Up in the Mountains

The road rises steeply as you climb up from Nainital, it curves and bends viciously as you move further up. This is the road to Pangot a hill resort chiefly visited by birders. On the way up the frightening climb, one comes across the spectacular view of the Himalayan Ranges and the Nainital District in Uttarakhand.

Many tourists from Nainital below climb halfway up to see this panoramic splendor of the Himalayas - if not engulfed by the fog. Layers of mountain ranges precede the magnificent range adding to the beauty of the landscape.

It snows in Pangot just any time as late as April making the drive a difficult proposition. A snowstorm can completely block the road to Pangot and tourists have to be evicted on foot - a long arduous walk. Make sure of the weather, the destination can be very gloomy and depressing whence engulfed by clouds and fog.   

The Pangot village is a sleepy place with few resorts that offer accommodation for birders. All around, the high-rise mountains surround the village situated on a plateau. When the snow falls, the mountain tops reflect strands of stark sunlight on the ground below that further enliven the scape. The slopes are covered by a dense forest of pine, birch, and oak and the ice stands out in contrast to lively green, the spectacle can best be described as mesmerizing. 

On a sunny day, the drive to the highest point Vinayak can be rewarding. This is where you get the best view of the Himalayas, the large span of the range stretches your eyes as you gaze at the unfolding panorama.  On the way, you come across barren mountains near the Gughu Khan a small sleepy hamlet with few chai shops that offer succor from the bitter cold. The cheer pheasant point allures birders to get a glimpse of the enigmatic cheer pheasant on the grassy slopes of the mountains. This bird is a rare sight and along with the Koklass Pheasant forms the birders' catch.    

The Himalayan Griffons and Lammergeier soar amidst the empty spaces of mountains over the steep valleys. They rise on the thermals and dip down into the valley searching for food displaying their amazing flying skills and rapacious strike power. Lammergeiers are known to pick up prey as big as lamb hence the name.  At night one can get a glimpse of the leopard and rare mountain wildlife. 

The landscape is dotted with small hamlets, a mix of forested and grassy slopes. In the deep valleys, rivulets crisscross through the maze of slaty stones in complete silence. The ethereal silence is a golden rule here and all elements seem to be at a standstill, frozen in time and space.  

The glaring sun creates a vivid pattern of light and shade on the slopes. The early morning light barely reaches the glens the effect is a ghostly contrast to the lively sky above.  

All around Pangot birds call at their best and the vivid colors that traverse through the canopies are a delight not only for birders but even for the nonchalant holidaymakers. From my resort Birding Lodge, I can see streamlined mountains and a long-pitched valley at the other end which is the Corbett Tiger Reserve. 

It is best to visit Pangot in winter for bird watching. The destination offers peace and tranquility to holidaymakers and honeymooners. Long walks at Kilbury or a drive to Bagger can be a pleasing experience. Pangot at a height of 2300 MSL is at a distance of 14 km from Nainital Township.   

Nainital Tour

As we climbed up the road to Pangot from Nainital township the landscape began to change. The snow all along the road made matter worse. But the driver of our bus handling the vehicle expertly and we were assured. The tourist from UK had never experienced all this. 

As you climb higher on the road to Pangot the sight of Himalayan Range is breathtaking. One can see a long stretch of the magnificent Himalayan Range if there are no clouds. breathtaking is what my guests described it as.

Pangot is about fourteen km from Nainital township and is visited most by birders. Birding is the major activity at this hamlet. It snows in Pangot albeit less frequently sometimes blocking the road to Nainital township. Major birding stops are Kilbury, Bagad, Vinayak, Gugghu Khan and the township itself. 

The place clean and unspoiled by ubiquitous plastic that you see everywhere in the district of Nainital. The plastic is littered everywhere in rivulets, roads and countryside. It is surprising that no removal system exists since Nainital is a prime tourist destination. Most of the visitors are young couples on honeymoon. The inbound tourists from foreign countries come here mostly for birding at Sat Tal and Pangot. 

The next destination is Corbett Tiger Reserve for tiger safaris and birding as well. Corbett is a well known destination.  As a tour escort of destination management company I enjoy visits to Nainital. Most of my tours are for bird watching and it is exciting to be at Sattal, Pangot and Corbett National Park.   

North India Travel

Traveling is one way of experiencing India well only way perhaps. My recent travel along North Corridor for birding was a delightful experience. The trip starts at New Delhi and goes long like a maze. The birding circuit often covers Corbett Tiger Reserve, Sat Tal, Pangot, Chambal River Sanctuary, Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary and adjoining places of birding interest. Agra of course Taj & Fateh Pur Sikri & Red Fort + Lunch.   

India has an impressive list of birds and it is a sheer delight to see them. The bird heavens are still in preserved state. But we may loose some until unless we care for our wilderness both in towns and hill resorts. 

As tour escort at service for people from far and wide, I love to see our beloved country through scope of others. The colors and flavors of India touch one and all. The diversity amazes visitors the amazing pot pourri and a mixed basket of throbbing life. The food is delicious! "Why serve us continental food we prefer Indian gastronomic delights?" "Please lot of Masala!" "Tandoori Aha!"

No wonder India is Incredible by all means augmented by our warmth, hospitality and love.  But then India is also a chaos of traffic jams, road blocks, bumps, loud speakers, rude drivers, dirt, filth and loo on the roads.  The sewage, nullahs and roadside reek of thousand tons of caramelized shit! Yeek!  As much as India amazes the disgust on the negative is apparent. Though politely  set aside there are sometimes remarks.

My answers

"A large number of people. You know!"

"Poverty!"

"Illiteracy!"

What else! Just see the swanky New Delhi International Airport ....can't we change our country for much better this way. Can't some of us handle waste better...at number of places the Use Me container lies vacant with rubbish all around. Sometimes it is over filled with no service to dispatch it. One can go on. Yes most of us are doing our bit perhaps doing more and more is for better. 

Anyway I still recollect the colors of rural India some very clean villages and lush green fields. The visitors  appreciate and are intrigued with life so different from modern India. 

"Look there are so many people in bazaars, but every one is working!"

"Look so many people on trains, buses, rickshaws!"..Click, click, click.     

"An Indian Wedding?" "Oh Yes!" Click click click..

"A religious procession?" "Oh Yes!" Click click click
"Children going to school everywhere. Great!" 

The is stunning ...the long stretch of ghostly white Himalayas on way up to Pangot at Naini Tal District.     

Birding in India is thrilling and so is Indian Wildlife. Hence an extension to Kanha National Park in MP. Another experience the chaos and turbulence of crowd on Railway Stations. The confusing movement of trains across many platforms. Our very own Great Indian Railway a transportation wonder that moves India. From the impoverished settlements of Industrial towns the scape leads to beautiful surrounds of rural India and some stunning landscapes. The first AC coach offers lot of comfort not withstanding the toilet.    

The extension benefits the Indian package tour operator but onus lies on me to track the tiger. Nevertheless we see one in spite of bad weather. Another stunning masterpiece of nature the charismatic tiger! In absolute rapture!

"It is India wildlife tour next"! Shout my guests filled up to the brim with the magical appearance of the tiger.  

Incredible India! Yes lets make it better and better!

Tourism in Gujarat

Unlike other tourist destinations like Kerala, Rajasthan Eastern and Northern India and Madhya Pradesh, Gujarat is not very popular. The major places of attraction are Gir National Park famous for Lion Safaris, Dwarka, Girnar near Junagadh, Somnath Temple and Rann of Kutch.

The people of Gujarat are travel lovers. They travel to many destinations in India during holidays for wildlife safaris and sightseeing.

The state has many other lesser known places of interest forts, palaces, beach resorts and many wildlife and bird sanctuaries. Saputara is Gujarat's only hill station and sits on the last leg of Western Ghats. There are many beach resorts in the state most popular amongst them are Chorwad, Mandvi, Beyt Dwarka, Nargol and Dandi beaches in Surat and many more.

While Dwarka, Girnar and Somnath in Veraval are places of pilgrimage, Gir and Rann of Kutch are ecotourism destinations the latter for birding. Union territories Daman, Diu are quite popular for tourism.  In the state spiritual tours to pilgrimage centers are very popular. There are many temples and derasar in the state belonging to Jains and Hindus that are very popular religious destinations.  

Gujarat has unique wildlife: Asiatic Lion at Gir, Black Buck, Caracal, Indian Gazelle, Wild Ass, Leopard, Desert Foxes, Nilgai, Indian Wolf and many small mammals.   

At Narayan Sarovar all three endangered bustards are found along  Black Partridge. One can sight Hubara Bustard, Great Indian Bustard and Lesser Florican. Little Rann of Kutch is breeding grounds for greater and lesser Flamingos. One can see Flamingos, Pelican and  other  wetland birds at Nal Sarovar and Thol. Velavadar is home to Black Bucks while Indian wild ass lives in Narayan Sarovar Wildlife Sanctuary.


Nal Sarovar, Thol and Little Rann of Kutch are finest birding destinations.  This region is being promoted for bird watching in Gujarat state in Western India. Many species of birds some of which are endemic are found in the state. 

There are many historical monuments scattered all across the state, besides parks and gardens. For recreation in Gujarat  there are many luxury spa resorts in natural heavens. These are situated near major towns like Ahmedabad. The resorts and spas are popular for holiday accommodation, business travel and conferences, weddings and spa facilities. Some of the resorts are super luxurious with five star amenities. 

The major towns are Ahmedabad, Vadodara, Surat and Rajkot. The state has finest roads and  well laid tourism infrastructure - hotels, resorts, airports, rail heads and road transport. The government is taking keen interest in developing tourism in the state.

Nainital Bird Heaven

From Kathgudam onwards the height appears striking. One can see steep rising hills with  tortuous winding road network. The climb up is steep and can be risky as the barriers on the side are missing at places. The driver of our bus drove with confidence and practiced fluency.  I held myself taught, not used to such heights and the plunging deep valleys. 

The place disappoints, we were going to Sat Tal which is some 14 km from Nainital. On my first visit I realized that Nainital was no more a tourist heaven it is more of a builders' paradise. Most of the hills have human dwellings - even flat systems. The sight is disappointing since few green patches remain. 

All the way through this part of Uttaranchal, I could see devastating effect of urbanization - unplanned and rampant. This was not what Jim Corbett had described in his books on man eating tigers and leopards. The urbanization certainly means end of the road for natural environment here. The lack of right policy regarding development in tourism zones  is apparent in this country.    

Sat Tal in Naini Tal district is a birders paradise still. The worst are the garbage  dumps - conspicuous by their absence. Whole surroundings are littered by plastic bags  - the quantity is astonishing. 

Kainchi Dham were we go for birding exhibits a rabid example of this, the rivulet is choked with plastic bags, litter and no one bothers. The tree line of the banks is receding and settlements are replacing them. The same devastation is apparent at Sat Tal township which is bustling with hotels, restaurants, colonization and private villas and what not. Thankfully Pachmarhi in MP has been saved from this scourge being a cantonment and a wildlife sanctuary that begins immediately.  

Naini Tal township is literary a Bhendi bazaar, a mad milieu of tourists creating chaos. During my birding tours we have avoided this township which reeks of stuffed houses, choked bazaars and settlements littered with garbage on roofs and everywhere. Once a nature's paradise no more now.    

Pangot at greater height is untouched by ravages of uncontrolled tourism. But the forest denudation at places is of concern. I have seen hillsides occupied by settlements that are completely devoid of vegetation. Pangot offers mesmerizing view of Himalayan Ranges and is home to unique species of animals and birds. 

Corbett Tiger Reserve retains much of its glory in the core areas and the surroundings. But expanding civilization and urbanity sounds a death knell for this beautiful tiger heaven. The reserve is home to large number of bird species and falls in popular birding circuit in India.         

Many tour operators conduct bird watching tours  in Northern India. On a bird watching trip one can checklist a very large number of avian species.  But forest denudation is slowly destroying the habitats of birds in our country.
 

Gujarat Wildlife & Birding Tourism

Though still not a very popular travel destination in India Gujarat has lots to offer. It is not only the holy pilgrimage to Krishna's Dwarka, Gujarat state is one of the finest birding and wildlife destination in India. The Dwarkadhish Temple is built in he honor of Lord Krishna and is visited by thousands of pilgrims ever year.

Gujarat also boasts of a marine National Park at Pirotan of the Jamnagar coast. Apart from mind boggling marine life forms birds such as Flamingos, Godwits, Puffins, Cranes, Herring Sea Gulls, Blackhead Gulls, Crab Plovers and other interesting wetland avifauna can be seen here with ease.

Wildlife & Birding

Gir National Park is the home of Asiatic Lion the only one in the World. About 350 lions survive in this National Park in Western India. The park is close to the district of Junagadh and is famous for lion safaris in Gujarat in India. Gir National Park is an excellent among top birding tour destinations in India with wide variety of bird species seen. Animals seen in wildlife sanctuaries and National Parks in Gujarat are Lion, Leopard, Sloth Bear, Hyena, Wild Ass, Caracal, Indian Wolf, Blue Bull, Sambar Deer and Spotted Deer. Many lesser mammals like chinkara, jungle cats and other species can be sighted in many places in Gujarat in India.

Little Rann of Kutch this magnificent salt desert is home to Greater and Lesser Flamingos which breed here. Indian Wild Ass, Great Indian Bustard, Hubara Bustard and Macqueen's Bustard are found here. The Rann of Kutch is home to great number of birds . I t is included in itinerary of western India birding tours by package tour operators in India.


Among well known birding destinations in India are Velavadar, Dassada, Nal Sarovar and Thol apart from Gir and Rann of Kutch. Besides Bustards and Flamingos one can see variety of birds in Gujarat - pelicans, geese, wintering ducks, desert birds, and many forest and wetland birds in India.


There is luxury and budget accommodation available in wildlife places and birding spots in Gujarat. Government based Gujarat Tourism corporation offers package tours and travel services to many destinations in the state.