Bandhavgarh Pristine Paradise and Amazing Fort

In remote district of Madhya Pradesh or Central India lie the amazing imprints of an ancient human civilization.  The Rewa forests were known more by Shikari’s and wood loggers than others. It was a chance discovery of white tiger that brought Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve to the World tourist map.   The white tiger was found near these forests by the erstwhile Maharajah if Rewa estate.

The tiger reserve is situated in Umaria District a forest belt with dense canopy and tribal hamlets.  Since more than two thousand years tigers and humans lived together in this wilderness. Unlike the modern times there was no conflict between the two then. But civilization came one after the other and vanished into antiquity. The tigers remained but badly decimated by shikaris and poachers, the forest where ravaged and their wealth plundered. Today forests survive as small pockets scattered here and there.

Though a small reserve, Bandhavgarh is an enchanting paradise on Earth. Amidst the dense Sal forests lie ruins of ancient kingdom.  Scattered around are man made caves, stables, temples in ruin and shelters carved out of igneous rocks. The climb to Shesh Shaiyya is steep and rugged but rewarding. This mesmerizing pool besides the reclining statue of Lord Vishnu enthralls one and all. The ferns, vines, shrubs adorn the whole scape on the slopes of Bandhavgarh Hill. The pool is fed by trickles of water and miniature falls from the vegetation on the slope. Tigers splash in the pool whence devoid of humans.

From Shesh Shaiyya it is a steep climb to the top of the hill where in lies the magnificent 2000 year fort in ruins.  The hillock is at height of 800 MSL and is part of the Vindhya Range. It towers over the conglomeration of marshy grasslands, deep valleys and dense forest belts, fed by snaking rivulets all around. The place offers a panoramic view of the reserve.  The first spectacle is the arch still preserved but tampered by later dynasties. The second good spectacle is of a tall statue of Lord Vishnu on the edge over looking the forests below.  Then between stretches of grasslands there lie scattered large reservoirs all man made.  The statues of Lord in fish and turtle forms intrigue as do all zoomorphic depictions in this reserve.  The Laxman Temple stands near the rampart and is regularly visited by the worshipers.     

The ruins are scattered all over, the fort was not plundered or destroyed but disentangled with passage of times. But the process could not envelope the stone and masonry work which still remain.  Some structures still remain. The site is a virtual museum of ancient architecture and delightful carvings of Gods and Goddesses. There are many small temples within the fortification and more structures that are little away from the main complex. There are historical reference to it in ancient Hindu scriptures.

The plateau now back to wilderness supports lot of life forms including tigers and leopards. It is eerie and scary to be up there alone in the lost kingdom. The Fort is enchanting and esoteric - worth a visit if you wish to experience ancient India.

There are many places of interest near the park. Most of the accommodation in Bandhavgarh is offered by jungle resorts both luxurious and budget. Book hotels in advance to  avoid heavy seasonal rush. You can book Indian tiger tour as well at MP online kiosks. There are many affordable tour operator packages In MP that conduct wildlife safaris in the tiger reserve. the best season is winters but hot summer offers a unique ambiance to the visitors. 

The National Park is approachable from Jabalpur and directly from New Delhi up to Umaria by Rail. It is at a distance of 170 plus km from Jbp which is connected by Air with New Delhi. All tiger reserves, Khajuraho and Pachmarhi can be reached from Jabalpur in Madhya Pradesh. 

Making a hotel booking in India

India is a marvelous and colorful destination with lot of freedom and diversity. It is fun to travel from one part of the country to another and experience the cross cultural diversity and varied ethnic profiles. The people are very hospitable and warm, it is good to mix with local families and communities.

There are hardly any orthodox communities, hence it is easy and fun to mingle with them men women children all. Some people are sensitive about food as they are vegetarians but not anything else....may be places of worship..you should enter bare feet. And yes try to war local garb or Indian dress you will really be accepted fast. Do not trust single men for they may be trouble makers. Some people on roadside or destinations are very curious about foreign visitors, politely brush them aside. 

Safe Travel 

Anyway traveling in the country is safe provided you take basic precautions that you would take in any other country. The more planned your itinerary is the better it is. Your holiday can get mired in bewildering confusing in this large country without preplanned efforts. In deep recess you may not find modern amenities and facilities so purchase all your stuff and carry along. Find before hand what is available and what is not? 

Hotel Reservation

Many Indian hotels have not yet gone online in a proper way.  Making a hotel search and having an online tour of the accommodation is not that easy. The website are built haphazardly hence you do not get a good impression of the property. 

The hotel owners are not aware of online marketing or have little faith in it. Since online search is limited in India but booking does come from a properly placed site on SERPs. If you have no contact in the destination you are visiting than the travel agent, review sites and word of mouth is your only information source. These are unreliable at times so you may not find things as had been told to you.

Take a destination guide that would be a great help. Some guides like Lonely Planet are very reliable. These are one stop shop for travel and related information. Carry one with you always. Read as much about India as you can with focus on the route you are taking and the destinations to be visited.  

The lanes and by lanes where the hotel is situated may be confusing. In the maze of Indian mega city it is easy to get lost and loose your stay. Best is to take a card and phone number before you step out. Even if you need a local guide ask your hotelwalla. He is gaining from you so will he hesitate to help you. 

In this country all properties in cities and tourism destinations have touts or roadside booking agents. Your rickshaw wallah, auto driver, taxi driver will help you in booking but then they have their own loyalties. You would be lucky if you get to the right place for a stay.  But this also time wasting since you may have to rush immediately for a meeting.

Online Bookings

So the only recourse are websites online with proper information some review sites like trip adviser, fodors, frommers, travel post and the about.com are reliable source. There are many blogs and websites like brand hotels Worldwide that offer reliable information since they have no loyalties with any one.  But at the most this contains little information.

When making reservations online do not just send your stay information and send money. It is better to get full information  using the online form. After few conversations you can take the plunge.

Tour Formalities

So it remains difficult for a visitor from foreign country to choose an accommodation online. Any once you have landed at your destination hotel resort than what. Well first you need an identity card like your passport. For Indians driving license, Income tax pan card will do for identity. An ATM card does not work please remember. 

For inbound visitors it is important that their arrival and departure information is passed to the nearest police station. You have to fill forms in which passport information is submitted. It is the resort owners responsibility to see that the information is submitted to the police. Fill in the booking information for sure. The hotels have a common register for noting down the bookings this is compulsory and you are secure once your details are noted down. Do keep friends and relatives informed as to where you have stepped in.  The precautions are necessary if your are putting up at a budget lodge or a cheap city inn. Some areas may be unsafe in a destination so try to find out the locality and do not stay there. And yes do not move around late or avoid travel at night.  

Before checking in you must have visited the room and made sure of you comforts. In the room keep all your valuable locked or deposit them in a hotel locker. Take special care of your passport and money loosing either of them will be terribly. As and when you move out make sure that you hire a taxi or auto that the accommodation provides. Hence you will be traveling locally with somebody known. Most of the hotels and resorts are in touch with travel services hence it is safer to hire through them.   

On the first day of the stay make sure of the food. Indian cuisine is marvelous but you can make request to lower down a thing or two specially chillies. Never at at roadside joints in case of emergency pick up a plain vegetable, roti or naan all hot right out of the pan. Carry branded mineral water all along.

Ignore the consternation and uncertainty. India is a wonderful country with lots to offer in varied niche sectors in tourism. Read a lot on travel basics and the come home for many a magical journeys.   

How India Travels!

People in India travel a lot especially during festivals, in weddings, on holy occasions and in holidays. The most eager traveler is the rural folks who are not privileged enough to go on holidays.  The people of the country are tradition keepers hence change does not come fast. 

India still travels in rail. The Indian Railway provides the most popular mode of transport to the people. Incidentally it is the cheapest as well as most networked system. No wonder Indian rail journeys are most written about. The journey can be very comfortable if you are traveling in air conditioned class with a reserved berth. But not many can afford it.  

The largest number of travelers crowd the trains and buses during holy occasions like the Kumbh Mela.  This is followed by those going in to attend a political rally. Seasonal travel during holidays - Diwali, Post Exam (summer), Holi, Marriages, create the worst kind of rush in the trains. The tickets are booked in advance and it is very difficult to step in the sleeper class.  

Bus is another mode of cheap transport in the land - and worst. Most of the state run buses are ill equipped for luxury and comfort but then they are the cheapest. For luxury and comfort the answer is luxury bus services. They are costly but nevertheless preferred by upper class since travel by personal car is costlier. 

Air Travel is unthinkable if you have less money or your company does not sanction. Most of the air travelers are Government employees, Employees of big companies and the jet set who have fat load of money. The middle class flies only in emergency or during pressing need for quick travel.     

It is the only way. If you wish to experience the land from close train travel is the best followed by a bus or  taxi. Taxi is very costly used only by corporate big wigs and tourists on holiday. For holiday makers from foreign countries taxi is most recommended. It is most comfortable to travel for short distances from one destination to another. Car Rentals and Motor Home rentals are available as well but it is not yet very popular in India.    

Traveling Attire in India

India is a diverse country with varied climate and weather conditions. It is a country where lifestyle changes from one place to other. This is the impact of diverse culture which is ever evolving. The major difference can be noted in culture are in spoken language or dialect, food preferences and attire. 

Physical features are common though ethnic differences can be noted. Tribal and other ethic communities are more varied and distinct. People in Central plains and Deccan are look alike with minor differences.  Due to the size of the country an amazing diversity is prevalent. This is what is appealing about this land where landscape, people and weather changes by the distance.

Visitors from foreign countries as well as many locals are stunned by ever changing India. But in spite of differences people exhibit some common characteristic. The people of this country love age old tradition which they do not distance from even under the garb of modernity.

Hence tourist interested in assimilating with the people while on visit should first realize the local traditions. Wearing local dress is found to be more acceptable by Indians. Another benefit is revealing dress is avoided since some people are not used to it. Revealing outfit may invite a bunch of eve teasers which can be trouble some. 

There are dresses in local communities which are typically for men and women. While women have more covered up garb, men can wear scanty clothing in case of heat and humidity. The urban class in this land  has a common dress code i.e pant and shirt for men and sari or salwar kameez for women. Some women  and all young girls in cities wear jeans, t shirts and frocks. But older women prefer traditional garments especially if they are divorced of widowed. The wedding dress is rich embroidered or embellished with colorful motifs made of gold silver threads called Zari.        

In rural areas customary dress is very common and typical to the region. Hence every region or state in the country has its own traditional garb.  This applies to the whole sub continent - Pakistan, Nepal, Bangla Desh and neighboring island Sri Lanka.  People in states have distinct clothing choice especially in rural areas. 

The Indian clothing is highly colorful and embellished at times though instances of plain garb can be encountered especially among the poor or very conservative lot.  During festivals lot of dress styles emerge colorful, sparkling  bright and as vivacious as the occasion. Similarly in marriages gaiety of the event is best expressed by traditional  garbs - kurta pajama, sherwani, salwar kameez, colorful embroidered saree, lehanga choli and lungi. The latter is more popular in Southern India.  

In Northern India and Pakistan Shalwar Kameez is more popular. It is Like the sari this dress has crossed International boundaries and hence is available in stores in Dubai, UK, USA and other parts of Europe. The top rated fashion designers in Pakistan have glamorized this dress. 

The saree is popular all over India and appears in mind boggling  patterns, colors and designs. The fashion industry is burgeoning in the country. Hence traditions Indian Sari  & Suits are popular in many countries. There are many stores which sell these online. In many foreign countries shops keep fashion and traditional clothing from India. The traditional clothing with regional flavors are not available anywhere else. One can buy such garbs while on tour to that destination.   

Traditional garments in the sub continent compliment the society and are user friendly. They are weather compliant and soothing to the eyes of the locals. Hence you as foreign tourist will feel at home among the ethnic lots.   

Mahakaleshwar - Abode of Lord Shiva

This is where one of the 12 Jyotirlinga (Shiva Lingam) resides, besides the Rudra Sagar Lake. It is one of the holiest destination of the Hindus on pilgrimage. This is the only South facing or dakshin muki temple among the twelve Jyotirlinga. The temple lies within the center of Ujjain city on Kshipra River in Malwa in MP.   

Besides the lingam there reside idols of many Hindu Gods including Nandi in the premises. Nandi Bull is the vehicle of Shiva as always portrayed alongside the Lord.  The temple overpowers the holy city of Ujjain and is an an architectural marvel. The fine carvings and sculptural finesse creates and aura of awe and majestic splendor.  

During ancient times the city was called Avantika and once ruled by Chandrasen an ardent devotee of Shiva. The city was protected by the Lord against warring neighbors who had an evil eyes on its treasures. There are numerous temples within and outside the confines of the Holy City. Those on long stay can visit the temples in order to explore the religious places of importance.

Madhya Pradesh destinations

The major tourism destinations in Madhya Pradesh are of course the tiger reserves Khajuraho Temples  and Pachmarhi Hill Resort. But then one cannot forget Amarkantak, Orchha and Mandu. For the religious kind Amarkantak, Sanchi, Omkareshwar, Chitrakoot, Maheshwar (Maheshwari Sarees), Bhojpur and Ujjain are a must visit.  

Major towns must visit are Jabalpur, Indore, Gwalior and Bhopal for food, commerce and sightseeing historical monuments. Jabalpur is the best conduit for the tiger reserves - Kanha, Bandhavgarh, Pench and Satpura National Park. One can also reach Khajuraho & Panna tiger reserve via Bandhavgarh or from Satna/Katni. For sightseeing Jabalpur has the famous Mable Rocks, Dhuandhar Falls, Chausathjogini and the Madan Mahal Fort. 

There are many lesser known destination worth visiting in Madhya Pradesh but proper research should be done before moving in. Among Hill Resorts Pachmarhi takes the cake. It is a pristine forest with magical landscape - Valleys, forest clad mountains, ancient temples and numerous waterfalls.   

For those averse to making rigorous travel arrangement package tours to MP are best. The tour companies do all the work for for a hassle free holiday in Central India. Though English is in use everywhere a touch of Hindi Dialect would make things easier. In rural and distant areas banking and shopping would be limited. Hence it is better to pack oneself with the prerequisite before leaving.

Traveling in the state is safe but still it is better not to be on road during the night time. One should keep one's valuable in sight since minor theft can take place. 

Chambal Pristine & Esoteric

The river is an epitome of purity, less damaged by polluting industries and urbanity. It is surrounded by enigmatic low rise sandy mountains that create an amazing maze of ravines. The ravines are topped by scanty thorn forest of Babul typical of arid and semi arid zones in India. The amazing spectacle of ravines and river flowing through spell binds and intrigues.

Chambal was once notorious for harboring Dacoits like Phoolan Devi, Daku Man Singh, Tehsildar Singh,  Daku Madho Singh, Mohar Singh, Chhidda Makhan  and others. Decimated gangs of dacoits or bandits still patrol the region giving sleepless nights to the law and order machinery.  Anyway all the Cat and Mouse chase has been effective in curbing the menace. The menace has not hampered tourism and is limited to rural environment perhaps dominated by local politics.    

For the travelers visit to Chambal River Sanctuary is the easiest way to experience the rivers magnificence.  The panoramic river cruise on motor boats is and enchanting experience.  The river is home to two crocodilians the mugger and gharial besides the Gangetic river dolphin. The fauna is amazing  eight species of freshwater turtles, smooth coated otter, jackal, hyena, fox, and some nocturnal mammals. 

The bird life is interesting one can see Indian Skimmer, Great Stone Plover,  Long Legged Buzzard, Osprey, Black-bellied terns, Sarus Crane, Woolly Necked Stork, Black-necked storks, Bar Headed Goose, ruddy Shelduck, teals, Bonelli's Eagle, Laggar Falcon, Sand Lark, Brook's Leaf Warbler, stilts, Comb duck and more.

The vegetation is diverse depending upon the region the river traverses through. Nevertheless vegetation is dominated by arid zone floral elements. The geology is diverse with sedimentation and soil types that are much varied.      

A short visit is worth it perhaps few hours of boat ride and birding on the shores. MPT facilitates motorboat ride at affordable fee at Dholepur in Rajasthan. MPT is on the Madhya Pradesh. part of the river across the bridge.    

Winter travel in India

It is important to take basic precaution during India tour in winters. Severe winter ranges from mid December to mid January. In some hilly areas it may stretch for longer period. The severity may occur anytime hence one has to be prepared to face it. 

Exposure to cold could be more frequent and extensive hence on needs to be best equipped. Warm inner, sweaters, jackets, socks, head gear and  hand gloves should be with the traveler all the time. Some basic accommodations may not have a heating system hence an extra quilt should be in one's bag always.  

High altitude may not suit travelers with breathing problems hence should be avoided. Places above 1400 m can be quiet uncomfortable for such travelers. 

It is wiser to carry all prescribed medicine for those susceptible to cold and high altitude. The cold is not restricted to North India it can be severely cold in Rajasthan and Madhya Pradesh at Places. A good doctor may be able to give apt advise to travelers in India during winters. Masala tea or ginger tea proves very good for cold and cough. Try it! Any chaiwala will make you a ginger tea.

Due to fog flights, rail and even road traffic may come to a stop hence on should keep an alternate travel recourse well planned in advance.  Even tough winter is a healthier season in India road side food and water should be avoided at all cost.

It is better to make your trips during the day and return to hotel in the evening since the cold gets worse after sunset. The nature is at its best during the winters and the landscapes splendid enjoy your travel in this incredible country. 

Nainital Tour

As we climbed up the road to Pangot from Nainital township the landscape began to change. The snow all along the road made matter worse. But the driver of our bus handling the vehicle expertly and we were assured. The tourist from UK had never experienced all this. 

As you climb higher on the road to Pangot the sight of Himalayan Range is breathtaking. One can see a long stretch of the magnificent Himalayan Range if there are no clouds. breathtaking is what my guests described it as.

Pangot is about fourteen km from Nainital township and is visited most by birders. Birding is the major activity at this hamlet. It snows in Pangot albeit less frequently sometimes blocking the road to Nainital township. Major birding stops are Kilbury, Bagad, Vinayak, Gugghu Khan and the township itself. 

The place clean and unspoiled by ubiquitous plastic that you see everywhere in the district of Nainital. The plastic is littered everywhere in rivulets, roads and countryside. It is surprising that no removal system exists since Nainital is a prime tourist destination. Most of the visitors are young couples on honeymoon. The inbound tourists from foreign countries come here mostly for birding at Sat Tal and Pangot. 

The next destination is Corbett Tiger Reserve for tiger safaris and birding as well. Corbett is a well known destination.  As a tour escort of destination management company I enjoy visits to Nainital. Most of my tours are for bird watching and it is exciting to be at Sattal, Pangot and Corbett National Park.   

North India Travel

Traveling is one way of experiencing India well only way perhaps. My recent travel along North Corridor for birding was a delightful experience. The trip starts at New Delhi and goes long like a maze. The birding circuit often covers Corbett Tiger Reserve, Sat Tal, Pangot, Chambal River Sanctuary, Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary and adjoining places of birding interest. Agra of course Taj & Fateh Pur Sikri & Red Fort + Lunch.   

India has an impressive list of birds and it is a sheer delight to see them. The bird heavens are still in preserved state. But we may loose some until unless we care for our wilderness both in towns and hill resorts. 

As tour escort at service for people from far and wide, I love to see our beloved country through scope of others. The colors and flavors of India touch one and all. The diversity amazes visitors the amazing pot pourri and a mixed basket of throbbing life. The food is delicious! "Why serve us continental food we prefer Indian gastronomic delights?" "Please lot of Masala!" "Tandoori Aha!"

No wonder India is Incredible by all means augmented by our warmth, hospitality and love.  But then India is also a chaos of traffic jams, road blocks, bumps, loud speakers, rude drivers, dirt, filth and loo on the roads.  The sewage, nullahs and roadside reek of thousand tons of caramelized shit! Yeek!  As much as India amazes the disgust on the negative is apparent. Though politely  set aside there are sometimes remarks.

My answers

"A large number of people. You know!"

"Poverty!"

"Illiteracy!"

What else! Just see the swanky New Delhi International Airport ....can't we change our country for much better this way. Can't some of us handle waste better...at number of places the Use Me container lies vacant with rubbish all around. Sometimes it is over filled with no service to dispatch it. One can go on. Yes most of us are doing our bit perhaps doing more and more is for better. 

Anyway I still recollect the colors of rural India some very clean villages and lush green fields. The visitors  appreciate and are intrigued with life so different from modern India. 

"Look there are so many people in bazaars, but every one is working!"

"Look so many people on trains, buses, rickshaws!"..Click, click, click.     

"An Indian Wedding?" "Oh Yes!" Click click click..

"A religious procession?" "Oh Yes!" Click click click
"Children going to school everywhere. Great!" 

The is stunning ...the long stretch of ghostly white Himalayas on way up to Pangot at Naini Tal District.     

Birding in India is thrilling and so is Indian Wildlife. Hence an extension to Kanha National Park in MP. Another experience the chaos and turbulence of crowd on Railway Stations. The confusing movement of trains across many platforms. Our very own Great Indian Railway a transportation wonder that moves India. From the impoverished settlements of Industrial towns the scape leads to beautiful surrounds of rural India and some stunning landscapes. The first AC coach offers lot of comfort not withstanding the toilet.    

The extension benefits the Indian package tour operator but onus lies on me to track the tiger. Nevertheless we see one in spite of bad weather. Another stunning masterpiece of nature the charismatic tiger! In absolute rapture!

"It is India wildlife tour next"! Shout my guests filled up to the brim with the magical appearance of the tiger.  

Incredible India! Yes lets make it better and better!