When India asked British visa applicants to appear in person at Indian High Commission in London there was chaos among those who had already planned the trip. Most of the people had booked VISA through middlemen to tour companies in the UK as there was no need to be at Indian High Commission in person.
The new term came as a jolt for UK travelers who had already planned the trip. Most of the had very little time to make the trip and no time to visit Indian High Commission. A lot of journeys were canceled this was a sad happening by India is not solely to blame for this.
Thankfully as per news dated December 5 in travel weekly, the e-visa has been reinstated with doorstep service available. Of the total percentage of inbound travelers to India, UK travelers from England, Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland constitute as much as 50%. The reason is not only familiarity with our country. The familiarity is anyway is decreasing among next-gen travelers. The main reasons are the proximity distance wise, and the prevalence of the English language pan India that invites the British.
The urge to travel may be due to colonial instinct the exploratory zeal is well known among the British. But then inbound tourists visit India from many countries. They come from Western Europe like France, Belgium, Germany, Spain, Holland, and some more. Russians also visit India from the Eastern Bloc in good numbers. These are tourists who are interested in tiger safaris and sightseeing while most of the travelers from Buddhist countries in Asia come to visit the holy sites. The traveler from AFPAC visits India for medical tourism.
VISA Tug of War
In order to balance host country travel restrictions tit for tat steps are taken by other countries as well. Although interim disruption is a regular norm between two countries, the loss to both exchequers is significant. The impact hurts the travel services and tour operators the most.
A lot of hotel bookings and tour operator packages were canceled in India. This was a significant loss to the hospitality industry as well as the exchequer. India depends heavily on its inbound tourism sector for foreign exchange, employment to locals, and the health of its hospitality industry that caters to inbound travelers.
The Indian hospitality industry is expected to have a warm winter to the expected arrival of a large number of UK travelers. After the pandemic, this is like a flow of fresh air not only for the hotel industry, the news is good for small service providers like guides, naturalists, taxi services, and the man selling chana on the street corner.
Inbound revenue generation comprises a significant amount of nature tourism. The global market size stands at USD 650 billion. India makes an impact in inbound revenue generation that fetches significant foreign exchange vital for the country's economy. Well, this is not all, nature tourism, like tiger tourism in India, is vital for sustainable local economies, and a large sum of revenue is plowed back into the conservation of the inheritance.
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Tiger Tourism In India
In MP alone visitors' fee draws in rupees 13 crores plus every year and this money is plowed back into conservation. Hence when you make a visit to a tiger reserve you not only seek a holiday recreation you contribute to conservation as well in terms of entry fee, guide fee, hospitality charges, and whatnot. You contribute to the local economy as well which is vital for the conservation of our priceless inheritance.
Tiger in India
What Pays Stays
Nothing can be truer. The contemporary economy is an equity-based one, and income for survival plays a vital role in managing environmental concerns sustainably. Wildlife attracts crowds and draws revenue hence preserving takes precedence over neglect and destruction. The core benefit that these tiger reserves and the National Parks accord are employment and business to locals, infrastructure development in terms of schools, and dispensaries, diverse training for empowerment of women and children, and better mainstream connectivity.
The parks and hospitality industry employs a huge chunk of locals as guides, cooks, waiters, guards, and drivers. The tiger safari in the parks is regulated to prevent disturbance and harm to the animals. In spite of severe criticism, and a court case the ecosystem, on the contrary, has increased immensely and the tiger population has risen from 1411 to over 3000 since the beginning of Project Tiger Campaign in 1973. The inviolate core at the protected areas has proven to be the main savior of endangered tigers and other lifeforms. The buffer sustains old animals and growing populations of herbivores and tigers as well. Although conserving the sink is of major concern due to extreme human pressures nevertheless positive efforts are being made.
With over 52 tiger reserves, inbound tiger tourism is one of the main contributors to foreign exchange earnings besides the supporting income generated for domestic tourism.
Organizing a Safari Holiday in India
No wonder the concept of a safari holiday is on the increase globally. In India, the spurt is recent, beginning in the mid-nineties, and has begun to peak now. Though the ecotourism concept includes bird watching, tiger spotting, and spotting the country's endemic and rare animals spread all over, the mainstays are the reserves where the big cats thrive.
For overseas holidaymakers, wildlife enthusiasts, filmmakers, and photographers the preparation for tiger safari in India should begin at least six months in advance unless they are frequent travelers. For domestic travelers a few days ahead of planning is a prerequisite. Remember securing a safari permits is mandatory for excursions.
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Among the top-ranking factors that you should consider for a memorable experience are:
Tiger Watching Success
Other Animal Watching Success
Birding Potential
Expectations
Popular Circuit
Local Experiences (Frequent Travelers)
A Classic Hospitality Experience
Reach
Ease of Travel
Safety
Smooth travel in a long itinerary (package tours)
The Best National Parks
There are many reserves that are well known for the high visibility of the big cats and tourists flock in large numbers to them. Though the purpose is a holistic visit, it is well known that the focus is on the tiger. But many other factors define a sound holiday experience.
Although there are few well-known National Parks in India, the ones listed below are most preferred.
Ranthambore National Park
Kanha National Park
Corbett National Park
Bandhavgarh National Park
Pench National Park
Tadoba National Park
These destinations rank highest among visitors as far as tiger sighting is concerned. But there are other factors that encourage visitors to choose them for a safari. Corbett, for example, is not only good for spotting big cats but also good for spotting a number of mammals and reptiles, besides it is the best place for birding. The bird species at Corbett range over 500 including the Palearctic migrants. It is close to birding hotspots like Sat Tal & Pangot in Nainital in Uttarakhand. The preserve gets crowded on weekends and festival times so plan your visit carefully.
Ranthambore is part of the famous Golden Triangle Tour that comprises visits to New Delhi, the Taj Mahal, and Jaipur the capital city of the State of Rajasthan. It is popular for the high visibility of predators and for bird watching in terms of the number of visitors, it could be most crowded so avoid a visit during the weekends and holidays.
Kanha, Pench, and Bandhavgarh form an extended circuit for package tours in Central India. Though the wildlife experience is the same, there are subtle differences that make tourists visit them often.
Bandhavgarh's inheritance includes panoramic sightseeing and exploring ancient tribal architecture that dates back over 2000 years. Kanha has been acknowledged as the world's best-managed park, it is home to the rare hard-ground swamp deer a race only found in this park.
Pench is Kipling's Country made famous by the movie Jungle Book based on Rudyard Kipling's esoteric novel the Jungle Book. Shere Khan, Bagheera, Baloo, Bandar Log, Tabaqui, and Kaa all can be seen on a visit. Though Mowgli is no more thousand of charismatic kids live around the neighboring villages. Another attractive feature of Pench is its vicinity to Nagpur Airport which is just 90 km away.
Tadoba is a recent success with a phenomenal number of sightings of the big cat. The tourism infrastructure is fast developing and attracting a large number of inbound tourists from many countries. It is about 140 km from Nagpur Airport.
Other Popular National Parks are:
Periyar National Park
Manas
Namdhapha
Wayanad
Nagzira Navegaon
Bandipur
Nagarhole
Mudumalai
Eravikulam
These destinations attract tourism on an impressive scale with unique sightings and wildlife experiences. They have a well-developed tourism infrastructure and can be reached easily.
Choosing Best Destination
If the tiger is the main focus, choose the first list for making a decision. Base your decision on the ranking factors listed above. Holidaymakers have their own reason for visiting wildlife places for recreation and rest. But if you consider the factors described above you will be able to have a good wildlife experience and tiger spotting of course. Choose a place based on your own preference besides the suggestions made here.
For travelers not interested in making their own arrangements package tours are the best. There are many package tour operators in India that provide good service. They can be verified using testimonials and TripAdvisor reviews or using references from friends and relatives.
The strip of pristine Sal forests was once the hunting reserve of Maharajahs of Rewa Estate during the pre-independence period. The last Maharajah was a hunter turned conservationist, and is credited with discovering and nurturing the white tiger. Mohan, the white tiger cub was found in the forests of Sidhi an hour's drive from Bandhavgarh then contiguous.
Mohan was raised at Govindgarh Fortress by the Maharajah, and all the white tigers around the World are his progeny. Without much scientific pursuit, Maharajah Martandsinghji raised and increased the population, thanks to his understanding of big cat behavior and diligence. The strip of Sal forests where the cub was discovered is now known as Sanjay Dubri National Park. Both parks are situated in Central India in the state of Madhya Pradesh.
Bandhavgarh Civilization Where Time Stands Still
Much before the white cub was discovered in these contiguous forests tribes had found succor in the deep confines of the Sal forests. There were two prominent reasons for the existence of civilization in the inaccessible forests of Bandhavgarh.
Primary reason was based on the security provided by the steep cliffs and tabletop mountains without access. The reason was to avoid conflicts with neighboring tribes, and kingdoms. Bandhavgarh Fort at the height of 800 plus MSL provided an easy lookout to thwart invasions.
It was the Gond Tribes aligned with Rajputs that built the first structures, this was perhaps more than two thousand years back. The mention in ancient Hindu Scriptures date around two thousand years. As the story goes Lord Ram during his exile gifted the Fort to brother Laxman hence the name.
At heights, time stands still and you can experience the ambiance as it was back before humans arrived. Now your company will be zoomorphic idols and wild animals.
Recent Archeological Discoveries at Bandhavgarh
Most of the structures are carved out of the igneous rocks prevailing in the region. The civilizational remains are spread out over a large region covering more than 2000 sq.km. While Fort Complex was known from earlier times including the magnificent idols of Lord Vishnu in zoomorphic forms new artifacts and structures have been discovered recently by the ASI or Archeological Survey of India.
Based on newspaper reports, Hindu Temples, idols, inscriptions on stones, and cave walls have been discovered recently. ASI has also found Buddhist Stupas in the region authenticating Buddhist influence in the region.
Recent discoveries include:
26 Hindu Temples
Two Monastries
19 Reservoirs
Votive Stupas
24 Inscriptions
46 Sculptures
26 Caves
More is expected to be discovered making Bandhavgarh a treasure trove of ancient civilizational remains. The period mentioned dates to Raja Bhimsena, Maharajah Potteseri & Maharajah Bhattdeva of Kalchuri Dynasties. Some remains date back to the 2nd or 3rd Century AD. Some of the manmade caves date back to the 2nd Century BC highlighting civilization dating such a long time back.
The link from India Times News elaborates the discoveries for the readers.
Turbulence in Sylvan Surroundings
The remote and peaceful confines of the Bandhavgarh Forests were not very peaceful as such due to the constant internecine battles that raged between different dynasties that had come to rule the Bandhavgarh Fort, now in complete ruins. Stables, courts, ramparts, and cave shelters are all suggestive of an expanded turbulent era.
The Baghels were the last to rule this tribal refuge, and Maharajah Martandsinghji was the last ruler of the region. The Baghels had shifted their capital to Rewa a long time back, but the fort complex was well looked after. A Ram Laxman Janki Temple still stands as a testimony. However, most of the remains were out of human capacity to preserve due to inaccessibility and extreme climatic conditions. Air and water erosion brought lot many structures and artifacts to dust.
The Pujari
The royals still pay for the priestly service at the Hindu temple. The old Pujari a legendary figure who trudged the tiger-infested forests for the temple's upkeep is no more. His son now follows the same routine without fail.
Most charismatic sights greet tourists now, especially the spectacle at Sesh Shaiyya or reclining Vishnu. The fort complex is out of bounds, but the zoomorphic idols of Lord Vishu are well preserved. I was lucky to visit the fort complex a couple of decades back.
Bandhvagarh Tiger Refuge
The destination is now a tiger reserve and a National Park and is home to enchanting biodiversity and the Bengal Tiger. Only the forest staff shares accommodation with the big cats and the civilizational structures are completely bereft of human presence.
The tiger rules over the dizzy heights of the park's 32 steep cliffs and breeds in the panoramic landscape. The reserve is a biodiversity hub with more than 22 Central India Mammals, reptiles, insects, and avians. The floral habitats and the mountain rivers support incredible wilderness in an area comprising more than 1100 sq. km.
Except for the forest guards and tourists in 20 % of the core, the belligerent erstwhile soldiers and their rulers are nowhere in the picture, the only conquest that is slated at Bandhavgarh is the conservation of the endangered species.
Exploring Bandhavgarh
Tourism is organized at Bandhavgarh National Park every year. You can explore the pristine paradise by booking a permit at MPOnline Portal belonging to MP State. Day and evening safaris are organized in open jeeps and canters. But please book well in advance including the hotel accommodations in the buffer region.
Park is closed during the monsoon from 1 July to 30th September. You can reach the destination from Jabalpur Airport at 170 km or from the neighboring cities of Satna and Katni. Jabalpur provides the best access for inbound tourists from overseas.
Hectic urban life comes to a standstill as you set foot into the realm
of the tribal and the tiger.
All alone, I stood on the
tabletop mountain, transfixed by the looming spectacle of Lord Vishnu Idol on
the precipice. For a small-time travel writer, losing oneself in the void is
awe-inspiring, and a pathway to creativity.
As we traverse through the passage of life, we realize that some moments
are indelible, and even in a state of memory flux, they hang onto you like an
old family portrait on the wall. I could visualize the historical moment more
than two thousand years back when the zoomorphic idol was deftly carved out of
the igneous rock and placed on the precipice. As you stand aside the lion-faced
Visnu idol, you can visualize the Universe below your feet, and above you, the
massive ball of fire blood-soaked to the brim reminds you that life is real.
Bandhavgarh Grassland
The statue hung in a timeless
space all around me dwelling in eternity in an ambiance of absolute silence and
serenity. Bandhavgarh is one place in India where art and history come together
in the remote wilderness. Driven by passion and faith, the tribal of
Bandhavgarh carved timeless masterpieces that still linger like a nature quiz
with many questions unanswered.
With all the available land in
the open plains, why did the tribal venture deep into the forest to create this
fascinating architectural complex? It
was certainly a matter of faith, and the zoomorphic idols and the ancient
structures are a bold statement. Another reason was to avoid the ravage
of frequent wars with the neighboring clans.
Bengal Tiger
The aging rock structures are all
black, buff, and steel blue colored by the vermillion paste and impregnating
layers of microscopic vegetation. Well preserved, somewhat pock marked by
erosion, the zoomorphic idols are the road to the rediscovery of our ancient
culture.
The inert, aging, idols are a
rejuvenating sight when you venture into the mystical land. Bandhavgarh Fort
hangs in total ruins in the large complex,
but scattered architectural marvels have survived the evolutionary
forces that prevail on the Earth. In life nothing is permanent, but
incredulously these idols seem to overpower the phenomenon called change. Lord
Vishnu manifests here as tortoise, fish, boar, and lion. The aging brick walls,
large reservoirs, and crumbling temple structures are found all around the
complex. Only three temples stand in a perfect state of preservation perhaps built much later by a victorious Maharajah. Laxman Temple stands apart and is much visited by locals on holy occasions. A priest trudges 11km from the Tala village to tend to the Hindu temple. Tigers hide in the grassland and prowl all around the complex, they
frequent the place to breed and hunt. The place is out of bounds for tourists
now. Tigers rule Bandhvagarh!
Bandhavgarh More Than
A Tiger Land
Gond tribal inhabited this land, and
ruled over the vast stretch of forests that have now been fractured and culled
beyond our imagination. Bandhavgarh is the land of the tiger, but it is much
more. On one visit it becomes apparent that the paradise holds sights of wild
animals, birds, and ancient marvels that are going to make your holiday in the
wild incredulous.
Historical scars proliferate the
ruins and depict tales of conquests and defeats. Many dynasties came to rule
the region and were vanquished when overpowered. Situated at the height of 800
MSL the highest mountain is called Bandhavgarh which gave the tiger reserve and
National Park its name. All around are steep cliffs and tabletop mountains
embedded amidst the forest glades and deep glens fed by sparking mountain
rivulets that create an absorbing panoramic landscape. The picturesque terrain
is a spectacle beyond belief, and it excites the sensory apparatus at one
go. The mountain fort at the top was a
gift to brother Laxman by Lord Rama as the story goes and hence named
Bandhavgarh (Bandhav = brother, Garh=Fort). A large crowd of tribal and locals walk
through the forest and negotiate the steep ascent to the fort during Ram Navmi
and other Hindu festivals as an annual pilgrimage. On that day, the
out-of-bound tiger reserve is open to the pious.
Sesh Shaiyya or Reclining Vishnu
lies midway, a thankful respite for the weary pilgrims. While the fort complex
is out of bounds for the tourists Shesh
Shaiyya is not. It is a fairy tale grove shaded by Jamun and Sal towering over
an inert pool covered with moss and algae.
A twenty feet reclining idol of
Lord Vishnu crowned by a multiheaded cobra lies beside the pool. Water trickles
down like a minuscule fall from between thick ferns and grass creating a
mesmerizing spectacle. This is the spot to be to realize the essence of this
enchanting paradise. Traces of
vermillion, scattered flowers, and exhausted incense sticks indicate that the
fort priests and tourists on tiger safari pray to the Lord on frequent visits.
Hinduism is a colorful religion with ample freedom to pray with few
restrictions.
Situated in Central India, Bandhavgarh National Park is ideal for tiger safari holidays. One needs to book
permits and accommodations in advance. The park is closed during the monsoon
from July to September end.
For booking holidays contact MP Tiger Safari
Company: +91 8889469120
Kipling Country Geography - Central Indian Highlands
Although Kipling's Jungle Book revolves around Seoni Hills, the turbulent tiger landscape was a part of the Central Indian Highlands a contiguous forest patch encompassing more than 10000 sq. km. The Sal, Teak, and mixed forests are home to incredible biodiversity in the State of Madhya Pradesh. Incidentally, Seoni Hills now encompass Pench Tiger Reserve where BBC filmed the famous documentary "The Spy in The Jungle".
The Central Indian Highlands were much accounted for by Captain James Forsyth a British explorer in the 18th Century in his book the "Highlands of Central India". The primary focus of the narrative was the terrain, wildlife, and humans of Satpura Range which meets Vindhya Range at Maikal Hills in Amarkantak.
Tiger
In the context of habitat continuity and matching terrain, it is difficult to limit Kipling Country to any particular region in Central India that formally straddled the Vidharbha region as well. The region comprises similar habitats with a little variance except for the niche ecosystems at places due to the impact of local geography and floral content.
Maps portraying the geographical boundaries of present-day India differed from antecedents during British Rule. While it is meaningless to broach this topic, the author wishes to redefine Kipling's Country from a true geographical perspective and allay the conflict regarding the placement of Kipling Country. The geographical composition that Kipling pens in all the chapters of "Jungle Book" is prevalent from the origin of the Satpura to the whole of Vindhya an interconnected region now irrevocably fragmented.
“If history were taught in the form of stories, it would never be forgotten.”
― Rudyard Kipling, The Collected Works
Kipling's Personification of Wild Animals
Sher Khan the antihero is a legendary tertiary carnivore ironically crowned King of the jungle by man and is now critically endangered. The antihero fits well in the epic in the human context since Kipling skillfully brought forth the denizens of the jungle into life with their portrayal based as humans. Anyway, a story does well with a well-defined hero as the central character and an adversary hell-bent on destroying the hero and usurping all the goodies that come along with a win.
The personification of wild animals though a brilliant piece of work is nothing new, and in time immemorial the personification is apparent in the Holy Ramayana a factual narrative. While the phenomenon is attributed to the Supreme in the latter, Kipling's portrayal is a masterstroke of esoteric fiction. No wonder the Nobel Laurette was a genius of his times. It is difficult for a human to transfer our behavioral characteristics to beings incapable of emotions related to premeditated responses like vengeance, lust, fear, happiness, sadness, and empathy.
“Words are, of course, the most powerful drug used by mankind.”
― Rudyard Kipling
Kipling successfully endowed these behavioral characteristics to wild animals in his epic novel. No wonder the write-up was a legendary success despite being based in a dark time of extreme poverty and foreign subjugation. The human portrayal does not reflect the times since the very concept of the book dwells in the esoteric. Kiping was a white supremacist as I read in some articles, nevertheless, Indians have built a museum in his honor. Even after 75 years of independence, we are not able to shrug off the traits that define slave mentality, and for many, the white man stays superior. Indians are susceptible to non-native esoteric ideologies that flout native concepts. (All the creation and infrastructure during the Raj has come at a cost and the natives paid a heavy price for that to the erstwhile masters.) (And we still goad over the gifts).
The Jungle Book narrative is excellent for imaginary recreational pursuit but it does carry a wrong message.
Victimizing the Tiger & Impact of Literature
The tiger is, by all means, an animal considered at the top of the food pyramid, and labeled as King of the jungle. Nonetheless, he is portrayed as an antihero thirsting for the manchild's blood. The portrayal in several folklores including modern portrayals like in the Jungle Book has victimized the animal no end. This characterization of the big cat stems from the age-old threat perception of predators during those times in many parts of the World. The tiger in India was relentlessly slaughtered in the guise of human safety, its habitat destroyed as an agrarian necessity, and hunted down to prove killer instinct and masculinity in young officers during the Raj.
I read a book by an Indian author stating that in a period of ten years around 25 thousand tigers were butchered for a small price paid to the hungry vermin killers. It is not only the economic price we have paid for slavery at hands of the Mughals and the British, the cultural and demographic sacrifices, and the human toll has exceeded the limits set by genocide in the present context.
Pachmarhi
Despite the absence of anti tiger narrative in the Hindu Pantheon, the Maharajahs and Indian elites were as much responsible for the pathetic status of the tiger in Pre and Post Independent India. It was pure recreation justified by the unchallenged power of the throne, bestowed masculine perceptions and the religious sanctities accorded by the priests. The Satraps left no stones unturned to please their masters during and even after the Raj. In post-independent India, substantial revenue was generated from tiger shoots besides the ongoing slaughter. It was the WPA 1972 that stemmed the rot. More than 3000 tigers survive today thanks to intense tiger conservation.
Akela The Wolf & Other Predators
Akela's paternal endearment towards Mowgli, acceptance as a pack member, and Baloo and Bagheera's emotional attachment to the naked child are the personification of the human form. But ironically, the depiction clearly points toward the superiority of humans over lesser beings. We have yet to acknowledge that Earth belongs to all life forms. Baloo the bear, and Baghira are badly treated in human confines and the latter is on verge of extinction in India.
The story portrays Kaa the python, Tabaqui (Jackal), and other birds and animals as ugly and evil and this does not help in changing human perceptions about these beautiful creatures. Though there was no malicious intent as far as the book is concerned the characterization does no good. The predators are now on the list of critically endangered animals.
Highlands of Central India
This amazing landscape described above encompasses many tiger reserves and hill resorts. The reserves are home to the tiger and many species of mammals, insects, reptiles, and birds.
The reserves are wild holiday hotspots where tiger safari and birding trips are organized. All the holiday destinations are picturesque, and home to some spectacular panoramic spectacles. Tourism is well organized in these remote destinations, and there is a rush during the holidays and in the winter season. Unlike overcrowded hill resorts, tiger reserves are protected by limiting human entry and the safari is an experience in isolation since the jeeps rarely club together. Sooner or later the authorities will have to curb movement in the hill resorts as well.
Places of Interest
Nauradehi Wildlife Sanctuary
Panna Tiger Reserve
Bandhavgarh National Park
Pench National Park
Kanha Tiger Reserve
Satpura Tiger Reserve
Pachmarhi Hill Resort
Amarkantak Hill Resort
Sanjay Dubri National Park
Prior booking is advised for holiday making in these destinations. Tiger safari is organized only for permit holders. Permits are issued by MP State Government on MPOnline Portal. One must visit the hill resorts in summers but never during the holiday period, and thus, prevent stress on the infrastructure and the environment as well. Unfortunately, the hill resorts in Madhya Pradesh experience a greater rush during the weekends and the winter holidays.
Some family safe properties are :
Jabalpur/Nauradehi - Krisha Hotel & Culchuri (MPTDC) Jabalpur
Pachmarhi - (MPTDC Hotels)
Pench -Mowgli's Den, Jungle Home Pench & Tathastu Resort
Driving through the wonderful Jabalpur-Shahpura highway is a picturesque treat to the eyes and the soul. Tree-lined and with not much traffic you get a holiday feel while driving. Yes, a holiday mood sets the mind right, and brings joy and peace, and so does this ride on a smooth road. The Jabalpur-Shahpura Highway (70km) leads to Ghagua Fossil Park, a land containing fossils dating back 60 million years. The fossils are plant-based and in a perfect state of preservation, a short halt is good for freshening up, and for a visit to the museum and exploring the fossils.
All through the drive, green fields, rustic hamlets, and tabletop mountains enhance your pleasure. In many places, the tree-lined forests are reminders of days whence the whole area was densely forested. Nevertheless, it is one of the best ways of reaching Bandhavgarh National Park situated in Madhya Pradesh.
Leopard at Bandhavgarh
Shahpura to Umaria
The drive from Shahpura to Umaria is palpable, a space without much urbanity in the picture. The isolated villages surrounded by green fields with ubiquitous pole fences full of cattle, and a makeshift cattle yard in most of the larger houses take you back to an earlier period when the time stood still as the urbanity had not yet made inroads. A bit paradoxical to call the drive into the interiors frozen in time nevertheless the indolent lifestyle cannot be experienced in the busy urbanity of the country.
Except for the villages and small townships, the rest of the 82 km drive is through the forests. The drive literally delivers a picture of what awaits upon reaching the holiday destination. The townships offer a hint of time changing albeit at a snail’s pace. Normally dusty, with clusters of ill-designed and ill-planned antiquated thatched or tiled roof houses that smack of urbanity slowly making inroads, they still appear to be out of sync with modern agglomerations in India.
Bandhavgarh
You can make a refreshing stop at a small but quaint MPTDC Resorts before Shahpura. It serves fresh snacks like idli, poha, and sandwiches along with hot chai or coffee. My bet was on sizzling hot pakoras served with chutney after eons of wait. If you are not hungry buy a packet of chips or peanuts and a cola to while away the time. The mountain landscape and a large man-made reservoir capped by a broad vista of tall trees on the road create picturesque settings for tired travelers.
Much cheaper options are the tea stalls at Shahpura the places sans the toilets are right on the street but some of them sell fresh hot vegetable pakoras and samosa that can make your day. Near the forest office, a diversion leads to Umaria which is at a distance of 50 km. From Umaria, the drive to Tala is 32 km most of it through the outskirts of the National Park.
The whole drive is reminiscent of holiday tours when I was young in the seventies, the countryside was a lot greener due to dense forest patches all along the way. The complete lack of urbanity, metal roads, and quaint but primitive dwellings full of shy rustic inhabitants smacked of dismal backwardness to tourists in small cars that were popular in those days. The vehicles available with the taxi services in those days were Fiat and the rugged Ambassadors. In spite of the shock absorbers, the automobiles skidded and rebounded mercilessly on the unkempt metal pathways breaking every bone in the body. The noise inside the cars was of a terrifying decibel, and it corresponded with the jumps and bumps that we frequently encountered. The drive-by any means in sedans and luxury cars also used as taxis are much more enjoyable these days.
Some modern amenities like cold beverages, basic medicines, and FMCG products are available in the roadside villages nowadays. The navigation through these townships is usually on a single narrow metal road. One has to be cautious driving through cow-littered roads and clusters of shops and houses. One element that I strive to see is the gaudy yellow stripped statues of tigers usually made of clay near the roadsides. Indians venerate all life forms, and the big cat holds a significant place in the Hindu pantheon. Ascribed the role of a vehicle for the Goddess, the idols refer to a period whence the tigers were everywhere in India. The figures are a sad reminder of what we practice alongside the preaching.
As you cross over the hamlets, the absence of cow dung and trash is a visible relief after a suffocating intersection. Before you reach Umaria, a jungle road leads to an ancient temple chiseled out of igneous rock which I have visited once. Ensconced in an enchanting grove surrounded by forests the temple is a pretty sight. It dates back to the 10th Century built perhaps by the Culchuris, the same ruling dynasty that built the Khajuraho Temples.
After a short visit, you drive on to reach the Umaria Town, HQ of Umaria District in Madhya Pradesh. The Bandhavgarh FD Office is situated in this town. Preferred for consumer purchases, the town is cluttered and crowded at most junctions, it is a big disappointment for holidaymakers but then you get some modern consumables here. Make necessary purchases at Umaria before embarking to Tala township on the outskirts of Bandhavgarh National Park. Use ATM or banking facilities if required. Umaria is a railhead and those who travel by rail alight here. The town is well connected by busses that ply on the road network and by the trains. Taxi services for long-distance travel are also available here.
Thankfully, a side road with less traffic leads to the Tala - Manpur Road. Tala is a micro township situated at the doorstep of the tiger reserve. The 32 km drive is pleasant green and as usual, comprises humanity and fields. The forests become apparent from Dhamokhar Range (11km) which is now included in the buffer zone for safari. Successful conservation measures have created a corridor for big cats of Bandhavgarh, and sighting does take place here. So drive slowly from here onwards since your safari has begun. Keep an eye on the roadside forests to sight a tiger or a sambar deer. After the local extinction, 50 Gaur have been relocated here and they can now be seen at Bhadrashila a small reservoir again. These massive beasts although gentle can be ferocious when disturbed so drive past if you come across them.
From here onwards you get a glimpse of the steep cliffs and tabletop mountains that are a characteristic feature of this wild heaven. The drive turns into an exotic experience with an aura of grandeur cast by the cliffs. There are 32 steep cliffs that are spread across the reserve. They create an impression of magnificence as you drive through them during the excursions in the core.
As you drive on towards the township, on the right is the MP Forest Rest House - the only accommodation years back whence tourism was at a nascent stage. It is reserved for officials and VIP Guests now. A little ahead, the township comprising of shops, and cluttered dwellings greet you. Old isolated huts suffocatingly squeezed now in between more stylish shops, and small restaurants selling various goods, You will overtake the Maharani Kothi, the Royal dwelling of erstwhile HH Queen of Rewa Estate. Part of the property has been converted to a resort and is much visited.
Tala Gate is the entrance to the Tala Zone of the park for excursions. If you have not booked a safari permit for Bandhavgarh then you book it here. Twenty percent of the park's core area is reserved for tourism. Tourism is also organized in the buffer. Each tourism zone has a separate entrance.
Most of the hotels and resorts are situated near the Tala township while some are placed further in different locations. It is advisable to book the safari permits and the hotel accommodations much in advance.
Jeep Safari
Bandhavgarh resorts and hotels offer various packages for a stay that range from budget to super luxurious. The best is to visit websites on the net and discover one that suits your style and the pocket.
Some of the accommodations here are a treat and can make your holiday a big success but please do not expect low prices since managing properties and serving food in remote locations requires a lot of resources. Choose a place with classic traditional interiors and exteriors away from Tala to experience local surroundings and architecture these properties nevertheless are equipped with all modern amenities and some offer great service.
If you wish to stay near Tala the Tiger Den is best. I love to stay at this resort for the great service and food. It is well structured with a manicured garden hence the outside noise does not make inroads.
For tiger safari, an extended stay of a week or more is recommended for wildlife enthusiasts, professional photographers, and filmmakers. Holidaymakers usually stay for 2 or 3 days.
Jabalpur Airport and Railway Station are well connected with Mumbai, Kolkatta, Bangalore, Chennai, Hyderabad, and some other destinations. The drive to Bandhavgarh is four hours via Shahpura-Umaria Highway.
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Uday is a blogger and offers Seo + Content For Digital Marketing Services.
He teaches digital marketing (SEO) in Jabalpur.
He freelances as a naturalist/birder at Kanha National Park. He loves to write about travel.
TOFT Award Winner earlier worked as Sr. Naturalist at Kanha Tiger Reserve in Central India. Also a birding guide.
I also provide Internet Marketing (SEO) Services and website content writing in English. At present, he provides SEO and Content Writing Services to Above the Fold Agency in Mumbai.
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