve due to inaccessibility and extreme climatic conditions. Air and water erosion brought lot many structures and artifacts to dust. 

The Pujari 

The royals still pay for the priestly service at the Hindu temple. The old Pujari a legendary figure who trudged the tiger-infested forests for the temple's upkeep is no more. His son now follows the same routine without fail. 

 

Most charismatic sights greet tourists now, especially the spectacle at Sesh Shaiyya or reclining Vishnu. The fort complex is out of bounds, but the zoomorphic idols of Lord Vishu are well preserved.  I was lucky to visit the fort complex a couple of decades back. 

Bandhvagarh Tiger Refuge 

The destination is now a tiger reserve and a National Park and is home to enchanting biodiversity and the Bengal Tiger. Only the forest staff shares accommodation with the big cats and the civilizational structures are completely bereft of human presence. 

The tiger rules over the dizzy heights of the park's 32 steep cliffs and breeds in the panoramic landscape. The reserve is a biodiversity hub with more than 22 Central India Mammals, reptiles, insects, and avians.  The floral habitats and the mountain rivers support incredible wilderness in an area comprising more than 1100 sq. km. 

Except for the forest guards and tourists in 20 % of the core, the belligerent erstwhile soldiers and their rulers are nowhere in the picture, the only conquest that is slated at Bandhavgarh is the conservation of the endangered species. 

Exploring Bandhavgarh 

Tourism is organized at Bandhavgarh  National Park every year. You can explore the pristine paradise by booking a permit at MPOnline Portal belonging to MP State. Day and evening safaris are organized in open jeeps and canters. But please book well in advance including the hotel accommodations in the buffer region.

Park is closed during the monsoon from 1 July to 30th September. You can reach the destination from Jabalpur Airport at 170 km or from the neighboring cities of Satna and Katni. Jabalpur provides the best access for inbound tourists from overseas. 

At Bandhavgarh, The Blood Soaked Sun Hangs Listless Over the Mountain Tops

Tribal Structures of Bandhavgarh

Hectic urban life comes to a standstill as you set foot into the realm of the tribal and the tiger.

All alone, I stood on the tabletop mountain, transfixed by the looming spectacle of Lord Vishnu Idol on the precipice. For a small-time travel writer, losing oneself in the void is awe-inspiring, and a pathway to creativity.  As we traverse through the passage of life, we realize that some moments are indelible, and even in a state of memory flux, they hang onto you like an old family portrait on the wall. I could visualize the historical moment more than two thousand years back when the zoomorphic idol was deftly carved out of the igneous rock and placed on the precipice. As you stand aside the lion-faced Visnu idol, you can visualize the Universe below your feet, and above you, the massive ball of fire blood-soaked to the brim reminds you that life is real.

Bandhavgarh Grassland

The statue hung in a timeless space all around me dwelling in eternity in an ambiance of absolute silence and serenity. Bandhavgarh is one place in India where art and history come together in the remote wilderness. Driven by passion and faith, the tribal of Bandhavgarh carved timeless masterpieces that still linger like a nature quiz with many questions unanswered.

With all the available land in the open plains, why did the tribal venture deep into the forest to create this fascinating architectural complex?  It was certainly a matter of faith, and the zoomorphic idols and the ancient structures are a bold statement. Another reason was to avoid the ravage of frequent wars with the neighboring clans. 

Bengal Tiger

The aging rock structures are all black, buff, and steel blue colored by the vermillion paste and impregnating layers of microscopic vegetation. Well preserved, somewhat pock marked by erosion, the zoomorphic idols are the road to the rediscovery of our ancient culture.

The inert, aging, idols are a rejuvenating sight when you venture into the mystical land. Bandhavgarh Fort hangs in total ruins in the large complex,  but scattered architectural marvels have survived the evolutionary forces that prevail on the Earth. In life nothing is permanent, but incredulously these idols seem to overpower the phenomenon called change. Lord Vishnu manifests here as tortoise, fish, boar, and lion. The aging brick walls, large reservoirs, and crumbling temple structures are found all around the complex. Only three temples stand in a perfect state of preservation perhaps built much later by a victorious Maharajah. Laxman  Temple stands apart and is much visited by locals on holy occasions. A priest trudges 11km from the Tala village to tend to the Hindu temple. Tigers hide in the grassland and prowl all around the complex, they frequent the place to breed and hunt. The place is out of bounds for tourists now. Tigers rule Bandhvagarh! 

Bandhavgarh More Than A Tiger Land

Gond tribal inhabited this land, and ruled over the vast stretch of forests that have now been fractured and culled beyond our imagination. Bandhavgarh is the land of the tiger, but it is much more. On one visit it becomes apparent that the paradise holds sights of wild animals, birds, and ancient marvels that are going to make your holiday in the wild incredulous.

Historical scars proliferate the ruins and depict tales of conquests and defeats. Many dynasties came to rule the region and were vanquished when overpowered. Situated at the height of 800 MSL the highest mountain is called Bandhavgarh which gave the tiger reserve and National Park its name. All around are steep cliffs and tabletop mountains embedded amidst the forest glades and deep glens fed by sparking mountain rivulets that create an absorbing panoramic landscape. The picturesque terrain is a spectacle beyond belief, and it excites the sensory apparatus at one go.  The mountain fort at the top was a gift to brother Laxman by Lord Rama as the story goes and hence named Bandhavgarh (Bandhav = brother, Garh=Fort).  A large crowd of tribal and locals walk through the forest and negotiate the steep ascent to the fort during Ram Navmi and other Hindu festivals as an annual pilgrimage. On that day, the out-of-bound tiger reserve is open to the pious.

Sesh Shaiyya or Reclining Vishnu lies midway, a thankful respite for the weary pilgrims. While the fort complex is out of bounds for the tourists  Shesh Shaiyya is not. It is a fairy tale grove shaded by Jamun and Sal towering over an inert pool covered with moss and algae.

A twenty feet reclining idol of Lord Vishnu crowned by a multiheaded cobra lies beside the pool. Water trickles down like a minuscule fall from between thick ferns and grass creating a mesmerizing spectacle. This is the spot to be to realize the essence of this enchanting paradise.  Traces of vermillion, scattered flowers, and exhausted incense sticks indicate that the fort priests and tourists on tiger safari pray to the Lord on frequent visits. Hinduism is a colorful religion with ample freedom to pray with few restrictions.

Situated in Central India, Bandhavgarh National Park is ideal for tiger safari holidays. One needs to book permits and accommodations in advance. The park is closed during the monsoon from July to September end.

For booking holidays contact MP Tiger Safari Company: +91 8889469120

teetiger@hotmail.com       

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Read More Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve

Bandhavgarh Hidden Jewel of Central India

The peaks rise startlingly from the horizon as you drive towards Tala Village, an astounding view...and more has to come. Bandhavgarh is a land of surprises and a charismatic destination. An eerie feel hangs around, and chilly air of expectation runs down your spine, and your mind is in a state of fantasy. This is tiger land, India's primal forest home to many of these magnificent animals. 

Tiger

Encapsulating diverse habitats and amazing biodiversity the tiger reserve is also a National Park.  It is managed under the aegis of Project Tiger a GOI initiative. Situated in the remote confines of Central India or the State of Madhya Pradesh the tiger land keeps its promise. Expect a safari exciting and soul-stirring as never before experienced in the hinterlands of the long-stretching Vindhyan Mountain Ranges.  

Bandhavgarh Meadow

The reserve comprises marshy grasslands, dense Sal and mixed forests, bamboo slopes, and rivers that twist and turn agonizingly all over this ecosystem eventually draining out of the park into chaotic human civilizations.  

Jeep Safari

The salient feature of this paradise is the steep cliffs covered with dense canopy scarred with scarps and protruding spurs at many places. In between the cliffs, the safari vehicles move steeply uphill and then slide tortuously downhill in between the deep glens. The drive is strenuous with bumps and jerks, and negotiating sharp bends on the incline and slippery slopes tests the driver's skill no end.  

All this makes the safari exciting especially whence you climb up the hill at literally an obtuse angle. A chance meeting with a tiger and other exciting animals like the leopard, gaur, sloth bear, and wild dog is always on cards to keep the adrenalin pumping and the heart missing a few beats.  

Bandhavgarh Mountain

From the top of the mountains, the panoramic grandeur unfolds. The landscape changes correspondingly as the angle of view changes and your gaze is mesmerized. The tree tops, marshy grasslands, and surrounding cliffs with rivulets and pathways snaking in between are a sight to wonder at from the dizzy heights.       

A tiger safari at Bandhavgarh is truly stupefying and thrilling on an open jeep. The sightings of tigers and other megafauna are very high in this little paradise and tourists flock around the open season to film and photograph these amazing creatures, some of which are endangered and nearly on the verge of extinction. 

Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve

Whence you enter the park from the Tala Gate across the meadows the steep cliff encapsulating the fort wall on the ascent and the Ram Janki Temple accords an exotic view. The distance plays around with dimensions and the ancient temple appears as a tiny speck.  

In midst of pristine forests, the telltale signs of human architecture is an esoteric experience. The stone wall stretches long for more than a mile and was used to prevent intrusion into the Gond Fort at the height of 800 MSL. This hill is named after the reserve and is the tallest.  

In the Tala Zone at Sesh Shaiyya or reclining Vishnu time stands absolutely still. After an unnerving climb up the hill, the twenty feet idol lying adjacent to an ancient pool shaded by a grove is a mesmerizing sight. The grove shelters the pool and the idol trickles like a misty curtain flowing down the walls covered with ferns and shrubs. The curtain of tiny falls literally sliding down towards the idol through eroded walls covered with a slippery carpet of moss and lichens extols the creativity of ancient tribes it enhances the age of the edifice which could be around two thousand years ago. The situation is a fairy tale setting, and cool brisk air from the grove invites slumber even in the torturous heat of the summer.   

Silence and serenity prevail transporting you back in time, a moment whence a troupe of soldiers came to rest here before climbing up to the fort. The intruding roar of the tiger awakens you from a fantasy daydream and fetches you back into the reality of the contemporary. 

The climb up to the fort passes through numerous horse shelters, courtrooms, and caves entrenched in the mountain wall. The grand stone arch after a strenuous climb is welcoming, from here you enter the fort complex. The fort itself is in ruins but the zoomorphic idols of Lord Vishnu are spectacular and well-preserved. So are the huge reservoirs meant to sustain the large entourage of soldiers and royal households.    

Langur Monkey

The large vacant spaces also contain numerous ancient architects in form of run-down structures. On one end as you climb up, the temple manned by old priests sits isolated but accords a magnificent view of the whole reserve.  

The whole park is an ecosystem that supports more than fifty tigers and they can be seen during the safari in the tourism zones. Herds of Gaur or bison and chital can be seen in the company of langur monkeys, sambar, and the peacock in the grasslands. 

Hindu Priest

The leopard is elusive but is seen often along with the sloth bear and the wild dog. Barking deer and saunders of wild boar are often encountered near the waterholes. In open areas herds of Nilgai antelope can be seen peacefully grazing in the grasslands. 

Tiger safaris are organized during the day and in the evening. Tourists can also book full-day safaris especially wildlife photographers.  

The best way to reach Bandhavgarh tiger park is via Jabalpur Airport which is a four hours drive, and also from Kanha Nationa Park which is a more five hour's drive. Overseas visitors should book the holiday through the tour operators and opt for the jungle plan which is all-inclusive.