Wednesday, March 18, 2020

Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve a Veritable Paradise

Quaint and sublime, the forests of Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve are a veritable paradise on Earth. Hidden deep inside in remote access of Central India - the park is an amazing biodiversity hub.

Known more for its tigers, one can experience India's enchanting wilderness at best here. Every year thousands of overseas and local visitors arrive here for a tiger safari.


The scattered ruins enhance the esoteric charm of Bandhavgarh suggesting history that dates back 2000 years. A game round takes you way back into a turbulent past of Maharajahs amidst teeming wildlife.

The diverse flora changes landscapes with startling fervor as you move into the bush country, dense forests, and rolling grasslands. The marshy landscape accord immense beauty and it is here that you can see the tiger in the wild.



Known for Sal (Shorea robusta) trees and the moist deciduous types abound along with mixed canopy. Though the reserve encompasses a large area of about eleven hundred km the tourism zone is restricted to four hundred plus km. This is a big enough window to peek into the magnificent wilderness.



Deer, bison, leopard, sloth bear, and wild dogs share the kingdom of magnificent tigers. Birds abound and are a treat to watch as they emerge from the dense canopy in resplendent attire. Bandhavgarh is a bird-watching hot spot in India sadly neglected and suppressed by the enigma of big cats. More than two hundred species can be sighted albeit in different seasons. Migrants arrive in winter and depart before the summer peaks.

The visitor profile changes with the seasons, and nature lovers and holidaymakers arrive in the winter and festive seasons. Wildlife photographers prefer extensive sunlight in the summer months despite the heat. The park is busy throughout but holidays and weekends should be avoided.



The fort is in ruins now, and out of bounds for the visitors but one must drive up to Sesh Shaiyya on the way. This is an enigmatic statue of Lord Visnu carved out of a twenty feet long igneous rock. The ensemble or ruins consisting of temples, stables, caves, and zoo-morphic idols enchant the visitors on a jeep safari.

The reserve is a National Park and a conservation unit, declared a protected area for saving the tiger from the brink of extinction. The efforts have been successful despite many hurdles. You can see the transformation yourself on safaris. Tigers and other mammals are sighted with a greater degree of frequency.

A set of rules apply for tourists which one must follow. A limited number of jeeps are allowed to enter the tourist zones every day. Hence you must book the entry in advance.

Located in the Umaria District of Madhya Pradesh, the connectivity for easy access is excellent. The nearest airport and rail hub is Jabalpur City. The drive from Jabalpur is about 175 km.

At this amazing Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve, luxury hotels abound for accommodation. The tourism infrastructure is proper and a good degree of comfort prevails making the destination tourist-friendly. If you are planning a holiday in India do experience the exotic wilderness at its best
here.

Friday, July 5, 2019

Bandhavgarh Hidden Jewel of Central India

The peaks rise startlingly from the horizon as you drive towards Tala Village, an astounding view...and more has to come. Bandhavgarh is a land of surprises and a charismatic destination. An eerie feel hangs around, and chilly air of expectation runs down your spine, and your mind is in a state of fantasy. This is tiger land, India's primal forest home to many of these magnificent animals. 

Tiger
Encapsulating diverse habitats and amazing biodiversity the tiger reserve is also a National Park.  It is managed under the aegis of Project Tiger a GOI initiative. Situated in the remote confines of Central India or the State of Madhya Pradesh the tiger land keeps its promise. Expect a safari exciting and soul-stirring as never before experienced in the hinterlands of the long-stretching Vindhyan Mountain Ranges.  

Bandhavgarh Meadow

The reserve comprises marshy grasslands, dense Sal and mixed forests, bamboo slopes, and rivers that twist and turn agonizingly all over this ecosystem eventually draining out of the park into chaotic human civilizations.  

Jeep Safari
The salient feature of this paradise is the steep cliffs covered with dense canopy scarred with scarps and protruding spurs at many places. In between the cliffs, the safari vehicles move steeply uphill and then slide tortuously downhill in between the deep glens. The drive is strenuous with bumps and jerks, and negotiating sharp bends on the incline and slippery slopes tests the driver's skill no end.  

All this makes the safari exciting especially whence you climb up the hill at literally an obtuse angle. A chance meeting with a tiger and other exciting animals like the leopard, gaur, sloth bear, and wild dog is always on cards to keep the adrenalin pumping and the heart missing a few beats.  

Bandhavgarh Mountain

From the top of the mountains, the panoramic grandeur unfolds. The landscape changes correspondingly as the angle of view changes and your gaze is mesmerized. The tree tops, marshy grasslands, and surrounding cliffs with rivulets and pathways snaking in between are a sight to wonder at from the dizzy heights.       

A tiger safari at Bandhavgarh is truly stupefying and thrilling on an open jeep. The sightings of tigers and other megafauna are very high in this little paradise and tourists flock around the open season to film and photograph these amazing creatures, some of which are endangered and nearly on the verge of extinction. 

Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve

Whence you enter the park from the Tala Gate across the meadows the steep cliff encapsulating the fort wall on the ascent and the Ram Janki Temple accords an exotic view. The distance plays around with dimensions and the ancient temple appears as a tiny speck.  

In midst of pristine forests, the telltale signs of human architecture is an esoteric experience. The stone wall stretches long for more than a mile and was used to prevent intrusion into the Gond Fort at the height of 800 MSL. This hill is named after the reserve and is the tallest.  

In the Tala Zone at Sesh Shaiyya or reclining Vishnu time stands absolutely still. After an unnerving climb up the hill, the twenty feet idol lying adjacent to an ancient pool shaded by a grove is a mesmerizing sight. The grove shelters the pool and the idol trickles like a misty curtain flowing down the walls covered with ferns and shrubs. The curtain of tiny falls literally sliding down towards the idol through eroded walls covered with a slippery carpet of moss and lichens extols the creativity of ancient tribes it enhances the age of the edifice which could be around two thousand years ago. The situation is a fairy tale setting, and cool brisk air from the grove invites slumber even in the torturous heat of the summer.   



Silence and serenity prevail transporting you back in time, a moment whence a troupe of soldiers came to rest here before climbing up to the fort. The intruding roar of the tiger awakens you from a fantasy daydream and fetches you back into the reality of the contemporary. 


The climb up to the fort passes through numerous horse shelters, courtrooms, and caves entrenched in the mountain wall. The grand stone arch after a strenuous climb is welcoming, from here you enter the fort complex. The fort itself is in ruins but the zoomorphic idols of Lord Vishnu are spectacular and well-preserved. So are the huge reservoirs meant to sustain the large entourage of soldiers and royal households.    

Langur Monkey
The large vacant spaces also contain numerous ancient architects in form of run-down structures. On one end as you climb up, the temple manned by old priests sits isolated but accords a magnificent view of the whole reserve.  

The whole park is an ecosystem that supports more than fifty tigers and they can be seen during the safari in the tourism zones. Herds of Gaur or bison and chital can be seen in the company of langur monkeys, sambar, and the peacock in the grasslands. 

Hindu Priest
The leopard is elusive but is seen often along with the sloth bear and the wild dog. Barking deer and saunders of wild boar are often encountered near the waterholes. In open areas herds of Nilgai antelope can be seen peacefully grazing in the grasslands. 

Tiger safaris are organized during the day and in the evening. Tourists can also book full-day safaris especially wildlife photographers.  

The best way to reach Bandhavgarh tiger park is via Jabalpur Airport which is a four hours drive, and also from Kanha Nationa Park which is a more five hour's drive. Overseas visitors should book the holiday through the tour operators and opt for the jungle plan which is all-inclusive.  

Monday, January 28, 2019

Planning A Tiger Safari at Ranthambhore

Wildlife Tour Planning Ranthambore!

Before you do get some facts right. The safaris are organized in Ranthambore with the sole aim of giving you a wildlife experience. Wildlife experience or interpretation is part of your holiday at the tiger reserve in Rajasthan in India. During most of the excursions, tourists search for the tiger. This is the main focus of the holiday for most of the visitors except the birders who seek a more holistic experience. The birdlife is simply fantastic!

Tiger
Little attention is paid by others to the common animals in an ecosystem that has so much to offer. Hence when you visit the destination enjoy the sights and sounds of all the creatures and not only the big cats. During the game rounds, you can see the leopard, sloth bear, Nilgai antelope, sambar and spotted deer, hyena, jackal, wild boar, and langur monkeys.  



The destination has a number of ancient historical monuments some of which can be visited. The picturesque lakes create a magical splendor and offer thrilling sights of animals and the tigers that hunt there.    


The park organizes two safaris one in the early morning and another around three in the afternoon. These have to be booked in advance. The park is divided into various tourism zones which have to be selected during the booking. Remember to book the zones in the core area which offer the best sightings of wild animals.

The permits are charged and photo identification is required to be mentioned whence booking. During the entry, the photo identity has to be presented by each and every one. The options you get is a visit on an open jeep or a canter. The former is more private but the latter is cheaper and the ride has to be shared with other tourists.  Anyway book in advance is my advice! The option for current booking is also available at the Gate if entry is not fully booked. Do you wish to take a chance? 

For a longer duration of stay, a large number of high-end, heritage, luxury, and budget resorts are available. These are situated near Sawai Madhopur township out in the buffer area. You can book them online if you wish. Choose the one that offers modern amenities and good service. Read trip reports or reviews or seek references from a friend who has already been there.


The entry is fixed as per the time set by the forest department. The exit is also fixed by the department. Jeeps are available for excursions in the park and some hotels provide naturalist services to enhance your experience. All this costs money so be prepared to spend. The rewards are worth the expense.

Resort
There is a limit for the entry vehicles in the core zones for the excursion. There is a  full day safari at Ranthambhore option available online. In this format, you enter early and exit late while you spend the whole day in the park. This is best suited for wildlife photography and filming. Book any tiger safari but do it in advance is my suggestion. In case of a rush, you will not be able to avail of an entry in the core zone.    


Carry quality binoculars and some books on wildlife. Warm clothing in winter is essential. And yes make a purchase of all essentials at Jaipur before you depart for Sawai Madhopur. The park is closed during the monsoon from July to September.  

Thursday, January 10, 2019

Pachmarhi A Pristine Holiday Retreat

Pachmarhi Resort 
As the taxi negotiates agonizing twists and turns of the rugged climb I look at the changing landscape - astounding verdant greenery. We are negotiating the Matkuli Hill Range and driving up towards the Pachmarhi Township. Nestled in the Satpura Range Pachmarhi is part of the Satpura Biosphere Reserve which encompasses Satpura National Park and Bori Wildlife Sanctuary.    
Hilly Landscape

The sharp turns and twists, and the deep glens we leave behind make me dizzy, and my innards shaky. You are conscious of a fatal slip but the driver is at ease and that is comforting. 

Pachmarhi Hillside

We stop at Denwa Darshna the mountain river which intersects the biosphere reserve.  From the dizzy precipice, the river looks like a snake wriggling through steep walls of ancient mountains. The boulder-strewn pathway gives way to fine sand-filled beaches, and the waters sparkle brightly in the sunlight. This is our first introduction to this pristine paradise. 

Unspoiled and in a perfect state of preservation, Pachmarhi was saved from the axe by its notification as a wildlife sanctuary, and being a Cantt it was saved from rapid urbanization. Unlike other holiday resorts in India, the destination is untouched, unspoiled, and charming albeit tourist pressure and township reconstruction have a telling effect in a small area, but nevertheless, it still is one of the finest retreats in India. 

Shrub
Daru Haldi Exotic Shrub a painkiller of note
The most stunning and captivating waterfall I find here is the Silver Falls. Not yet motorable, one has to trek through dense forests to reach the fall. The misty cascade created by the seven hundred feet drop to the enigmatic valley below gives rise to a silver curtain and hence the name. On the way, we come across a paleolithic cave with paintings dating back to 20000 years. The next stop is at the Fairy Pool, crystal clear and absolutely still, the pool is fed by an enchanting spring that emerges from the forest clads mountains.  Other interesting places to follow are Handi Cove, Bee Falls, Irene Pool, and Reechgarh Caves. There are more...     

Pool

Reechgarh
On one visit you realize that terrain was in a constant state of upheaval for ages with forest-clad mountains dotting all over the surroundings. Incidentally, the highest point in Madhya Pradesh is Dhoopgarh about nine km from the township. The hill rises steeply to a height of 1350 MSL. At the top of this mountain sits a quaint resthouse deserted but in a state of preservation. This was the favorite haunt of the British Sahibs during the Raj, and they used to indulge in hunting and revelries best imagined in the summer capital. The destination in the contemporary era is still the summer capital of the MP Government.  
Highest Point Dhoopgarh

Rest House At Dhoopgarh

As you climb up to Dhoopgarh, the vegetation changes giving rise to a distinct ecosystem that supports myriads of life forms, especially migratory birds. Another towering mountain is Chuaragarh with four thousand steps to negotiate if you dare to climb. Atop this mountain sits the temple of Lord Shiva which is a point of pilgrimage for devout Hindus.
View From Dhoopgarh
Milestone at Dhoopgarh
Some of the valleys are deep beyond expectation and are often visited by botanists to explore the goldmines containing rare plants and shrubs. The place contains floral species of immense medicinal value besides being ornamental.     

Pandav Caves
In a small area surrounding the township i.e. the wildlife sanctuary and Satpura Tiger Reserve, there are a number of natural occurrences like waterfalls, pools, glens, mountains, and natural caves. Overriding these iconic spots are cave formations containing Shiva idols, Bade and Chote Mahadev, Jata Shankar, and the Pandava Gufa.

Though overcrowded the township has some of the finest old bungalows stamped with exquisite British Architecture, these are in a perfect state of preservation and inhabited. Some have been turned into hotels like the Golf View Hotel in the periphery. Signs of tourism fatigue are obvious but thankfully limited only to the township.   

Golf View Hotel
The periphery being part of the biosphere is rich in wildlife and leopard sloth bears, sambar, and bison are often encountered by trekkers. An occasional tiger from the reserve finds its way here as well. Due to the varying altitude and immense floral wealth, Pachmarhi is soon to become a birding hotspot. One small trek we came across contained more than twenty five species and a fresh pawprint of a tiger.  
Tiger Paw Print Pachmarhi


There are many resorts in Pachmarhi Township, and some luxurious properties owned by MPTDC in the outskirts for accommodation. Street food joints are in plenty along with small shopping centers.

The hills station lies near Jabalpur in Madhya Pradesh. It is five hour drive from Jabalpur Airport and is also accessible from Bhopal Airport. It lies at a drive of two hours from Satpura Tiger Reserve entrance at Madai.

By Rail: Stoppage at Piparia Station ( 3 hrs from Jabalpur) and one hour drive uphill to the township.





Saturday, September 8, 2018

Destination Pench Tiger Reserve

Wildlife viewing in India is exciting with many tiger reserves and National Parks hosting the tiger and other enchanting animals. Most of the tourists arrive here to see the tiger in the wild. But let me tell there are many other enchanting animals and birds that should be the focus of the tourists as well.  
wild boar - John Matthai

Well this article refers to Pench Tiger Reserve

A long time back a vagrant child called Mowgli was lost in the Jungle probably deserted by his parents. Some say they were killed by the tiger....well anybody's guess.  The child was adopted by Akela the leader of the wolf pack in the Seoni Hills in Central India. He was introduced to the pack and soon became part of it. The story by Rudyard Kipling called "Jungle Book" narrates the antics of the wolf child and about the jungle life of Seoni Hills now called Pench Tiger Reserve. 

Bengal Tiger - Clive
Pench Tiger Reserve in Madhya Pradesh or Central India is now a popular tiger safari destination. The characters of Jungle Book come to life whence you visit the park. Mowgli the wolf child is no more but many Mowglis can be encountered in the villages near the forests. Kaa, Akela, Baloo, Sher Khan, Bandar log all can be seen on a jungle safari in the tiger reserve.   

Eagle - Clive
The pristine forests of Pench are most enchanting with awe-inspiring unspoiled landscapes. The River Pench snakes through dense jungles according to life as a support system for all the life forms. The vivid and diverse profile supports amazing habitats for innumerable flora and fauna. The impressive biodiversity has been preserved for eternity as it is a protected area with an inviolate core.   

The reserve is a biodiversity hub and a conservation unit with a focus on the big cat. Nevertheless, all life forms are conserved because of strict protection and protected area status.      

Tourism is organized by the forest department of MP and a permit can be availed for excursions or tiger safaris in the core area of the reserve. Safaris are conducted in the day and evening on jeeps as on-foot excursions are not allowed. The reserve is closed during the monsoon period from July to September but safaris in the buffer area are allowed.      
Pench Jungle Home
There are many resorts that provide luxury stay in the buffer area of Pench National Park. The closest access is from Nagpur Airport at a distance of eighty kilometers while Jabalpur Airport is at a distance of four hours. The tiger reserve is connected by five hour's drive with Kanha National Park in Central India.  

Friday, September 7, 2018

Ardhnareshwar - A Passionaate Goddess of True Love

Ardhnareshwar or half female and half male is a human representation in Indian mythology prominent figurative speech in Hinduism.  The representation is of Lord Shiva and Goddess Shakti combined into one to form Ardhnareshwar. This also refers to split half in language of romance as mentioned in the book - A Passionaate Goddess of True Love.  

Moh Lal Rai is of firm belief that her find or her true love Gaurang whom she comes across in Chennai is her split half as Shiva and Shakti were. The personification of male and female unison of two is in realty one human being with aspect of both male and female. Biological we are created as male and female but in truth it is the same biology that governs us all. The differentiation arises for the task of procreation where in minor changes facilitate two figures to give birth to a new human being for propagation of the species.   This androgynous form finds mention in Greek myths as well as in Puranic literature of India. 

Perhaps this places men and women in equal footing in the minds of misogynists those who delve in supremacy of the male form.  

In the romantic novel Poonam Uppal, the Indian Author based in India justifies Moh's affiliation with Gaurang on principles based on the Ardhnareshwar concept. This composite form of male and female split down the middle speaks if genetic compatibility and hence further justifies the inseparability of split halves as we find in the narration of A Passionate Gospel of True Love. 

Lord Shiva and Parvati are inseparable and the author describes them as the perfect couple. This made of each other couple also relates to a destined relationship and the body and mind are always in search of its other half. The unison in such cases exhibits a high degree of compatibility and harmonious existence. That is why it is said that marriages are made in heaven.    

Author Poonam Uppal 
In the romantic novel, the book writer Author Poonam Uppal mentions split halves and soul mate concept much prevalent amongst true lovers. This also delivers an esoteric twist to the romantic interlude between Moh and Guarang. The popular book writer has born and bred in India and is a devout Hindu. She is an ardent devotee of Goddess Maa Durga the consort of Shiva. She now lives in the USA with her family. 

Thursday, July 26, 2018

Khajuraho Temples - Of Treatise on Stone

Twenty-Five Temples now exist in the Temple Town Khajuraho in the State of Madhya Pradesh in India. A popular tourist destination visited from all over the Globe. 

Khajuraho Through The lens of Romantic Novel based in India

Salvation is the ultimate goal of humans especially those professing Oriental religions that originated in India.  The ultimate deliverance is through Karmic deeds that are supposed to be based on following the path of truth, sacrifice, and piety.  

Khajuraho Temples


Religiosity is central to achieving salvation and eventually escaping the frequent torturous cycle of life, death and rebirth.  

Khajuraho Carvings  

The path to salvation does not have any mandatory manifestations and it is not necessary to relinquish Worldly pleasures or satiation of our sensory apparatus. This is why treatises like Vatsyayana’s   Kama Sutra came into being and became so popular. 

Temples of Khajuraho 


In the romantic novel A Passionaate Gospel of True Love this is what Moh Lal Rai discovers.  Right at the doorsteps of the famous Khajuraho Temples Moh is surprised to see intense erotic sculptures on the outer walls.

Built by the Chandela Rajput Kings between the 9th to 11th centuries they were not a lascivious representation of the physical attributes of humans. Sexual gratification, true love, and emotional attachments were pathways to achieving a fulfilled life and for the soul to come to rest. 

Physical gratification is never tarnished in the image of ancient people as being lascivious, lewd, or lecherous.           



Perhaps this was the intent of Goddess Maa Durga through the premonition to guide Moh Lal Rai to Khajuraho Temples. She was in India to fulfill her destiny a coming together of true lovers as prophesied during the fashion show in Las Vegas in the USA.

In meeting her destined lover Gaurang a number of questions had arisen especially with the relationship as both were already tied in a conjugal bond with others. The guidance was a journey of discovery as she found out the concept of all absorbing love between true lovers or split halves. 

The treatise of Kama Sutra is not limited to the aspect of physical love it goes much deeper and is the soulful manifestation of an aspect of life that is often shunned as being sinful by the unaware. This could be termed as the higher purpose of Khajuraho Temples in connection with the Kama Sutra Treatise.   

A Passionaate Gospel of True Love is a manifestation of liberal thoughts that justifies relationships beyond the norms we have come to understand. The orthodox injunctions towards love and romance are age-old. It is this romantic saga that dares to explore the unconventional through the truth hidden in our sacred texts and treatise.           





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Friday, May 25, 2018

Ranthambhore Where Tigers Rule

Hunting Reserve of an erstwhile Maharajahs, the ruins strike awe as the jeep rolls down the rugged terrain. Ranthambore is well known for its tigers, and the ancient temples, forts, chattris, and hunting lodges are all now throttled down by forests. Decay and withering is the telltale sign of once magnificent structures exhibition of pomp and glory of the Maharajahs of Jaipur - now a bustling capital of Rajasthan.   
Tiger

The rot has not set in for the forests and wild denizens they thrive well. Tigers now occupy the biodiversity-rich region, and tourist flock to admire them. The big cats can be seen here in all their glory in the natural habitat - and who would not like to see them. 

Popular for tiger safaris the ancient ruins and splendorous lakes of the National Park are the jewels of this niche habitat of wild denizens. Not to be left behind, the tourist lodges at Ranthambore are among the finest with a rich tradition of hospitality that equals the days of the Maharajahs living in their opulent palaces and forts.       

Tiger
Besides being home to the big cats, the reserve boasts a wide array of mammals and an amazing flock of avians. Safaris are thrilling, be it on a jeep or a canter, the excitement never mitigates as you get one experience after another, a tiger on the hunt, crocodile basking, and shrill alarms of deer and the Nilgai. 

Tucked away in the chain of Aravali Hills the erstwhile hunting reserve is now the mainstay of tourism in Rajasthan. The big cats have created history after returning from near extinction. Legends (tigers) now eternal have ruled the dazzling heights of the ramparts and the lush green meadows inundated by magnificent lakes large and small.      


Resort Ranthambhore

High-End Hotel 

Luxury Hotel Ranthambore


The canopy, water bodies, grasslands, and torturous terrain create their own niche in which species survive. One of the best places to see tigers in the wild, Ranthambore is the most visited in India. Entrenched in the itinerary of the Golden Triangle many holidays are made here. 
Male Tiger 

Ancient Temple
Lake
Situated near Sawai Madhopur three hours drive from Jaipur the reserve is easy to access. The tourism infrastructure is sound with many five-star and luxury hotels for a memorable stay. Tigers abound and you can see and photograph them with ease. A few days of safaris will offer an experience that no other venue will offer in India.