Khajuraho Temples - Of Treatise on Stone

Twenty-Five Temples now exist in the Temple Town Khajuraho in the State of Madhya Pradesh in India. A popular tourist destination visited from all over the Globe. 

Khajuraho Through The lens of Romantic Novel based in India

Salvation is the ultimate goal of humans especially those professing Oriental religions that originated in India.  The ultimate deliverance is through Karmic deeds that are supposed to be based on following the path of truth, sacrifice, and piety.  

Khajuraho Temples

Religiosity is central to achieving salvation and eventually escaping the frequent torturous cycle of life, death and rebirth.  

Khajuraho Carvings  

The path to salvation does not have any mandatory manifestations and it is not necessary to relinquish Worldly pleasures or satiation of our sensory apparatus. This is why treatises like Vatsyayana’s   Kama Sutra came into being and became so popular. 

Temples of Khajuraho 

In the romantic novel A Passionaate Gospel of True Love this is what Moh Lal Rai discovers.  Right at the doorsteps of the famous Khajuraho Temples Moh is surprised to see intense erotic sculptures on the outer walls.

Built by the Chandela Rajput Kings between the 9th to 11th centuries they were not a lascivious representation of the physical attributes of humans. Sexual gratification, true love, and emotional attachments were pathways to achieving a fulfilled life and for the soul to come to rest. 

Physical gratification is never tarnished in the image of ancient people as being lascivious, lewd, or lecherous.           

Perhaps this was the intent of Goddess Maa Durga through the premonition to guide Moh Lal Rai to Khajuraho Temples. She was in India to fulfill her destiny a coming together of true lovers as prophesied during the fashion show in Las Vegas in the USA.

In meeting her destined lover Gaurang a number of questions had arisen especially with the relationship as both were already tied in a conjugal bond with others. The guidance was a journey of discovery as she found out the concept of all absorbing love between true lovers or split halves. 

The treatise of Kama Sutra is not limited to the aspect of physical love it goes much deeper and is the soulful manifestation of an aspect of life that is often shunned as being sinful by the unaware. This could be termed as the higher purpose of Khajuraho Temples in connection with the Kama Sutra Treatise.   

A Passionaate Gospel of True Love is a manifestation of liberal thoughts that justifies relationships beyond the norms we have come to understand. The orthodox injunctions towards love and romance are age-old. It is this romantic saga that dares to explore the unconventional through the truth hidden in our sacred texts and treatise.           

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Khajuraho: Magic in Stone

For centuries hidden in remote confines
Unknown to the World the marvels lost in time  
The temples lay desolate and untended
Many in crumbling ruins some desecrated
Discovered by chance a heritage was excavated
A treasure worthy an artistic delight most appreciated     

Descendants of Moon God the Chandelas
Mighty rulers the Rajputs of Bundela
The creators bold the dynasty personified 
Magic in stone the carvings as described
A magnificent creation of the art inclined
Sensuous forms of damsels divine
Of nymphs celestial & beasts intertwined
Of erotica in imagery the taboo eulogized  

The ancient temples of Khajuraho
An esoteric narrative of royal creation
On stones interlocked to perfection
In sculptures depicting sensual recreation
The impressive objects of art and veneration

Of divinity and Kama essential
An eternal truth existential
Reveal Tantrik sex in the treatise
Of procreation through pleasure one derives
With the chisel and the knife
The angelic figures have come to life

 Poem Copy Right Uday Patel
Photo Credit: Nandita Amin

Khajuraho The Land of Love Temples

The TT looked at me and asked for the ticket. "You should be in a general coach," he spoke nonchalantly without even looking at me.

"Where am I?" I looked at the maddening mass of humanity piled up mercilessly inside the coach crushing each other for whatever space available.   

"Worse than a general coach," I mutter.

"That will be 340 Rs", as he began preparing the receipt.   

For nearly the same  price I could have enjoyed the AC coach and the ensuing luxury and safety.  

After three hours of standing at one corner of the coach the express finally reaches Satna in Central India. From here onward it was a long and agonizing wait for the filming crew to arrive from Mumbai. "The train is three hours late an we will arrive at 9.30 PM". Kiran the ace photographer called me up.

Dance Festival Khajuraho

The journey towards Khajuraho is riddled with potholes. The torturous drive halts at Nagod for a tea and ciggy break. It is almost 11 PM and I am bone tired. After long expectation we halt at a Dhaba at 1.00 pm for some mouth watering food.

"Amazing at this time of the night".  Our driver had long convinced us to have supper here and it was rewarding.

Khajuraho Temple

We than proceed to Khajuraho through the Panna National Park and eventually reach Taj Hotel Chandela. The night staff is waiting for me and ushers me into my room. "Sleep Well Sir, the attendant wishes me politely. The main stay here has been warmed up by extremely courteous and attentive staff and delicious food.  I am thankful to Poonam Uppal for hosting me in five star luxury. She is the author of "A Passionaate Gospel of True Love".           

Temple at Khajuraho

I glimpse in absolute amazement at the group of temples that date back to 10th Century AD perhaps earlier. "Treatise on Tantric Sex," Mamaji one of the senior most guide of Khajuraho. The erotic carvings are on the outer walls of Hindu Temples. "Absolute freedom of expression in that conservative era," I speak to Mamaji.

"This extreme ecstasy portrayed here is divinity." He informs me as I peek at bizzare carvings of  the erotic kind.  People from World over come to see these magical wonders in stone. "The structures are skilfully interlocked without the use of any cementing material," Mamaji is a gold mine of information.

The quaint little town engulfs the temples of love and supports a population of about 18000 locals.

Natural Cave Panna by Jagat Flora

The museum is humid and suffocating but not the exuberant pieces of tribal art. I gloat at the art on the walls before I am called for what I came here for.

I was anchoring an interview with the celebrity author Poonam Uppal. For all three days I am involved with the video shoot. A brief reprieve being lunch at Ken River Lodge at Panna Tiger Reserve and a boat ride on tranquil waters of crocodile infested Ken River.           

Panna Gorge by Jagat Flora

At Khauraho, the temples appear as neat structures, as they truly are, and carry an enigmatic message of love in its most divine form. All through, I did not find anything banal on those exquisite carvings.
 
This destination along with the tiger reserve is a  must add on one's wish list. Other places of interest nearby are the Panna National Park 35 km, Kalinjar Fort, Raneh & Pandav Falls, Ken River Sanctuary and Panna Township.

How to reach? From New Delhi By air and rail (overnight). From Jhansi (UP) by road. From Jabalpur via Satna by rail and then by road.   

All other images by courtesy Nandita Amin

MP tours - Destinations

Much publicized as a popular destination for holidays, sightseeing, birding and wildlife. The state of Madhya Pradesh offers much more. The state has gained popularity as tourism destination due to tiger safari parks like Kanha, Bandhavgarh and Pench tiger reserves.

Top MP Tourism Destinations 

Khajuraho Temples

Eleventh Century AD temples that depict Kamasutra on the outer falls of many temples. The  temples are a fine example of ancient Hindu Architecture and typifies the construction under the Culchuri dynasty of Central India. The exhibits on the outer walls exonerate humans as sexual beings and are more of a treatise  without any malaise.      

Khajuraho is well connected by flights from metros especially New Delhi. The nearest rail head  is at Satna. The destination can also be reached from Bandhavgarh & Jabalpur.  The tourism infrastructure is well developed with hotels ranging from five star to budget class available for accommodation. Nearby places of interest are Panna National Park and Ken Gharial Sanctuary. These places are within driving distance and can be easily approached from Khajuraho. The temple town is popular among inbound tourists and the highlight is the Khajuraho Dance Festival.    

Pachmarhi Hill Resort

One of the finest hill retreats in Madhya Pradesh, India, Pachmarhi is more popular amongst Indian tourists. The retreat is a wildlife sanctuary and a Cantt hence rabid development has not taken place outside the township. The retreat is a magnanimous delight of  forest clad and rugged mountains, deep valleys and  rivers. The sightseeing is at waterfalls, glens and mountain sides. Pachmarhi is picturesque beyond words and abounds in birds and wildlife. There are many ancient caves and temples devoted  to Lord Shiva. Nearest places of interest are the pristine Bori Sanctuary and Satpura National Park.  

Only MP tourism hotels provide adequate accommodation though many private hotels are in the town limit.  The hill resort is approached from Piparia rail head and is about 57 km uphill. Piparia is well connected with Jabalpur rail head with number of trains plying to and fro. From Jabalpur, Piparia is about two and half hours of train ride.   

Kanha National Park

A well known tiger reserve Kanha is a prime tiger habitat famous for tiger safaris. It is a heaven for wildlife watchers and birders. There are more than 22 Central Indian mammals that inhabit the park. The park abounds in birds, butterflies and reptiles. The keystone species are tiger, leopard, wild dog, swamp deer, sloth bear ad the bison.     

The tourism infrastructure is well developed with large number of wildlife resorts and hotels for accommodation. The park safaris are organized by the hoteliers under supervision of the forest department. The safaris are conducted under strict rules and regulation t benefit the conservation efforts.

Kanha can be approached from Jabalpur, Raipur and Pench Tiger Reserve near to Nagpur. Jabalpur offers the best approach to Kanha via Mandla. The driving distance is about 165 km. The city is well connect by Indian Railway network and by flight to New Delhi.    

Bandhavgarh National Park

Famous for its tigers on which many films have been made. Bandhavgarh tigers might be the most filmed tigers in the World. In my opinion Bandhavgarh is one of the most charismatic tiger reserve in MP, India. It is home to more than forty tigers in an area little more than four hundred sq.km. This National Park is unique since it has historical and religious importance.  

Bandhavgarh draws lots of tourists from all over the World to see the tiger in the wild. The density of the tigers is high and so is the visibility because of unique terrain. The park is full of low rising hillock interspersed with marshy grasslands which provide the tigers with ideal hunting grounds. Besides the tiger one can spot the leopard, sloth bear, sambar deer, wild dog, wild boar, barking deer, spotted deer and the ubiquitous langur.

The places of interest are within the park: Bandhavgarh Fort, Sesh Shaiyya or reclining Vishnu, many zoo morphic form of Lord Vishnu carved out of igneous stones and Laxman temple near the fort. One comes across many mad made caves and temples in ruins on wildlife safaris. The preserve is an excellent place for birders as large number of bird species are found here. 

Bandhavgarh is best approached from Jabalpur which is about four hours drive via Katni or Umaria.  Umaria railway station is connected overnight with New Delhi and few trains from Jabalpur. The rail head is about 32 km from the  park. Bandhavgarh is about six hours drive from Khajuraho and about seven hours drive from Kanha.   

Pench Tiger Reserve

Pench in the Seoni Hills as Kipling described it is a tiger heaven. It is where Mowgli the wolf child was born. One can still see the wolf pack from Khwasa to Turia gate with some luck. The park lies ten km inside from Khwasa on Jabalpur Nagpur Road. The keystone species are tiger, leopard, wild dog, bison besides many Central Indian mammals, reptiles and insects make Pench their home.

Pench is famous for tiger safaris and leopards are more frequently seen here. The preserve is good place for birding with many exciting finds to be discovered.

The best approach to Pench National Park is from Nagpur which is one and half hours drive and connected with air service from New Delhi and some other towns. Jabalpur is about 200 km from Pench and a good drive. Pench is also about six hours drive from Kanha.

Marble Rocks Jabalpur

Jabalpur is a go between the top tourism destinations in Madhya Pradesh. Embellished with verdant greenery the city still retains its Old World charm at many places. It is a large town with all modern amenities and accommodations. There is lot of sightseeing to be done at Jabalpur City but most popular is a visit to Marble Rocks a gorge in the Narmada River. It is a famous boat ride amidst dazzling melange of color on smooth rocky mountains of marble. Nearby places of interest are Dhuandhar Falls and Chausath Yogini Temples.      

Tourism in Madhya Pradesh is well organized. The best way to tour is on MP package tours organized by tour companies in the state. Hotels and Taxis can be booked online directly. Most of the hotels in Kanha National Park, Pench and Bandhavgarh have their websites for online booking facilities.   

MP Tourism Hotels are the best stay in Pachmarhi while Khajuraho has wide range of hotels. There many tour operators offering packages for the state of Madhya Pradesh in India.     

Temple Tours - Khajuraho

Undoubtedly the country's top attraction Khajuraho Temples are a marvel in stone that exhibit luminous grace and architectural splendor unsurpassed. The structures reflect the glory India's golden past that now survives amidst emerging modern chaos. Khajuraho temples are an epitome of liberal ideological values that were the main stays of ancient Kingdoms in Central India.

These magnificent piece of architecture lay hidden in the deep confines of Central India or the State of Madhya Pradesh. The discovery was made during the British Rule in India. The archeological finds are now maintained by the Archeological Surveys of India.    

Khajuraho is spirituality in art with expression of liberal sexual values engraved in the walls carved out of stone. The Kamasutra sex treatise is expressed here through delicate carvings and statues. The temples were built by Chandela dynasty in 10th and 11th century AD. The temples are situated in different complexes. These complexes also contain Jain Temples built during the Chandela Era. 

The purpose of this treatise in stone was perhaps a manual for young boys growing up in gurukuls or religious schools. It could also have been to please pleasure loving rain God Indra. The carved figures of men, women and animals are intertwined in various sexual positions. The carvings are intricate and explicit on the out walls of the Hindu Temples.

This hypothesis can best be left to eminent historians and scholars. Khajuraho temples are a must visit destinations. These are included in itinerary of many organized tour packages to Madhya Pradesh in India.

Khajuraho is a chaotic village that harbors these monuments of sublime beauty and exquisite artistic delights - the carving in stone - and not just erotic expressions that some of the travelers to India may be coming to see. This becomes evident on tour to Khajuraho as you visit one temple after another. You get immersed in the erotic carvings displayed on the walls.

Best way of reaching Khajuraho is by Air from Delhi and some other major towns. The nearest rail head is Satna. While one can access the temple town on Jabalpur - Bandhavgarh - Khajuraho route by taxi or personal vehicle.

The Panna National Park lies just forty five kms from the temple town of Khajuraho. Panna NP offers tiger safaris, exciting wildlife sightings and birding trips in the dense deciduous forests.

Khajuraho temples

Khajuraho is synonymous with 9th to 11th century temples which are a treatise on Kamasutra. The temples have been carved out of igneous rocks and are an architectural marvel thanks to Chandela dynasty which built them. Khajuraho was the capital of Chandela Kingdom.

The temples center around sex and males, females and animals are intricately involved in sexual postures and acts in the temple wall carvings. Nobody has an exact idea of the concept behind the temples but it is thought to depict tantric mysticism. The temples escaped the marauding Muslim invaders from destruction as they where located in forested areas. They where discovered by British Explorer T.S. Burt during the British Raj.

The main temples a must visit on Khajuraho tours are as follows:

1) Kandariya Mahadeva

2) Chaunsat Yogini

3) Chitragupta Temple

4) Vishwanath Temple

5) Lakshamana Temple

6) Matangeshwara Temple

7) Parsavanatha Temple

8) Ghantai Temple

9) Adinatha Temple

10) Duladeo Temple:

11) Chaturbhuj Temple

In ancient times there where eighty five temples built but about twenty two now remain at Khajuraho. There are many package tours available for Khajuraho and nearby destinations. Panna National Park is close to Khajuraho about 45 km drive.

Places of interest in Central India

Madhya Pradesh: Must See Travel Destinations

Bandhavgarh National Park: is situated near Jabalpur it is one of the finest tiger reserve Park in India. Offers highest tiger sightings and wildlife as deer and other carnivore like the leopard and Indian wolf and it is good place for birding.

There are many resorts at Bandhavgarh and which offer varied accommodations starting from budget resorts to luxurious accommodation. The park can be reached from Jabalpur city which is connected by air lines and railways with Delhi.

Khajuraho Temples: is situated in the district of Chhatarpur in MP it is Worlds most popular destination thanks to the 10 century erotic temples carved out of rocks. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Khajuraho has Kama Sutra encripted in the walls of the ancient temples.

Pachmarhi Hill Resort: Situated in the confines of the Satpura Ranges, Pachmarhi is a tourists paradise. Most of the tourists come here for sightseeing on holidays. The resort has much to offer. There are numerous water falls, deep valleys, caves and high mountains.     

Pench Tiger Reserve: It is believed to be the real Kipling Country on which the Jungle Book was based. Pench Tiger Reserve is home to many mammals, birds and reptiles. The prime predator is tiger which draws many tourists on wildlife safari. 

Kanha National Park: is situated near Jabalpur it is one of the finest National Park in India. Offers best tiger sighting and other Indian wildlife and birding. It is large park with scenic landscape and dense Sal forests (Shorea Robusta). It is most famous for tigers and Hard ground Barasingha.

There are many hotels in Kanha and offer both luxury and budget accommodations. The park can be reached from Jabalpur which is well connected by air and rail with Delhi.

Other Places of interests are Orchha, Chanderi, Mandu, Maheshwar and Ujjain. 

Traveling to Madhya Pradesh

Central India - Madhya Pradesh

Central India has always been a tourist attraction because of its natural beauty, wildlife and historic monuments and ancient temples.


Ujjain is a religious center for Hindus in the Malwa region. The river Kshipra runs through east of the town. Kumbh Mela Hindu religious festival is held here every twelve years. It is also the abode of Shiva as the Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga a shrine of Lord Shiva is situated here.

Ujjain is well connected with Indore by road and rail. Indore has an airport with flights from Delhi, Mumbai abd other major cities.

Sanchi is located in Raisen district and is a pilgrimage center of the Buddhists. the famous Sanchi Stupas are relics of Buddhism first commissioned by Emperor Ashoka in 3rd Century BCE. The Stupas are World Heritage site.

Sanchi is accessible by road and rail with Bhopal which is 46 kilometers away. Bhopal is well connected by rail network and air flights. It is the capital city of Madhya Pradesh. The third World Heritage site to be declared UNESCO is the rock shelters at Bhimbetika which is near Bhopal.

Orchha on the Betwa river is situated in the district of Tikamgarh in MP. Orchha has many cenotaphs, ancient forts and temples of Hindu architecture .

Marble Rocks and Duandhar Falls is a gorge in the river Narmada situated at Jabalpur. The river runs through rocks of marbles of various colors and hues in the process creating scenic and splendorous wonder. Other places of interest at Jabalpur are Madan Mahal the ancient fort of Raj Gond Dynasty built by Madan Shah the husband of Gond Queen Rani Durgavati.

Pachmarhi the queen of Hill stations, and Indian Tiger Reserves Kanha, Bandhavgarh. Panna and Pench are accessible from Jabalpur which is a major railhead and an Airport. Other wildlife destinations are the Chambal river sanctuary, Shivpuri National Park, Bori Sanctuary near Pachmarhi and Satpura National Park.

The most famous destination in Madhya Pradesh is the Khajuraho Temples situated in Chhatarpur district is World famous and tourists from all over the globe. No wonder it is UNESCO World Heritage Site. The temples date back to 10 to 11th Century AD.

Other places of architectural, cultural, and religious significance are Amarkantak near Jabalpur, Bhopal, Chanderi, Chitrakuta, Gwalior, Maheshwar, Mandleshwar, Mandu, Omkareshwar and Sonagiri.