Bandhavgarh Historical Treasure Trove of Ancient Artifacts & Civilizational Remains

White Tiger Story 

The strip of pristine Sal forests was once the hunting reserve of Maharajahs of Rewa Estate during the pre-independence period. The last Maharajah was a hunter turned conservationist, and is credited with discovering and nurturing the white tiger. Mohan, the white tiger cub was found in the forests of Sidhi an hour's drive from Bandhavgarh then contiguous. 

Mohan was raised at Govindgarh Fortress by the Maharajah, and all the white tigers around the World are his progeny. Without much scientific pursuit, Maharajah Martandsinghji raised and increased the population, thanks to his understanding of big cat behavior and diligence.  The strip of Sal forests where the cub was discovered is now known as Sanjay Dubri National Park. Both parks are situated in Central India in the state of Madhya Pradesh. 

Bandhavgarh Civilization Where Time Stands Still 

Much before the white cub was discovered in these contiguous forests tribes had found succor in the deep confines of the Sal forests. There were two prominent reasons for the existence of civilization in the inaccessible forests of Bandhavgarh. 

Primary reason was based on the security provided by the steep cliffs and tabletop mountains without access. The reason was to avoid conflicts with neighboring tribes, and kingdoms. Bandhavgarh Fort at the height of 800 plus MSL provided an easy lookout to thwart invasions.  

It was the Gond Tribes aligned with Rajputs that built the first structures, this was perhaps more than two thousand years back. The mention in ancient Hindu Scriptures date around two thousand years. As the story goes Lord Ram during his exile gifted the Fort to brother Laxman hence the name. 

At heights, time stands still and you can experience the ambiance as it was back before humans arrived. Now your company will be zoomorphic idols and wild animals. 

Recent Archeological Discoveries at Bandhavgarh 

Most of the structures are carved out of the igneous rocks prevailing in the region. The civilizational remains are spread out over a large region covering more than 2000 sq.km. While Fort Complex was known from earlier times including the magnificent idols of Lord Vishnu in zoomorphic forms new artifacts and structures have been discovered recently by the ASI or Archeological Survey of India. 

Based on newspaper reports, Hindu Temples, idols, inscriptions on stones, and cave walls have been discovered recently. ASI has also found Buddhist Stupas in the region authenticating Buddhist influence in the region.  

Recent discoveries include:

• 26 Hindu Temples
• Two Monastries 
• 19 Reservoirs 
• Votive Stupas 
• 24 Inscriptions 
• 46 Sculptures 
• 26 Caves

More is expected to be discovered making Bandhavgarh a treasure trove of ancient civilizational remains. The period mentioned dates to Raja Bhimsena, Maharajah Potteseri & Maharajah Bhattdeva of Kalchuri Dynasties.  Some remains date back to the 2nd or 3rd Century AD. Some of the manmade caves date back to the 2nd Century BC highlighting civilization dating such a long time back.  

The link from India Times News elaborates the discoveries for the readers. 

Turbulence in Sylvan Surroundings 

The remote and peaceful confines of the Bandhavgarh Forests were not very peaceful as such due to the constant internecine battles that raged between different dynasties that had come to rule the Bandhavgarh Fort, now in complete ruins. Stables, courts, ramparts, and cave shelters are all suggestive of an expanded turbulent era.  

The Baghels were the last to rule this tribal refuge, and Maharajah Martandsinghji was the last ruler of the region. The Baghels had shifted their capital to Rewa a long time back, but the fort complex was well looked after. A Ram Laxman Janki Temple still stands as a testimony. However, most of the remains were out of human capacity to preserve due to inaccessibility and extreme climatic conditions. Air and water erosion brought lot many structures and artifacts to dust. 

The Pujari 

The royals still pay for the priestly service at the Hindu temple. The old Pujari a legendary figure who trudged the tiger-infested forests for the temple's upkeep is no more. His son now follows the same routine without fail. 

 

Most charismatic sights greet tourists now, especially the spectacle at Sesh Shaiyya or reclining Vishnu. The fort complex is out of bounds, but the zoomorphic idols of Lord Vishu are well preserved.  I was lucky to visit the fort complex a couple of decades back. 

Bandhvagarh Tiger Refuge 

The destination is now a tiger reserve and a National Park and is home to enchanting biodiversity and the Bengal Tiger. Only the forest staff shares accommodation with the big cats and the civilizational structures are completely bereft of human presence. 

The tiger rules over the dizzy heights of the park's 32 steep cliffs and breeds in the panoramic landscape. The reserve is a biodiversity hub with more than 22 Central India Mammals, reptiles, insects, and avians.  The floral habitats and the mountain rivers support incredible wilderness in an area comprising more than 1100 sq. km. 

Except for the forest guards and tourists in 20 % of the core, the belligerent erstwhile soldiers and their rulers are nowhere in the picture, the only conquest that is slated at Bandhavgarh is the conservation of the endangered species. 

Exploring Bandhavgarh 

Tourism is organized at Bandhavgarh  National Park every year. You can explore the pristine paradise by booking a permit at MPOnline Portal belonging to MP State. Day and evening safaris are organized in open jeeps and canters. But please book well in advance including the hotel accommodations in the buffer region.

Park is closed during the monsoon from 1 July to 30th September. You can reach the destination from Jabalpur Airport at 170 km or from the neighboring cities of Satna and Katni. Jabalpur provides the best access for inbound tourists from overseas. 

At Bandhavgarh, The Blood Soaked Sun Hangs Listless Over the Mountain Tops

Tribal Structures of Bandhavgarh

Hectic urban life comes to a standstill as you set foot into the realm of the tribal and the tiger.

All alone, I stood on the tabletop mountain, transfixed by the looming spectacle of Lord Vishnu Idol on the precipice. For a small-time travel writer, losing oneself in the void is awe-inspiring, and a pathway to creativity.  As we traverse through the passage of life, we realize that some moments are indelible, and even in a state of memory flux, they hang onto you like an old family portrait on the wall. I could visualize the historical moment more than two thousand years back when the zoomorphic idol was deftly carved out of the igneous rock and placed on the precipice. As you stand aside the lion-faced Visnu idol, you can visualize the Universe below your feet, and above you, the massive ball of fire blood-soaked to the brim reminds you that life is real.

Bandhavgarh Grassland

The statue hung in a timeless space all around me dwelling in eternity in an ambiance of absolute silence and serenity. Bandhavgarh is one place in India where art and history come together in the remote wilderness. Driven by passion and faith, the tribal of Bandhavgarh carved timeless masterpieces that still linger like a nature quiz with many questions unanswered.

With all the available land in the open plains, why did the tribal venture deep into the forest to create this fascinating architectural complex?  It was certainly a matter of faith, and the zoomorphic idols and the ancient structures are a bold statement. Another reason was to avoid the ravage of frequent wars with the neighboring clans. 

Bengal Tiger

The aging rock structures are all black, buff, and steel blue colored by the vermillion paste and impregnating layers of microscopic vegetation. Well preserved, somewhat pock marked by erosion, the zoomorphic idols are the road to the rediscovery of our ancient culture.

The inert, aging, idols are a rejuvenating sight when you venture into the mystical land. Bandhavgarh Fort hangs in total ruins in the large complex,  but scattered architectural marvels have survived the evolutionary forces that prevail on the Earth. In life nothing is permanent, but incredulously these idols seem to overpower the phenomenon called change. Lord Vishnu manifests here as tortoise, fish, boar, and lion. The aging brick walls, large reservoirs, and crumbling temple structures are found all around the complex. Only three temples stand in a perfect state of preservation perhaps built much later by a victorious Maharajah. Laxman  Temple stands apart and is much visited by locals on holy occasions. A priest trudges 11km from the Tala village to tend to the Hindu temple. Tigers hide in the grassland and prowl all around the complex, they frequent the place to breed and hunt. The place is out of bounds for tourists now. Tigers rule Bandhvagarh! 

Bandhavgarh More Than A Tiger Land

Gond tribal inhabited this land, and ruled over the vast stretch of forests that have now been fractured and culled beyond our imagination. Bandhavgarh is the land of the tiger, but it is much more. On one visit it becomes apparent that the paradise holds sights of wild animals, birds, and ancient marvels that are going to make your holiday in the wild incredulous.

Historical scars proliferate the ruins and depict tales of conquests and defeats. Many dynasties came to rule the region and were vanquished when overpowered. Situated at the height of 800 MSL the highest mountain is called Bandhavgarh which gave the tiger reserve and National Park its name. All around are steep cliffs and tabletop mountains embedded amidst the forest glades and deep glens fed by sparking mountain rivulets that create an absorbing panoramic landscape. The picturesque terrain is a spectacle beyond belief, and it excites the sensory apparatus at one go.  The mountain fort at the top was a gift to brother Laxman by Lord Rama as the story goes and hence named Bandhavgarh (Bandhav = brother, Garh=Fort).  A large crowd of tribal and locals walk through the forest and negotiate the steep ascent to the fort during Ram Navmi and other Hindu festivals as an annual pilgrimage. On that day, the out-of-bound tiger reserve is open to the pious.

Sesh Shaiyya or Reclining Vishnu lies midway, a thankful respite for the weary pilgrims. While the fort complex is out of bounds for the tourists  Shesh Shaiyya is not. It is a fairy tale grove shaded by Jamun and Sal towering over an inert pool covered with moss and algae.

A twenty feet reclining idol of Lord Vishnu crowned by a multiheaded cobra lies beside the pool. Water trickles down like a minuscule fall from between thick ferns and grass creating a mesmerizing spectacle. This is the spot to be to realize the essence of this enchanting paradise.  Traces of vermillion, scattered flowers, and exhausted incense sticks indicate that the fort priests and tourists on tiger safari pray to the Lord on frequent visits. Hinduism is a colorful religion with ample freedom to pray with few restrictions.

Situated in Central India, Bandhavgarh National Park is ideal for tiger safari holidays. One needs to book permits and accommodations in advance. The park is closed during the monsoon from July to September end.

For booking holidays contact MP Tiger Safari Company: +91 8889469120

teetiger@hotmail.com       

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Read More Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve

Perspective: Kipling's Portrayal of Wild Animals in Human Forms in "Jungle Book" Set in Highlands of Central India

Kipling Country Geography - Central Indian Highlands

Although Kipling's Jungle Book revolves around Seoni Hills, the turbulent tiger landscape was a part of the Central Indian Highlands a contiguous forest patch encompassing more than 10000 sq. km. The Sal, Teak, and mixed forests are home to incredible biodiversity in the State of Madhya Pradesh. Incidentally, Seoni Hills now encompass Pench Tiger Reserve where BBC filmed the famous documentary "The Spy in The Jungle".  

The Central Indian Highlands were much accounted for by Captain James Forsyth a British explorer in the 18th Century in his book the "Highlands of Central India". The primary focus of the narrative was the terrain, wildlife, and humans of Satpura Range which meets Vindhya Range at Maikal Hills in Amarkantak.  

Tiger 

In the context of habitat continuity and matching terrain, it is difficult to limit Kipling Country to any particular region in Central India that formally straddled the Vidharbha region as well. The region comprises similar habitats with a little variance except for the niche ecosystems at places due to the impact of local geography and floral content.   

Maps portraying the geographical boundaries of present-day India differed from antecedents during British Rule. While it is meaningless to broach this topic, the author wishes to redefine Kipling's Country from a true geographical perspective and allay the conflict regarding the placement of Kipling Country. The geographical composition that Kipling pens in all the chapters of "Jungle Book" is prevalent from the origin of the Satpura to the whole of Vindhya an interconnected region now irrevocably fragmented. 

“If history were taught in the form of stories, it would never be forgotten.”

― Rudyard Kipling, The Collected Works 

Kipling's Personification of Wild Animals 

Sher Khan the antihero is a legendary tertiary carnivore ironically crowned King of the jungle by man and is now critically endangered. The antihero fits well in the epic in the human context since Kipling skillfully brought forth the denizens of the jungle into life with their portrayal based as humans. Anyway, a story does well with a well-defined hero as the central character and an adversary hell-bent on destroying the hero and usurping all the goodies that come along with a win. 

The personification of wild animals though a brilliant piece of work is nothing new, and in time immemorial the personification is apparent in the Holy Ramayana a factual narrative. While the phenomenon is attributed to the Supreme in the latter, Kipling's portrayal is a masterstroke of esoteric fiction. No wonder the Nobel Laurette was a genius of his times. It is difficult for a human to transfer our behavioral characteristics to beings incapable of emotions related to premeditated responses like vengeance, lust, fear, happiness, sadness, and empathy. 

“Words are, of course, the most powerful drug used by mankind.”

― Rudyard Kipling

Kipling successfully endowed these behavioral characteristics to wild animals in his epic novel. No wonder the write-up was a legendary success despite being based in a dark time of extreme poverty and foreign subjugation. The human portrayal does not reflect the times since the very concept of the book dwells in the esoteric. Kiping was a white supremacist as I read in some articles, nevertheless, Indians have built a museum in his honor. Even after 75 years of independence, we are not able to shrug off the traits that define slave mentality, and for many, the white man stays superior. Indians are susceptible to non-native esoteric ideologies that flout native concepts.    (All the creation and infrastructure during the Raj has come at a cost and the natives paid a heavy price for that to the erstwhile masters.) (And we still goad over the gifts). 

The Jungle Book narrative is excellent for imaginary recreational pursuit but it does carry a wrong message.

Victimizing the Tiger & Impact of Literature 

The tiger is, by all means, an animal considered at the top of the food pyramid, and labeled as King of the jungle. Nonetheless, he is portrayed as an antihero thirsting for the manchild's blood. The portrayal in several folklores including modern portrayals like in the Jungle Book has victimized the animal no end. This characterization of the big cat stems from the age-old threat perception of predators during those times in many parts of the World. The tiger in India was relentlessly slaughtered in the guise of human safety, its habitat destroyed as an agrarian necessity, and hunted down to prove killer instinct and masculinity in young officers during the Raj. 

I read a book by an Indian author stating that in a period of ten years around 25 thousand tigers were butchered for a small price paid to the hungry vermin killers. It is not only the economic price we have paid for slavery at hands of the Mughals and the British, the cultural and demographic sacrifices, and the human toll has exceeded the limits set by genocide in the present context. 

Pachmarhi

Despite the absence of anti tiger narrative in the Hindu Pantheon, the Maharajahs and Indian elites were as much responsible for the pathetic status of the tiger in Pre and Post Independent India. It was pure recreation justified by the unchallenged power of the throne, bestowed masculine perceptions and the religious sanctities accorded by the priests. The Satraps left no stones unturned to please their masters during and even after the Raj. In post-independent India, substantial revenue was generated from tiger shoots besides the ongoing slaughter. It was the WPA 1972 that stemmed the rot. More than 3000 tigers survive today thanks to intense tiger conservation.

Akela The Wolf & Other Predators 

Akela's paternal endearment towards Mowgli, acceptance as a pack member, and Baloo and Bagheera's emotional attachment to the naked child are the personification of the human form. But ironically, the depiction clearly points toward the superiority of humans over lesser beings. We have yet to acknowledge that Earth belongs to all life forms.  Baloo the bear, and Baghira are badly treated in human confines and the latter is on verge of extinction in India. 

The story portrays Kaa the python, Tabaqui (Jackal), and other birds and animals as ugly and evil and this does not help in changing human perceptions about these beautiful creatures. Though there was no malicious intent as far as the book is concerned the characterization does no good. The predators are now on the list of critically endangered animals.  

Highlands of Central India 

This amazing landscape described above encompasses many tiger reserves and hill resorts. The reserves are home to the tiger and many species of mammals, insects, reptiles, and birds. 

The reserves are wild holiday hotspots where tiger safari and birding trips are organized. All the holiday destinations are picturesque, and home to some spectacular panoramic spectacles.  Tourism is well organized in these remote destinations, and there is a rush during the holidays and in the winter season. Unlike overcrowded hill resorts, tiger reserves are protected by limiting human entry and the safari is an experience in isolation since the jeeps rarely club together.  Sooner or later the authorities will have to curb movement in the hill resorts as well. 

Places of Interest

• Nauradehi Wildlife Sanctuary 
• Panna Tiger Reserve
• Bandhavgarh National Park
• Pench National Park
• Kanha Tiger Reserve 
• Satpura Tiger Reserve 
• Pachmarhi Hill Resort
• Amarkantak Hill Resort 
• Sanjay Dubri National Park 

Prior booking is advised for holiday making in these destinations. Tiger safari is organized only for permit holders. Permits are issued by MP State Government on MPOnline Portal. One must visit the hill resorts in summers but never during the holiday period, and thus, prevent stress on the infrastructure and the environment as well. Unfortunately, the hill resorts in Madhya Pradesh experience a greater rush during the weekends and the winter holidays. 

Some family safe properties are :  

• Jabalpur/Nauradehi - Krisha Hotel & Culchuri (MPTDC) Jabalpur
• Pachmarhi - (MPTDC Hotels)
• Pench -Mowgli's Den, Jungle Home Pench & Tathastu Resort
• Satpura - Forsyth's Lodge & Denwa Backwater Resort 
• Bandhavgarh - Tigers Den 
• Kanha - Courtyard House
• Sanjay Dubri - Sandbeach Resort & MPTDC 

The destinations are approachable from Jabalpur Airport in Madhya Pradesh. Pench National Park is closest to Nagpur Aiport in Maharashtra.  

Read More: Central Indian Highlands

A Trip to Tiger Heaven called Bandhavgarh

Drive from Jabalpur

Driving through the wonderful Jabalpur-Shahpura highway is a picturesque treat to the eyes and the soul. Tree-lined and with not much traffic you get a holiday feel while driving. Yes, a holiday mood sets the mind right, and brings joy and peace, and so does this ride on a smooth road.  The Jabalpur-Shahpura Highway (70km) leads to Ghagua Fossil Park, a land containing fossils dating back 60 million years. The fossils are plant-based and in a perfect state of preservation, a short halt is good for freshening up, and for a visit to the museum and exploring the fossils. 

All through the drive, green fields, rustic hamlets, and tabletop mountains enhance your pleasure. In many places, the tree-lined forests are reminders of days whence the whole area was densely forested. Nevertheless, it is one of the best ways of reaching Bandhavgarh National Park situated in Madhya Pradesh. 

Leopard at Bandhavgarh

Shahpura to Umaria 

The drive from Shahpura to Umaria is palpable, a space without much urbanity in the picture. The isolated villages surrounded by green fields with ubiquitous pole fences full of cattle, and a makeshift cattle yard in most of the larger houses take you back to an earlier period when the time stood still as the urbanity had not yet made inroads. A bit paradoxical to call the drive into the interiors frozen in time nevertheless the indolent lifestyle cannot be experienced in the busy urbanity of the country.

Except for the villages and small townships, the rest of the 82 km drive is through the forests. The drive literally delivers a picture of what awaits upon reaching the holiday destination.  The townships offer a hint of time changing albeit at a snail’s pace. Normally dusty, with clusters of ill-designed and ill-planned antiquated thatched or tiled roof houses that smack of urbanity slowly making inroads, they still appear to be out of sync with modern agglomerations in India. 

Bandhavgarh

You can make a refreshing stop at a small but quaint MPTDC Resorts before Shahpura. It serves fresh snacks like idli, poha, and sandwiches along with hot chai or coffee. My bet was on sizzling hot pakoras served with chutney after eons of wait. If you are not hungry buy a packet of chips or peanuts and a cola to while away the time. The mountain landscape and a large man-made reservoir capped by a broad vista of tall trees on the road create picturesque settings for tired travelers.

Much cheaper options are the tea stalls at Shahpura the places sans the toilets are right on the street but some of them sell fresh hot vegetable pakoras and samosa that can make your day. Near the forest office, a diversion leads to Umaria which is at a distance of 50 km. From Umaria, the drive to Tala is 32 km most of it through the outskirts of the National Park.         

The whole drive is reminiscent of holiday tours when I was young in the seventies, the countryside was a lot greener due to dense forest patches all along the way. The complete lack of urbanity, metal roads, and quaint but primitive dwellings full of shy rustic inhabitants smacked of dismal backwardness to tourists in small cars that were popular in those days. The vehicles available with the taxi services in those days were Fiat and the rugged Ambassadors. In spite of the shock absorbers, the automobiles skidded and rebounded mercilessly on the unkempt metal pathways breaking every bone in the body. The noise inside the cars was of a terrifying decibel, and it corresponded with the jumps and bumps that we frequently encountered. The drive-by any means in sedans and luxury cars also used as taxis are much more enjoyable these days.    

Some modern amenities like cold beverages, basic medicines, and FMCG products are available in the roadside villages nowadays. The navigation through these townships is usually on a single narrow metal road. One has to be cautious driving through cow-littered roads and clusters of shops and houses. One element that I strive to see is the gaudy yellow stripped statues of tigers usually made of clay near the roadsides. Indians venerate all life forms, and the big cat holds a significant place in the Hindu pantheon. Ascribed the role of a vehicle for the Goddess, the idols refer to a period whence the tigers were everywhere in India. The figures are a sad reminder of what we practice alongside the preaching.

As you cross over the hamlets, the absence of cow dung and trash is a visible relief after a suffocating intersection. Before you reach Umaria, a jungle road leads to an ancient temple chiseled out of igneous rock which I have visited once. Ensconced in an enchanting grove surrounded by forests the temple is a pretty sight. It dates back to the 10th Century built perhaps by the Culchuris, the same ruling dynasty that built the Khajuraho Temples.           

After a short visit, you drive on to reach the Umaria Town, HQ of Umaria District in Madhya Pradesh. The Bandhavgarh FD Office is situated in this town. Preferred for consumer purchases, the town is cluttered and crowded at most junctions, it is a big disappointment for holidaymakers but then you get some modern consumables here. Make necessary purchases at Umaria before embarking to Tala township on the outskirts of Bandhavgarh National Park.  Use ATM or banking facilities if required. Umaria is a railhead and those who travel by rail alight here. The town is well connected by busses that ply on the road network and by the trains. Taxi services for long-distance travel are also available here. 

Thankfully, a side road with less traffic leads to the Tala - Manpur Road. Tala is a micro township situated at the doorstep of the tiger reserve. The 32 km drive is pleasant green and as usual, comprises humanity and fields.  The forests become apparent from Dhamokhar Range (11km) which is now included in the buffer zone for safari. Successful conservation measures have created a corridor for big cats of Bandhavgarh, and sighting does take place here. So drive slowly from here onwards since your safari has begun. Keep an eye on the roadside forests to sight a tiger or a sambar deer. After the local extinction, 50 Gaur have been relocated here and they can now be seen at Bhadrashila a small reservoir again. These massive beasts although gentle can be ferocious when disturbed so drive past if you come across them. 

From here onwards you get a glimpse of the steep cliffs and tabletop mountains that are a characteristic feature of this wild heaven. The drive turns into an exotic experience with an aura of grandeur cast by the cliffs. There are 32 steep cliffs that are spread across the reserve. They create an impression of magnificence as you drive through them during the excursions in the core. 

As you drive on towards the township, on the right is the MP Forest Rest House - the only accommodation years back whence tourism was at a nascent stage. It is reserved for officials and VIP Guests now. A little ahead, the township comprising of shops, and cluttered dwellings greet you. Old isolated huts suffocatingly squeezed now in between more stylish shops, and small restaurants selling various goods, You will overtake the Maharani Kothi, the Royal dwelling of erstwhile HH Queen of Rewa Estate. Part of the property has been converted to a resort and is much visited. 

The Tala Road comprises art shops, offices, a few budget guest houses, and a café besides small-time joints that sell chai and samosa. One of them was my favorite for the morning breakfast, they serve hot samosa and steaming strong cuppa chai.  During the stay, you can visit the Malaya Handicraft shop and café run by a lady from Ahmedabad -  Neelam Varma. The exhibit houses many traditional arts and crafts pieces made from all over India. This is a colorful collection of crafts that is priced reasonably and can be carried back home as a memoir or as a gift. Neelam also manages a small cafe that serves breakfast on a prior order.  

Tala Gate is the entrance to the Tala Zone of the park for excursions. If you have not booked a safari permit for Bandhavgarh then you book it here. Twenty percent of the park's core area is reserved for tourism. Tourism is also organized in the buffer. Each tourism zone has a separate entrance.     

Most of the hotels and resorts are situated near the Tala township while some are placed further in different locations. It is advisable to book the safari permits and the hotel accommodations much in advance. 

Jeep Safari

Bandhavgarh resorts and hotels offer various packages for a stay that range from budget to super luxurious. The best is to visit websites on the net and discover one that suits your style and the pocket.

Some of the accommodations here are a treat and can make your holiday a big success but please do not expect low prices since managing properties and serving food in remote locations requires a lot of resources. Choose a place with classic traditional interiors and exteriors away from Tala to experience local surroundings and architecture these properties nevertheless are equipped with all modern amenities and some offer great service.

If you wish to stay near Tala the Tiger Den is best. I love to stay at this resort for the great service and food. It is well structured with a manicured garden hence the outside noise does not make inroads. 

For tiger safari, an extended stay of a week or more is recommended for wildlife enthusiasts, professional photographers, and filmmakers.  Holidaymakers usually stay for 2 or 3 days. 

Jabalpur Airport and Railway Station are well connected with Mumbai, Kolkatta, Bangalore, Chennai, Hyderabad, and some other destinations. The drive to Bandhavgarh is four hours via Shahpura-Umaria Highway.  

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Uday is a blogger and offers Seo + Content For Digital Marketing Services. 

He teaches digital marketing (SEO) in Jabalpur.

He freelances as a naturalist/birder at Kanha National Park. He loves to write about travel. 

He can be contacted at: 

pateluday90@hotmail.com

09755089323                 

  

Bandhavgarh: Down The Memory Lane on The Mountain Top

Kuttappan, Nair, Vithal, Shukla, and Thakur all names come alive when reminiscence strikes. On my first visit to Bandhavgarh National Park and a Tiger Reserve, I was hooked. "This is it!"I said to myself. Since then an nth number of visits have followed, and continue till this day. The characters named here were associates that turned the dream safaris into a reality in the tiger land.   

Whence you get the first glimpse of the mountains driving on the road to Tala from Umaria you feel like paradise is right here. It is!

Bandhavgarh is more than a tiger reserve, it is a hill resort and cradle of an ancient tribal civilization. The numerous telltale signs of ancient India, forts, caves shelters, idols, and temples all spring a surprise as you journey into the wilderness overgrown with herbs and shrubs, tall trees, and grass. 

Nevertheless, a perfect ecosystem, the mountain rivers add to the sheen and glamour of this panoramic wilderness in remote India. The drive in the undulating terrain created by geological upheaval from the day the Earth was born has created an amazing tapestry that mesmerizes at very first sight. The inaccessible heights remain as they were since the time of creation chiseled to perfection - the shapes and size - by indomitable forces of nature.   

Romance is instant, the hustle and bustle of a big town are left behind once you reach the park confines and absolute calm prevails in this amazing wilderness home of enchanting animals and birds. 

Reclining Vishnu

Whence you visit the structures in the park especially Shesh Shaiyya time comes to an absolute halt. The only living element besides you is the cool mountain breeze that brushes past you gently. The picturesque spot is a visit to witness esoteric emblems that have been seamlessly inserted into the surroundings such as to create oneness with nature. Modern architecture fails in this respect.  The grove is a blessing for the parched with aching limbs, and I lie down on the parapet of the encircling wall and fall in deep reverie. 

What do you do whence you come across the esoteric? 

You simply imbibe in absolute silence to enable your sensory apparatus to grasp and digest. Almost fairy tale atmosphere prevails at Sesh Shaiyya, the resting place of Lord Vishnu where he sleeps as a twenty feet reclining idol carved out of igneous rocks. Lying listlessly, the structure crowned with Sesh Nag (Cobra) is frozen in time awaiting resurrection perhaps. Nevertheless, fed by the mountain river Charanganga the magical lair comprises an algae-layered pond and fern-covered rocks on the mountainside. Lichens, fungi, and algae create a colorful mosaic in the surroundings like an artistic creation. The patterns on the rocks and the idol placed amidst the tropical greenery simply spellbind. The place dwells in an environment of absolute tranquility and peace. 

The only buzz of activity is the humming of the birds and bees and sometimes an occasional blood-curdling roar of the tiger. Then silence prevails...you can imagine the hoofs of horses as soldiers climb the tortuous ascent on the way to the fort at the top of the mountain. The cool ambiance of the place and water all around provided succor to tired soldiers returning from internecine wars. 

When you climb the fort, the World fades into a distance and everything appears alien till you reach the idol at the precarious edge of the mountain. The Idol looms large on the edge of the mountain weathering the winds. One look and then you realize that the World is real and ruled by celestial entities. Imagine!    

All alone, amidst the tall grass and azure blue sky above, the pathway seems to be the road to Nirvana. Be careful, tigers and leopards lurk around the bushes. My nerves rattle, and my mind is in delusion, but I keep pumping up ahead in the rising heat. I am searching for my photographer friend. And there she is a lady from the distant land of Germany.

The fort is in shambles with broken walls as evidence but the large reservoirs created more than 2000 years back still survive. So does the temple dedicated to Ram, Janki, and Laxman. The place is littered with broken structures...they are nevertheless captivating religious artifacts...Hinduism is a colorful religion and so are the paraphernalia and the rituals associated with the practice. It is all evident here at the top of Bandhavgarh Mountain on the premises of the ancient fort.

A gift to brother Laxman by Lord Ram an incarnation of Lord Vishnu, the fort is aptly named as such (Bandhav = brother, Garh = Fort). A fort for brother Laxman and true to the heavenly stature in essence the fort is very much alive. A pujari (Hindu Priest) walks for eleven kilometers through the absolute wilderness to pray in the land of the tiger. Stoic, unruffled by the big cats, snakes, and predators he has been conducting prayers ever since the erstwhile Maharajah of Rewa inducted him into the holy service. 

Zoomorphic idols of Lord Vishnu in various animal avatars are the object of extreme intrigue for the uninitiated and are not familiar with Hinduism's existential philosophy. The vast expanse of the place makes you feel tiny like a spec in the Universe. An eagle flying overhead its call ricocheting across steep cliffs creates a picture of heaven as we climb down the mountain.

*Note the fort is out of bounds now but you can drive up to reclining Vishnu. You will need a safari permit for Tala Range. Bandhavgarh is accessible by four hours drive from Jabalpur Airport in Central India or the State of Madhya Pradesh.                               

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Uday is a blogger and offers Seo + Content For Digital Marketing Services. 

He teaches digital marketing (SEO) in Jabalpur.

He freelances as a naturalist/birder at Kanha National Park. He loves to write on travel. 

He can be contacted at: 

pateluday90@hotmail.com

09755089323                 

Watching Tiger in a Romantic Getaway

I could barely believe my eyes, the paw marks were large enough to confirm the sighting. Just before my curiosity drew me to the spot where I was watching birds, a few men had looked down and then passed nonchalantly ahead. They were on a morning walk and from their nonchalance I could make out that the paw marks were a regular occurrence.

Doopgarh Pachmarhi 

I was not in a tiger land, I was at the edge of Pachmarhi Township buzzing with tourism activity. It was early in the morning, I was on a trip with my clients whence I met Puneet the ambitious owner of a busy resort named Golf View.   He became interested in hiring me as a bird guide for his beautiful hotel in Pachmarhi aptly named due to its proximity to a golf course in Pachmarhi Township.  

Tiger Pug Marks

The trip was supposed to test my birding skills, and we were on foot. This was against the advice Puneet had stressed upon. In the rugged landscape of steep jagged cliffs draped with tropical greenery and the serene ambiance of Pachmarhi my favorite hill resort in Central India, I decided not to be on a noisy vehicle. The town was sleeping as we left on foot with Puneet's jeep on the toe.  

"Birds shy off the jeeps, and this is no way to spot avian," I said. " I am ready for a long haul". The resort owner said nothing. He ordered his jeep to follow us at a distance.     

Pandav Caves

Pachmarhi First Sight & Food

The spirited terrain in the township is uniform, but the sudden eruption of cliffs after a short distance can be jarring at the first sight for the uninitiated, but nevertheless, the panoramic grandeur soothes the surprised nerves. Outside the town limits, the activities come to a stop (the visit was in the off-season) and the World comes to a standstill as if frozen back in time.  At that time, the noisy tea stalls were in slumber about to wake up for their lazy customers. Pachmarhi is not for people who need a bite at the first stroke of dawn. Luckily, I had a sumptuous breakfast at Golf View.

Near the township, visitors have varied options for meals mostly vegetarian but nevertheless delicious. The hill station incites deep hunger in the prevailing salubrious environment, and local street food is good enough. For upscale tourists, restaurants in luxury hotels are beckoning but few do venture out to try the local stuff.     

Pachmarhi Hills Big & Small  

Pachmarhi accords a feeling of an esoteric charm whence you are alone, and the geological formations mesmerize at one fleeting glance. Impressive by all means, the panoramic spread at steep heights cannot be encountered anywhere. You have to see to believe. The striking features of the larger hills are the dense green clothing of trees and bushes, the tapered pinnacles, and the sloping contours. In between, the steep bare cliffs stand out like silent sentinels warning intruders not to dare.    

The streams in the glens are most enchanting when they glisten as sunlight fall on them. The twinkling stars erupt in the daytime as the rivers silently snake through steep cliffs and dense canopies.  The natural formations are striking and pleasing and not only amazing. They accord a true holiday feel in the wilderness.   

Being a wildlife sanctuary and now part of Satpura Tiger Reserve, the holiday resort is a haven for wildlife enthusiasts as well as holidaymakers on sprees. The place is popular as a romantic getaway with cold winters and not-so-hot summers. Couples arrive here in large numbers to initiate and get familiar with conjugal life in the cool, salubrious confines of the resort with plenty of spots for complete isolation. 

You can see the newlyweds most often at the multichambered Pandav Caves situated within the township amidst a clutter of tea stalls, shops, and DIY car parking.  Yes, taxis and cars are parked just anywhere in this hill resort on a first come first stop basis. Holding hands, they are quite conspicuous but ignored by the crows busy with sightseeing and enjoying their brunch.  

Some of the old hotels and bungalows date back to the British Raj in India and stir reminiscence of the era of Raj a turbid rule nonetheless full of romantic grandeur created by the Sahibs.  The Sahibs loved this destination, the summer capital of Madhya Pradesh. The rest house at Dhoopgarh was to witness revelries unprecedented during the Raj powered by scotch, and the wood-fired Indian food that khansamahs created in the dingy set-aside kitchen. Standing in front of the vacant rest-house, I could realize how ordinary nonelites could be. Unlike in the case of Sahibs, a visit to this hill station is a privilege we can ill afford.   

Rest House

Off-Season Visit

Crowds wash off the fun of being in an enchanting place hence off-season visits are rewarding.  After a demanding and lackluster trip to Satpura Tiger Reserve, Pachmarhi was a whiff of fresh air. On the very first day, I heard Malabar Blue Whistling Thrush, the refreshing long-drawn sonorous song is unforgettable. Nothing beats it, even a robust breakfast with a delectable menu. 

This holiday destination is a paradise for the ornithologists who are constantly exploring the remote place for that one vagrant that could crown their checklist. 

A Predator So Close & Sloth Bears

We stopped for a while, the big cat paw prints were quite fresh but I believed it had gone past from the spot. A couple of days back it had been seen by many near the very spot. It was an aging cat pushed off by a rival perhaps. 

Golf View Hotel

Stunned by a predator so close, I hesitantly decided to continue the walk. But it was short-lived. The next warning was that of the sloth bear, which I was told can surprise you in the bush. They can deliver nasty scars when alarmed. On the walk, we encountered bushland with twisting walkways in between, and anywhere the slothy creature could be lurking. On full alert, I know how unpredictable the sloth bear could be. Unlike the tiger, they are known to attack without any reason or threat perception. They have mauled people to death in the past, and to get away with scars is worse for they disfigure and maim for life.  Thankfully, this was a rare occurrence and the calm on my face was an assurance for Puneet. We nevertheless were onboard whence we came to dense thickets that allowed no transparency.            

We continued on the jeep. Panoramic spread of hills enshrouded in green, and the jagged bare outcrops and precipices are everywhere but each with a differing countenance. You can never tire out believe me.  

Landscape STR

Dhoopgarh

Mesmerized to the hilt, we continued towards Dhoopgarh which literary means a fort draped in the sunshine. Yes, this is the highest spot in Central India. The drive goes through nerve-wracking steep and acutely twisting curves and you need to hold yourself calm. The deep ravines support tropical herbs and shrubs nourished by gentle sunlight that enters the inaccessible valleys, and minuscule crevices with flowing water, and are protected by the cool shady confines. Some of the exotic herbs found here have medicinal properties yet are undiscovered. Botanists revel in exploring these inaccessible dangerously steep places in the hill resort.

Pachmarhi Forests

Grandeur in Simplicity & The Bar 

At the top of the hill sits a rest house lost in the bygone era. This was the place for revelries during the Raj. Now visited mostly out of curiosity by love birds and the ubiquitous tourists, it is a pointer to British architecture in India. The structure that the British built exhibited grandeur in simplicity, they are enchanting without fail. and blessed with a quiet ambiance difficult to find in modern architecture. No esoteric carvings no domes. 

As we roll down the hill memories of past visits surface in the bewildering labyrinth of my mind. The town once a place steeped in serenity was busy catering to crowds of rancorous tourists, and the single roads were full of cars and smoke. Most old hotels face stiff competition from new arrivals but retain their esoteric charm.  I used to love visiting the bar at Old Block in the evenings. It is the solitude that appeals the most to town people. Conversation in hush-hush tones amid already prevailing silence, dark draped night impact the yellow lightning in upscale venues that soothe. I was very fond of this bar and spent a few moments in peace here during my past visits.    

Thanks to the notification, the town is unable to expand. Mercy! Out beyond the town limits, there are plenty of geological formations and wilderness full of birds and wild animals. The big mammals are elusive but the natural formations are not at all disappointing.  

We did not see the tiger but nevertheless, it was memories springing back of days whence I used to visit with my extended family members.  

Pachmarhi Hill Resort is a five hours drive from Jabalpur Airport, and a little less distant from Bhopal Airport the Capital City of Madhya Pradesh. Reserve your accommodation in advance and schedule the visit in summer with a bit less of a crowd. Do not worry summers are tolerable here. 

A number of MPTDC hotels with good enough locations and modern amenities are the best accommodations to seek. But book well in advance. 

Read Pristine Pachmarhi

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Uday is a blogger and offers Seo + Content For Digital Marketing Services. 

He teaches digital marketing (SEO) in Jabalpur.

He freelances as a naturalist/birder at Kanha National Park. He loves to write on travel. 

He can be contacted at: 

pateluday90@hotmail.com

09755089323

Author

Tourism Development: Lesser Known Destinations in Madhya Pradesh

 Madhya Pradesh Profile

Being the second largest State of India, Madhya Pradesh or MP is covered to large extant by forests with good crown cover and destinations that are ideal for ecotourism. The state is culturally rich with iconic monuments created by erstwhile ruling dynasties. The indigenous tribal culture dominates the hinterlands and is equally robust and colorful with impactful cultural ethos and some spectacular architecture and artisanal industry.

Kundawara Forest

MP is well known as a tiger state thanks to a large number of protected areas notified as National Parks, Tiger Reserves and WLS. With scenic locales and impressive wildlife comprising of mega fauna and flora,  birds, reptiles and butterflies, the State promises tremendous ecotourism potential. It is not only the major tiger reserves that attract tourists but hill resorts and places with rich architecture and lifestyle do as well. The State is rich in geographical features with diverse terrain in which major rivers like Narmada, Son, Chambal as vital life support systems enriching societies and culture as they flow towards their final immersion.      

MP is diverse, politically stable, safe, and has sound infrastructure in terms of roads and highways. Tourism is being conducted since decades and has brought International fame with overseas tourists throbbing year on year in ever growing numbers. However the tourism potential is much more than is evident, with greater reach and development in lesser known destinations it will lead to an economic bounty in terms of revenue, increase in employment with emphasis on empowering local communities and thus culminating in better conservation and preservation of our heritage wealth.

Rani Durgavati Wildlife Sanctuary 

Lesser Known Destinations in Central India & Development

Just as the title portrays unknown, undiscovered destinations with tourism potential abound in the State. With focus on few major destinations the potential is not being properly utilized. In order to develop and attract tourism an innovative, broadminded and committed approach is a prerequisite.    

Developing tourism in lesser known destination calls for greater vision and effort aided by planning and strategic actions in a calibrated manner keeping potential, size and remote distances in mind. 

Some Points to be Noted Are:

       A) Study & Highlighting  

 

1)      Highlighting Potential Destinations

2)      Making A Feasibility Study

3)      Listing in Preferential Order

4)      Core Focusing of Key Features

5)      Initiating Development & Funding 

B) Preferred Destinations – Action

6)      Development of Road Infrastructure

7)      Re-engineering Assets Present For Utilization

8)      Enhancing Destination Potential

a)      Conservation Initiatives

b)      Institutional Empowerment

c)      Training of Local Work Force

 

9)      Bolstering Safety Measures

10)  Establishing Additional Recreation Venues

a)      Ecotourism/ Heritage Museums and Interpretation Centers

b)      Canteens

c)      Encouraging Heritage Shopping

d)     Encouraging Tribal/Local Performers

e)      Encouraging Local Artisans

f)       Inclusion of Nearby Interesting Spots   

11)  Establishing Hospitality Infrastructure     

a)      Encouraging Hotels & Resorts

b)      Encouraging Home Stays

c)      Facilitating Small Restaurants/Dhabas

d)     Encouraging Travel Service Providers

e)      Enhancing  Financial Facilities

f)       Creation of Viable Land Banks

g)      Single Window Clearance

h)      Adequate Security Measures

 

12)  Propaganda on Global/National Scale

 

Tourism Development A Holistic & Non Conventional Approach

Encouraging Private Participation

India as a country has instituted tighter administrative controls over all its heritage wealth and to some extent potential destinations. Though stringent rules and regulations are a must in case of sensitive places like the conservation units, the same approach is followed in case of imperishable heritage wealth and ecotourism centers sans indicator species.

The tighter institutional control has to be done away with in places with imperishable heritage wealth and ecotourism centers in non protected areas. And this calls for private participation in order to increase innovative approach, funding and supervision.

Cave Paintings 

 

Benefits of Participatory Enterprise Model

Inviting Private Enterprises & Business Houses

 

A participatory enterprise economic model (PEEM) will result in better infrastructure development, innovative/diverse tourism practices, investment in and development of public properties facing neglect for better utilization and preservation.

Initiation of private participation will lead to greater exploration and enhancement all venues of recreation and experiences for visitors leading a holistic approach to nature/cultural tourism.

PEEM will lead to availability of greater funds and managerial capabilities due to induction of experience and skills through diverse staffing.

Inherent Benefits 

In case of MP distant spread of niche tourism will lead to reduction in crowd pressure on popular tiger reserves and hill resorts. Greater exploration efforts will lead to discovery of unknown heritage wealth for better preservation and conservation initiatives.

The benefits will roll down to local communities as well which is essential for a poverty ridden country and states.  Revenue generation is vital for the State Economy. And a proactive broadminded approach towards tourism will lead to crucial revenue generation.    

Amarkantak

Some of the Potential Destinations Under Scope

 

1)      Amarkantak  Biosphere Reserve

 

Origin of Narmada & Son

Spiritual Importance

Includes Achankamar Tiger Reserve

Amarkantak Hill Resorts 

 

Potentia:l Wildlife Tourism & Walking Holidays

 

2) Nauradehi Wildlife Sanctuary 

   

Tiger Translocation

Slated for Cheetah Translocation

Easy Access From Jabalpur Airport/ Sagar Town

 

Potential: Wildlife Tourism

 

3) Rehta Pani Tiger Reserve

 

Bhimbetika Cave Paintings

Easy Access Bhopal (Capital)

Potential: Wildlife Tourism    

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Uday is a blogger and offers Seo + Content For Digital Marketing Services. 

He teaches digital marketing (SEO) in Jabalpur.

He freelances as a naturalist/birder at Kanha National Park

He can be contacted at: 

pateluday90@hotmail.com

09755089323

Author