Pachmarhi: In the shadow of the mountains

Long hidden in deep recess of Satpura Ranges, Pachmarhi hills were the fiefdom of the Thakur landlords during the Raj and before. Mostly inhabited by Korku Tribal communities since prehistoric times the hills remained in the deep labyrinth of obscurity till the 19th Century.

Captain James Forsyth discovered the hills and the communities during his exploration of the Central Indian Highlands. He has penned vivid account of the hill region in his book. He was instrumental in bringing forth the bounty of the majestic hill ranges and their natural wonders.

Even till today Pachmarhi is unspoiled, pristine and a panoramic grandeur that is breathtaking and stuns. It is home to wide variety of natural wonders like water falls, caves, deep glens, rising mountains and meandering rivulets. It is one of the finest region for trekking amidst forest clad mountain slopes and valleys.

Far away from the maddening crowd, the hill town is a cantonment, and from periphery onwards it is declared as a wildlife sanctuary. The township is a fulcrum of tourism on hill sides. Most of the accommodation is based here except that of MP Tourism Dept and some government rest houses and very old private lodges.

The place has much to offer in terms of natural spots and is an adventurous destination for trekkers. The deep valleys, steep precipices and dangerous footholds encountered while traversing mountainous treks are very risky. Untrained trekkers can lose their life or suffer heinous injuries.

The preserve is enveloped by dense forests of Sal and Mixed Type with diverse topography and degree of sunlight. The inner rocky confines support mind boggling variety of ferns, algae, fungi, herbs and shrubs. The degree of sunlight and wetness varies considerably in the unfathomable labyrinths of rocky core. This is the reason for survival and growth of amazing floral wealth in the hills here. The meandering rivers support a variety of mega flora as they cries cross the tortured terrain.

The ancient caves harbor Hindu deity (Lord Shiva) while many hold Paleolithic evidence in terms of prehistoric paintings or petroglyph. The oldest signs of human habitation dates back to 20000 years perhaps more. The numerous object of religious worship present in the hill station draws huge crowds of Hindu devotees.

Enchanting fresh water pools, sparkling waterfalls, deep glens, sun rise and sunset points; clean rivers attract holiday makers by thousands. The green cover is the towering grace of this heaven on Earth and the canopy are preserved in their natural state created by the evolutionary process.

Some of the popular spots visited by all tourists are listed below:

Chauragarh Mountain – Lord Shiva

Dhupgarh Mountain - Sunset & Sunrise

Jatashankar Caves – Lord Shiva

Irene Pool

Fairy Pool

Handi Khoh – Glen

Priyadarshini Point – Sunset & Sunrise

Pandav Caves – Religious

Reech Garh – Hill

Gupt Mahadeo – Cave – Lord Shiva

Bade Mahadeo – Cave – Lord Shiva

Denva Darshan – River

B Falls

Dutchess Falls

Those with an exploratory zeal are bound to discover myriads of wonders here. For this extensive trekking is required in company of a guide. The guide has to be experienced since loosing way may mean never to return. Camping is not allowed in the forests and may require special permission being a cantonment it is unlikely to be granted.

The place is ideal for botanists and researcher since the floral bounty offer unique opportunity to study. The medicinal plants, herbs, shrubs and microscopic flora are found in wild abundance. Not only the scientists but the locals are impressive by their knowledge of vegetation with immense medicinal value.

Pachmarhi excels as tourism destination in Madhya Pradesh. The professional tour operators in MP offer exclusive package for Pachmarhi. There are many hotels in the township while MPTDC resorts are situated in wilderness as well.  

The best way to explore this destination in by jeeps and there plenty available for hire. One needs to engage services of local guides for trekking on way to places of interests. Trekking in forests and campning is not allowed.

Sahydhari range in Maharastra

The herd of black bucks somewhere near Bhusaval on Jabalpur Pune rail track was an elating sight. The group of twenty or more was peacefully grazing on the scrub alongside the track. The scene is reminiscent of olden days whence larger tracts where occupied by these antelopes and other animals. But a crucial component of our ecosystem is now missing all over India and survives in small pockets totally at the mercy of humans. 

The range is impressive by all means but lack the verdant greenery of Satpura. It is difficult to make out if the bare mountains evolved as such or were deprived of the green cover. Sahyadhari Mountains exhibit stepped up elevation with plateau on the top of most. 

They are at their scenic most during the rains whence small trickling falls all over make the mountains enchanting. In the dry season the mountains appear as ghost of the dead with bare stony ridges and flats deprived of any short of cover. Sahydhari begin from Gujarat and traverse down to Southern India - the Western Ghats. The mountains block the narrow coastal strip from the Deccan Plateau and deprive the region of rain.    

Ironically the ranges which spread over one lakh sixty thousand sq km are labeled as biodiversity hot spot. They may still be at places but most of the hill ranges are bare bereft of any green cover.  The hills form the largest catchment area of complex network of rivers in India.

The formation started right from the beginning of tectonic plate movement from the major chunk the Gondwanaland. The ranges are called by various local names throughout their long stretch. In Northern Maharashtra they are known as Sahyadhari.   

All along the track the bare mountains offer shelter to large and small towns and number of rural settlements. Humanity resides here since ages and major towns like Pune have emerged. The destruction of natural belts is very much evident on this scape. Overstretching civilization, expanding agriculture and growing cities have become the hall mark of this journey. Expansion and rabid industrialization is evident and the large housing complex and colonies are nothing but modern ghettos. The nature has taken  back seat and the plunder and loot of natural resources goes on. And this is the story all over urban India.  

The journey to Pune was a sad reminder of destruction of natural lands taking place all over. The pretext is there - so many people to feed so many people to employ and what not. It is a losing battle for nature and for the poor population of this country who have little to gain from the influx of poison fuming industries. All the wealth is in hands of the industrialists, traders, land owners and the corrupt politicians.    

Shivpuri - Lesser Known Destination in MP

From the plains of Uttar Pradesh you drive on Jhansi Shivpuri  Highway  towards  the Summer Capital of rulers of Gwalior. The plains lead to a rugged countryside on which lies the Karera Bustard Sanctuary. The Great Indian Bustard is rarely seen in this dacoit infested area.       

You climb further uphill through Madhav National Park to reach  the township. The place is small but enchanting and unique mix of Rajasthani and MP culture. Shivpuri is named after Lord Shiva and important tourist centers are villages in vicinity that harbour anceint Hindu & Jain temples they are Terahi, Indari, Ranod, Sakarra and Mahua. Thes temples depict rock cut carvings on outer walls. Chamunda  Devi Temple is worth a visit. Some of the temples are over thousand years old and protected but many are in ruins beyond recognition. These places are not frequented by villagers and have overgrown vegetation encircling them. 

Madhav National Park is well known for its wildlife and once Mughals and Scindia's hunted in these pristine forest. The extant of the forest has decreased considerably and almost all remains in the protected area. The famous Chand Patha Lake harbors interesting migratory ducks and other bird species. George Castle stands erect amidst the forest, built for a king who never came. The palace has no historical significance. The elite past lives in numerous palaces and hunting lodges in the surroundings besides marble cenotaphs.       

Indian Summer Travel

India retains its charm through thick and thin. Be it chilly winter, burning hot summer, monsoon or spring come along and you will relish each and every flavor. The summers in India are definitely hot perhaps not so in the extreme Northern confines - Himalayan Region.

The heat churns on from Mid April by this time most of the deciduous trees, grasses, herbs and shrubs have shed their leaves.The landscape changes dramatically as summer advances and you can see through once impenetrable canopy easily. The Palas and Amaltas and many other flowering tree bloom to color the landscape. The scapes take on an enchanting ambiance of tree skeleton interspersed with evergreen shrubs and vast empty land with exposed top soil. It is all lifeless black and khaki, green, red and yellow.

The summers are usually dry and hence more tolerable than humidity. The sun is up strong by nine am and tortures you till about four pm. The heat then starts to reduce in preparation for the night. The scorching desert night are the coolest.  

It is best to avoid traveling in the afternoon when the heat peaks. Carry lot of water with you in order to avoid dehydration. Eat light, add local salads and pickles to your diet. These increase perspiration and offer valuable micro nutrients, the salts clear your systems of toxic substances. Drink a lot of fruit juice during travel and eat the fresh one's often. In summers avoid meat and food item hard to digest. Due to extreme heat digestive capacity decreases hence eating vegetables and fruits is wise. Eat lots of curd or its derivatives. Your immunity decrease in the heat hence avoid roadside food or water which may not be sterile. 

Plan out your travel schedule so that you reach there quickly and avoid unnecessary travel hassle.  Save yourself from dehydration hence drink lot of liquid. Keep medicine for loose motions and indigestion with you all the time. Eat light snacks sold in packets and consume mineral water from quality brands. Visit upscale restaurant which maintain a high degree of hygiene.

Where light clothes and sandals as shoes can be stuffy and uncomfortable in summers. Summer garments should be able to reflect light in order to stay cool. Wear sunglasses to avoid solar glare.

Book hotel rooms or lodges which have air coolers or air conditioning. Travel in air conditioned rail compartments and luxury A/C buses and taxi. 

Bandhavgarh Pristine Paradise and Amazing Fort

In remote district of Madhya Pradesh or Central India lie the amazing imprints of an ancient human civilization.  The Rewa forests were known more by Shikari’s and wood loggers than others. It was a chance discovery of white tiger that brought Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve to the World tourist map.   The white tiger was found near these forests by the erstwhile Maharajah if Rewa estate.

The tiger reserve is situated in Umaria District a forest belt with dense canopy and tribal hamlets.  Since more than two thousand years tigers and humans lived together in this wilderness. Unlike the modern times there was no conflict between the two then. But civilization came one after the other and vanished into antiquity. The tigers remained but badly decimated by shikaris and poachers, the forest where ravaged and their wealth plundered. Today forests survive as small pockets scattered here and there.

Though a small reserve, Bandhavgarh is an enchanting paradise on Earth. Amidst the dense Sal forests lie ruins of ancient kingdom.  Scattered around are man made caves, stables, temples in ruin and shelters carved out of igneous rocks. The climb to Shesh Shaiyya is steep and rugged but rewarding. This mesmerizing pool besides the reclining statue of Lord Vishnu enthralls one and all. The ferns, vines, shrubs adorn the whole scape on the slopes of Bandhavgarh Hill. The pool is fed by trickles of water and miniature falls from the vegetation on the slope. Tigers splash in the pool whence devoid of humans.

From Shesh Shaiyya it is a steep climb to the top of the hill where in lies the magnificent 2000 year fort in ruins.  The hillock is at height of 800 MSL and is part of the Vindhya Range. It towers over the conglomeration of marshy grasslands, deep valleys and dense forest belts, fed by snaking rivulets all around. The place offers a panoramic view of the reserve.  The first spectacle is the arch still preserved but tampered by later dynasties. The second good spectacle is of a tall statue of Lord Vishnu on the edge over looking the forests below.  Then between stretches of grasslands there lie scattered large reservoirs all man made.  The statues of Lord in fish and turtle forms intrigue as do all zoomorphic depictions in this reserve.  The Laxman Temple stands near the rampart and is regularly visited by the worshipers.     

The ruins are scattered all over, the fort was not plundered or destroyed but disentangled with passage of times. But the process could not envelope the stone and masonry work which still remain.  Some structures still remain. The site is a virtual museum of ancient architecture and delightful carvings of Gods and Goddesses. There are many small temples within the fortification and more structures that are little away from the main complex. There are historical reference to it in ancient Hindu scriptures.

The plateau now back to wilderness supports lot of life forms including tigers and leopards. It is eerie and scary to be up there alone in the lost kingdom. The Fort is enchanting and esoteric - worth a visit if you wish to experience ancient India.

There are many places of interest near the park. Most of the accommodation in Bandhavgarh is offered by jungle resorts both luxurious and budget. Book hotels in advance to  avoid heavy seasonal rush. You can book Indian tiger tour as well at MP online kiosks. There are many affordable tour operator packages In MP that conduct wildlife safaris in the tiger reserve. the best season is winters but hot summer offers a unique ambiance to the visitors. 

The National Park is approachable from Jabalpur and directly from New Delhi up to Umaria by Rail. It is at a distance of 170 plus km from Jbp which is connected by Air with New Delhi. All tiger reserves, Khajuraho and Pachmarhi can be reached from Jabalpur in Madhya Pradesh. 

Making a hotel booking in India

India is a marvelous and colorful destination with lot of freedom and diversity. It is fun to travel from one part of the country to another and experience the cross cultural diversity and varied ethnic profiles. The people are very hospitable and warm, it is good to mix with local families and communities.

There are hardly any orthodox communities, hence it is easy and fun to mingle with them men women children all. Some people are sensitive about food as they are vegetarians but not anything else....may be places of worship..you should enter bare feet. And yes try to war local garb or Indian dress you will really be accepted fast. Do not trust single men for they may be trouble makers. Some people on roadside or destinations are very curious about foreign visitors, politely brush them aside. 

Safe Travel 

Anyway traveling in the country is safe provided you take basic precautions that you would take in any other country. The more planned your itinerary is the better it is. Your holiday can get mired in bewildering confusing in this large country without preplanned efforts. In deep recess you may not find modern amenities and facilities so purchase all your stuff and carry along. Find before hand what is available and what is not? 

Hotel Reservation

Many Indian hotels have not yet gone online in a proper way.  Making a hotel search and having an online tour of the accommodation is not that easy. The website are built haphazardly hence you do not get a good impression of the property. 

The hotel owners are not aware of online marketing or have little faith in it. Since online search is limited in India but booking does come from a properly placed site on SERPs. If you have no contact in the destination you are visiting than the travel agent, review sites and word of mouth is your only information source. These are unreliable at times so you may not find things as had been told to you.

Take a destination guide that would be a great help. Some guides like Lonely Planet are very reliable. These are one stop shop for travel and related information. Carry one with you always. Read as much about India as you can with focus on the route you are taking and the destinations to be visited.  

The lanes and by lanes where the hotel is situated may be confusing. In the maze of Indian mega city it is easy to get lost and loose your stay. Best is to take a card and phone number before you step out. Even if you need a local guide ask your hotelwalla. He is gaining from you so will he hesitate to help you. 

In this country all properties in cities and tourism destinations have touts or roadside booking agents. Your rickshaw wallah, auto driver, taxi driver will help you in booking but then they have their own loyalties. You would be lucky if you get to the right place for a stay.  But this also time wasting since you may have to rush immediately for a meeting.

Online Bookings

So the only recourse are websites online with proper information some review sites like trip adviser, fodors, frommers, travel post and the about.com are reliable source. There are many blogs and websites like brand hotels Worldwide that offer reliable information since they have no loyalties with any one.  But at the most this contains little information.

When making reservations online do not just send your stay information and send money. It is better to get full information  using the online form. After few conversations you can take the plunge.

Tour Formalities

So it remains difficult for a visitor from foreign country to choose an accommodation online. Any once you have landed at your destination hotel resort than what. Well first you need an identity card like your passport. For Indians driving license, Income tax pan card will do for identity. An ATM card does not work please remember. 

For inbound visitors it is important that their arrival and departure information is passed to the nearest police station. You have to fill forms in which passport information is submitted. It is the resort owners responsibility to see that the information is submitted to the police. Fill in the booking information for sure. The hotels have a common register for noting down the bookings this is compulsory and you are secure once your details are noted down. Do keep friends and relatives informed as to where you have stepped in.  The precautions are necessary if your are putting up at a budget lodge or a cheap city inn. Some areas may be unsafe in a destination so try to find out the locality and do not stay there. And yes do not move around late or avoid travel at night.  

Before checking in you must have visited the room and made sure of you comforts. In the room keep all your valuable locked or deposit them in a hotel locker. Take special care of your passport and money loosing either of them will be terribly. As and when you move out make sure that you hire a taxi or auto that the accommodation provides. Hence you will be traveling locally with somebody known. Most of the hotels and resorts are in touch with travel services hence it is safer to hire through them.   

On the first day of the stay make sure of the food. Indian cuisine is marvelous but you can make request to lower down a thing or two specially chillies. Never at at roadside joints in case of emergency pick up a plain vegetable, roti or naan all hot right out of the pan. Carry branded mineral water all along.

Ignore the consternation and uncertainty. India is a wonderful country with lots to offer in varied niche sectors in tourism. Read a lot on travel basics and the come home for many a magical journeys.   

How India Travels!

People in India travel a lot especially during festivals, in weddings, on holy occasions and in holidays. The most eager traveler is the rural folks who are not privileged enough to go on holidays.  The people of the country are tradition keepers hence change does not come fast. 

India still travels in rail. The Indian Railway provides the most popular mode of transport to the people. Incidentally it is the cheapest as well as most networked system. No wonder Indian rail journeys are most written about. The journey can be very comfortable if you are traveling in air conditioned class with a reserved berth. But not many can afford it.  

The largest number of travelers crowd the trains and buses during holy occasions like the Kumbh Mela.  This is followed by those going in to attend a political rally. Seasonal travel during holidays - Diwali, Post Exam (summer), Holi, Marriages, create the worst kind of rush in the trains. The tickets are booked in advance and it is very difficult to step in the sleeper class.  

Bus is another mode of cheap transport in the land - and worst. Most of the state run buses are ill equipped for luxury and comfort but then they are the cheapest. For luxury and comfort the answer is luxury bus services. They are costly but nevertheless preferred by upper class since travel by personal car is costlier. 

Air Travel is unthinkable if you have less money or your company does not sanction. Most of the air travelers are Government employees, Employees of big companies and the jet set who have fat load of money. The middle class flies only in emergency or during pressing need for quick travel.     

It is the only way. If you wish to experience the land from close train travel is the best followed by a bus or  taxi. Taxi is very costly used only by corporate big wigs and tourists on holiday. For holiday makers from foreign countries taxi is most recommended. It is most comfortable to travel for short distances from one destination to another. Car Rentals and Motor Home rentals are available as well but it is not yet very popular in India.    

Traveling Attire in India

India is a diverse country with varied climate and weather conditions. It is a country where lifestyle changes from one place to other. This is the impact of diverse culture which is ever evolving. The major difference can be noted in culture are in spoken language or dialect, food preferences and attire. 

Physical features are common though ethnic differences can be noted. Tribal and other ethic communities are more varied and distinct. People in Central plains and Deccan are look alike with minor differences.  Due to the size of the country an amazing diversity is prevalent. This is what is appealing about this land where landscape, people and weather changes by the distance.

Visitors from foreign countries as well as many locals are stunned by ever changing India. But in spite of differences people exhibit some common characteristic. The people of this country love age old tradition which they do not distance from even under the garb of modernity.

Hence tourist interested in assimilating with the people while on visit should first realize the local traditions. Wearing local dress is found to be more acceptable by Indians. Another benefit is revealing dress is avoided since some people are not used to it. Revealing outfit may invite a bunch of eve teasers which can be trouble some. 

There are dresses in local communities which are typically for men and women. While women have more covered up garb, men can wear scanty clothing in case of heat and humidity. The urban class in this land  has a common dress code i.e pant and shirt for men and sari or salwar kameez for women. Some women  and all young girls in cities wear jeans, t shirts and frocks. But older women prefer traditional garments especially if they are divorced of widowed. The wedding dress is rich embroidered or embellished with colorful motifs made of gold silver threads called Zari.        

In rural areas customary dress is very common and typical to the region. Hence every region or state in the country has its own traditional garb.  This applies to the whole sub continent - Pakistan, Nepal, Bangla Desh and neighboring island Sri Lanka.  People in states have distinct clothing choice especially in rural areas. 

The Indian clothing is highly colorful and embellished at times though instances of plain garb can be encountered especially among the poor or very conservative lot.  During festivals lot of dress styles emerge colorful, sparkling  bright and as vivacious as the occasion. Similarly in marriages gaiety of the event is best expressed by traditional  garbs - kurta pajama, sherwani, salwar kameez, colorful embroidered saree, lehanga choli and lungi. The latter is more popular in Southern India.  

In Northern India and Pakistan Shalwar Kameez is more popular. It is Like the sari this dress has crossed International boundaries and hence is available in stores in Dubai, UK, USA and other parts of Europe. The top rated fashion designers in Pakistan have glamorized this dress. 

The saree is popular all over India and appears in mind boggling  patterns, colors and designs. The fashion industry is burgeoning in the country. Hence traditions Indian Sari  & Suits are popular in many countries. There are many stores which sell these online. In many foreign countries shops keep fashion and traditional clothing from India. The traditional clothing with regional flavors are not available anywhere else. One can buy such garbs while on tour to that destination.   

Traditional garments in the sub continent compliment the society and are user friendly. They are weather compliant and soothing to the eyes of the locals. Hence you as foreign tourist will feel at home among the ethnic lots.   

Mahakaleshwar - Abode of Lord Shiva

This is where one of the 12 Jyotirlinga (Shiva Lingam) resides, besides the Rudra Sagar Lake. It is one of the holiest destination of the Hindus on pilgrimage. This is the only South facing or dakshin muki temple among the twelve Jyotirlinga. The temple lies within the center of Ujjain city on Kshipra River in Malwa in MP.   

Besides the lingam there reside idols of many Hindu Gods including Nandi in the premises. Nandi Bull is the vehicle of Shiva as always portrayed alongside the Lord.  The temple overpowers the holy city of Ujjain and is an an architectural marvel. The fine carvings and sculptural finesse creates and aura of awe and majestic splendor.  

During ancient times the city was called Avantika and once ruled by Chandrasen an ardent devotee of Shiva. The city was protected by the Lord against warring neighbors who had an evil eyes on its treasures. There are numerous temples within and outside the confines of the Holy City. Those on long stay can visit the temples in order to explore the religious places of importance.

Madhya Pradesh destinations

The major tourism destinations in Madhya Pradesh are of course the tiger reserves Khajuraho Temples  and Pachmarhi Hill Resort. But then one cannot forget Amarkantak, Orchha and Mandu. For the religious kind Amarkantak, Sanchi, Omkareshwar, Chitrakoot, Maheshwar (Maheshwari Sarees), Bhojpur and Ujjain are a must visit.  

Major towns must visit are Jabalpur, Indore, Gwalior and Bhopal for food, commerce and sightseeing historical monuments. Jabalpur is the best conduit for the tiger reserves - Kanha, Bandhavgarh, Pench and Satpura National Park. One can also reach Khajuraho & Panna tiger reserve via Bandhavgarh or from Satna/Katni. For sightseeing Jabalpur has the famous Mable Rocks, Dhuandhar Falls, Chausathjogini and the Madan Mahal Fort. 

There are many lesser known destination worth visiting in Madhya Pradesh but proper research should be done before moving in. Among Hill Resorts Pachmarhi takes the cake. It is a pristine forest with magical landscape - Valleys, forest clad mountains, ancient temples and numerous waterfalls.   

For those averse to making rigorous travel arrangement package tours to MP are best. The tour companies do all the work for for a hassle free holiday in Central India. Though English is in use everywhere a touch of Hindi Dialect would make things easier. In rural and distant areas banking and shopping would be limited. Hence it is better to pack oneself with the prerequisite before leaving.

Traveling in the state is safe but still it is better not to be on road during the night time. One should keep one's valuable in sight since minor theft can take place.