Rail to Apdu Ahmedabad

I wheel my bag into the 3 AC Coach of Somnath Express that plies between Jabalpur to Somnath via Ahmadabad. My PNR status is waiting list number one. This makes me very optimistic about getting a berth. I ask the TC about the possibility.

"Full hai Saheb! Bhool Jao berth" he says nonchalantly. "I will be a stowaway," I inform the TC rather apprehensively. You are not allowed to board the Indian trains if your status is on a waitlist. You have to get on the general coach which is nothing less than corporal punishment and if there is a riot you are possibly dead.

I enter the coach and find myself lucky to get a seat in the first compartment. The couple looks at me hesitantly but tends to ignore me since it is daytime. " I do not have a confirmed status but will vacate your berth when you wish to sleep," I say apologetically. They do not reply but just shake their head to express some discomfort. I feel like a pariah. This makes me realize how much difference a placement on a piece of paper can make. One step down and you are unsecured - this applies to life in real as well.          

I sit with a book in my hand, my legs stretched wide, oblivious of the surroundings. A traveler with a confirmed status to be. He! He!

Be it AC Coach or Sleeper Coach the chaos continues throughout the journey - day or overnight. Indians are restless travelers and utmost loud. From one compartment to another; to the toilet - to and fro - the settlement is never there, it is either relative adjusting the seats or friends trying to group together.  More time is spent on the passage than on the berth. For those who are taking me as chauvinistic better experience firsthand.     

The train has a large number of Gujarati travelers mostly holidaymakers who have visited Pachmarhi, Kanha, and Bandhavgarh in MP. Like loads of baggage, one another aspect is common among the Gujjus - it spells "Chavana". Chevada as it is called in Hindi is an assortment of many mouthwatering fried snacks. Gathia, Fafda, Sev, Puri, Sing Dana (Roasted Peanuts), etc. These are accompanied by Dhebra a super duper delicious Gujerati spiced bread. Whether upscale, midscale, or a bit lower this accompaniment is ubiquitous. These are one of the tastiest regional titbits and those with screwed noses will never ever experience these desi delicacies. The nutritive value is zero but that is compensated by fantastic taste. The sight and savor is an excellent cure for those suffering from dehydrated oral cavities, larynx, pharynx, and loss of appetite.       

Food among all train travelers in India is a typical extension of the journey. The gastronomic apparatus is always at work, be it chavana, peanuts, chips, aloo bondas; masala chanas, samosas, idlis, dosas, or bhel sold at the stations big and small. Lunch and Dinner are a big affair with all possible servings packed meticulously and served with gusto on paper plates. This is followed by more snacks, sweets, curd, and lassi (sweetened curd thoroughly whisked) on the stations that the train halts next and after. The mouth keeps churning throughout Chomp! Chomp! & Chomp! The coach smells of nothing but an admixture of various spices and so does the toilets - perhaps the messiest and the smelliest in the World. Well so to speak. 

"Do not even bother to show your ticket, the RAC is yet to be cleared," the TC informs me with regret. I look at the corner near the smelly toilet my recourse to be and curse my Karmas. In India, you survive if you can extract things with a bent finger and that is what I did. I ignored the TC and paid the attendant for sleep on his berth. (This is a regular affair so please do not raise eyebrows.) 

Ahmadabad Railway Station is one of the most chaotic, both inside and outside. I board an auto rickshaw and head for my nephew's flat. The old Ahmadabad appears to be depressing, messy, conservative, and scary -  like any other city in India. The auto struggles forward through the traffic with acrobatic grace executed by the experienced driver. And yes the traffic too can be described as chaotic.

The New Ahmadabad is more organized and gives a refreshing feel before the morning rush. It is one of the finest changing urban landscapes in India. As the auto surges ahead I try to figure out the way by seeking landmarks that made me reach from one place to another on my earlier visit. I give up.    

The community is tightly knit in this mega agglomeration of Gujarat. In this state, day means money, and evening means snacking or light dinner. For many, a late night is for heavy dining or consuming the preferred snacks. Contrary to popular belief, Ahmadabad is a gastronomic paradise almost on par with other metros of India. 

Though primarily vegetarian Gujarati food is the most varied and the tastiest in the World. Paradoxically average diet of many families at best can be described as light. Khichdi is the most common element of dinner at home. It is easily digestible and highly nutritious. But the Punjabi food joints rule the roost in Ahmadabad. Most of the Punjabi restaurant owners are long-back migrants and speak chaste Gujarati.                        

Two aspects that dominate culture in Ahmadabad are the Garba Dance and Marriages. The latter is one of the most important happenings...and swanky marriages invite gatecrashes. This is due to the amazing servings of ethnic and exotic foods. The classic ethnic decor and dazzling Gujerati garbs are a sheer delight to watch.

In gatherings, you will realize most of the old-generation Gujerati men lack attractive physical attributes. But the kids are getting smarter and smarter. The women are most gracefully endowed with a dazzling countenance, lightly sculptured bodies, and a demeanor that spells class. Many chics are ultra-modern hence do not fail to try your luck!       

My roots lie in Gujerat in Ahmadabad and date back perhaps a hundred years. I am not conversant with fluent Gujarati nor aligned with the fragile social fabric that is typical to this town. Coming from a cosmopolitan agglomeration I feel a bit ill at ease. I make myself comfortable in a corner with a plastic bottle filled with uh! Uh!. It is ironic that in a state that follows the principle of the Mahatma so zealously, liquor is available for asking. Concerning this very aspect in mind, I had an argument with some intellectuals as to why Gujarat is a dry state? "Liquor flows in every corner with liquified easy, all you need is a mobile number," I said. 

"It is because of prohibition that the state is so peaceful," they remarked. Well, this argument is hard to digest since I have met many people in restaurants and pan shops in a state of inebriation. The labor class consumes local brew almost every day and moves around freely.  

Personally, I believe the people of Gujarat are less prone to violence and crime. The Mahatma effect I am sure and economic stability. But unfortunately because of prohibition alcohol consumption has become a fashion as well a craze among the youth. A phenomenal amount of money must be paid by the liquor mafia to those concerned with prevention.   

Well, the marriage is well organized and I meet many of my family members and relatives. It is a terse "khemcho" most of the time and a wee bit of conversation with some.

The Gujaratis are talkative lot, polite and friendly. Full of enthusiasm when it comes to making money, eating, and traveling. The civic sense is worth emulating except the traffic sense which paradoxically the less talked about the better. If you are seeking a safe place for your daughter's education do not hesitate.  The metro has some of the finest education institutes in India.  

The characteristic Ahmadabad landscape is a mix of skyscrapers, small houses, restaurants, boutiques, colonies, shopping arcades, malls, parking, and swanky roads. The lower story contains pan shops, tea stalls, and handcarts selling a plethora of goods. The handcarts and small shops sell pakoras, bhajiyas, bhel, sandwich, dabeli, Chinese, and whatnot. Without these the landscape would be incomplete, these elements are quintessential Ahmadabadi. I never forget to savor these magical morsels besides Waghbakri Tea which is the hallmark of the city brand now going International.       

Leaving some premium markets most of the roads are littered with an amazing plethora of junk, garbage, holy cows, and stray dogs foraging between dog shit and cow dung.      

Nevertheless, there are beautiful green residential areas that exhibit architectural marvels. One great characteristic hallmark of the citizens is less snobbery. You will find a millionaire sitting with a middle-class friend sipping tea at a roadside joint. The rich will not hesitate to savor delicacies in small roadside joints. Though the finest cafes and upscale eateries abound here.  The new government is doing a marvelous job and things are changing for the better.

Those expecting sightseeing in this metro city will be disappointed for it is very little on the anvil. The walled city is a unique feature of this town which I do not really find interesting. There are a number of them and are called poles. The poles contain a series of houses enclosed by a large wall and a gate which sort of acted as fortifications during invasions by Moghuls.   

Ahmedabad is a great place if you like urban entertainment, and seek business prospects and all things related to urbanity. 

It is time to leave after an enjoyable trip. I check my Railway Pnr Status it shows a wait list as usual. Well, better luck this time perhaps. By the time I reach the railway station my nephew informs me of the berth number and coach. Bingo! The happy journey ahead.      

       

Indian Railway - Garib Rath Express

The cool confines of the vestibule look inviting as I climb onto the rail with reservation status in RAC. Garib Rath which means Chariot of the poor is a long-distance rail that begins from Jabalpur City Station in Madhya Pradesh. The destination station is Mumbai, the commercial capital of India. The train stops at many stations on its journey towards Mumbai at the Arabian Sea. 

Garib Rath belongs to the express category which means fewer stoppages or is it? At the station, there is as much chaos as it is inside. Passengers are in a Hurry as always..there is much time, so I struggle to reach my seat, put my bag under it - in a constricted space and relax. The commotion continues, a journey that only offers the comfort of temperature control and nothing else. Five people to leave one passenger.   

The coaches are nice and clean and the toilets are hygienic. This by all means is a bounty. Indian rails contain the dirtiest toilets as at other public places. But there is a continuous effort from the department to maintain all things well. The problem lies in the sheer number of travelers.  

The windows are large enough and I love to watch my India. Beautiful India! The familiar landscape passes by, and I travel often on this route. But soon darkness takes over and I am confined to the inner reality of the coach. The stark reality of inner chaos is far apart from the magical scape outside. 

The rail offers cheaper fares than most temperature-controlled accommodations. It offers a chance to those not lucky enough to travel in AC. The cool comfort makes them extra chirpy and restless the commotion goes on well past sleeping hours. This is a characteristic of many travelers in India minus the upper class. Noise, spicy food, a large number of baggage, slippers, rugs, plastic bags, and mineral water all get cramped in a minimalist compartment. The situation is worsened by continuous to and fro of vendors selling tea, snacks, and, "Very Tasty Quality Food Sir! Garama Garm". The food, if you have no other source is all but palatable.         

In the cramped confinement, the World becomes oblivious and you feel like traveling in a spacecraft through the mysterious celestial space. But there is no vacuum here, it is literally a bazaar on the move. Perhaps we Indians are the most carefree travelers. In this confinement, I experience India from close. The emergence of clutter and chaos. Simply too many people! But within this extreme lies an amazing colorful tapestry, an admixture of diverse profiles that never cease to surprise me.

Travelers chomp all around..bananas, bhajiyas, samosa, chips Haldiram, the kids are very noisy and restless. As dinner time arrives people settle down for the big chomp. Family and friends gather around oblivious to the terribly constricted space. The passage is completely blocked by the time boxes open and the pungent aroma of spices fills the whole vestibule. The aroma lingers for hours in the AC compartment. The chomp is noisy and a fine example of gluttony...a train ride creates insatiable hunger, discomfort or not. By the time the chomp is over it is time to sleep or is it? The kids continue with their antics energized by loads of food...they become more troublesome. The women have a truckload of chatting to do. They are apologetic, this is a precious instance of complete freedom for them. I smile and mean to say carry on. The bed rolls begin to roll out as time proceeds, the event is as noisy as a frantic discussion of who will sleep where?

The Ticket Checker has not yet arrived, sitting with my laptop I try to ignore the milieu. I frequently check my Current Pnr status in hope of getting a birth to sleep. I am lucky now, and I have a confirmed birth in the next coach. My neighbors are upper-class English-speaking Indians. Tight-lipped, high society snobs by fate dipped into Garib Rath. The ambiance is dull, silent, and devoid of life...the silence is the only welcoming note.   

I take out my dinner, carefully wrapped in a foil, it is...spicy...pungent...aromatic..Blah! blah!. It is mind-bogglingly tasty, I have made it myself. The heavy aroma lingers in the air as I sit crossed legged chomping freshly made aloo ke sabji, oily Paratha, achar, and papad. Lots of nasty eyebrows are raised but I am at work, who cares. Aren't we all Indians? Live Life King Size!                                 

How India Travels!

People in India travel a lot especially during festivals, in weddings, on holy occasions and in holidays. The most eager traveler is the rural folks who are not privileged enough to go on holidays.  The people of the country are tradition keepers hence change does not come fast. 

India still travels in rail. The Indian Railway provides the most popular mode of transport to the people. Incidentally it is the cheapest as well as most networked system. No wonder Indian rail journeys are most written about. The journey can be very comfortable if you are traveling in air conditioned class with a reserved berth. But not many can afford it.  

The largest number of travelers crowd the trains and buses during holy occasions like the Kumbh Mela.  This is followed by those going in to attend a political rally. Seasonal travel during holidays - Diwali, Post Exam (summer), Holi, Marriages, create the worst kind of rush in the trains. The tickets are booked in advance and it is very difficult to step in the sleeper class.  

Bus is another mode of cheap transport in the land - and worst. Most of the state run buses are ill equipped for luxury and comfort but then they are the cheapest. For luxury and comfort the answer is luxury bus services. They are costly but nevertheless preferred by upper class since travel by personal car is costlier. 

Air Travel is unthinkable if you have less money or your company does not sanction. Most of the air travelers are Government employees, Employees of big companies and the jet set who have fat load of money. The middle class flies only in emergency or during pressing need for quick travel.     

It is the only way. If you wish to experience the land from close train travel is the best followed by a bus or  taxi. Taxi is very costly used only by corporate big wigs and tourists on holiday. For holiday makers from foreign countries taxi is most recommended. It is most comfortable to travel for short distances from one destination to another. Car Rentals and Motor Home rentals are available as well but it is not yet very popular in India.    

Indian Railways - The PNR Saga

Unlike many developed countries, Indian Railway is the primary source of  travel and transportation in India. This is the preferred mode of traveling by the less privileged, the lower, middle as well as the upper class in India. (Pun unintentional!)   

Due to perpetual rush, rail reservation is the primary focus of any Indian planning to travel long distance. The obsession with train ticket and securing one's berth is an exasperating phenomena.

Though not surprising!

Long distance rail journey could be terribly uncomfortable for those traveling without a reserved seat. You  feel like an out caste and an intruder - unwanted and guilty of trespass. Does not matter if you are among the  privileged  in your town.  But things do not end here. Even short distance passengers or those who have traversed more than half the distance, chase the ticket collector (TT) in a futile effort to get a secured berth. This is to boost their bruised ego or get a last minute nap.

I have been into all this and so have you. He!He!

Agla ishtation aye ga tab dekhien gein? Seat Khali hone do! Arre Sahab!

With thousands of tickets on wait lists, reservations become the first priority with all sorts of connection seeking and what not. Getting an RAC berth is like a windfall.

Kya Mila?

Kya Hua?

Hai koi Jugad?

Quota Mein?
Tatkal?

TT se Milo ?

Kuch le lo yaar?

Kya peeche peeche ghoom rahe ho! Kahan na berth khali hogi tab dekhien gien! 

Well this may seem funny but it does not whence you do not have proper reservation on Indian train. The ticket reservation counter may show house full on the very first day of the opening of ticket booking. The tickets have been booked by early birds or online reservations have taken their toll. 

PNR stands for Public Name Record. It is designated by a number printed on the top left of the rail ticket. If you have bought a train ticket your particulars are noted down . This makes you eligible to  travel from one notified station to another  in general bogey, 2nd class, 3AC, 2AC and first AC if you pocket allows. 

It is a standard practice for would be passengers to buy the Indian Railway ticket on waiting list. Next  go online for Pnr status check almost everyday whence the Irctc website is refreshed. Finding Pnr status is like seeking exam results online. Same anxiety, same thrill and if ticket succeeds on the chart Hurray!Pass ho gayein!

Ho Gaya!Yaar!

The status becomes talk of the town - family, cousins, distant relatives, friends, neighbors and whoever who does not mind his own business.  

India is becoming live on the  Internet. Thanks to a search tool that helps check your reservation status using Pnr. In spite of server back log the tool popularity is growing in the same manner as that of blog sites. Rush or no rush the amazing Indian Railway works as it does......all the time!

Yatri Krupaya Dhyan Dein! Appki yatra safal ho!..........Chai Wala!