Tiger Safari at Bandhavgarh And The Ancient Structures

Bandhavgarh National Park is known for its enchanting wilderness, and the tigers. But many people have no inclination toward ancient idols cut from the rock and the inscriptions on the stone in the dense confines of the park. The most amazing ancient structures are the Bandhavgarh Fort complex and the idols of Lord Vishnu in zoomorphic forms. The original structures were built by the Gonds that were subject to further additions by many dynasties that came to rule here.

Tiger Safari at Bandhavgarh

The fort and its surroundings in the dense forests were ruled by tigers and humans from time immemorial but the structures made by the Gond civilization date back 2000 years. Gonds were worshippers of lord Vishnu and other Hindu deities. On the top of the mountain, one will find idols of zoomorphic avatars of Lord Vishnu. It is said that the fort was gifted to brother Laxman by Lord Rama when he visited Bandhavgarh forests in exile.   

The other structure that was carved in stones are courts, horse stables, caves, and rooms and you will see stone wall now in ruins around Bandhavgarh Hill. There are thirty-two steep cliffs and tabletop mountains at Bandhavgarh. The terrain is characterized by steep cliffs deep glens and marshy grasslands interspersed by rivulets.

Since the fort is out of bounds for tourism tourists cannot visit the fort complex. They can go up to the Sesha Shaiyya or reclining Vishnu.  Sesh Shaiyya is a beautiful spot where you can see the twenty feet idols of Lord Vishnu in a reclining position.  The idol is crowned by the heads of the cobra and the whole structure is covered in microscopic algae, fungi, and lichens. Sesh Shaiyya is one of the most beautiful spots in the tiger reserve and must visit. Those who are wishing to see the ancient structures must go for a tiger safari at Tala in Bandhavgarh.   

Rich in the wilderness the park is home to tigers, leopards, wild dogs, sloth bears, bison, Nilgai, barking deer, four-horned deer, wild boar, and monkeys. It is home to more than 250 birds including the winter migrants.

For an exciting tiger safari at Bandhavgarh, a safari permit is required. So book the safari in advance as the entry of vehicles is limited. Safari can be booked online at MPOnline Portal. You can also ask the tour operators to book a safari for you. They are in the know-how of the best zones in the National Park for you to visit.

You can best reach Bandhavgarh from Jabalpur Airport at 175 km. The overnight train is also available from New Delhi to Umaria which is at a distance of 32 km from Tala Township. Overnight trains from Mumbai and Kolkata ply to Jabalpur in MP.          

Bandhavgarh: Down The Memory Lane on The Mountain Top

Kuttappan, Nair, Vithal, Shukla, and Thakur all names come alive when reminiscence strikes. On my first visit to Bandhavgarh National Park and a Tiger Reserve, I was hooked. "This is it!"I said to myself. Since then an nth number of visits have followed, and continue till this day. The characters named here were associates that turned the dream safaris into a reality in the tiger land.   

Whence you get the first glimpse of the mountains driving on the road to Tala from Umaria you feel like paradise is right here. It is!

Bandhavgarh is more than a tiger reserve, it is a hill resort and cradle of an ancient tribal civilization. The numerous telltale signs of ancient India, forts, caves shelters, idols, and temples all spring a surprise as you journey into the wilderness overgrown with herbs and shrubs, tall trees, and grass. 

Nevertheless, a perfect ecosystem, the mountain rivers add to the sheen and glamour of this panoramic wilderness in remote India. The drive in the undulating terrain created by geological upheaval from the day the Earth was born has created an amazing tapestry that mesmerizes at very first sight. The inaccessible heights remain as they were since the time of creation chiseled to perfection - the shapes and size - by indomitable forces of nature.   

Romance is instant, the hustle and bustle of a big town are left behind once you reach the park confines and absolute calm prevails in this amazing wilderness home of enchanting animals and birds. 

Reclining Vishnu

Whence you visit the structures in the park especially Shesh Shaiyya time comes to an absolute halt. The only living element besides you is the cool mountain breeze that brushes past you gently. The picturesque spot is a visit to witness esoteric emblems that have been seamlessly inserted into the surroundings such as to create oneness with nature. Modern architecture fails in this respect.  The grove is a blessing for the parched with aching limbs, and I lie down on the parapet of the encircling wall and fall in deep reverie. 

What do you do whence you come across the esoteric? 

You simply imbibe in absolute silence to enable your sensory apparatus to grasp and digest. Almost fairy tale atmosphere prevails at Sesh Shaiyya, the resting place of Lord Vishnu where he sleeps as a twenty feet reclining idol carved out of igneous rocks. Lying listlessly, the structure crowned with Sesh Nag (Cobra) is frozen in time awaiting resurrection perhaps. Nevertheless, fed by the mountain river Charanganga the magical lair comprises an algae-layered pond and fern-covered rocks on the mountainside. Lichens, fungi, and algae create a colorful mosaic in the surroundings like an artistic creation. The patterns on the rocks and the idol placed amidst the tropical greenery simply spellbind. The place dwells in an environment of absolute tranquility and peace. 

The only buzz of activity is the humming of the birds and bees and sometimes an occasional blood-curdling roar of the tiger. Then silence prevails...you can imagine the hoofs of horses as soldiers climb the tortuous ascent on the way to the fort at the top of the mountain. The cool ambiance of the place and water all around provided succor to tired soldiers returning from internecine wars. 

When you climb the fort, the World fades into a distance and everything appears alien till you reach the idol at the precarious edge of the mountain. The Idol looms large on the edge of the mountain weathering the winds. One look and then you realize that the World is real and ruled by celestial entities. Imagine!    

All alone, amidst the tall grass and azure blue sky above, the pathway seems to be the road to Nirvana. Be careful, tigers and leopards lurk around the bushes. My nerves rattle, and my mind is in delusion, but I keep pumping up ahead in the rising heat. I am searching for my photographer friend. And there she is a lady from the distant land of Germany.

The fort is in shambles with broken walls as evidence but the large reservoirs created more than 2000 years back still survive. So does the temple dedicated to Ram, Janki, and Laxman. The place is littered with broken structures...they are nevertheless captivating religious artifacts...Hinduism is a colorful religion and so are the paraphernalia and the rituals associated with the practice. It is all evident here at the top of Bandhavgarh Mountain on the premises of the ancient fort.

A gift to brother Laxman by Lord Ram an incarnation of Lord Vishnu, the fort is aptly named as such (Bandhav = brother, Garh = Fort). A fort for brother Laxman and true to the heavenly stature in essence the fort is very much alive. A pujari (Hindu Priest) walks for eleven kilometers through the absolute wilderness to pray in the land of the tiger. Stoic, unruffled by the big cats, snakes, and predators he has been conducting prayers ever since the erstwhile Maharajah of Rewa inducted him into the holy service. 

Zoomorphic idols of Lord Vishnu in various animal avatars are the object of extreme intrigue for the uninitiated and are not familiar with Hinduism's existential philosophy. The vast expanse of the place makes you feel tiny like a spec in the Universe. An eagle flying overhead its call ricocheting across steep cliffs creates a picture of heaven as we climb down the mountain.

*Note the fort is out of bounds now but you can drive up to reclining Vishnu. You will need a safari permit for Tala Range. Bandhavgarh is accessible by four hours drive from Jabalpur Airport in Central India or the State of Madhya Pradesh.                               

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Uday is a blogger and offers Seo + Content For Digital Marketing Services. 

He teaches digital marketing (SEO) in Jabalpur.

He freelances as a naturalist/birder at Kanha National Park. He loves to write on travel. 

He can be contacted at: 

pateluday90@hotmail.com

09755089323                 

Bandhavgarh Hidden Jewel of Central India

The peaks rise startlingly from the horizon as you drive towards Tala Village, an astounding view...and more has to come. Bandhavgarh is a land of surprises and a charismatic destination. An eerie feel hangs around, and chilly air of expectation runs down your spine, and your mind is in a state of fantasy. This is tiger land, India's primal forest home to many of these magnificent animals. 

Tiger

Encapsulating diverse habitats and amazing biodiversity the tiger reserve is also a National Park.  It is managed under the aegis of Project Tiger a GOI initiative. Situated in the remote confines of Central India or the State of Madhya Pradesh the tiger land keeps its promise. Expect a safari exciting and soul-stirring as never before experienced in the hinterlands of the long-stretching Vindhyan Mountain Ranges.  

Bandhavgarh Meadow

The reserve comprises marshy grasslands, dense Sal and mixed forests, bamboo slopes, and rivers that twist and turn agonizingly all over this ecosystem eventually draining out of the park into chaotic human civilizations.  

Jeep Safari

The salient feature of this paradise is the steep cliffs covered with dense canopy scarred with scarps and protruding spurs at many places. In between the cliffs, the safari vehicles move steeply uphill and then slide tortuously downhill in between the deep glens. The drive is strenuous with bumps and jerks, and negotiating sharp bends on the incline and slippery slopes tests the driver's skill no end.  

All this makes the safari exciting especially whence you climb up the hill at literally an obtuse angle. A chance meeting with a tiger and other exciting animals like the leopard, gaur, sloth bear, and wild dog is always on cards to keep the adrenalin pumping and the heart missing a few beats.  

Bandhavgarh Mountain

From the top of the mountains, the panoramic grandeur unfolds. The landscape changes correspondingly as the angle of view changes and your gaze is mesmerized. The tree tops, marshy grasslands, and surrounding cliffs with rivulets and pathways snaking in between are a sight to wonder at from the dizzy heights.       

A tiger safari at Bandhavgarh is truly stupefying and thrilling on an open jeep. The sightings of tigers and other megafauna are very high in this little paradise and tourists flock around the open season to film and photograph these amazing creatures, some of which are endangered and nearly on the verge of extinction. 

Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve

Whence you enter the park from the Tala Gate across the meadows the steep cliff encapsulating the fort wall on the ascent and the Ram Janki Temple accords an exotic view. The distance plays around with dimensions and the ancient temple appears as a tiny speck.  

In midst of pristine forests, the telltale signs of human architecture is an esoteric experience. The stone wall stretches long for more than a mile and was used to prevent intrusion into the Gond Fort at the height of 800 MSL. This hill is named after the reserve and is the tallest.  

In the Tala Zone at Sesh Shaiyya or reclining Vishnu time stands absolutely still. After an unnerving climb up the hill, the twenty feet idol lying adjacent to an ancient pool shaded by a grove is a mesmerizing sight. The grove shelters the pool and the idol trickles like a misty curtain flowing down the walls covered with ferns and shrubs. The curtain of tiny falls literally sliding down towards the idol through eroded walls covered with a slippery carpet of moss and lichens extols the creativity of ancient tribes it enhances the age of the edifice which could be around two thousand years ago. The situation is a fairy tale setting, and cool brisk air from the grove invites slumber even in the torturous heat of the summer.   

Silence and serenity prevail transporting you back in time, a moment whence a troupe of soldiers came to rest here before climbing up to the fort. The intruding roar of the tiger awakens you from a fantasy daydream and fetches you back into the reality of the contemporary. 

The climb up to the fort passes through numerous horse shelters, courtrooms, and caves entrenched in the mountain wall. The grand stone arch after a strenuous climb is welcoming, from here you enter the fort complex. The fort itself is in ruins but the zoomorphic idols of Lord Vishnu are spectacular and well-preserved. So are the huge reservoirs meant to sustain the large entourage of soldiers and royal households.    

Langur Monkey

The large vacant spaces also contain numerous ancient architects in form of run-down structures. On one end as you climb up, the temple manned by old priests sits isolated but accords a magnificent view of the whole reserve.  

The whole park is an ecosystem that supports more than fifty tigers and they can be seen during the safari in the tourism zones. Herds of Gaur or bison and chital can be seen in the company of langur monkeys, sambar, and the peacock in the grasslands. 

Hindu Priest

The leopard is elusive but is seen often along with the sloth bear and the wild dog. Barking deer and saunders of wild boar are often encountered near the waterholes. In open areas herds of Nilgai antelope can be seen peacefully grazing in the grasslands. 

Tiger safaris are organized during the day and in the evening. Tourists can also book full-day safaris especially wildlife photographers.  

The best way to reach Bandhavgarh tiger park is via Jabalpur Airport which is a four hours drive, and also from Kanha Nationa Park which is a more five hour's drive. Overseas visitors should book the holiday through the tour operators and opt for the jungle plan which is all-inclusive.  

Bandhavgarh National Park - Ruins of The Past

Situated in the cradle of  the Vindhya Hills a chain of mountains that lie to the North of India.  The park is situated in Umaria District of Madhya Pradesh. The erstwhile hunting reserve of Maharajahs of Rewa is now a protected area. 

Apart from dense tiger forests the reserve boats of ancient ruins that date twenty centuries back in history. The ruins belong to ruling Hindu Kings who left their marks on the mountainous tract. The park is home to many animals especially the Bengal Tiger that rules the ruins and the forests. Being a core of protected area no human habitation is allowed anymore.    

The ruins are in shape of idols, statues, caves, horse shelters, temples and gates. The fort lies atop the Bandhavgarh Mountain at 800 MSL. Now in rums some elements are still intact. The unique feature of the fort in ruin is the zoo-morphic statues of Lord Vishnu. Scattered along the tableau are statues of Visnu as Varah, Matsya and Sinh avatar. The Ram Janki Temples lies on the edge of the plateau overlooking the magnificent reserve.    

Hindu Temple

On the ascent to the fort lies Sesh Shaiyya or sleeping idol of Lord Vishnu on edge of the pool. Esoteric and fairy land like the pool is man made and ancient. Ferns and small shrubs decorate the surroundings creating a cool precinct that offered succor and shelter to thirsty and exhausted soldiers of yore. 

Fort Entrance

There are ruins all over and many can be seen on tiger safari at Bandhavgarh. The wildlife is enchanting and consists of tiger, leopard, sloth bear, dhole, deer, and bison. The number of hillocks create a mesmerizing topography making the park one of the most picturesque in India. 

Fort Ruins

In order to reach the destination one needs to drive 170 km from Jabalpur airport & rail head. Other ways of reaching Bandhavgarh are by rail. An overnight train halts at Umaria station 32 km from the park. The road network is well connected. 

Tiger

There are many hotels in Bandhavgarh for accommodation near by in the buffer zone. They conform to different grades like luxury, deluxe, five star and budget. Rest houses are also available for stay but booking is accorded only to Government Officials.  

Reclining Vishnu

Prior booking of safaris are advisable as they are booked well in advance. The bookings can be made at  MP Online Portal. The hotels and resorts cane be booked using the websites.

   Images by Teerath Singh

Of Indian Architecture: Symmetry & Geometry

The geometry and symmetry in construction are as a result of extreme planning, conceptualization of design and a startling trilogy of creativity included. Indian architecture incorporates diverse elements beside simple lines and curvatures. Cosmic elements, religious symbols, voluptuous damsels, floral motifs; structural grandeur, diverse cultural impacts all encompassing assimilation into the final product that has resulted in landmark monuments many of which are of World fame while some pop up as surprise. 

This is what an article in MSN India speaks of. In a changed language I describe in a less fluent language the monumental structures in my blog. 

 Breathtaking Example of Indian Masonry:

 Taj Mahal

 

It is not only a magnanimous symbol of love, the intricate carving, amazing patterns, floral motifs, all amidst unfettered symmetry that is simply astounding. This is Moghul Architecture at its best in India.       

Nicke James - Taj at Agra

Ranakpur - Jain Temples

The Chaturmukha Temple exhibits astounding symmetry in amalgamation of spiritual numbers into intricate geometrical patterns. The temple dedicated to Lord Adinath makes visible the idol from any point inside the structure due to placement of 1000 plus pillars typical of Western Indian Architecture. Typical to this style are the spokes on ceilings interspersed with ornate motifs and dancing Apsaras. These features are much suggestive of colors and freedom of expression of living in India.  

Sun Temple Modhera 

The structure comprises of three elements integrated to perfection. The idol has been desecrated by the plunderer Mahmud Gazhni long  time back. The step well or Surya Kund is intricately carved with shrines on each step leading to the water. The vivid geometrical pattern forming equilateral triangle is the striking feature of this structure. The many pillared (52) Sabha Gruh is another element that has cosmic relevance and extols the Hindu calender.       

Shaniwar Wada Palace 

The seat of Peshwa Rulers, this palace in Pune has architecture with a unique design. The attractive feature is the Hazari Karanje or thousand jet fountain. The garden is also beautifully manicured and comprises of geometrical patterns.  

City Palace Udaipur 

This is a large complex with many palatial elements. In fact a series of palaces are assimilated in the larger complex. The architecture is amalgamation of  Mughal, Rajasthani, Chinese and European Styles. A museum of fine art the palace comprises of intricately carved cupolas, balconies and towers part of the darbar hall, temples and living quarters of the Royals.  

Ellora Caves  Aurangabad 

The rock cut caves exhibit beautifully done murals and carvings depicted three religions namely Hinduism, Jainism and Buddhism. 

Veer Narayana Temple Belvadi 

The architecture was named after the Hoysala Rulers who built many temples. These were either one, two or three shrines while a few were multi-shrines. The ceiling panels are carved with celestial figures and soldiers.

Red Fort - New Delhi   

Built entirely of red sand stone is a later date Mughal Architecture and displays both symmetrical and asymmetrical patterns. The former can be seen at Diwan-E-Aam and Rang Mahal while the walls of the fort exhibit the latter style.

Chand Baori - Abhaneri 

The thirteen story deep step well in Rajasthan is one of the largest in the World. The equilateral triangles formed on the steps are amazing besides the other geometrical forms are rhombus and diagonal lines. The thousand year old structure was the main source of water to local inhabitants. 

Bhoganandeeshwara Temple - Nandi Hills 

The monolithic stone pillars convey symmetry typical to Dravidian Style of Architecture in Southern India. Dedicated to Lord Shiva it is most revered edifice built around 9 Century AD. 

Rani Ki Vav - Patan - Gujarat

An excellent example of Gujarat's Subterranean Architecture it is an inverted temple besides being a step well. The idol of Lord Vishnu is visible from many angles of the seven layered stairs. The stairs are intricately carved with floral motifs and incarnation of Hindu deities.

Ancient Indian Edifices

Hawa Mahal Rajasthan

Jantar Mantar - Delhi & Jaipur 

These are two structures built by Raja Jaisingh to calculate many celestial and solar phenomena and activities. These observatories were used to predict eclipses and calculate various event using complex instruments (structures) formed using simple geometrical lines.    

The MSN Article