Chambal River Tours

Bandits in the Hinterland

Stretching over a span of almost one thousand plus kilometers Chambal River is a tourist’s paradise. Once famous for killer bandits hiding unseen in the maze of the sandy dunes, this region was a frightening travel prospect in the past.  Horrifying tales of vengeance, vendetta, and loot emerged in Indian newspapers. The dreaded bandits killed many people every year. We read reports of over 400 people killed by just one bandit in cold blood purportedly carried out of vengeance.

Each criminal turned bandit had a sordid past of being victimized by higher caste landlords, family feuds, rape, loot, and plunder. Whether indulgence in cold-blooded murders of innocent had a backing of victimhood or was criminal indulgence out of instinct or bad company we could never find out as one tale after another emerged, of murders and dacoity unhindered. The news sent shivers in my spine albeit we were nowhere close to Chambal, but fear of ultras is always overpowering and frightening. Anyway, all that has been washed out, and the tourists can safely visit places of interest near the Chambal River.

Chambar River Tourism         

Pristine yet backward, this hinterland has been transformed miraculously thanks to the tourism and development that follows. The dacoits have receded into the annals of history, and no untoward incident with the tourists has taken place. Due credit is given to MPTDC or Madhya Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation for promoting tourism in remote confines of the state wherever a definite potential exists.  

A holiday at the confines of Chambal, a birding trip, or a boat ride is an enticing prospect for those who are fortunate enough to know about the destination. The destination is full of tourism potential and delivers a sound spiritual experience thanks to the time freeze, pristine splendor, and mysticism associated with the rivers like  Chambal.  

I have been to the river plenty of times on birding tours and the smells and the sounds of emptiness still linger in the convoluted labyrinths of my memory banks. The yonder blue sky, birds calling overhead, and ripples giving rise to tiny waves are what you will experience on a boat ride. Wait! There is much more to this riverine paradise untouched and unspoiled.  

For the readers, all I have to say is, do visit once!  

Boating at Chambal Quintessentially Romantic

Boating at Chambal is quintessentially romantic. The dull whirring of the motorboat engine surprisingly aligns with the aquatic ecosystem, the squeals of raptors and gulls skimming over the surface, and the turbid splash of Gangetic Dolphins sum up the moments you will encounter on a boat ride during the river tour.  The sounds are often missing but the prevailing silence is broken now and then creating an esoteric environment in the nowhere lands of remote India. The slow almost motionless ride on the placid waters is paradoxically an unforgotten adventure to be. But few tourists visit this region primarily for boat rides. The shores are frequented by ornithologists from overseas and their guides on long extended birding tours. The Chambal Lodge at Bah in UP specializes in bird-watching tours in the confines and organizes a boat ride at Chambal. The package is beyond the reach of most holidaymakers in India. The MPTDC facility at Dholepur attracts crowds interested in the boat rides. It is very economical but of short duration.

For the bird and wildlife enthusiasts, it is the land of the living for there is much happening in the space frozen back in time. For domestic tourists, the ride is a spiritual awakening after the long hardy days of a fast-paced life of material pursuits in the urban chaos.  

The river erupts every time a dolphin surfaces to breathe and dives back into the water in split seconds. A sudden surprising event the ornithologists await eagerly, they have come to watch the dolphins, gharials, muggers, and turtles besides wild animals at the shore and a plethora of birds in the sky. The targeted species are the Indian Skimmer, raptors, gulls, sand larks, cranes, and owls that reside in the cryptic crevices of the steep cliffs on the shores.   

From the shore, the river appears quite welcoming to visitors on a bright sunny day. In the winter, the fog creates an uninviting almost life-threatening environment, and only the brave alight the boat for a ride in zero visibility. The braves are birders like us, always etching to enhance their experience besides the checklist. But as time goes past, the river with its turbulent history and temples on its shores will be flooded with holidaymakers. In a heavily populated country, the river and the sand dunes in the hinterland offer the feel of a sparsely populated environment - a much-wanted escape.

Stay at Chambal Lodge at Bah in UP

Our stay at Chambal Lodge has been most pleasing the property is primarily visited by overseas birding enthusiasts. The rustic environment and local food invite them to stay longer.  The lodge has been created by converting an old Kothi or Indian noble house, the distinct architecture creates a unique experience during the day.  

Our stay has been usually overnight. I would drive my group from Agra post a visit to the Taj Mahal and Fatehpur Sikri a day earlier. The drive on the luxury bus halts at many places for local bird watch but even after these hiccups, we manage to reach Bah by lunchtime. The evenings are reserved for local birding in the company of the lodge naturalist which is then followed by dinner and sound sleep. 

The motorboat ride for the group is organized on the shore 22 km further. This is the best part of the tour and we spot all that is described above.  From here we move on towards Nainital in Uttarakhand further North.  

Chambal Factfile 

The waterbody cuts across three large states of India from its origin at Janapav in Mohw in MP to submergence in the Yamuna in Uttar Pradesh after flowing through the State of Rajasthan.  The long river is one of the least polluted entities among the aquatic systems in India and yes the wildest. 

Chambal region is known for its faunal assemblage on the shores and in the sandbars in between, two crocodile species, Gharial and marsh crocodiles, Ganges Dolphin, number of turtles, fish, and reptiles. This is a tourist’s paradise for sure and yet few visit the remote confines of the river famous for boat tours and wildlife. 

Most of the visitors to this paradise which has been notified as a sanctuary are from foreign lands, they are keen birders. The assemblage of avian species is as impressive as the wild animals on the shores.

Unique Riverine Ecosystem

The dunes,  shores, and flowing waters all combine to form an impressive spectacle and are home to a vast number of avian species. The targeted bird is of course the Indian Skimmer which arrives to nest here but other species do not lack in charm. The sand lark, painted stork, Bonelli’s eagle, osprey, wooly necked stork, chestnut bellied sand grouse, Indian eagle owl, bar-headed geese, river tern, black-bellied tern, Brahminy Duck, sarus cranes, are few stars that enamor bird enthusiasts.      

You can see a lone hyena, sloth bear, otters, monitor lizard, jungle cat, wolf, occasional leopard, and jackal to name a few animals that inhabit the salient confines of this hinterland. The boat ride on Chambal is a unique experience in a country that comprises heavily populated regions and has entered the rat race. Nearing the confines of this pristine river is a transformation from the maddening crowd to serenity and peace. 

The hamlets and green fields create an amazing landscape that captivates tourists as they trudge towards the river confines. The assemblage of rocky mountains, sand dunes, and tall trees creates a tapestry that inspires and enhances the traveler's spiritual quest. The journey is a pure bundle of delights and a soul-stirring experience.  

The best way of observing the enchanting landscape of Chambal is on a motorboat tour. The looming sandy mountains, steep cliffs, small islets upon waters, green fields, quaint hamlets, and the surging waters of the river create a striking symmetry comprising of natural objects and painted by nature's brush using exotic colors from a robust palette. As the boat goes past, the small islets can be seen full of crocodiles and turtles. The clear water is like a mirage full of dainty aquatic creatures. The calm shores populated with rocks, sand, and the ubiquitous greenfields create a mesmerizing mosaic as the boat sails past.  

On the boat, you dwell in a surreal world an ethereal experience that is far removed from ours. Lost and stunned you wish the ride would continue forever. The boat is a motorboat and offers two and half hours of safari on the river. One of the best experiences in India is near Agra. From here the drive to the shore is 90 km. The enchanting Chambal river safari is organized by Chambal Lodge at Bah. Bah township is 70 km from Agra. Another option is at Dholepur in Rajasthan organized by MPSTDC this is less costly but a shorter ride and not so engrossing.  Dholepur is sixty kilometers from Agra. From New Delhi, the city of the Taj Mahal is two and half hours drive.           

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Uday is a blogger and writes on many topics. He blogs for many websites on wildlife/travel and hospitality. He also provides digital marketing with a focus on content and SEO. 

Marble Rocks - A Visit

The road is pockmarked with potholes and driving is very difficult all the way through. An extensive network of roads has been created in Jabalpur increasing the burden on taxpayers. But nevertheless, it has made traveling from one place to another easier and less time-consuming.  (Minus the holes).  

The road intersects a wide section of the city through greener areas, and except for the holes, driving is pleasant.  Soon we are past the scenic MPEB HQ and reach the lake which is man-made and ill-kept. One of the best retreats the lake is full of waste matter and plastic on the shores. The residents of the nearby colony throw their litter here. It is a good place to watch for migratory ducks like garganey teals which arrive from Siberia.

After a cursory glance, we proceed further towards the Bargi Colony and from here we take a turn towards Duandhar Falls one more crossroad and in a few minutes, we are at the Fall. After visiting the place in childhood I found the transformation to be horrific. Nature has been completely destroyed by mining and roads. The surroundings have been completely ravaged here as in the gorge by miners, and wood loggers.

Before this place was a pristine spectacle with forested hills and a zig-zag gully between the rocks that lead to the falls. The Narmada River dips here into a depression about 40 feet creating a dazzling spectacle that is still mesmerizing. The tons of water fall on rocks and rebound as fine spray creating curtains of mist hence the name.(Dhuan = Smoke - Dhar = Fall)

A ropeway crosses the river offering a spectacular overview of the fall and the gorge. From here the river flows through the constricted gorge giving rise to a panoramic splendor that is Marble Rocks. The flow at the beginning of the gorge is turbulent making a boat ride impossible.

I walk up the steps onto a hill facing the falls in order to sight some birds. There are few of them so I enjoy the sight of the spectacle gushing down with great force. An Egyptian vulture soars overhead beside a bunch of house swifts that nest in the cliffs.

Ignorant of the pleasant weather and the beautiful sky overhead, I see from my vantage point a throng of tourists gaping at the natural wonder, few are busy clicking their cameras while the rest are at the food shacks that sell mineral water, cold drinks, and aloo bundas. Besides the sightseers, the place is always frequented by beggars, alm-seeking sadhus, and cameramen. A road leads straight to the confines of the falls for those too lazy to walk from the car park.

We walk through myriads of straw-thatched shacks which sell artifacts made of marble and stones. These are exquisitely carved by local craftsmen. These fragile statues and artifacts find many buyers especially tourists from other states. The sellers pursue you, coaxing you to buy something, the invitation is loud and jarring. So do the food wallahs, the best I could consume was sugar cane juice while my guests hogged on steaming hot samosas and a cold drink. 

We drive past the MPT Complex and the temple complex (Chousath Jogini) to reach the parking. Chuastah Jogini is a stone-walled circular courtyard enclosing ancient idols of 64 consort of Goddess Durga. A lone Shiva temple is constructed in the midst. the idols have been disfigured by Mogul invaders. 

From the car parking, a short walk takes you to the beginning of the steps that lead to the river for boating.  All around the story is repeated - shack selling artifacts made of soft and hard marble and the accompanying cacophony. The jetty is full of stalls selling snacks and refreshments. From the rows of parked row boats, we select one after some bargaining.

The guide makes the ride interesting as he describes unfolding panorama and vivid shapes on the marble cliffs with a wide melange of colors. The boat moves ahead painfully slow against the white waters. I realize the spectacle of rocks is enchanting but thanks to excess water from the Bargi Dam the ledge all around is immersed in water eliminating the habitat of some water birds, snakes, and an odd crocodile that we used to sight before the Dam was built. The boat ride was serene amongst the magic of the green surroundings. Time used to stand still as we moved from one rock formation to another equally beautiful one.   

Taking a boat ride has moved on to become a nerve-rattling adventure from serene and even dangerous. The boat turns back from mid-way, as the flow ahead is very dangerous. Nevertheless, the ride is still enchanting in spite of the quick about-turn.  

Both the Dhuandhar Falls and Marble Rocks are a must-visit for those staying or passing through Jabalpur. There are few hotels at Beraghat for accommodation, the most popular being the MPTDC hotel. The accommodation is one of the most scenic among Jabalpur hotels since it overlooks the gorge and its verdant greenery. 

The destination is about 20 km from Jabalpur Town in Madhya Pradesh. The best way to reach is to hire a taxi provided by a travel agent. There are many car rental services in Jabalpur for transportation of your own. The luxury cars can be used to reach Kanha, Bandhavgarh, Pench, or Pachmarhi as most tourists do.         

The best season is winter and one can visit the destination right up to the start of the rain or till the Bargi Dam Overflows usually by July. 

Chambal Pristine & Esoteric

The river is an epitome of purity, less damaged by polluting industries and urbanity. It is surrounded by enigmatic low rise sandy mountains that create an amazing maze of ravines. The ravines are topped by scanty thorn forest of Babul typical of arid and semi arid zones in India. The amazing spectacle of ravines and river flowing through spell binds and intrigues.

Chambal was once notorious for harboring Dacoits like Phoolan Devi, Daku Man Singh, Tehsildar Singh,  Daku Madho Singh, Mohar Singh, Chhidda Makhan  and others. Decimated gangs of dacoits or bandits still patrol the region giving sleepless nights to the law and order machinery.  Anyway all the Cat and Mouse chase has been effective in curbing the menace. The menace has not hampered tourism and is limited to rural environment perhaps dominated by local politics.    

For the travelers visit to Chambal River Sanctuary is the easiest way to experience the rivers magnificence.  The panoramic river cruise on motor boats is and enchanting experience.  The river is home to two crocodilians the mugger and gharial besides the Gangetic river dolphin. The fauna is amazing  eight species of freshwater turtles, smooth coated otter, jackal, hyena, fox, and some nocturnal mammals. 

The bird life is interesting one can see Indian Skimmer, Great Stone Plover,  Long Legged Buzzard, Osprey, Black-bellied terns, Sarus Crane, Woolly Necked Stork, Black-necked storks, Bar Headed Goose, ruddy Shelduck, teals, Bonelli's Eagle, Laggar Falcon, Sand Lark, Brook's Leaf Warbler, stilts, Comb duck and more.

The vegetation is diverse depending upon the region the river traverses through. Nevertheless vegetation is dominated by arid zone floral elements. The geology is diverse with sedimentation and soil types that are much varied.      

A short visit is worth it perhaps few hours of boat ride and birding on the shores. MPT facilitates motorboat ride at affordable fee at Dholepur in Rajasthan. MPT is on the Madhya Pradesh. part of the river across the bridge.    

River by the Fort

Allahabad Fort 

The Fort at Sangam once an object of glory and pride stands neglected, but not in complete ruins. The occupants find shelter in the ancient monument - now an object of architectural and historical significance at best. A temple busy with worshipers executing their duty to God, Indian army, pigeons and parrots, bats, insects and more. 

Till this day the Fort at Sangam serves its purpose. A silent sentinel that stands witness to one of the most holy spectacle in the World.  The meeting of the country's holiest rivers takes place at Sangam - Ganga - Yamuna - Sarawati. The religious fair and biggest pilgrimage Kumbh Mela is held after every  4 years, Ardh Kumbh every 6 years,  Purna Kumbh every 12 years and Maha Kumbh Mela after 144 year in India is organized in Allahabad. The fort has a maligned existence that of imposition and conquest a futile exercise in superiority .

The fort is a testimony to barbaric conquest, a triumphant onslaught of a foreign ruler over the souls of a billion devotees.  In spite of periodic dominance of alien culture the essence remained preserved. The fort appears to be intact, nurtured perhaps by the confluence of the holiest.

Ganges

The rivers in India are progenitor of humanity as they sustain life throughout the land. Worshiped as mother, Ganges resides in the heart of billions of devotees. For every devout Hindu, Ganges is mother of worship and an object of atonement - from sins of the past. Ganga Devotion initiated perhaps by the conservation ethos of Vedas, the river has selflessly sustained life and myriad civilizations in its fold throughout its existence. The overload of the burden is evident but the service continues.  

Mythology though secondary has elaborated and justified the spiritual and religious significance of Mother Ganges. The rituals though devoid of rationality for some are  pathway to  religious and spiritual quest for millions. The ritualistic exercise and meditation besides communion with God have a deep meaning - a methodology that adds value and justifies conservation of our environment as whole. Kumbh Mela the spectacle of Gods, heightens veneration - a womb that nourishes billions of souls - Ganges.         

Allahabad - (Prayag)

Allahabad itself, a spectacle of filth on roads and chaotic humanity,  is blessed by the confluence of the holiest rivers. A town of temples and modern architecture, it spirals uncontrollably over its sacred past and invading modernity. No wonder India's holiest destination is most coveted by devout Hindus. A much sought after travel that ironically excels as place of last rites - a final assimilation with earthly elements.    

Traveling to Madhya Pradesh

Central India - Madhya Pradesh

Central India has always been a tourist attraction because of its natural beauty, wildlife and historic monuments and ancient temples.


Ujjain is a religious center for Hindus in the Malwa region. The river Kshipra runs through east of the town. Kumbh Mela Hindu religious festival is held here every twelve years. It is also the abode of Shiva as the Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga a shrine of Lord Shiva is situated here.

Ujjain is well connected with Indore by road and rail. Indore has an airport with flights from Delhi, Mumbai abd other major cities.

Sanchi is located in Raisen district and is a pilgrimage center of the Buddhists. the famous Sanchi Stupas are relics of Buddhism first commissioned by Emperor Ashoka in 3rd Century BCE. The Stupas are World Heritage site.

Sanchi is accessible by road and rail with Bhopal which is 46 kilometers away. Bhopal is well connected by rail network and air flights. It is the capital city of Madhya Pradesh. The third World Heritage site to be declared UNESCO is the rock shelters at Bhimbetika which is near Bhopal.

Orchha on the Betwa river is situated in the district of Tikamgarh in MP. Orchha has many cenotaphs, ancient forts and temples of Hindu architecture .

Marble Rocks and Duandhar Falls is a gorge in the river Narmada situated at Jabalpur. The river runs through rocks of marbles of various colors and hues in the process creating scenic and splendorous wonder. Other places of interest at Jabalpur are Madan Mahal the ancient fort of Raj Gond Dynasty built by Madan Shah the husband of Gond Queen Rani Durgavati.

Pachmarhi the queen of Hill stations, and Indian Tiger Reserves Kanha, Bandhavgarh. Panna and Pench are accessible from Jabalpur which is a major railhead and an Airport. Other wildlife destinations are the Chambal river sanctuary, Shivpuri National Park, Bori Sanctuary near Pachmarhi and Satpura National Park.

The most famous destination in Madhya Pradesh is the Khajuraho Temples situated in Chhatarpur district is World famous and tourists from all over the globe. No wonder it is UNESCO World Heritage Site. The temples date back to 10 to 11th Century AD.

Other places of architectural, cultural, and religious significance are Amarkantak near Jabalpur, Bhopal, Chanderi, Chitrakuta, Gwalior, Maheshwar, Mandleshwar, Mandu, Omkareshwar and Sonagiri.