Traveling to Kanha National Park

Kanha National Park, Madhya Pradesh (MP) in India 

Invariably the discussion points to the road and the roads in general. "Corruption," my friend says. "Yeah, nothing new about it. He continues. "The khuds (ditches) jerk our innards as we proceed at turtle's pace. My friend who owns a resort at Kanha turns and twists the beleaguered steering of his expensive car.  I can see the grimace on his countenance as he desperately avoids injury to his precious vehicle. His face and belly muscles twitch and twist around vigorously. 

"You are lucky that there is no swelling or cramping of your muscles" I speak pathetically. "I have been driving on these roads for ages," he says and does not bother to offer further explanation.    

The road from Jabalpur to Kanha goes through one of the most scenic highways. The teak forests beside the road loom large and create a picturesque landscape. Once home to tigers and leopards, they are devoid of life now.  With few good patches, the ride continues to be bumpy and at times becomes dangerous on steep climbs.

After a drive of more than two hours, we reach Mandla Town which is about 96 km from Jabalpur. Like a majority of townships in India, this one too is populated with a maddening crowd and embedded in chaos and confusion. The sounds and smells are the same as that of any other sleepy habitation. This town is the HQ of Kanha National Park and houses the Chief Conservator or Field Director of the park. Mandla is a district of MP, and the township has many Government administrative offices.   

We do not stop here, rather we cross over the bridge over the Narmada River and halt for a cup of tea. This part of the river yields the finest freshwater fish not available anywhere near Jabalpur. A short drive from Maharajpur the road bifurcates. On the right, it is the Raipur Highway and on the left, it is the way to Nainpur. We turn left and negotiate the narrow gauge railway crossing. This one is unmanned and dangerous.

As we proceed towards Bahmni Banjar, a small township, the greenery gives way to human habitations, small hamlets, green fields, ubiquitous petrol pumps, tire wallahs, small retail shops, and dhabas (roadside eateries). Chai wallahs and Paan Shop abound.  For the resorts in Kanha, this is the supply point for groceries, sweets, and eatables. From here onwards, for a considerable distance, there is no township with modern facilities. I buy some medicines here and we proceed.

Large stretches of empty land greet us as we turn further left toward the Indri Village. After Indri, we cross over many fields and overgrown villages but what we like best to see are the quaint little hamlets of the tribal. Cows cross over the road at will making it difficult to maneuver the ditches. Soon human habitations give way to small patches of forest, the remainder of the extensive ecosystem this tiger reserve was in the earlier times. The forests classified as Kanha buffer are dotted with small tribal hamlets and some larger places which are markets for the remote populations. The landscape once again becomes picturesque but the road remains dotted with potholes.       

In the seventies, this road was almost deserted and we could start looking for wild animals. But this is no more, we hardly see any life in the forests. Anyway, it feels good to drive through the verdant greenery. We cross two river systems before we reach Mocha. These are the Ghanghar Nalla and the Banjar River. The Banjar Valley along with the Halon valley received early protection during British Rule in India. 

Mocha Village is the epicenter of resorts in this National Park. A large number of luxury hotel accommodation in Kanha are established here. The accommodations here are big with as many as twenty-five rooms. Mocha has a bustling market with the availability of daily needs, grocery, and consumer durables. 

We turn left some distance before Mocha and proceed towards the Patpara Village. This is the road to Baihar Township, and from here on one can proceed to Raipur Capital of the State of Chhattisgarh.  After crossing over the tortured inundated patch of Banjar River once again we reach the Patpara Village where my friend's boutique resort is situated.               

The three hours drive on a good road takes more than four and a half hours and a lot of torture. Thanks to "Corruption!"   

For us, this has become a  routine. For reaching the magical wilderness and tiger heaven we will bear all.

Kanha Fact File

Kanha is about 165 km from Jabalpur. Jabalpur Airport is connected with New Delhi & Mumbai. Jabalpur is well connected with major towns by rail. 

Wildlife: Tiger, Leopard, Wild Dog, Bison, Sloth Bear, Sambar Deer, Swamp Deer, Spotted Deer, Barking Deer, Wild Boar, Sloth Bear, Four Horned Deer, Mouse Deer,  Wolf, Jackal, Fox, Hare, Civet, Jungle Cat and more. The Tiger Reserve has more than two hundred and fifty bird species.    

         

Images by Sweety Sharma

These are some of the spectacular images of Jabalpur by Sweety Lucky Sharma.

Dhuandhar Falls

DhuandharFallsJabalpur

GorgeatRiverNarmada

Narmada River

Sunset at Narmada

SweetyLuckySharma

Sweety Lucky Sharma is a budding photographer based in Jabalpur. This young lass has come out with some spectacular images of Beraghat. With time to come more work is going from her dedication and love for her work. 

Rail to Apdu Ahmedabad

I wheel my bag into the 3 AC Coach of Somnath Express that plies between Jabalpur to Somnath via Ahmadabad. My PNR status is waiting list number one. This makes me very optimistic about getting a berth. I ask the TC about the possibility.

"Full hai Saheb! Bhool Jao berth" he says nonchalantly. "I will be a stowaway," I inform the TC rather apprehensively. You are not allowed to board the Indian trains if your status is on a waitlist. You have to get on the general coach which is nothing less than corporal punishment and if there is a riot you are possibly dead.

I enter the coach and find myself lucky to get a seat in the first compartment. The couple looks at me hesitantly but tends to ignore me since it is daytime. " I do not have a confirmed status but will vacate your berth when you wish to sleep," I say apologetically. They do not reply but just shake their head to express some discomfort. I feel like a pariah. This makes me realize how much difference a placement on a piece of paper can make. One step down and you are unsecured - this applies to life in real as well.          

I sit with a book in my hand, my legs stretched wide, oblivious of the surroundings. A traveler with a confirmed status to be. He! He!

Be it AC Coach or Sleeper Coach the chaos continues throughout the journey - day or overnight. Indians are restless travelers and utmost loud. From one compartment to another; to the toilet - to and fro - the settlement is never there, it is either relative adjusting the seats or friends trying to group together.  More time is spent on the passage than on the berth. For those who are taking me as chauvinistic better experience firsthand.     

The train has a large number of Gujarati travelers mostly holidaymakers who have visited Pachmarhi, Kanha, and Bandhavgarh in MP. Like loads of baggage, one another aspect is common among the Gujjus - it spells "Chavana". Chevada as it is called in Hindi is an assortment of many mouthwatering fried snacks. Gathia, Fafda, Sev, Puri, Sing Dana (Roasted Peanuts), etc. These are accompanied by Dhebra a super duper delicious Gujerati spiced bread. Whether upscale, midscale, or a bit lower this accompaniment is ubiquitous. These are one of the tastiest regional titbits and those with screwed noses will never ever experience these desi delicacies. The nutritive value is zero but that is compensated by fantastic taste. The sight and savor is an excellent cure for those suffering from dehydrated oral cavities, larynx, pharynx, and loss of appetite.       

Food among all train travelers in India is a typical extension of the journey. The gastronomic apparatus is always at work, be it chavana, peanuts, chips, aloo bondas; masala chanas, samosas, idlis, dosas, or bhel sold at the stations big and small. Lunch and Dinner are a big affair with all possible servings packed meticulously and served with gusto on paper plates. This is followed by more snacks, sweets, curd, and lassi (sweetened curd thoroughly whisked) on the stations that the train halts next and after. The mouth keeps churning throughout Chomp! Chomp! & Chomp! The coach smells of nothing but an admixture of various spices and so does the toilets - perhaps the messiest and the smelliest in the World. Well so to speak. 

"Do not even bother to show your ticket, the RAC is yet to be cleared," the TC informs me with regret. I look at the corner near the smelly toilet my recourse to be and curse my Karmas. In India, you survive if you can extract things with a bent finger and that is what I did. I ignored the TC and paid the attendant for sleep on his berth. (This is a regular affair so please do not raise eyebrows.) 

Ahmadabad Railway Station is one of the most chaotic, both inside and outside. I board an auto rickshaw and head for my nephew's flat. The old Ahmadabad appears to be depressing, messy, conservative, and scary -  like any other city in India. The auto struggles forward through the traffic with acrobatic grace executed by the experienced driver. And yes the traffic too can be described as chaotic.

The New Ahmadabad is more organized and gives a refreshing feel before the morning rush. It is one of the finest changing urban landscapes in India. As the auto surges ahead I try to figure out the way by seeking landmarks that made me reach from one place to another on my earlier visit. I give up.    

The community is tightly knit in this mega agglomeration of Gujarat. In this state, day means money, and evening means snacking or light dinner. For many, a late night is for heavy dining or consuming the preferred snacks. Contrary to popular belief, Ahmadabad is a gastronomic paradise almost on par with other metros of India. 

Though primarily vegetarian Gujarati food is the most varied and the tastiest in the World. Paradoxically average diet of many families at best can be described as light. Khichdi is the most common element of dinner at home. It is easily digestible and highly nutritious. But the Punjabi food joints rule the roost in Ahmadabad. Most of the Punjabi restaurant owners are long-back migrants and speak chaste Gujarati.                        

Two aspects that dominate culture in Ahmadabad are the Garba Dance and Marriages. The latter is one of the most important happenings...and swanky marriages invite gatecrashes. This is due to the amazing servings of ethnic and exotic foods. The classic ethnic decor and dazzling Gujerati garbs are a sheer delight to watch.

In gatherings, you will realize most of the old-generation Gujerati men lack attractive physical attributes. But the kids are getting smarter and smarter. The women are most gracefully endowed with a dazzling countenance, lightly sculptured bodies, and a demeanor that spells class. Many chics are ultra-modern hence do not fail to try your luck!       

My roots lie in Gujerat in Ahmadabad and date back perhaps a hundred years. I am not conversant with fluent Gujarati nor aligned with the fragile social fabric that is typical to this town. Coming from a cosmopolitan agglomeration I feel a bit ill at ease. I make myself comfortable in a corner with a plastic bottle filled with uh! Uh!. It is ironic that in a state that follows the principle of the Mahatma so zealously, liquor is available for asking. Concerning this very aspect in mind, I had an argument with some intellectuals as to why Gujarat is a dry state? "Liquor flows in every corner with liquified easy, all you need is a mobile number," I said. 

"It is because of prohibition that the state is so peaceful," they remarked. Well, this argument is hard to digest since I have met many people in restaurants and pan shops in a state of inebriation. The labor class consumes local brew almost every day and moves around freely.  

Personally, I believe the people of Gujarat are less prone to violence and crime. The Mahatma effect I am sure and economic stability. But unfortunately because of prohibition alcohol consumption has become a fashion as well a craze among the youth. A phenomenal amount of money must be paid by the liquor mafia to those concerned with prevention.   

Well, the marriage is well organized and I meet many of my family members and relatives. It is a terse "khemcho" most of the time and a wee bit of conversation with some.

The Gujaratis are talkative lot, polite and friendly. Full of enthusiasm when it comes to making money, eating, and traveling. The civic sense is worth emulating except the traffic sense which paradoxically the less talked about the better. If you are seeking a safe place for your daughter's education do not hesitate.  The metro has some of the finest education institutes in India.  

The characteristic Ahmadabad landscape is a mix of skyscrapers, small houses, restaurants, boutiques, colonies, shopping arcades, malls, parking, and swanky roads. The lower story contains pan shops, tea stalls, and handcarts selling a plethora of goods. The handcarts and small shops sell pakoras, bhajiyas, bhel, sandwich, dabeli, Chinese, and whatnot. Without these the landscape would be incomplete, these elements are quintessential Ahmadabadi. I never forget to savor these magical morsels besides Waghbakri Tea which is the hallmark of the city brand now going International.       

Leaving some premium markets most of the roads are littered with an amazing plethora of junk, garbage, holy cows, and stray dogs foraging between dog shit and cow dung.      

Nevertheless, there are beautiful green residential areas that exhibit architectural marvels. One great characteristic hallmark of the citizens is less snobbery. You will find a millionaire sitting with a middle-class friend sipping tea at a roadside joint. The rich will not hesitate to savor delicacies in small roadside joints. Though the finest cafes and upscale eateries abound here.  The new government is doing a marvelous job and things are changing for the better.

Those expecting sightseeing in this metro city will be disappointed for it is very little on the anvil. The walled city is a unique feature of this town which I do not really find interesting. There are a number of them and are called poles. The poles contain a series of houses enclosed by a large wall and a gate which sort of acted as fortifications during invasions by Moghuls.   

Ahmedabad is a great place if you like urban entertainment, and seek business prospects and all things related to urbanity. 

It is time to leave after an enjoyable trip. I check my Railway Pnr Status it shows a wait list as usual. Well, better luck this time perhaps. By the time I reach the railway station my nephew informs me of the berth number and coach. Bingo! The happy journey ahead.      

       

Time to Celebrate

Come October Festivities begin in India. This is when the torrid monsoon ends and fair, sunny weather is in plenty full. The series of Hindu festivals fetch a lot of joy and inundate the ambiance with myriads of mind-boggling colors. Ganesh Chaturthi in praise of Lord Ganesha lasts for 9 days, after some days it is followed by nine days of Navratri in praise of Maa Durga at times in personification as Goddess Kali. Ganesh Chathurthi is celebrated with greater pomp and gaiety in the Maharashtra State of India.  

Nothing expresses better than the empowerment of women except the Hindu Scriptures and Epics. In places, women in India are exploited which is a different matter - a simple lack of understanding and archaic beliefs.          

Navratri is immediately followed by Dusherra or VijiyaDashmi on the tenth day when idols of Durga are immersed in sacred waters. Dusherra marks the victory of good over evil. Large Idols of Ravana, the tyrant ruler of Lanka, and his associates are burnt using crackers all over India.  This festival is celebrated with greater fervor in Bengal the State of India. 

This is then followed by the 4/5 Day Diwali Festival of Lights. The lights dazzle throughout the night and crackers are aflame. The subtle clay lamps accord grace and serenity to the explosive atmosphere.  Diyas, as they are called in Hindi, are the epitome of the divine light of the overpowering darkness. The main festival Badi Diwali marks the return of Lord Rama, Sita & brother Laxman from 14 years of exile back to his Kingdom Ayodhya. This is after a thundering victory of evil Ravana who kidnapped Sita wife of Ram.

Food and sweets galore, the gratification of hunger is essential to all religious festivals the sweeter the better.        

Indian Railway - Garib Rath Express

The cool confines of the vestibule look inviting as I climb onto the rail with reservation status in RAC. Garib Rath which means Chariot of the poor is a long-distance rail that begins from Jabalpur City Station in Madhya Pradesh. The destination station is Mumbai, the commercial capital of India. The train stops at many stations on its journey towards Mumbai at the Arabian Sea. 

Garib Rath belongs to the express category which means fewer stoppages or is it? At the station, there is as much chaos as it is inside. Passengers are in a Hurry as always..there is much time, so I struggle to reach my seat, put my bag under it - in a constricted space and relax. The commotion continues, a journey that only offers the comfort of temperature control and nothing else. Five people to leave one passenger.   

The coaches are nice and clean and the toilets are hygienic. This by all means is a bounty. Indian rails contain the dirtiest toilets as at other public places. But there is a continuous effort from the department to maintain all things well. The problem lies in the sheer number of travelers.  

The windows are large enough and I love to watch my India. Beautiful India! The familiar landscape passes by, and I travel often on this route. But soon darkness takes over and I am confined to the inner reality of the coach. The stark reality of inner chaos is far apart from the magical scape outside. 

The rail offers cheaper fares than most temperature-controlled accommodations. It offers a chance to those not lucky enough to travel in AC. The cool comfort makes them extra chirpy and restless the commotion goes on well past sleeping hours. This is a characteristic of many travelers in India minus the upper class. Noise, spicy food, a large number of baggage, slippers, rugs, plastic bags, and mineral water all get cramped in a minimalist compartment. The situation is worsened by continuous to and fro of vendors selling tea, snacks, and, "Very Tasty Quality Food Sir! Garama Garm". The food, if you have no other source is all but palatable.         

In the cramped confinement, the World becomes oblivious and you feel like traveling in a spacecraft through the mysterious celestial space. But there is no vacuum here, it is literally a bazaar on the move. Perhaps we Indians are the most carefree travelers. In this confinement, I experience India from close. The emergence of clutter and chaos. Simply too many people! But within this extreme lies an amazing colorful tapestry, an admixture of diverse profiles that never cease to surprise me.

Travelers chomp all around..bananas, bhajiyas, samosa, chips Haldiram, the kids are very noisy and restless. As dinner time arrives people settle down for the big chomp. Family and friends gather around oblivious to the terribly constricted space. The passage is completely blocked by the time boxes open and the pungent aroma of spices fills the whole vestibule. The aroma lingers for hours in the AC compartment. The chomp is noisy and a fine example of gluttony...a train ride creates insatiable hunger, discomfort or not. By the time the chomp is over it is time to sleep or is it? The kids continue with their antics energized by loads of food...they become more troublesome. The women have a truckload of chatting to do. They are apologetic, this is a precious instance of complete freedom for them. I smile and mean to say carry on. The bed rolls begin to roll out as time proceeds, the event is as noisy as a frantic discussion of who will sleep where?

The Ticket Checker has not yet arrived, sitting with my laptop I try to ignore the milieu. I frequently check my Current Pnr status in hope of getting a birth to sleep. I am lucky now, and I have a confirmed birth in the next coach. My neighbors are upper-class English-speaking Indians. Tight-lipped, high society snobs by fate dipped into Garib Rath. The ambiance is dull, silent, and devoid of life...the silence is the only welcoming note.   

I take out my dinner, carefully wrapped in a foil, it is...spicy...pungent...aromatic..Blah! blah!. It is mind-bogglingly tasty, I have made it myself. The heavy aroma lingers in the air as I sit crossed legged chomping freshly made aloo ke sabji, oily Paratha, achar, and papad. Lots of nasty eyebrows are raised but I am at work, who cares. Aren't we all Indians? Live Life King Size!                                 

Himalayas: A journey through the land of abyss

Road to Manasarovar

Himalayan Spring

 Photographic odyssey by Neeraj Vegad photographer based in Jabalpur. His work here reflects his thoughts and deep understanding of the amazing topography of the Himalayas in India. Through his work and brief account, we travel to the wide expanse of the mountain ranges at Mount Kailash and Manasarovar Lake.     

The roads were excellent throughout the journey the author remarks and the drive was enjoyable. 

Tibetan Plateau

Tibetan Prayer Flags

(Above) The barren cold desert on the way was a unique experience. The Tibetan Plateaus arrived all over the on the way to Manasarovar surprising us with their nakedness and wide expanse.

A unique way of worship the Tibetan Prayer Flags are small rectangular pieces of colored cloth. These are found strung all over the region strung on Himalayan Ridges

Kedarnath

.     
The terrace was sculpted out of Mountains in Uttrakhand by step farming. The ledges, forests, rivers, and roads form a magnificent panoramic grandeur all over the lower reaches of the Himalayas.










The Himalayan Range contains some of the highest mountains in the World. The snow-capped peaks and the deep ridges form a breathtaking panorama in a rarefied atmosphere.    

Mount Kailash

Mount Kailash: The abode of Lord Shiva lies in Trans Himalayas in Tibetan Region. Most sacred to the Hindus it is embedded deep in the intrigue. The mystic mountain is considered a place of eternal bliss.       

Manasarovar Lake

Mansarovar Lake: The backdrop is created by Mount Kailash in the North. This personification of beauty is also considered as the purest and a sip will land oneself in the Abode of Shiva.  

Man Sarovar is one of the highest freshwater lakes at a height of 4590 meters. For Hindus, this is the most cherished pilgrimage destination. Many devotees arrive here from India on an organized package tour or Yatra. 

Pilgrims bathing

The religious fervor and a deep-seated belief make the pilgrims take a holy dip in the icy cold waters of Man Sarovar in the Tibetan Autonomous Region. 

Wildlife Tourism in India

India is a vast country with interesting zoo geography. This has resulted from diverse climatic conditions, varying altitudes, and local situations. Diverse life forms exist in the country. The wildlife of India is unique, interesting, and worth experiencing. 

There are more than 300 species of mammals among which the tiger and lion are tertiary carnivores and prime predators. The lion is restricted to Gir National Park in the state of Gujarat, but the tiger inhabits many regions.    

Tiger is the main interest of tourists in India and Internationally. In recent times interest in Lion safari has become popular. The Asiatic lion is the sole representative of its race in the World. The Asiatic lion survives only at Gir National Park in India. In Gujarat Asiatic Wild Ass in Little Rann of Kutch and Black Buck at Velavadar are also of tourist interest.

In Eastern India in Assam, the Indian Rhino safari attracts thousands of tourists to Kaziranga National Park. The one-horned rhino is now found only in Assam, Uttar Pradesh, and some regions of Nepal. The Indian wild elephant and Asiatic wild buffalo also make Kaziranga their home. Manas tiger reserve is also a habitat for tigers and rhinos in Assam besides the Golden Langur. Namdapha in Arunachal Pradesh is home to the red panda, hoolock gibbon, and clouded leopards besides many endemic species.   

The best place to see the tiger are Kanha, Pench & Bandhavgarh National Park in Central India. They are the finest habitat of the Bengal tigers in the country.  A large number of tourists come here for tiger safaris, birding, and wildlife watching. Other places to see tigers in India are Corbett Tiger Reserve in Uttranchal and Ranthambhore National Park in Rajasthan. The tigers inhabit many reserves in India but are not easily sighted.     

Many tiger reserves in the South are also popular tourist destinations because of the diversity in flora and fauna they harbor. There live many endemic mammals and birds in Southern India which are found nowhere else.

The best mode of travel to India is on package tours. The top-rated Indian wildlife tour operators offer packages for wildlife safaris in India. These are professional companies and make your safaris very successful. Organized tours do away with the hassles of frequent travel bookings and transport arrangements etc. Hence this form of travel is preferred all over the World.      

Up in the Mountains

The road rises steeply as you climb up from Nainital, it curves and bends viciously as you move further up. This is the road to Pangot a hill resort chiefly visited by birders. On the way up the frightening climb, one comes across the spectacular view of the Himalayan Ranges and the Nainital District in Uttarakhand.

Many tourists from Nainital below climb halfway up to see this panoramic splendor of the Himalayas - if not engulfed by the fog. Layers of mountain ranges precede the magnificent range adding to the beauty of the landscape.

It snows in Pangot just any time as late as April making the drive a difficult proposition. A snowstorm can completely block the road to Pangot and tourists have to be evicted on foot - a long arduous walk. Make sure of the weather, the destination can be very gloomy and depressing whence engulfed by clouds and fog.   

The Pangot village is a sleepy place with few resorts that offer accommodation for birders. All around, the high-rise mountains surround the village situated on a plateau. When the snow falls, the mountain tops reflect strands of stark sunlight on the ground below that further enliven the scape. The slopes are covered by a dense forest of pine, birch, and oak and the ice stands out in contrast to lively green, the spectacle can best be described as mesmerizing. 

On a sunny day, the drive to the highest point Vinayak can be rewarding. This is where you get the best view of the Himalayas, the large span of the range stretches your eyes as you gaze at the unfolding panorama.  On the way, you come across barren mountains near the Gughu Khan a small sleepy hamlet with few chai shops that offer succor from the bitter cold. The cheer pheasant point allures birders to get a glimpse of the enigmatic cheer pheasant on the grassy slopes of the mountains. This bird is a rare sight and along with the Koklass Pheasant forms the birders' catch.    

The Himalayan Griffons and Lammergeier soar amidst the empty spaces of mountains over the steep valleys. They rise on the thermals and dip down into the valley searching for food displaying their amazing flying skills and rapacious strike power. Lammergeiers are known to pick up prey as big as lamb hence the name.  At night one can get a glimpse of the leopard and rare mountain wildlife. 

The landscape is dotted with small hamlets, a mix of forested and grassy slopes. In the deep valleys, rivulets crisscross through the maze of slaty stones in complete silence. The ethereal silence is a golden rule here and all elements seem to be at a standstill, frozen in time and space.  

The glaring sun creates a vivid pattern of light and shade on the slopes. The early morning light barely reaches the glens the effect is a ghostly contrast to the lively sky above.  

All around Pangot birds call at their best and the vivid colors that traverse through the canopies are a delight not only for birders but even for the nonchalant holidaymakers. From my resort Birding Lodge, I can see streamlined mountains and a long-pitched valley at the other end which is the Corbett Tiger Reserve. 

It is best to visit Pangot in winter for bird watching. The destination offers peace and tranquility to holidaymakers and honeymooners. Long walks at Kilbury or a drive to Bagger can be a pleasing experience. Pangot at a height of 2300 MSL is at a distance of 14 km from Nainital Township.   

Fast Changing Scapes - Urbanization in India

A journey anywhere in India is an exciting proposition irrespective of the road conditions. Natural India is beautiful and at times mesmerizing.  The green fields dotted with forest-clad hillocks and cute hamlets are what one expects with corresponding colors and changing countenance.

But to someone more discerning the rabid urbanization taking place foretells the damage. We drove from New Delhi to Nainital on a birding trip. The urbanization taking place is striking - it is everywhere. Concrete structures colonies, markets, eateries, factories, petrol pumps, and whatnot. The resultant filth and squalor are clearly visible along the way.    

It is all through the way, a painful reminder of what happened to natural lands during the agricultural revolution. The industrial revolution is a second offensive on natural lands in India. Ill-planned, rabid and reckless is how we can describe the concretization of our country. The structures are spreading around towns and cities like tentacles of Tarantula. 

Up on the hills, the scenario is worse, the road to Sat Tal (Bhim Tal) is the worst case. Throughout one finds hills dotted with colonies, houses, and hotels.  The construction in the hills is taking over the natural vegetation, forest-clad hills, bush country, rivers, and lakes. The natural beauty is a fast-diminishing factor here. Large chunks of natural land should be preserved in Uttranachal if the beauty has to remain. Devoid of any construction and inviolate, let me emphasize. 

I was saddened by the state of Sat Tal, one of the finest birding heaven, but how long it remain as such? We could feel the pinch as construction clears whatever is left of nature. Small niche habitats are being destroyed or cleared reducing species diversity. 

If India has to remain beautiful and attractive a planned approach towards urbanization is due.   

New Delhi

The city of ancient and modern edifices enthralls one and all. The capital city is the landing point for most of the inbound tourists in India. Besides New Delhi attracts thousands every day in search of jobs and carreer  adding to the ever growing conglomeration which including the NCR is the second largest in the World.

The city of Kutub Minar and Red Fort is an exotic admixture of ancient and modern India. The swanky roads are unique which carry the millions on cars, autos, buses and two wheelers. The metro or subway has added to the comfort of commuters sick of bustling traffic and frequent slow down thanks to traffic jams. 

On the roads the World seems to be on the move as one goes past the grandeur of  modern structures, offices, malls, five star hotels and uptown shopping centers. The city seems to be full of energy and vigour and expresses fantastic synergy with modern metropolis all over the World.

Paradoxically within the old by lanes things come to a slow down one practically  experiences a stand still.  Here one enters into an ancient era - India of old - which was once pride of the Mughals. Chandi Chowk in Old Delhi represents the exotic stereo typed Indian Baazar but nevertheless struggles to compete with Lutyens Delhi and contemporary modern surroundings that loom overpoweringly all around. 

The congested gullies of Chandini Chowk harbor old shops that sell traditional goods - some products of ancient civilizations that are still in use. This is an ideal place to fulfill once wishlist of out of the place and antique items that are unique to the country. 

For the first time visitor the experience is bizarre, the juxtaposition of edifices dating back to ancient India and looming skyscrapers. A conglomeration of junta living in layers of  civilization - ancient by traditions and ultra modern. The dirt, filth and squalor of busy baazars, congested localities and rural dwellings engulfed by the great metropolitan surroundings invite a cultural shock.      

The ultra modern city belies expectation of stray cows, snake charmers, magicians and naked fakirs. The International Airport stuns first time visitors as a grand architectural marvel of modern India. The sights and smells of this city is best experienced in old part - devoid of sterilized aroma of the bustling metro. Smells of bustling milieu, aromatic spices, foods, choked sewer, cow dung coupled with auto exhaust engulf the nostrils to the brim. This is India as it lives bereft of modernity.     

The cultural diversity is an amazing product of history of invasions and domination, repression and loot. Of many civilizations and dynasties that have stamped a deep rooted impressions on the cities landscape and its junta.  The pot potpourri is a result of thousand years of tortured history of wars and constant influx of invaders from Mughals to British. In contemporary India migrants have given a new twists to Delhi's flavors and astounding colors.  

The roadside eateries and Punjabi Dhabas are unique in the World besides exotic foreign restaurants and desi curry joints - all regional foodstuff is available here. For the connoisseurs of gastronomic delights the capital city is one stop gateway to Indian Foods. Eat what you want but ask first if you are a stranger to the city.

The major attractions are Red Fort, Kutub Minar, Lodhi Garden, Jantar Mantar,Laximi Narain Temple, India Gate, Parliament Building, Rastrapati Bhavan, ISKON Temple, Bahai Lotus Temple, Humayun's Tomb, Purana Kila, Birla Mandir, Akshardham and Jama Masjid.