Bandhavgarh: Down The Memory Lane on The Mountain Top

Kuttappan, Nair, Vithal, Shukla, and Thakur all names come alive when reminiscence strikes. On my first visit to Bandhavgarh National Park and a Tiger Reserve, I was hooked. "This is it!"I said to myself. Since then an nth number of visits have followed, and continue till this day. The characters named here were associates that turned the dream safaris into a reality in the tiger land.   

Whence you get the first glimpse of the mountains driving on the road to Tala from Umaria you feel like paradise is right here. It is!

Bandhavgarh is more than a tiger reserve, it is a hill resort and cradle of an ancient tribal civilization. The numerous telltale signs of ancient India, forts, caves shelters, idols, and temples all spring a surprise as you journey into the wilderness overgrown with herbs and shrubs, tall trees, and grass. 

Nevertheless, a perfect ecosystem, the mountain rivers add to the sheen and glamour of this panoramic wilderness in remote India. The drive in the undulating terrain created by geological upheaval from the day the Earth was born has created an amazing tapestry that mesmerizes at very first sight. The inaccessible heights remain as they were since the time of creation chiseled to perfection - the shapes and size - by indomitable forces of nature.   

Romance is instant, the hustle and bustle of a big town are left behind once you reach the park confines and absolute calm prevails in this amazing wilderness home of enchanting animals and birds. 

Reclining Vishnu

Whence you visit the structures in the park especially Shesh Shaiyya time comes to an absolute halt. The only living element besides you is the cool mountain breeze that brushes past you gently. The picturesque spot is a visit to witness esoteric emblems that have been seamlessly inserted into the surroundings such as to create oneness with nature. Modern architecture fails in this respect.  The grove is a blessing for the parched with aching limbs, and I lie down on the parapet of the encircling wall and fall in deep reverie. 

What do you do whence you come across the esoteric? 

You simply imbibe in absolute silence to enable your sensory apparatus to grasp and digest. Almost fairy tale atmosphere prevails at Sesh Shaiyya, the resting place of Lord Vishnu where he sleeps as a twenty feet reclining idol carved out of igneous rocks. Lying listlessly, the structure crowned with Sesh Nag (Cobra) is frozen in time awaiting resurrection perhaps. Nevertheless, fed by the mountain river Charanganga the magical lair comprises an algae-layered pond and fern-covered rocks on the mountainside. Lichens, fungi, and algae create a colorful mosaic in the surroundings like an artistic creation. The patterns on the rocks and the idol placed amidst the tropical greenery simply spellbind. The place dwells in an environment of absolute tranquility and peace. 

The only buzz of activity is the humming of the birds and bees and sometimes an occasional blood-curdling roar of the tiger. Then silence prevails...you can imagine the hoofs of horses as soldiers climb the tortuous ascent on the way to the fort at the top of the mountain. The cool ambiance of the place and water all around provided succor to tired soldiers returning from internecine wars. 

When you climb the fort, the World fades into a distance and everything appears alien till you reach the idol at the precarious edge of the mountain. The Idol looms large on the edge of the mountain weathering the winds. One look and then you realize that the World is real and ruled by celestial entities. Imagine!    

All alone, amidst the tall grass and azure blue sky above, the pathway seems to be the road to Nirvana. Be careful, tigers and leopards lurk around the bushes. My nerves rattle, and my mind is in delusion, but I keep pumping up ahead in the rising heat. I am searching for my photographer friend. And there she is a lady from the distant land of Germany.

The fort is in shambles with broken walls as evidence but the large reservoirs created more than 2000 years back still survive. So does the temple dedicated to Ram, Janki, and Laxman. The place is littered with broken structures...they are nevertheless captivating religious artifacts...Hinduism is a colorful religion and so are the paraphernalia and the rituals associated with the practice. It is all evident here at the top of Bandhavgarh Mountain on the premises of the ancient fort.

A gift to brother Laxman by Lord Ram an incarnation of Lord Vishnu, the fort is aptly named as such (Bandhav = brother, Garh = Fort). A fort for brother Laxman and true to the heavenly stature in essence the fort is very much alive. A pujari (Hindu Priest) walks for eleven kilometers through the absolute wilderness to pray in the land of the tiger. Stoic, unruffled by the big cats, snakes, and predators he has been conducting prayers ever since the erstwhile Maharajah of Rewa inducted him into the holy service. 

Zoomorphic idols of Lord Vishnu in various animal avatars are the object of extreme intrigue for the uninitiated and are not familiar with Hinduism's existential philosophy. The vast expanse of the place makes you feel tiny like a spec in the Universe. An eagle flying overhead its call ricocheting across steep cliffs creates a picture of heaven as we climb down the mountain.

*Note the fort is out of bounds now but you can drive up to reclining Vishnu. You will need a safari permit for Tala Range. Bandhavgarh is accessible by four hours drive from Jabalpur Airport in Central India or the State of Madhya Pradesh.                               

============================

================================================

Uday is a blogger and offers Seo + Content For Digital Marketing Services. 

He teaches digital marketing (SEO) in Jabalpur.

He freelances as a naturalist/birder at Kanha National Park. He loves to write on travel. 

He can be contacted at: 

pateluday90@hotmail.com

09755089323                 

Watching Tiger in a Romantic Getaway

I could barely believe my eyes, the paw marks were large enough to confirm the sighting. Just before my curiosity drew me to the spot where I was watching birds, a few men had looked down and then passed nonchalantly ahead. They were on a morning walk and from their nonchalance I could make out that the paw marks were a regular occurrence.

Doopgarh Pachmarhi 

I was not in a tiger land, I was at the edge of Pachmarhi Township buzzing with tourism activity. It was early in the morning, I was on a trip with my clients whence I met Puneet the ambitious owner of a busy resort named Golf View.   He became interested in hiring me as a bird guide for his beautiful hotel in Pachmarhi aptly named due to its proximity to a golf course in Pachmarhi Township.  

Tiger Pug Marks

The trip was supposed to test my birding skills, and we were on foot. This was against the advice Puneet had stressed upon. In the rugged landscape of steep jagged cliffs draped with tropical greenery and the serene ambiance of Pachmarhi my favorite hill resort in Central India, I decided not to be on a noisy vehicle. The town was sleeping as we left on foot with Puneet's jeep on the toe.  

"Birds shy off the jeeps, and this is no way to spot avian," I said. " I am ready for a long haul". The resort owner said nothing. He ordered his jeep to follow us at a distance.     

Pandav Caves

Pachmarhi First Sight & Food

The spirited terrain in the township is uniform, but the sudden eruption of cliffs after a short distance can be jarring at the first sight for the uninitiated, but nevertheless, the panoramic grandeur soothes the surprised nerves. Outside the town limits, the activities come to a stop (the visit was in the off-season) and the World comes to a standstill as if frozen back in time.  At that time, the noisy tea stalls were in slumber about to wake up for their lazy customers. Pachmarhi is not for people who need a bite at the first stroke of dawn. Luckily, I had a sumptuous breakfast at Golf View.

Near the township, visitors have varied options for meals mostly vegetarian but nevertheless delicious. The hill station incites deep hunger in the prevailing salubrious environment, and local street food is good enough. For upscale tourists, restaurants in luxury hotels are beckoning but few do venture out to try the local stuff.     

Pachmarhi Hills Big & Small  

Pachmarhi accords a feeling of an esoteric charm whence you are alone, and the geological formations mesmerize at one fleeting glance. Impressive by all means, the panoramic spread at steep heights cannot be encountered anywhere. You have to see to believe. The striking features of the larger hills are the dense green clothing of trees and bushes, the tapered pinnacles, and the sloping contours. In between, the steep bare cliffs stand out like silent sentinels warning intruders not to dare.    

The streams in the glens are most enchanting when they glisten as sunlight fall on them. The twinkling stars erupt in the daytime as the rivers silently snake through steep cliffs and dense canopies.  The natural formations are striking and pleasing and not only amazing. They accord a true holiday feel in the wilderness.   

Being a wildlife sanctuary and now part of Satpura Tiger Reserve, the holiday resort is a haven for wildlife enthusiasts as well as holidaymakers on sprees. The place is popular as a romantic getaway with cold winters and not-so-hot summers. Couples arrive here in large numbers to initiate and get familiar with conjugal life in the cool, salubrious confines of the resort with plenty of spots for complete isolation. 

You can see the newlyweds most often at the multichambered Pandav Caves situated within the township amidst a clutter of tea stalls, shops, and DIY car parking.  Yes, taxis and cars are parked just anywhere in this hill resort on a first come first stop basis. Holding hands, they are quite conspicuous but ignored by the crows busy with sightseeing and enjoying their brunch.  

Some of the old hotels and bungalows date back to the British Raj in India and stir reminiscence of the era of Raj a turbid rule nonetheless full of romantic grandeur created by the Sahibs.  The Sahibs loved this destination, the summer capital of Madhya Pradesh. The rest house at Dhoopgarh was to witness revelries unprecedented during the Raj powered by scotch, and the wood-fired Indian food that khansamahs created in the dingy set-aside kitchen. Standing in front of the vacant rest-house, I could realize how ordinary nonelites could be. Unlike in the case of Sahibs, a visit to this hill station is a privilege we can ill afford.   

Rest House

Off-Season Visit

Crowds wash off the fun of being in an enchanting place hence off-season visits are rewarding.  After a demanding and lackluster trip to Satpura Tiger Reserve, Pachmarhi was a whiff of fresh air. On the very first day, I heard Malabar Blue Whistling Thrush, the refreshing long-drawn sonorous song is unforgettable. Nothing beats it, even a robust breakfast with a delectable menu. 

This holiday destination is a paradise for the ornithologists who are constantly exploring the remote place for that one vagrant that could crown their checklist. 

A Predator So Close & Sloth Bears

We stopped for a while, the big cat paw prints were quite fresh but I believed it had gone past from the spot. A couple of days back it had been seen by many near the very spot. It was an aging cat pushed off by a rival perhaps. 

Golf View Hotel

Stunned by a predator so close, I hesitantly decided to continue the walk. But it was short-lived. The next warning was that of the sloth bear, which I was told can surprise you in the bush. They can deliver nasty scars when alarmed. On the walk, we encountered bushland with twisting walkways in between, and anywhere the slothy creature could be lurking. On full alert, I know how unpredictable the sloth bear could be. Unlike the tiger, they are known to attack without any reason or threat perception. They have mauled people to death in the past, and to get away with scars is worse for they disfigure and maim for life.  Thankfully, this was a rare occurrence and the calm on my face was an assurance for Puneet. We nevertheless were onboard whence we came to dense thickets that allowed no transparency.            

We continued on the jeep. Panoramic spread of hills enshrouded in green, and the jagged bare outcrops and precipices are everywhere but each with a differing countenance. You can never tire out believe me.  

Landscape STR

Dhoopgarh

Mesmerized to the hilt, we continued towards Dhoopgarh which literary means a fort draped in the sunshine. Yes, this is the highest spot in Central India. The drive goes through nerve-wracking steep and acutely twisting curves and you need to hold yourself calm. The deep ravines support tropical herbs and shrubs nourished by gentle sunlight that enters the inaccessible valleys, and minuscule crevices with flowing water, and are protected by the cool shady confines. Some of the exotic herbs found here have medicinal properties yet are undiscovered. Botanists revel in exploring these inaccessible dangerously steep places in the hill resort.

Pachmarhi Forests

Grandeur in Simplicity & The Bar 

At the top of the hill sits a rest house lost in the bygone era. This was the place for revelries during the Raj. Now visited mostly out of curiosity by love birds and the ubiquitous tourists, it is a pointer to British architecture in India. The structure that the British built exhibited grandeur in simplicity, they are enchanting without fail. and blessed with a quiet ambiance difficult to find in modern architecture. No esoteric carvings no domes. 

As we roll down the hill memories of past visits surface in the bewildering labyrinth of my mind. The town once a place steeped in serenity was busy catering to crowds of rancorous tourists, and the single roads were full of cars and smoke. Most old hotels face stiff competition from new arrivals but retain their esoteric charm.  I used to love visiting the bar at Old Block in the evenings. It is the solitude that appeals the most to town people. Conversation in hush-hush tones amid already prevailing silence, dark draped night impact the yellow lightning in upscale venues that soothe. I was very fond of this bar and spent a few moments in peace here during my past visits.    

Thanks to the notification, the town is unable to expand. Mercy! Out beyond the town limits, there are plenty of geological formations and wilderness full of birds and wild animals. The big mammals are elusive but the natural formations are not at all disappointing.  

We did not see the tiger but nevertheless, it was memories springing back of days whence I used to visit with my extended family members.  

Pachmarhi Hill Resort is a five hours drive from Jabalpur Airport, and a little less distant from Bhopal Airport the Capital City of Madhya Pradesh. Reserve your accommodation in advance and schedule the visit in summer with a bit less of a crowd. Do not worry summers are tolerable here. 

A number of MPTDC hotels with good enough locations and modern amenities are the best accommodations to seek. But book well in advance. 

Read Pristine Pachmarhi

================================================

Uday is a blogger and offers Seo + Content For Digital Marketing Services. 

He teaches digital marketing (SEO) in Jabalpur.

He freelances as a naturalist/birder at Kanha National Park. He loves to write on travel. 

He can be contacted at: 

pateluday90@hotmail.com

09755089323

Author

Tourism Development: Lesser Known Destinations in Madhya Pradesh

 Madhya Pradesh Profile

Being the second largest State of India, Madhya Pradesh or MP is covered to large extant by forests with good crown cover and destinations that are ideal for ecotourism. The state is culturally rich with iconic monuments created by erstwhile ruling dynasties. The indigenous tribal culture dominates the hinterlands and is equally robust and colorful with impactful cultural ethos and some spectacular architecture and artisanal industry.

Kundawara Forest

MP is well known as a tiger state thanks to a large number of protected areas notified as National Parks, Tiger Reserves and WLS. With scenic locales and impressive wildlife comprising of mega fauna and flora,  birds, reptiles and butterflies, the State promises tremendous ecotourism potential. It is not only the major tiger reserves that attract tourists but hill resorts and places with rich architecture and lifestyle do as well. The State is rich in geographical features with diverse terrain in which major rivers like Narmada, Son, Chambal as vital life support systems enriching societies and culture as they flow towards their final immersion.      

MP is diverse, politically stable, safe, and has sound infrastructure in terms of roads and highways. Tourism is being conducted since decades and has brought International fame with overseas tourists throbbing year on year in ever growing numbers. However the tourism potential is much more than is evident, with greater reach and development in lesser known destinations it will lead to an economic bounty in terms of revenue, increase in employment with emphasis on empowering local communities and thus culminating in better conservation and preservation of our heritage wealth.

Rani Durgavati Wildlife Sanctuary 

Lesser Known Destinations in Central India & Development

Just as the title portrays unknown, undiscovered destinations with tourism potential abound in the State. With focus on few major destinations the potential is not being properly utilized. In order to develop and attract tourism an innovative, broadminded and committed approach is a prerequisite.    

Developing tourism in lesser known destination calls for greater vision and effort aided by planning and strategic actions in a calibrated manner keeping potential, size and remote distances in mind. 

Some Points to be Noted Are:

       A) Study & Highlighting  

 

1)      Highlighting Potential Destinations

2)      Making A Feasibility Study

3)      Listing in Preferential Order

4)      Core Focusing of Key Features

5)      Initiating Development & Funding 

B) Preferred Destinations – Action

6)      Development of Road Infrastructure

7)      Re-engineering Assets Present For Utilization

8)      Enhancing Destination Potential

a)      Conservation Initiatives

b)      Institutional Empowerment

c)      Training of Local Work Force

 

9)      Bolstering Safety Measures

10)  Establishing Additional Recreation Venues

a)      Ecotourism/ Heritage Museums and Interpretation Centers

b)      Canteens

c)      Encouraging Heritage Shopping

d)     Encouraging Tribal/Local Performers

e)      Encouraging Local Artisans

f)       Inclusion of Nearby Interesting Spots   

11)  Establishing Hospitality Infrastructure     

a)      Encouraging Hotels & Resorts

b)      Encouraging Home Stays

c)      Facilitating Small Restaurants/Dhabas

d)     Encouraging Travel Service Providers

e)      Enhancing  Financial Facilities

f)       Creation of Viable Land Banks

g)      Single Window Clearance

h)      Adequate Security Measures

 

12)  Propaganda on Global/National Scale

 

Tourism Development A Holistic & Non Conventional Approach

Encouraging Private Participation

India as a country has instituted tighter administrative controls over all its heritage wealth and to some extent potential destinations. Though stringent rules and regulations are a must in case of sensitive places like the conservation units, the same approach is followed in case of imperishable heritage wealth and ecotourism centers sans indicator species.

The tighter institutional control has to be done away with in places with imperishable heritage wealth and ecotourism centers in non protected areas. And this calls for private participation in order to increase innovative approach, funding and supervision.

Cave Paintings 

 

Benefits of Participatory Enterprise Model

Inviting Private Enterprises & Business Houses

 

A participatory enterprise economic model (PEEM) will result in better infrastructure development, innovative/diverse tourism practices, investment in and development of public properties facing neglect for better utilization and preservation.

Initiation of private participation will lead to greater exploration and enhancement all venues of recreation and experiences for visitors leading a holistic approach to nature/cultural tourism.

PEEM will lead to availability of greater funds and managerial capabilities due to induction of experience and skills through diverse staffing.

Inherent Benefits 

In case of MP distant spread of niche tourism will lead to reduction in crowd pressure on popular tiger reserves and hill resorts. Greater exploration efforts will lead to discovery of unknown heritage wealth for better preservation and conservation initiatives.

The benefits will roll down to local communities as well which is essential for a poverty ridden country and states.  Revenue generation is vital for the State Economy. And a proactive broadminded approach towards tourism will lead to crucial revenue generation.    

Amarkantak

Some of the Potential Destinations Under Scope

 

1)      Amarkantak  Biosphere Reserve

 

Origin of Narmada & Son

Spiritual Importance

Includes Achankamar Tiger Reserve

Amarkantak Hill Resorts 

 

Potentia:l Wildlife Tourism & Walking Holidays

 

2) Nauradehi Wildlife Sanctuary 

   

Tiger Translocation

Slated for Cheetah Translocation

Easy Access From Jabalpur Airport/ Sagar Town

 

Potential: Wildlife Tourism

 

3) Rehta Pani Tiger Reserve

 

Bhimbetika Cave Paintings

Easy Access Bhopal (Capital)

Potential: Wildlife Tourism    

===========================================

Uday is a blogger and offers Seo + Content For Digital Marketing Services. 

He teaches digital marketing (SEO) in Jabalpur.

He freelances as a naturalist/birder at Kanha National Park

He can be contacted at: 

pateluday90@hotmail.com

09755089323

Author