Watching Tiger in a Romantic Getaway

I could barely believe my eyes, the paw marks were large enough to confirm the sighting. Just before my curiosity drew me to the spot where I was watching birds, a few men had looked down and then passed nonchalantly ahead. They were on a morning walk and from their nonchalance I could make out that the paw marks were a regular occurrence.

Doopgarh Pachmarhi 

I was not in a tiger land, I was at the edge of Pachmarhi Township buzzing with tourism activity. It was early in the morning, I was on a trip with my clients whence I met Puneet the ambitious owner of a busy resort named Golf View.   He became interested in hiring me as a bird guide for his beautiful hotel in Pachmarhi aptly named due to its proximity to a golf course in Pachmarhi Township.  

Tiger Pug Marks

The trip was supposed to test my birding skills, and we were on foot. This was against the advice Puneet had stressed upon. In the rugged landscape of steep jagged cliffs draped with tropical greenery and the serene ambiance of Pachmarhi my favorite hill resort in Central India, I decided not to be on a noisy vehicle. The town was sleeping as we left on foot with Puneet's jeep on the toe.  

"Birds shy off the jeeps, and this is no way to spot avian," I said. " I am ready for a long haul". The resort owner said nothing. He ordered his jeep to follow us at a distance.     

Pandav Caves

Pachmarhi First Sight & Food

The spirited terrain in the township is uniform, but the sudden eruption of cliffs after a short distance can be jarring at the first sight for the uninitiated, but nevertheless, the panoramic grandeur soothes the surprised nerves. Outside the town limits, the activities come to a stop (the visit was in the off-season) and the World comes to a standstill as if frozen back in time.  At that time, the noisy tea stalls were in slumber about to wake up for their lazy customers. Pachmarhi is not for people who need a bite at the first stroke of dawn. Luckily, I had a sumptuous breakfast at Golf View.

Near the township, visitors have varied options for meals mostly vegetarian but nevertheless delicious. The hill station incites deep hunger in the prevailing salubrious environment, and local street food is good enough. For upscale tourists, restaurants in luxury hotels are beckoning but few do venture out to try the local stuff.     

Pachmarhi Hills Big & Small  

Pachmarhi accords a feeling of an esoteric charm whence you are alone, and the geological formations mesmerize at one fleeting glance. Impressive by all means, the panoramic spread at steep heights cannot be encountered anywhere. You have to see to believe. The striking features of the larger hills are the dense green clothing of trees and bushes, the tapered pinnacles, and the sloping contours. In between, the steep bare cliffs stand out like silent sentinels warning intruders not to dare.    

The streams in the glens are most enchanting when they glisten as sunlight fall on them. The twinkling stars erupt in the daytime as the rivers silently snake through steep cliffs and dense canopies.  The natural formations are striking and pleasing and not only amazing. They accord a true holiday feel in the wilderness.   

Being a wildlife sanctuary and now part of Satpura Tiger Reserve, the holiday resort is a haven for wildlife enthusiasts as well as holidaymakers on sprees. The place is popular as a romantic getaway with cold winters and not-so-hot summers. Couples arrive here in large numbers to initiate and get familiar with conjugal life in the cool, salubrious confines of the resort with plenty of spots for complete isolation. 

You can see the newlyweds most often at the multichambered Pandav Caves situated within the township amidst a clutter of tea stalls, shops, and DIY car parking.  Yes, taxis and cars are parked just anywhere in this hill resort on a first come first stop basis. Holding hands, they are quite conspicuous but ignored by the crows busy with sightseeing and enjoying their brunch.  

Some of the old hotels and bungalows date back to the British Raj in India and stir reminiscence of the era of Raj a turbid rule nonetheless full of romantic grandeur created by the Sahibs.  The Sahibs loved this destination, the summer capital of Madhya Pradesh. The rest house at Dhoopgarh was to witness revelries unprecedented during the Raj powered by scotch, and the wood-fired Indian food that khansamahs created in the dingy set-aside kitchen. Standing in front of the vacant rest-house, I could realize how ordinary nonelites could be. Unlike in the case of Sahibs, a visit to this hill station is a privilege we can ill afford.   

Rest House

Off-Season Visit

Crowds wash off the fun of being in an enchanting place hence off-season visits are rewarding.  After a demanding and lackluster trip to Satpura Tiger Reserve, Pachmarhi was a whiff of fresh air. On the very first day, I heard Malabar Blue Whistling Thrush, the refreshing long-drawn sonorous song is unforgettable. Nothing beats it, even a robust breakfast with a delectable menu. 

This holiday destination is a paradise for the ornithologists who are constantly exploring the remote place for that one vagrant that could crown their checklist. 

A Predator So Close & Sloth Bears

We stopped for a while, the big cat paw prints were quite fresh but I believed it had gone past from the spot. A couple of days back it had been seen by many near the very spot. It was an aging cat pushed off by a rival perhaps. 

Golf View Hotel

Stunned by a predator so close, I hesitantly decided to continue the walk. But it was short-lived. The next warning was that of the sloth bear, which I was told can surprise you in the bush. They can deliver nasty scars when alarmed. On the walk, we encountered bushland with twisting walkways in between, and anywhere the slothy creature could be lurking. On full alert, I know how unpredictable the sloth bear could be. Unlike the tiger, they are known to attack without any reason or threat perception. They have mauled people to death in the past, and to get away with scars is worse for they disfigure and maim for life.  Thankfully, this was a rare occurrence and the calm on my face was an assurance for Puneet. We nevertheless were onboard whence we came to dense thickets that allowed no transparency.            

We continued on the jeep. Panoramic spread of hills enshrouded in green, and the jagged bare outcrops and precipices are everywhere but each with a differing countenance. You can never tire out believe me.  

Landscape STR

Dhoopgarh

Mesmerized to the hilt, we continued towards Dhoopgarh which literary means a fort draped in the sunshine. Yes, this is the highest spot in Central India. The drive goes through nerve-wracking steep and acutely twisting curves and you need to hold yourself calm. The deep ravines support tropical herbs and shrubs nourished by gentle sunlight that enters the inaccessible valleys, and minuscule crevices with flowing water, and are protected by the cool shady confines. Some of the exotic herbs found here have medicinal properties yet are undiscovered. Botanists revel in exploring these inaccessible dangerously steep places in the hill resort.

Pachmarhi Forests

Grandeur in Simplicity & The Bar 

At the top of the hill sits a rest house lost in the bygone era. This was the place for revelries during the Raj. Now visited mostly out of curiosity by love birds and the ubiquitous tourists, it is a pointer to British architecture in India. The structure that the British built exhibited grandeur in simplicity, they are enchanting without fail. and blessed with a quiet ambiance difficult to find in modern architecture. No esoteric carvings no domes. 

As we roll down the hill memories of past visits surface in the bewildering labyrinth of my mind. The town once a place steeped in serenity was busy catering to crowds of rancorous tourists, and the single roads were full of cars and smoke. Most old hotels face stiff competition from new arrivals but retain their esoteric charm.  I used to love visiting the bar at Old Block in the evenings. It is the solitude that appeals the most to town people. Conversation in hush-hush tones amid already prevailing silence, dark draped night impact the yellow lightning in upscale venues that soothe. I was very fond of this bar and spent a few moments in peace here during my past visits.    

Thanks to the notification, the town is unable to expand. Mercy! Out beyond the town limits, there are plenty of geological formations and wilderness full of birds and wild animals. The big mammals are elusive but the natural formations are not at all disappointing.  

We did not see the tiger but nevertheless, it was memories springing back of days whence I used to visit with my extended family members.  

Pachmarhi Hill Resort is a five hours drive from Jabalpur Airport, and a little less distant from Bhopal Airport the Capital City of Madhya Pradesh. Reserve your accommodation in advance and schedule the visit in summer with a bit less of a crowd. Do not worry summers are tolerable here. 

A number of MPTDC hotels with good enough locations and modern amenities are the best accommodations to seek. But book well in advance. 

Read Pristine Pachmarhi

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Uday is a blogger and offers Seo + Content For Digital Marketing Services. 

He teaches digital marketing (SEO) in Jabalpur.

He freelances as a naturalist/birder at Kanha National Park. He loves to write on travel. 

He can be contacted at: 

pateluday90@hotmail.com

09755089323

Author

Pachmarhi A Pristine Holiday Retreat

Pachmarhi Resort 

As the taxi negotiates agonizing twists and turns of the rugged climb I look at the changing landscape - astounding verdant greenery. We are negotiating the Matkuli Hill Range and driving up towards the Pachmarhi Township. Nestled in the Satpura Range Pachmarhi is part of the Satpura Biosphere Reserve which encompasses Satpura National Park and Bori Wildlife Sanctuary.    

Hilly Landscape

The sharp turns and twists, and the deep glens we leave behind make me dizzy, and my innards shaky. You are conscious of a fatal slip but the driver is at ease and that is comforting. 

Pachmarhi Hillside

We stop at Denwa Darshna the mountain river which intersects the biosphere reserve.  From the dizzy precipice, the river looks like a snake wriggling through steep walls of ancient mountains. The boulder-strewn pathway gives way to fine sand-filled beaches, and the waters sparkle brightly in the sunlight. This is our first introduction to this pristine paradise. 

Unspoiled and in a perfect state of preservation, Pachmarhi was saved from the axe by its notification as a wildlife sanctuary, and being a Cantt it was saved from rapid urbanization. Unlike other holiday resorts in India, the destination is untouched, unspoiled, and charming albeit tourist pressure and township reconstruction have a telling effect in a small area, but nevertheless, it still is one of the finest retreats in India. 

Shrub

Daru Haldi Exotic Shrub a painkiller of note

The most stunning and captivating waterfall I find here is the Silver Falls. Not yet motorable, one has to trek through dense forests to reach the fall. The misty cascade created by the seven hundred feet drop to the enigmatic valley below gives rise to a silver curtain and hence the name. On the way, we come across a paleolithic cave with paintings dating back to 20000 years. The next stop is at the Fairy Pool, crystal clear and absolutely still, the pool is fed by an enchanting spring that emerges from the forest clads mountains.  Other interesting places to follow are Handi Cove, Bee Falls, Irene Pool, and Reechgarh Caves. There are more...     

Pool

Reechgarh

On one visit you realize that terrain was in a constant state of upheaval for ages with forest-clad mountains dotting all over the surroundings. Incidentally, the highest point in Madhya Pradesh is Dhoopgarh about nine km from the township. The hill rises steeply to a height of 1350 MSL. At the top of this mountain sits a quaint resthouse deserted but in a state of preservation. This was the favorite haunt of the British Sahibs during the Raj, and they used to indulge in hunting and revelries best imagined in the summer capital. The destination in the contemporary era is still the summer capital of the MP Government.  

Highest Point Dhoopgarh

Rest House At Dhoopgarh

As you climb up to Dhoopgarh, the vegetation changes giving rise to a distinct ecosystem that supports myriads of life forms, especially migratory birds. Another towering mountain is Chuaragarh with four thousand steps to negotiate if you dare to climb. Atop this mountain sits the temple of Lord Shiva which is a point of pilgrimage for devout Hindus.

View From Dhoopgarh

Milestone at Dhoopgarh

Some of the valleys are deep beyond expectation and are often visited by botanists to explore the goldmines containing rare plants and shrubs. The place contains floral species of immense medicinal value besides being ornamental.     

Pandav Caves

In a small area surrounding the township i.e. the wildlife sanctuary and Satpura Tiger Reserve, there are a number of natural occurrences like waterfalls, pools, glens, mountains, and natural caves. Overriding these iconic spots are cave formations containing Shiva idols, Bade and Chote Mahadev, Jata Shankar, and the Pandava Gufa.

Though overcrowded the township has some of the finest old bungalows stamped with exquisite British Architecture, these are in a perfect state of preservation and inhabited. Some have been turned into hotels like the Golf View Hotel in the periphery. Signs of tourism fatigue are obvious but thankfully limited only to the township.   

Golf View Hotel

The periphery being part of the biosphere is rich in wildlife and leopard sloth bears, sambar, and bison are often encountered by trekkers. An occasional tiger from the reserve finds its way here as well. Due to the varying altitude and immense floral wealth, Pachmarhi is soon to become a birding hotspot. One small trek we came across contained more than twenty five species and a fresh pawprint of a tiger.  

Tiger Paw Print Pachmarhi

There are many resorts in Pachmarhi Township, and some luxurious properties owned by MPTDC in the outskirts for accommodation. Street food joints are in plenty along with small shopping centers.

The hills station lies near Jabalpur in Madhya Pradesh. It is five hour drive from Jabalpur Airport and is also accessible from Bhopal Airport. It lies at a drive of two hours from Satpura Tiger Reserve entrance at Madai.

By Rail: Stoppage at Piparia Station ( 3 hrs from Jabalpur) and one hour drive uphill to the township.

Lesser Known Places in MP - Patalkot

Hidden from the World deep into the depth of mother Earth Patalkot is a unique land. One densely forested there has taken place lot of denudation. Anyway the places is enchanting as I have come to understand from reader reviews. People who have been to Patalkot speak a lot about it being a strange esoteric place the excels as a holiday destination.

The destination is about 56 km from Chindwara near Tamia Ghat on the way to Pachmarhi Hill Retreat. The depression is about  1200 feet deep from an average height of Tami which is 2750 to 3250. The horseshoe shaped valley is reachable by the cris cross of roads leading to the pit.   The valley has an area of around 79 sq km and is inhabited with tribal living in small hamlets.     

The Pachnmarhi Biosphere Reserve encompass Patalkot and its lesser known inhabitants.  The area is picturesque and worth spending time there. It is an exciting opportunity to learn about the endemic tribes living below he depth of the Earth. The Gond and Bharia tribal culture, their rites and rituals are always an exciting find. Another interesting element is the herbal medicine used by the inhabitants. The area is rich in biodiversity and varying depths and moist sun less quarters encourage growth of herbs and shrubs with medicinal properties. Micro flora like lichens, algae, fungi and moss grow in wild abundance.      

Patalkot is about 78 km from Chindawara town on the way to Parasia 28 km. Continue to Tamia about 30 km whence you reach Bijouri village before Tamia take a right turn and continue driving for about 16 km till you reach Patalkot. 

The journey takes 2 1/2 hrs fro Chindawara where the accommodation hotels are in good numbers. Your night halt will be in this town hence make an early start and come back early evening.

Pachmarhi Hill Retreat  is an interesting destination and a wildlife sanctuary.

MP tours - Destinations

Much publicized as a popular destination for holidays, sightseeing, birding and wildlife. The state of Madhya Pradesh offers much more. The state has gained popularity as tourism destination due to tiger safari parks like Kanha, Bandhavgarh and Pench tiger reserves.

Top MP Tourism Destinations 

Khajuraho Temples

Eleventh Century AD temples that depict Kamasutra on the outer falls of many temples. The  temples are a fine example of ancient Hindu Architecture and typifies the construction under the Culchuri dynasty of Central India. The exhibits on the outer walls exonerate humans as sexual beings and are more of a treatise  without any malaise.      

Khajuraho is well connected by flights from metros especially New Delhi. The nearest rail head  is at Satna. The destination can also be reached from Bandhavgarh & Jabalpur.  The tourism infrastructure is well developed with hotels ranging from five star to budget class available for accommodation. Nearby places of interest are Panna National Park and Ken Gharial Sanctuary. These places are within driving distance and can be easily approached from Khajuraho. The temple town is popular among inbound tourists and the highlight is the Khajuraho Dance Festival.    

Pachmarhi Hill Resort

One of the finest hill retreats in Madhya Pradesh, India, Pachmarhi is more popular amongst Indian tourists. The retreat is a wildlife sanctuary and a Cantt hence rabid development has not taken place outside the township. The retreat is a magnanimous delight of  forest clad and rugged mountains, deep valleys and  rivers. The sightseeing is at waterfalls, glens and mountain sides. Pachmarhi is picturesque beyond words and abounds in birds and wildlife. There are many ancient caves and temples devoted  to Lord Shiva. Nearest places of interest are the pristine Bori Sanctuary and Satpura National Park.  

Only MP tourism hotels provide adequate accommodation though many private hotels are in the town limit.  The hill resort is approached from Piparia rail head and is about 57 km uphill. Piparia is well connected with Jabalpur rail head with number of trains plying to and fro. From Jabalpur, Piparia is about two and half hours of train ride.   

Kanha National Park

A well known tiger reserve Kanha is a prime tiger habitat famous for tiger safaris. It is a heaven for wildlife watchers and birders. There are more than 22 Central Indian mammals that inhabit the park. The park abounds in birds, butterflies and reptiles. The keystone species are tiger, leopard, wild dog, swamp deer, sloth bear ad the bison.     

The tourism infrastructure is well developed with large number of wildlife resorts and hotels for accommodation. The park safaris are organized by the hoteliers under supervision of the forest department. The safaris are conducted under strict rules and regulation t benefit the conservation efforts.

Kanha can be approached from Jabalpur, Raipur and Pench Tiger Reserve near to Nagpur. Jabalpur offers the best approach to Kanha via Mandla. The driving distance is about 165 km. The city is well connect by Indian Railway network and by flight to New Delhi.    

Bandhavgarh National Park

Famous for its tigers on which many films have been made. Bandhavgarh tigers might be the most filmed tigers in the World. In my opinion Bandhavgarh is one of the most charismatic tiger reserve in MP, India. It is home to more than forty tigers in an area little more than four hundred sq.km. This National Park is unique since it has historical and religious importance.  

Bandhavgarh draws lots of tourists from all over the World to see the tiger in the wild. The density of the tigers is high and so is the visibility because of unique terrain. The park is full of low rising hillock interspersed with marshy grasslands which provide the tigers with ideal hunting grounds. Besides the tiger one can spot the leopard, sloth bear, sambar deer, wild dog, wild boar, barking deer, spotted deer and the ubiquitous langur.

The places of interest are within the park: Bandhavgarh Fort, Sesh Shaiyya or reclining Vishnu, many zoo morphic form of Lord Vishnu carved out of igneous stones and Laxman temple near the fort. One comes across many mad made caves and temples in ruins on wildlife safaris. The preserve is an excellent place for birders as large number of bird species are found here. 

Bandhavgarh is best approached from Jabalpur which is about four hours drive via Katni or Umaria.  Umaria railway station is connected overnight with New Delhi and few trains from Jabalpur. The rail head is about 32 km from the  park. Bandhavgarh is about six hours drive from Khajuraho and about seven hours drive from Kanha.   

Pench Tiger Reserve

Pench in the Seoni Hills as Kipling described it is a tiger heaven. It is where Mowgli the wolf child was born. One can still see the wolf pack from Khwasa to Turia gate with some luck. The park lies ten km inside from Khwasa on Jabalpur Nagpur Road. The keystone species are tiger, leopard, wild dog, bison besides many Central Indian mammals, reptiles and insects make Pench their home.

Pench is famous for tiger safaris and leopards are more frequently seen here. The preserve is good place for birding with many exciting finds to be discovered.

The best approach to Pench National Park is from Nagpur which is one and half hours drive and connected with air service from New Delhi and some other towns. Jabalpur is about 200 km from Pench and a good drive. Pench is also about six hours drive from Kanha.

Marble Rocks Jabalpur

Jabalpur is a go between the top tourism destinations in Madhya Pradesh. Embellished with verdant greenery the city still retains its Old World charm at many places. It is a large town with all modern amenities and accommodations. There is lot of sightseeing to be done at Jabalpur City but most popular is a visit to Marble Rocks a gorge in the Narmada River. It is a famous boat ride amidst dazzling melange of color on smooth rocky mountains of marble. Nearby places of interest are Dhuandhar Falls and Chausath Yogini Temples.      

Tourism in Madhya Pradesh is well organized. The best way to tour is on MP package tours organized by tour companies in the state. Hotels and Taxis can be booked online directly. Most of the hotels in Kanha National Park, Pench and Bandhavgarh have their websites for online booking facilities.   

MP Tourism Hotels are the best stay in Pachmarhi while Khajuraho has wide range of hotels. There many tour operators offering packages for the state of Madhya Pradesh in India.