A Trip to Tiger Heaven called Bandhavgarh

Drive from Jabalpur

Driving through the wonderful Jabalpur-Shahpura highway is a picturesque treat to the eyes and the soul. Tree-lined and with not much traffic you get a holiday feel while driving. Yes, a holiday mood sets the mind right, and brings joy and peace, and so does this ride on a smooth road.  The Jabalpur-Shahpura Highway (70km) leads to Ghagua Fossil Park, a land containing fossils dating back 60 million years. The fossils are plant-based and in a perfect state of preservation, a short halt is good for freshening up, and for a visit to the museum and exploring the fossils. 

All through the drive, green fields, rustic hamlets, and tabletop mountains enhance your pleasure. In many places, the tree-lined forests are reminders of days whence the whole area was densely forested. Nevertheless, it is one of the best ways of reaching Bandhavgarh National Park situated in Madhya Pradesh. 

Leopard at Bandhavgarh

Shahpura to Umaria 

The drive from Shahpura to Umaria is palpable, a space without much urbanity in the picture. The isolated villages surrounded by green fields with ubiquitous pole fences full of cattle, and a makeshift cattle yard in most of the larger houses take you back to an earlier period when the time stood still as the urbanity had not yet made inroads. A bit paradoxical to call the drive into the interiors frozen in time nevertheless the indolent lifestyle cannot be experienced in the busy urbanity of the country.

Except for the villages and small townships, the rest of the 82 km drive is through the forests. The drive literally delivers a picture of what awaits upon reaching the holiday destination.  The townships offer a hint of time changing albeit at a snail’s pace. Normally dusty, with clusters of ill-designed and ill-planned antiquated thatched or tiled roof houses that smack of urbanity slowly making inroads, they still appear to be out of sync with modern agglomerations in India. 

Bandhavgarh

You can make a refreshing stop at a small but quaint MPTDC Resorts before Shahpura. It serves fresh snacks like idli, poha, and sandwiches along with hot chai or coffee. My bet was on sizzling hot pakoras served with chutney after eons of wait. If you are not hungry buy a packet of chips or peanuts and a cola to while away the time. The mountain landscape and a large man-made reservoir capped by a broad vista of tall trees on the road create picturesque settings for tired travelers.

Much cheaper options are the tea stalls at Shahpura the places sans the toilets are right on the street but some of them sell fresh hot vegetable pakoras and samosa that can make your day. Near the forest office, a diversion leads to Umaria which is at a distance of 50 km. From Umaria, the drive to Tala is 32 km most of it through the outskirts of the National Park.         

The whole drive is reminiscent of holiday tours when I was young in the seventies, the countryside was a lot greener due to dense forest patches all along the way. The complete lack of urbanity, metal roads, and quaint but primitive dwellings full of shy rustic inhabitants smacked of dismal backwardness to tourists in small cars that were popular in those days. The vehicles available with the taxi services in those days were Fiat and the rugged Ambassadors. In spite of the shock absorbers, the automobiles skidded and rebounded mercilessly on the unkempt metal pathways breaking every bone in the body. The noise inside the cars was of a terrifying decibel, and it corresponded with the jumps and bumps that we frequently encountered. The drive-by any means in sedans and luxury cars also used as taxis are much more enjoyable these days.    

Some modern amenities like cold beverages, basic medicines, and FMCG products are available in the roadside villages nowadays. The navigation through these townships is usually on a single narrow metal road. One has to be cautious driving through cow-littered roads and clusters of shops and houses. One element that I strive to see is the gaudy yellow stripped statues of tigers usually made of clay near the roadsides. Indians venerate all life forms, and the big cat holds a significant place in the Hindu pantheon. Ascribed the role of a vehicle for the Goddess, the idols refer to a period whence the tigers were everywhere in India. The figures are a sad reminder of what we practice alongside the preaching.

As you cross over the hamlets, the absence of cow dung and trash is a visible relief after a suffocating intersection. Before you reach Umaria, a jungle road leads to an ancient temple chiseled out of igneous rock which I have visited once. Ensconced in an enchanting grove surrounded by forests the temple is a pretty sight. It dates back to the 10th Century built perhaps by the Culchuris, the same ruling dynasty that built the Khajuraho Temples.           

After a short visit, you drive on to reach the Umaria Town, HQ of Umaria District in Madhya Pradesh. The Bandhavgarh FD Office is situated in this town. Preferred for consumer purchases, the town is cluttered and crowded at most junctions, it is a big disappointment for holidaymakers but then you get some modern consumables here. Make necessary purchases at Umaria before embarking to Tala township on the outskirts of Bandhavgarh National Park.  Use ATM or banking facilities if required. Umaria is a railhead and those who travel by rail alight here. The town is well connected by busses that ply on the road network and by the trains. Taxi services for long-distance travel are also available here. 

Thankfully, a side road with less traffic leads to the Tala - Manpur Road. Tala is a micro township situated at the doorstep of the tiger reserve. The 32 km drive is pleasant green and as usual, comprises humanity and fields.  The forests become apparent from Dhamokhar Range (11km) which is now included in the buffer zone for safari. Successful conservation measures have created a corridor for big cats of Bandhavgarh, and sighting does take place here. So drive slowly from here onwards since your safari has begun. Keep an eye on the roadside forests to sight a tiger or a sambar deer. After the local extinction, 50 Gaur have been relocated here and they can now be seen at Bhadrashila a small reservoir again. These massive beasts although gentle can be ferocious when disturbed so drive past if you come across them. 

From here onwards you get a glimpse of the steep cliffs and tabletop mountains that are a characteristic feature of this wild heaven. The drive turns into an exotic experience with an aura of grandeur cast by the cliffs. There are 32 steep cliffs that are spread across the reserve. They create an impression of magnificence as you drive through them during the excursions in the core. 

As you drive on towards the township, on the right is the MP Forest Rest House - the only accommodation years back whence tourism was at a nascent stage. It is reserved for officials and VIP Guests now. A little ahead, the township comprising of shops, and cluttered dwellings greet you. Old isolated huts suffocatingly squeezed now in between more stylish shops, and small restaurants selling various goods, You will overtake the Maharani Kothi, the Royal dwelling of erstwhile HH Queen of Rewa Estate. Part of the property has been converted to a resort and is much visited. 

The Tala Road comprises art shops, offices, a few budget guest houses, and a café besides small-time joints that sell chai and samosa. One of them was my favorite for the morning breakfast, they serve hot samosa and steaming strong cuppa chai.  During the stay, you can visit the Malaya Handicraft shop and café run by a lady from Ahmedabad -  Neelam Varma. The exhibit houses many traditional arts and crafts pieces made from all over India. This is a colorful collection of crafts that is priced reasonably and can be carried back home as a memoir or as a gift. Neelam also manages a small cafe that serves breakfast on a prior order.  

Tala Gate is the entrance to the Tala Zone of the park for excursions. If you have not booked a safari permit for Bandhavgarh then you book it here. Twenty percent of the park's core area is reserved for tourism. Tourism is also organized in the buffer. Each tourism zone has a separate entrance.     

Most of the hotels and resorts are situated near the Tala township while some are placed further in different locations. It is advisable to book the safari permits and the hotel accommodations much in advance. 

Jeep Safari

Bandhavgarh resorts and hotels offer various packages for a stay that range from budget to super luxurious. The best is to visit websites on the net and discover one that suits your style and the pocket.

Some of the accommodations here are a treat and can make your holiday a big success but please do not expect low prices since managing properties and serving food in remote locations requires a lot of resources. Choose a place with classic traditional interiors and exteriors away from Tala to experience local surroundings and architecture these properties nevertheless are equipped with all modern amenities and some offer great service.

If you wish to stay near Tala the Tiger Den is best. I love to stay at this resort for the great service and food. It is well structured with a manicured garden hence the outside noise does not make inroads. 

For tiger safari, an extended stay of a week or more is recommended for wildlife enthusiasts, professional photographers, and filmmakers.  Holidaymakers usually stay for 2 or 3 days. 

Jabalpur Airport and Railway Station are well connected with Mumbai, Kolkatta, Bangalore, Chennai, Hyderabad, and some other destinations. The drive to Bandhavgarh is four hours via Shahpura-Umaria Highway.  

================================================

Uday is a blogger and offers Seo + Content For Digital Marketing Services. 

He teaches digital marketing (SEO) in Jabalpur.

He freelances as a naturalist/birder at Kanha National Park. He loves to write about travel. 

He can be contacted at: 

pateluday90@hotmail.com

09755089323                 

  

Sunderbans Quintessential Tiger Country

Divided between India and Bangladesh the estuary is called as Sunderbans on both sides. It is an amazing mix of land and aquatic habitats where the tides rule the roots. The emerging aerobic roots are the highlight of this ecosystem that gets full of slush in low and is completely submerged on high tide. 

In Hindi Sunderban means beautiful mangrove forests, beautiful yes but one of the most difficult terrains on Earth. Life here is a tough prospect, the delta that eventually merges into the Indian Ocean. Slush, poodles emerging aerobic roots like daggers and thick canopy always hamper movement but offers great camouflage to the predators be they the tiger or the deadly salt water crocodile.     

Bengal Tiger

The term Bengal tiger originated here. The mangrove forests belong to West Bengal State of India and hence their proliferation first noticed here named then after the State. This happened during the rule of British in undivided India. 

Today more than two hundred tigers survive in this delta a confluence of three rivers namely Ganges, Meghna and Brahmaputra. These are the lifeline of this ecosystem and eventually merge into the sea. 

Adapting to ever changing environment is a constant struggle and hardship especially for the tigers. Though the incidence of man eating is higher here not reason is attributed to the phenomenon. This could be due to the intrusion of humans in the thickets for homey collection and fishes which invites attack due to closer presence of the big cats while many attribute it to salt water. Well no exact reason has been found out but nevertheless intrusion is being prevented and steps are being taken to ameliorate. 

Sunderbans National Park is a protected area in Bengal and is also notified as tiger reserve and a biosphere reserve. Tourism is organized here in twenty percent of the area. Subject to rules and regulation the activity offers good chance of sighting big cats and large number of mammals and reptiles that live here. The reserve is home to a large of avian species and a paradise for birders. 

A miss-mesh aquatic system of rivers, creeks and wetlands the habitat is strikingly different from other tiger habitats in India. Four tourists the access point is Kolkutta the Capital of West Bengal from here two hours drive is required to reach the National Park. A cruise is an ideal way to explore this aquatic system. 

For wildlife enthusiasts the boat safari in Sunderbans is the only way to experience it.  There are many tour operators who organize the safari for visitors. The excursions can be booked online as well.        

Chambal River Tours

Bandits in the Hinterland

Stretching over a span of almost one thousand plus kilometers Chambal River is a tourist’s paradise. Once famous for killer bandits hiding unseen in the maze of the sandy dunes, this region was a frightening travel prospect in the past.  Horrifying tales of vengeance, vendetta, and loot emerged in Indian newspapers. The dreaded bandits killed many people every year. We read reports of over 400 people killed by just one bandit in cold blood purportedly carried out of vengeance.

Each criminal turned bandit had a sordid past of being victimized by higher caste landlords, family feuds, rape, loot, and plunder. Whether indulgence in cold-blooded murders of innocent had a backing of victimhood or was criminal indulgence out of instinct or bad company we could never find out as one tale after another emerged, of murders and dacoity unhindered. The news sent shivers in my spine albeit we were nowhere close to Chambal, but fear of ultras is always overpowering and frightening. Anyway, all that has been washed out, and the tourists can safely visit places of interest near the Chambal River.

Chambar River Tourism         

Pristine yet backward, this hinterland has been transformed miraculously thanks to the tourism and development that follows. The dacoits have receded into the annals of history, and no untoward incident with the tourists has taken place. Due credit is given to MPTDC or Madhya Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation for promoting tourism in remote confines of the state wherever a definite potential exists.  

A holiday at the confines of Chambal, a birding trip, or a boat ride is an enticing prospect for those who are fortunate enough to know about the destination. The destination is full of tourism potential and delivers a sound spiritual experience thanks to the time freeze, pristine splendor, and mysticism associated with the rivers like  Chambal.  

I have been to the river plenty of times on birding tours and the smells and the sounds of emptiness still linger in the convoluted labyrinths of my memory banks. The yonder blue sky, birds calling overhead, and ripples giving rise to tiny waves are what you will experience on a boat ride. Wait! There is much more to this riverine paradise untouched and unspoiled.  

For the readers, all I have to say is, do visit once!  

Boating at Chambal Quintessentially Romantic

Boating at Chambal is quintessentially romantic. The dull whirring of the motorboat engine surprisingly aligns with the aquatic ecosystem, the squeals of raptors and gulls skimming over the surface, and the turbid splash of Gangetic Dolphins sum up the moments you will encounter on a boat ride during the river tour.  The sounds are often missing but the prevailing silence is broken now and then creating an esoteric environment in the nowhere lands of remote India. The slow almost motionless ride on the placid waters is paradoxically an unforgotten adventure to be. But few tourists visit this region primarily for boat rides. The shores are frequented by ornithologists from overseas and their guides on long extended birding tours. The Chambal Lodge at Bah in UP specializes in bird-watching tours in the confines and organizes a boat ride at Chambal. The package is beyond the reach of most holidaymakers in India. The MPTDC facility at Dholepur attracts crowds interested in the boat rides. It is very economical but of short duration.

For the bird and wildlife enthusiasts, it is the land of the living for there is much happening in the space frozen back in time. For domestic tourists, the ride is a spiritual awakening after the long hardy days of a fast-paced life of material pursuits in the urban chaos.  

The river erupts every time a dolphin surfaces to breathe and dives back into the water in split seconds. A sudden surprising event the ornithologists await eagerly, they have come to watch the dolphins, gharials, muggers, and turtles besides wild animals at the shore and a plethora of birds in the sky. The targeted species are the Indian Skimmer, raptors, gulls, sand larks, cranes, and owls that reside in the cryptic crevices of the steep cliffs on the shores.   

From the shore, the river appears quite welcoming to visitors on a bright sunny day. In the winter, the fog creates an uninviting almost life-threatening environment, and only the brave alight the boat for a ride in zero visibility. The braves are birders like us, always etching to enhance their experience besides the checklist. But as time goes past, the river with its turbulent history and temples on its shores will be flooded with holidaymakers. In a heavily populated country, the river and the sand dunes in the hinterland offer the feel of a sparsely populated environment - a much-wanted escape.

Stay at Chambal Lodge at Bah in UP

Our stay at Chambal Lodge has been most pleasing the property is primarily visited by overseas birding enthusiasts. The rustic environment and local food invite them to stay longer.  The lodge has been created by converting an old Kothi or Indian noble house, the distinct architecture creates a unique experience during the day.  

Our stay has been usually overnight. I would drive my group from Agra post a visit to the Taj Mahal and Fatehpur Sikri a day earlier. The drive on the luxury bus halts at many places for local bird watch but even after these hiccups, we manage to reach Bah by lunchtime. The evenings are reserved for local birding in the company of the lodge naturalist which is then followed by dinner and sound sleep. 

The motorboat ride for the group is organized on the shore 22 km further. This is the best part of the tour and we spot all that is described above.  From here we move on towards Nainital in Uttarakhand further North.  

Chambal Factfile 

The waterbody cuts across three large states of India from its origin at Janapav in Mohw in MP to submergence in the Yamuna in Uttar Pradesh after flowing through the State of Rajasthan.  The long river is one of the least polluted entities among the aquatic systems in India and yes the wildest. 

Chambal region is known for its faunal assemblage on the shores and in the sandbars in between, two crocodile species, Gharial and marsh crocodiles, Ganges Dolphin, number of turtles, fish, and reptiles. This is a tourist’s paradise for sure and yet few visit the remote confines of the river famous for boat tours and wildlife. 

Most of the visitors to this paradise which has been notified as a sanctuary are from foreign lands, they are keen birders. The assemblage of avian species is as impressive as the wild animals on the shores.

Unique Riverine Ecosystem

The dunes,  shores, and flowing waters all combine to form an impressive spectacle and are home to a vast number of avian species. The targeted bird is of course the Indian Skimmer which arrives to nest here but other species do not lack in charm. The sand lark, painted stork, Bonelli’s eagle, osprey, wooly necked stork, chestnut bellied sand grouse, Indian eagle owl, bar-headed geese, river tern, black-bellied tern, Brahminy Duck, sarus cranes, are few stars that enamor bird enthusiasts.      

You can see a lone hyena, sloth bear, otters, monitor lizard, jungle cat, wolf, occasional leopard, and jackal to name a few animals that inhabit the salient confines of this hinterland. The boat ride on Chambal is a unique experience in a country that comprises heavily populated regions and has entered the rat race. Nearing the confines of this pristine river is a transformation from the maddening crowd to serenity and peace. 

The hamlets and green fields create an amazing landscape that captivates tourists as they trudge towards the river confines. The assemblage of rocky mountains, sand dunes, and tall trees creates a tapestry that inspires and enhances the traveler's spiritual quest. The journey is a pure bundle of delights and a soul-stirring experience.  

The best way of observing the enchanting landscape of Chambal is on a motorboat tour. The looming sandy mountains, steep cliffs, small islets upon waters, green fields, quaint hamlets, and the surging waters of the river create a striking symmetry comprising of natural objects and painted by nature's brush using exotic colors from a robust palette. As the boat goes past, the small islets can be seen full of crocodiles and turtles. The clear water is like a mirage full of dainty aquatic creatures. The calm shores populated with rocks, sand, and the ubiquitous greenfields create a mesmerizing mosaic as the boat sails past.  

On the boat, you dwell in a surreal world an ethereal experience that is far removed from ours. Lost and stunned you wish the ride would continue forever. The boat is a motorboat and offers two and half hours of safari on the river. One of the best experiences in India is near Agra. From here the drive to the shore is 90 km. The enchanting Chambal river safari is organized by Chambal Lodge at Bah. Bah township is 70 km from Agra. Another option is at Dholepur in Rajasthan organized by MPSTDC this is less costly but a shorter ride and not so engrossing.  Dholepur is sixty kilometers from Agra. From New Delhi, the city of the Taj Mahal is two and half hours drive.           

============================

Uday is a blogger and writes on many topics. He blogs for many websites on wildlife/travel and hospitality. He also provides digital marketing with a focus on content and SEO. 

Travel to Bandhavgarh National Park in India

Bandhavgarh 

Situated in the Highlands of Central India Bandhavgarh is a paradise and tiger heaven. Wrongfully credited with sightings of the first and only white tiger in the World, the destination was contiguous with Sanjay National Park nearby in Sidhi District its rightful birthplace. 

This tiger reserve nevertheless is one of the most prolific breeding grounds for the big cats. It is a land of upheaval with a tortured terrain charismatic and densely forested. Bare-faced steep cliffs jut out of the earthen womb as a huge surprise. The lofty land mass creates deep glens and marshy plains where mountain rivulets invade...they are the lifeline of this diverse ecosystem that supports a myriad of lifeforms. The big cats prefer to hunt in the marshy grasslands which slows the movement of the herbivores. 

The National Park is ideal for animal and bird watching with a focus on the tigers. There are more than twenty-two mammals in the park beside a large number of reptilian species and birds. Ideal for wildlife holidays the destination also provides recreation and excitement on tour. Experiencing remote India has a calming effect with serenity and picture-perfect ambiance all around. The forests are home to peace and silence and the feeling is exhilarating.      

There is a little-known secret of this destination. An ancient civilization that thrived more than two thousand years back has left telltale marks in form of a fort, temples, pool, and numerous structures that confine themselves to the Tala Zone. Created by tribal and dynasties that came to rule now and then the architectural splendor is like a cynosure in the deep jungles devoid of modern urbanity. The fort is out of bounds for tourists but Sesh Shaiyya a reclining statue of Lord Vishnu is worth a visit. It is a small pool under a grove that contains the statue and numerous trickles emerge from the fern-infested slopes of the mountain that inundates. It is an esoteric experience in the place where the tigress often breeds. The River Charanganga emerges from this mountain and flows down to the plains creating a spectacular biodiversity hub. Time stands still in these confines as if frozen for eternity.            

                                                       Shesh Shhaiya

On the way to the park at Umaria about 32 km, you will also come across a 10th-century temple with the telltale architecture of ancient Central India. The access to reach Umaria and then Bandhavgarh is through Shahpura Township eighty km from Jabalpur Airport. The township is famous for plant fossils dating back 60 million years. The Fossil Park is situated on the way to Mandla and houses a museum or a collection of fossils along with a cafeteria. This is an ideal stop for freshening up and exploring the fossils. 

Jabalpur to Shahpura via Kundum drive is safe and pleasant along the scenic surrounds, teak forests, green fields, and quaint hamlets situated in between the mountains. The rows of dhabas or eateries provide hot snacks and meals to travelers. They are small and hygienic places some with toilet facilities to facilitate this long journey.      

Albeit there is not much need to make a stop nevertheless a cup of tea on the way is refreshing as you will encounter many little shops selling this wonderful brew. Most of the purchasing of essentials should be done at Jabalpur with flights connected to New Delhi, Hyderabad, Kolkata, and Mumbai. The railhead too is well connected.       

A short holiday of at least two nights should be organized, and permits should be booked in advance at MP Online Portal. Entry into the core zone is not permitted to those without a permit. There is a number of wildlife resorts for accommodation which you can book online. These accommodations provide you with good food as well which includes Intercontinental and Indian.

Safaris are conducted in the early morning period and then in the late evening. The excursions are conducted on open jeeps and canters. On-foot safari and off-roading are not possible at Bandhavgarh Reserve.  

For overseas visitors on tiger safari in Central India it is best to contact a tour operator. The packages available take care of all the bookings and journeys besides being economical. Group travel is the best means to travel on package tours organized for wildlife watching and birding.     

The package tours also include travel to Kanha National Park at a distance of five hours via Shahpura from Bandhavgarh. Kanha is a popular tiger reserve and much visited.  

Kanha National Park A Tiger Photographer's Delight!

The majestic beast lay stretched on the jungle road, rather half of its massive frame was on the path under the direct sun, and the rear end was under the shadow of the bush. Excited, I made a near fatal error and persisted. 

We had inched a shade too close to the massive beast as I delivered sermon to unassuming but nevertheless excited guests. I have never seen a tiger in my life one of the guest had informed me as we crossed over into the park. I wish for lot of photographs he had informed me on our first meeting at Courtyard House in Kanha. As a naturalist I expect you to deliver.      

And here was one lying right in front, unassuming and not at all threatening. Extolling the virtue of this majestic beast that lives in the myths and dreams alike, I was immersed in the dialogue and failed to notice the  twitch. The next whence I looked at him straight I noticed the warning....it was too late. 

It was all over in seconds. How could a beast so huge lift himself effortlessly and strike with lightning speed simply defies the law of gravitation? All I could see was a massive flash of yellow passing in front of the jeep and a deafening roar which still rings. The trepidation was instant and I was wobbly all over. 

"Reverse!"  

Fear writ large on my countenance! The tiger could have with one swift strike aimed right taken slabs of meat from my body. "A few kilos..." was all I could hear from the guide as pandemonium struck and we backed off. Or he could have wrenched my head off...I began to surmise the worst, pacified by the increasing distance from the beast in the bush. 

Some lovely images my guest who had never seen a tiger in his life remarked. "I would like some more photos! Totally out my senses I could but just stare at him. Unbelievable. He sat calm and composed a camera with a huge lens on his lap. 

Mukul Yadav

"I am sorry the big cat is not used to humans and the jeep. We will stay away." After some time we tried to return on the guest's insistence but the following jeeps warned us to stay away. Rightly so.  

I was totally unnerved. Well it happens you learn from mistake, never venture close to big cats without gauging their temperament. Like a gentlemen the beast did not harm me and was satisfied with the warning. For some time the new entrant charged on number of jeeps till he got used to the introduction. He had arrived from a non tourist zone and had not seen the jeep before. 

There is another similar incident but for later...    

With right guidance a photographer has ample opportunity to film or capture images of this magnificent predator at Kanha National Park. There are more than hundred tigers in the park. Before you begin to consider this animal as commoner loitering on the wilderness infested pathways you must know these big cats are most elusive. This is the character of the beast and requires lot of logic to track them. They are a challenge to your sensory apparatus and understanding of behaviour and your patience.   

Safari Jeeps

In the torturous terrain of deep glens, tall grass, a cryptic maze of vegetation and dense forests the big cats find easy camouflage and space to hide. Tiger tracking could often be frustrating experience for the guests and the naturalist as well. That is the character of this animal.  

Rare and endangered, it is flourishing at Kanha. Year on year visitor numbers are increasing on quest for the magnificent beast. A large chunk of wildlife photographers arrive here at the tiger reserve to capture award winning images. 

Male Tiger (Paul Fear)

Kanha's tiger  landscape is a paradise with panoramic settings, frequent tiger sightings and exciting adventures. Amazing variations in light conditions are available to enhance effects in all seasons with equally striking backdrops. The destination is well suited for photography and film making in India. The efforts have to be made within rules and regulations set for safaris on open jeeps in the park. For going beyond the rules for photography/film making one needs to have permission from MOEF India and PCCF of Madhya Pradesh. 

Courtyard House Kanha

The park is well endowed with tourism infrastructure and accessibility and accommodation is good. For booking tiger safari at Kanha you need to plan in advance. There is a limit to entry in the core zone of the park hence book permits in advance.   For tiger photography long lenses are not required but it is a matter of choice, in my opinion 300mm critical focusing lens with bean bag is enough. An option of full day safari is also available which though costly suits the lensmen very well. 
=======================================
Uday works as freelance naturalist at Kanha. He also provides SEO Service and website contents in English. Uday is a blogger and loves to write on tiger conservation, environment and wildlife in general. Uday teaches Internet Marketing in Summer Holidays.

Contact: pateluday90@hotmail.com
09755089323

Spending Interesting Time in Jabalpur

Jabalpur District 

Population: Approx 2 million 

The tropic of Capricorn transacts through Jabalpur in Madhya Pradesh. Situated in the Centre of India the agglomeration boasts of a unique profile albeit being the 26th largest town.

Madan Mahal Fort

Picturesque, small and sleepy is how this town was described in the past. It has a history that did not make much impact on the annals nevertheless the seat of Gond Kings who wagered with the Mughals, and it was part of the 1857 rebellion as well as the freedom struggle initiated by Mahatma Gandhi.

The game of snooker originated here at Narmada Club and the tables are still there. Famous actor Premnath was born here. The famous actor brothers Kishor Kumar, Anup Kumar, and Ashok Kumar studied in Robertson College.   

Historic Empire Building

T

Old Hotel in Jabalpur

Add caption

Dumna Reservoir

The city is more of a conduit for tiger reserves nearby. Hence many continue onwards without a halt. And miss boating at the splendorous Marble Rocks, Dhuandhar Falls, and Chousath Yogini with ancient idols. They also miss safari at Dumna Nature Reserve, picnic at Pariyat Lake, and Madan Mahal fortress that takes you back in time.

Dhuandhar Falls

Marble Rocks 

Narmada River at Jabalpur 

Visitors who stay for a long time can spend birding in its forest confines or simply laze around the magnificent Bargi Dam. More adventurous would ride a speed boat or take a tour on the cruise.

Much cherished by erstwhile British rulers for its cool weather, natural landscapes, and dense forests with plenty of game. They established operas, bakeries, and small hotels during their heydays for much-needed entertainment. A well-laid infrastructure in terms of defense manufacturing, cantonment, roads, railways, hospitals, and schools was their departing gift.

The opera houses turned into cinemas and entertained the dwellers for a long time. They still do but as more sophisticated E cinemas in the malls. Much before the business hotels arrived with their own desi flavors and modern facilities. Eating out at restaurants became a fashion followed by diving into chunky morsels of fast food joints.

Jabalpur City has a unique flavor and a truly cosmopolitan character. You cannot miss this if you stay for some time. Mega Bazaars and Malls have struck the lifestyle here as at the metros. The desi chaat, samosa, and masala dosa stalls abound for the more traditional. For the emerging jet sets reputed fast food joints, plush bars, pubs, and fine dining restaurants are the places. For those midway Indian Coffee Houses, ideal meeting places are spread all over.

Spas, gymnasiums for quick workouts, clubs, and whatnot are available. Must-visit places are the business hotels with star facilities, Anantara Pub, and the Clock Tower Chinese restaurant the hallmark of the town.

The fast-expanding city still retains vestiges of the colonial era, and age-old structures paint the town with a sober brush. Nevertheless, Jabalpur grows at its own pace retaining flavors old and new. On your next visit spend a day here.

More About Jabalpur City

Planning A Tiger Safari at Ranthambhore

Wildlife Tour Planning Ranthambore!

Before you do get some facts right. The safaris are organized in Ranthambore with the sole aim of giving you a wildlife experience. Wildlife experience or interpretation is part of your holiday at the tiger reserve in Rajasthan in India. During most of the excursions, tourists search for the tiger. This is the main focus of the holiday for most of the visitors except the birders who seek a more holistic experience. The birdlife is simply fantastic!

Tiger

Little attention is paid by others to the common animals in an ecosystem that has so much to offer. Hence when you visit the destination enjoy the sights and sounds of all the creatures and not only the big cats. During the game rounds, you can see the leopard, sloth bear, Nilgai antelope, sambar and spotted deer, hyena, jackal, wild boar, and langur monkeys.  

The destination has a number of ancient historical monuments some of which can be visited. The picturesque lakes create a magical splendor and offer thrilling sights of animals and the tigers that hunt there.    

The park organizes two safaris one in the early morning and another around three in the afternoon. These have to be booked in advance. The park is divided into various tourism zones which have to be selected during the booking. Remember to book the zones in the core area which offer the best sightings of wild animals.

The permits are charged and photo identification is required to be mentioned whence booking. During the entry, the photo identity has to be presented by each and every one. The options you get is a visit on an open jeep or a canter. The former is more private but the latter is cheaper and the ride has to be shared with other tourists.  Anyway book in advance is my advice! The option for current booking is also available at the Gate if entry is not fully booked. Do you wish to take a chance? 

For a longer duration of stay, a large number of high-end, heritage, luxury, and budget resorts are available. These are situated near Sawai Madhopur township out in the buffer area. You can book them online if you wish. Choose the one that offers modern amenities and good service. Read trip reports or reviews or seek references from a friend who has already been there.

The entry is fixed as per the time set by the forest department. The exit is also fixed by the department. Jeeps are available for excursions in the park and some hotels provide naturalist services to enhance your experience. All this costs money so be prepared to spend. The rewards are worth the expense.

Resort

There is a limit for the entry vehicles in the core zones for the excursion. There is a  full day safari at Ranthambhore option available online. In this format, you enter early and exit late while you spend the whole day in the park. This is best suited for wildlife photography and filming. Book any tiger safari but do it in advance is my suggestion. In case of a rush, you will not be able to avail of an entry in the core zone.    

Carry quality binoculars and some books on wildlife. Warm clothing in winter is essential. And yes make a purchase of all essentials at Jaipur before you depart for Sawai Madhopur. The park is closed during the monsoon from July to September.  

Pachmarhi A Pristine Holiday Retreat

Pachmarhi Resort 

As the taxi negotiates agonizing twists and turns of the rugged climb I look at the changing landscape - astounding verdant greenery. We are negotiating the Matkuli Hill Range and driving up towards the Pachmarhi Township. Nestled in the Satpura Range Pachmarhi is part of the Satpura Biosphere Reserve which encompasses Satpura National Park and Bori Wildlife Sanctuary.    

Hilly Landscape

The sharp turns and twists, and the deep glens we leave behind make me dizzy, and my innards shaky. You are conscious of a fatal slip but the driver is at ease and that is comforting. 

Pachmarhi Hillside

We stop at Denwa Darshna the mountain river which intersects the biosphere reserve.  From the dizzy precipice, the river looks like a snake wriggling through steep walls of ancient mountains. The boulder-strewn pathway gives way to fine sand-filled beaches, and the waters sparkle brightly in the sunlight. This is our first introduction to this pristine paradise. 

Unspoiled and in a perfect state of preservation, Pachmarhi was saved from the axe by its notification as a wildlife sanctuary, and being a Cantt it was saved from rapid urbanization. Unlike other holiday resorts in India, the destination is untouched, unspoiled, and charming albeit tourist pressure and township reconstruction have a telling effect in a small area, but nevertheless, it still is one of the finest retreats in India. 

Shrub

Daru Haldi Exotic Shrub a painkiller of note

The most stunning and captivating waterfall I find here is the Silver Falls. Not yet motorable, one has to trek through dense forests to reach the fall. The misty cascade created by the seven hundred feet drop to the enigmatic valley below gives rise to a silver curtain and hence the name. On the way, we come across a paleolithic cave with paintings dating back to 20000 years. The next stop is at the Fairy Pool, crystal clear and absolutely still, the pool is fed by an enchanting spring that emerges from the forest clads mountains.  Other interesting places to follow are Handi Cove, Bee Falls, Irene Pool, and Reechgarh Caves. There are more...     

Pool

Reechgarh

On one visit you realize that terrain was in a constant state of upheaval for ages with forest-clad mountains dotting all over the surroundings. Incidentally, the highest point in Madhya Pradesh is Dhoopgarh about nine km from the township. The hill rises steeply to a height of 1350 MSL. At the top of this mountain sits a quaint resthouse deserted but in a state of preservation. This was the favorite haunt of the British Sahibs during the Raj, and they used to indulge in hunting and revelries best imagined in the summer capital. The destination in the contemporary era is still the summer capital of the MP Government.  

Highest Point Dhoopgarh

Rest House At Dhoopgarh

As you climb up to Dhoopgarh, the vegetation changes giving rise to a distinct ecosystem that supports myriads of life forms, especially migratory birds. Another towering mountain is Chuaragarh with four thousand steps to negotiate if you dare to climb. Atop this mountain sits the temple of Lord Shiva which is a point of pilgrimage for devout Hindus.

View From Dhoopgarh

Milestone at Dhoopgarh

Some of the valleys are deep beyond expectation and are often visited by botanists to explore the goldmines containing rare plants and shrubs. The place contains floral species of immense medicinal value besides being ornamental.     

Pandav Caves

In a small area surrounding the township i.e. the wildlife sanctuary and Satpura Tiger Reserve, there are a number of natural occurrences like waterfalls, pools, glens, mountains, and natural caves. Overriding these iconic spots are cave formations containing Shiva idols, Bade and Chote Mahadev, Jata Shankar, and the Pandava Gufa.

Though overcrowded the township has some of the finest old bungalows stamped with exquisite British Architecture, these are in a perfect state of preservation and inhabited. Some have been turned into hotels like the Golf View Hotel in the periphery. Signs of tourism fatigue are obvious but thankfully limited only to the township.   

Golf View Hotel

The periphery being part of the biosphere is rich in wildlife and leopard sloth bears, sambar, and bison are often encountered by trekkers. An occasional tiger from the reserve finds its way here as well. Due to the varying altitude and immense floral wealth, Pachmarhi is soon to become a birding hotspot. One small trek we came across contained more than twenty five species and a fresh pawprint of a tiger.  

Tiger Paw Print Pachmarhi

There are many resorts in Pachmarhi Township, and some luxurious properties owned by MPTDC in the outskirts for accommodation. Street food joints are in plenty along with small shopping centers.

The hills station lies near Jabalpur in Madhya Pradesh. It is five hour drive from Jabalpur Airport and is also accessible from Bhopal Airport. It lies at a drive of two hours from Satpura Tiger Reserve entrance at Madai.

By Rail: Stoppage at Piparia Station ( 3 hrs from Jabalpur) and one hour drive uphill to the township.